Just got my Challenger that I sent back to MTH just after Christmas for loud gear noise even sent them a thumb drive with the sonud on it. Get this noe here is a loco that I paid close to $600.00 and had it two weeks because it sounded like a thrasher. After two months they sent it back just as bad if not worse because now I think some of the wheels are out of gage it doesn't want to stay on the track which I never had any problems with before.
Anyway I guess that what you get for 600.00 these days I will not send it back and have them do nothing again
one mad MTH customer
Nothing new. MTH seems to be like a lottery. Some people have luck, some don´t. But those who don´t are usually really bad off. Here is my case: Got a SP GS-4 in 2008. One marker light didn´t work. After 1 month the decoder suddenly died without any reason. Shipped the engine to MTH for repair. Waited 5 months till I got it back. Marker light still didn´t work (I´m sure they didn´t even have a look at it) and now the best: after 5 minutes of running the "repaired" engine the cab light died. Then I had enough and sold the engine with big loss of course on ebay.
Some people say MTH´s quality and service has improved a lot over the past 6 years, but I was always critical about this rumor. Your recent story proves even more once again that I´m right by not believing these rumors! It´s really sad because they produce some models that I really would LOVE to have, but my own story and all those stories from other people keep me away from trying out another MTH engine.
Hmmmmm...Seems like folks are on the MTH-bashing mission this week on the forum.
I only have "one" MTH product: 8 of the 10-car set of '40 20th Century Limited passanger cars. Couldn't be happier with them. However, I've never had to send them in for repair.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Not surprised at all. Its gotten to where there seems to be more and more horror stories about locos from multiple companies being sent back for repair, and the time line can vary from several weeks to many months. And more and more, the locos are coming back in just as bad if not worse conditiion.
I have never sent a locomotive in for repair, nor will I. I learned over the years from people who were willing to teach me, how to repair any loco I or my friends own.
But what does surprise me, is no one seems willing to learn how to do these repairs themselves anymore. My opinion of this is, too bad. Just think of the money and time you'd save by doing it yourself. Even where I have had to do an almost complete rebuild of some locos, it took less than a week and most repairs cost a couple of bucks at the most.
Carey
Keep it between the Rails
Alabama Central Homepage
Nara member #128
NMRA &SER Life member
Hey, doesn't this thread belong in the "complaints about manufacturers/vendors" forum, i.e. the forum formerly known as "where are the MR anniversary boxcars"? (I read that suggestion in another thread recently)
But what does surprise me, is no one seems willing to learn how to do these repairs themselves anymore.
No kidding... I was in an LHS last week and I overheard some guy talking about an O-gauge item he had brought in for repairs because something was wrong with the coupler. I don't remember the exact problem, but I do remember my reaction was like, "You've got to be kidding me?! You couldn't just fix that yourself?" I didn't say it out loud, of course, I just quietly paid for my HO boxcar and left... then promptly disassembled the underframe and changed out the couplers as soon as I got home
Dan Stokes
My other car is a tunnel motor
There's a Kingston Trio song in there somewhere.
Kinda like this: http://www.metrolyrics.com/mta-lyrics-kingston-trio.html
But with more of a model railroading bent.
Andre
Santa Fe all the way!If anyone paid $600 for a new loco, it is reasonable for them to expect it to perform as advertised.It is nice to have the ability to repair things, but the OP shouldn't have to. Why some model railroaders find it necessary to imply that if the OP would know this or that, everything would be OK. You just come off sounding arrogant IMHO.
Oh, I don't know about that. Back around 1950, a Varney Super Pacific cost an inflation adjusted $555.81 and that was a kit without a tender. Buying the tender would bring the price up close to $600. Of course, you had to put the thing together yourself (not to mention painting and decalling) and there was no guarantee the thing would run at all.
As a matter of fact, when you're putting a locomotive kit together, it's quite easy to make the locomotive non functional simply by putting a single uninsulated wheel on the wrong side. I know this because I've done it, albeit not with a Varney Super Pacific. There are other ways to make a locomotive non-functional that are also quite easy, but a reversed wheelset is so common as to be a virtual cliche.
RoadieI will be trying to repair this my self but that why you pay the big bucks and buy new so you don't have to worry about fixin them for at least one year known as a Warranty
Doesn't matter if the loco has a warrenty or not, as we have seen with the poor and slow service to get a problem taken care of. Most companies view a warrenty as a necessary evil, at least it seems when it comes to model railroading equipment. This has a tendency to make the warrenty worthless.
Another thing to keep in mind too, is warrenties on this equipment is relatively new to the hobby. From the 60's up to the mid 1990's the majority of companies never offered a warrenty, whether the model cost $6 or $6000. You were expected to learn how to repair them yourself, as the company wouldn't.
The Varney Pacific was sold to kit builders who wouldn't have bought the thing if they didn't have the skills to build it and, presumably, fix it. MTH doesn't sell kits AFAIK. They sell complete models that a reasonable buyer should expect to run, especially considering the price. Nothing is perfect, so they offer a service that is supposed to address problems if they occur. It doesn't seem unreasonable to expect that service to do what MTH says it will.
If I had a model with a minor problem, I'd probably try to fix it myself rather than send it away for who knows how long. But would I be voiding the warranty if I did that? Of course, IF the OP's allegations are all true, the warranty may not be worth the paper it's written on anyway.
I don't own any MTH locos, so I don't have a dog on this hunt.
Was there a misprint in the song lyrics? I guess it's easy to confuse MTH with MTA.
My comment isn't about MTH since I own none of their products. Rather it's toward the idea that we should be willing to accept poor quality because we should fix it ourselves. Not only on this forum, but others I visit on woodworking machines. In many cases, I'm very capable of fixing it myself. But why should I? If I paid good money for something, I expect to get what I paid for. The comparison to the Varney kit is a red herring. In that case you paid for the kit and should be putting it together. But what if the boiler was broken in half? Should you repair it yourself or should the manufacturer provide a replacement?
What if it was a new car instead of a model? Would you fix it yourself or expect the warranty to mean something? If it's a $5 blue box kit, I have one level of expectation. But if it's a several hundred dollar RTR model, my expectations are very different.
I honestly scoff at the "why don't you repair it yourself" response, maybe we shouldn't assume folks can do that just because. I thought everybody could paint their own models, until a fellow poster said otherwise.
speaking of which, I must go reassemble a pair of C424's.
SP&S modeler, 1960's give or take a decade or two for some equipment.
http://www.youtube.com/user/SGTDUPREY?feature=guide
Gary DuPrey
N scale model railroader
Burlington Northern #24I honestly scoff at the "why don't you repair it yourself"
Gary,That does work for minor problems..I had a brand new Atlas N Scale GP9 that screamed and ran about 5 smph at full throttle..I took the engine apart and simply reassembled it and it ran as a Atlas should-smooth and quiet..
No,I have no idea what I did to fit it.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
I don't own any MTH products but it shouldn't make any difference when it comes to standing behind your products. I assume it was made in China, but don't really know; but, as most of the locos today are, the manufacturers have to have a staff of 'qualified' technicians to repair them here in the USA. Parts seem to be a problem with many manufacturers (they don't keep them in stock?) so repairs become a little 'risky' in my book. I have two recently purchased steam engines in HO that I am reluctant to send to the manufacturer for repair (not under warranty) and because of the nature of steam loco drivers, it is not an easy repair for the average modeller. This is where the dilema comes in for many as to whether to try to repair a steam engine drive system and apparently also a problem for some manufacturer's repair departments. I hope the industry gets this staightened out so we don't have so many unhappy customers out here, myself included.
I have considered purchasing a quartering jig and guaging equipment for steam locos so I can do some of these repairs myself. I don't know of any LHS that has qualified staff to do these repairs; heck, I can't even get any help with DCC and decoders at mine.
-Bob
Life is what happens while you are making other plans!
Burlington Northern #24 I honestly scoff at the "why don't you repair it yourself" response, maybe we shouldn't assume folks can do that just because. I thought everybody could paint their own models, until a fellow poster said otherwise. speaking of which, I must go reassemble a pair of C424's.
If you had really read my post, you'd see I said to learn not go ahead to do it. I also have never assumed that folks can do things for themselves, otherwise I wouldn't have been able to make a good bit of money off of doing repairs like this, and custom painting.
These were skills that not to long ago, were almost essential to being a model railroader. While I know that times have changed, I don't believe that the change over to RTR & warranties poorly served is good for the hobby.
cjcrescent Burlington Northern #24 I honestly scoff at the "why don't you repair it yourself" response, maybe we shouldn't assume folks can do that just because. I thought everybody could paint their own models, until a fellow poster said otherwise. speaking of which, I must go reassemble a pair of C424's. If you had really read my post, you'd see I said to learn not go ahead to do it. I also have never assumed that folks can do things for themselves, otherwise I wouldn't have been able to make a good bit of money off of doing repairs like this, and custom painting. These were skills that not to long ago, were almost essential to being a model railroader. While I know that times have changed, I don't believe that the change over to RTR & warranties poorly served is good for the hobby.
"But what does surprise me, is no one seems willing to learn how to do these repairs themselves anymore."
Nobody's willing to learn... I taught myself. Maybe the OP isn't retired, or doesn't have many of the time many posters here have. Maybe he's like me, stuck in an area with no LHS.
it's 2014, it's time to leave the 1:1 past in the past. If many of the "modelers" here did as much modeling as they say they do, there would be more modeling threads and less clutter. I'll admit I'm plenty guilty of armchair modeling.
Burlington Northern #24 If many of the "modelers" here did as much modeling as they say they do, there would be more modeling threads and less clutter.
First that's a great idea..A forum that actually shows modeling..Won't happen though..Its to easy to moan,groan and kvetch.
I do a lot of modeling but,gave up on posting photos too many experts and expert wannabes that says this or that not correct (say on a P2K GP38-2),you should do this or that instead and the coup de grace via pm stating I should invest in a high dollar camera and lighting system or not bother to post photos.I also gave up on trying to start informative topics on various rail served industries, switching operation on a ISL and modeling a modern short line.
OK, some of us can do some of the repairs - IF MTH WILL ANSWERR THEIR E-MAIL AND SELL ME THE PART!!!!
I admit that the problem I have withmy MTH SD70ACe is because I was clumsy and dropped it. Neither my local dealer or myself can get them to send me the front power truck that I need to do the repair. If I had the parts, it's Tinker Toys to assemble, but I cannot cast a new truck gear tower myself. MTH has demonstraed NO interest in any attemt at customer service and won't answer their customer service line or answer emails. I think Mike is too busy hanging out with his battalion of lawyers to actually care about any model railroaders.
MTH showed a nice looking sample of their upcoming GEVO and Dash 9 diesels in HO. I need both to upgrade my BNSF power, but I will not ever buy them from MTH!
Just tossing out my two cents......I have no real experience with buying a locomotive that needed to be returned, so I can't based my thoughts on personal bad experiences here.
It seems to be that with limited run production being more common, that would also mean limited parts production. I wonder if MTH even has parts on hand or if they resort to cannibilizing unsold or returned items, and ran out of spares.
Not to pick on MTH, because I have absolutley no experience with them, but at $600, I'm not sure I would trust anyone at MTH to work on my locomotive. I'd only trust me, or somebody I knew locally that I could trust and maybe pay (like a gift card to a restaurant) to do the work if I didn't want to do it. Even sending a $600 loco back through the mail would concern me.
- Douglas
Maybe we should get the model train manufacturers to follow the auto industry and make it manditory that they stock ALL replacement parts for at least 7 years after the introductory model is sold? At least then we would have half a chance to fix the darn things with new parts.
You seem to forget that the auto industry produces output in the MILLIONs of units/year, that production is pretty much continuous throughout the year and that a model of a particular car usually goes through a 5 year production cycle before it goes through substantial changes.
The manufacturers would probably love it if they could sell, say, 100-500K Challengers/year over a 5 year coninuous production cycle. However, what they would love and what will actually happen are at massive variance with each other.
Also, many parts for older cars are parts that have been reconditioned ranging from complete engines down to things like starters. That ain't going to happen either. There's no money in it, whereas there was money to be made in something like Pontiac water pumps for its V8's (they ate water pumps for breakfast).
Andre- who worked in an auto parts store in another life.
andrechapelonAlso, many parts for older cars are parts that have been reconditioned ranging from complete engines down to things like starters
I can still buy a new starter for my '95 Buick for around $99.00..The remanufacture starters are cheaper..
I love my almost antique car--next year I might be able to buy antique car plates.
Andre,
I realize there is no comparison to the auto industry, just trying to make a point about supporting your products! Geez?
farrellaa Andre, I realize there is no comparison to the auto industry, just trying to make a point about supporting your products! Geez? -Bob
Athearn still sells parts for their older BB cars and locomotives as does Atlas for their older yellow and red box locomotives and cars.Bowser has parts as well.
Seeing Athearn,Atlas and Bowser stocks parts why can't the other manufacturers?
Larry,
In IL. the vehicle has to be 25yrs old to get AV plates. Four year plates. I have a garage wall, full of them. Three are still good until 2017, one still on the 79 vette.
I'd rather collect cars, than Trains, but oh well! When You get my age, you gotta, play with trains. It's harder every year to get in and out the vette.
Frank
BRAKIE andrechapelon Also, many parts for older cars are parts that have been reconditioned ranging from complete engines down to things like starters I can still buy a new starter for my '95 Buick for around $99.00..The remanufacture starters are cheaper.. I love my almost antique car--next year I might be able to buy antique car plates.
andrechapelon Also, many parts for older cars are parts that have been reconditioned ranging from complete engines down to things like starters
Hello Everybody,
I am new to this forum and to Model Railroader as l have now developed an
affliction to large scale American Steamers, l am from the UK and have a large
number of BLI and Athearn models which are all superb, unfortunately l bought
the MTH Yellowstone and have just run it on my Ecos DCC controller and all l
got was a sizzle sound and then the death smell of electronics.
I went throught the manual and in one part it says the Protosound 3 is fully
compatable and in another part says that the system will overheat if a DCS/DCC
switch is in the wrong position, SWITCH where did that come from.
I have tried to contact MTH twice now and no reply, anybody had the same problem and should l not bother with the MTH warranty and just fix it myself with an Ecos PCB.
Still love your American locos but not MTH at the moment.
WindypeteI went throught the manual and in one part it says the Protosound 3 is fully compatable and in another part says that the system will overheat if a DCS/DCC switch is in the wrong position, SWITCH where did that come from.
Interesting that you should have this experience. I'm not a steam guy but I just happened to read a review of that same engine in the October, 2016, issue of MR.
Halfway through the review it states "A slide switch selects DCC or DCS mode. It's important not to run the model in DCS mode on a DCC layout or there"s a risk of burning out the board."
I guess my opinion is that such information shound be printed on a piece of paper sitting directly on the packing material in the box on top of the model.