Tom,
I took your advice and added what weight i could over the front drivers. It pulls a little better now. I'm going to order some Bullfrog Snot tonight or tomorrow unless I can find it in a local hobby shop. Hopefully that will do the trick.
Thanks for the suggestion/help.
Remember its your railroad
Allan
Track to the BRVRR Website: http://www.brvrr.com/
Two of my projects this weekend have been patching a GP9 for the L&A and mounting a Varney metal F3B shell on an Athearn F7 powered chassis. One was easy, the other not so easy.The GP9 is a Walthers GP9m, single flywheel, standard DC.The F3B is a Varney die-cast metal shell on a stock Athearn F7 chassis with a hard wired DCC decoder. The F3B is #2 in a three loco consist of all powered F units representing Stewart, Varney, Athearn, NWSL and Life-Like. The unit still has to be painted but is operational.
Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam
my 8 yo daughter helping put the base coat of paint on a big mountain
Check out the Deming Sub by clicking on the pics:
BRVRR Tom, I took your advice and added what weight i could over the front drivers. It pulls a little better now. I'm going to order some Bullfrog Snot tonight or tomorrow unless I can find it in a local hobby shop. Hopefully that will do the trick.
If the loco is a little light at the front end, then I wouldn't recommend putting the Bullfrog Snot on the rear drivers. The Snot grips great, but it'll create a fulcrum if it's too far to the rear and the loco is a little light, and the front of the engine will want to pull off of the rails. Voice of experience talking here, though I was working with Spectrum 2-8-0's. Better to Snot the second set of drivers (if I may use the word 'snot' as a verb...)
Just a helpful hint from your Uncle Jim
"I am lapidary but not eristic when I use big words." - William F. Buckley
I haven't been sleeping. I'm afraid I'll dream I'm in a coma and then wake up unconscious. -Stephen Wright
I added some vegetation to the mountain and took down the wall protection, now to clean the track and run some trains:
Phil, I'm not a rocket scientist; they are my students.
Another CSX loco hit Sweethome Alabama tonight
Jon
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posted these in another thread but thought I would share here. I am weathering the ties on the layout using AIM powders. I have been using pics I took where I railfan to use as a referance.
Jeremy, you have done a super job with the ballast. The ties look very good as well, and so does the powder on the spikes and such. Is it your intention to continue with the powder? May I suggest you paint the rails first, maybe a tan, and then powder them to get the rusty look? I would recommend Roof Brown, Plain Jane Brown (no, I'm kidding, I just mean any 'brown'), or try Tamiya 'Red Brown'.
My assessment is that you have the ties down cold...good job.
Crandell
Deming...as in Deming, NM? My fiancee has been staying in Deming since Dec. 29 doing geology field work in the Tres Hermanas.
Robert H. Shilling II
mononguy63, Jim,
Thanks for the tip. I intended to put the Bullfrog Snot on the second set of drivers as they are the 'geared' drivers on this loco. The demonstration tape I watched for Bullfrog Snot 'recommended' putting it on the 'geared' drivers.
Thanks again for your help.
Hi Jeremy,
I have to agree with Selector that you'll want to paint the rails, but I'll disagree with his comments on the ties- they look much to uniform, and under the good lighting you used for a photograph, they look very plastic.
This can be corrected by painting all of the track (ideally before ballast) including the ties, and than going back over the ties with here and there with a light drybrush, or a much heavier application of the powders (or a plaster based powder approach).
As you've already put down ballast, I'd suggest painting the rails, and than hit the ties and ballast with a medium drybrush of gray, followed by more powders, not forgetting a light to medium coat of black down the center of the track.
Hope this helps.
I'm trying to model 1956, not live in it.
Curt Webb,
just pointing out that the first pier on your coal trestle doesn't' look straight. Hoping it's not to late to correct that, as the rest looks great.
Cheers
Geared Steam I added Tsunami sound to my MDC boxcab shell/Bachmann 44 ton Hybrid.
I added Tsunami sound to my MDC boxcab shell/Bachmann 44 ton Hybrid.
What sound scheme did you use?
John
selector Curt Webb and McFunkey, nice work fellas. I've said it already this thread, but we have some great talent here, the better for us that they are willing to take photos, upload them to a webhost, and then provide links here. Well, as I have alluded to earlier in the week, I am finally embarking on layout #3. It will go in an unused loft above our "barn" which is really a garage with a loft on the top level. The loft is accessed by a sliding metal-framed door. At the door, this is what the space looks like. Note the batter on the walls which are really the inner hipped root. Also, you can see where I have placed tape to indicate how it will all work. I paid attention only to curve radii and turnout angles to make sure it would all work. Indications of the bench perimeter are still flexible. The aisle width between the peninsula at left and center and the edge of the yard at right is a bit over 24". No probs for a little fella like me. The place where I am standing, at the open door, will have a roughly 30" lift-out block bridge on which will be a #6 double-crossover. The main will be twinned. The bridge will have adjustable height and yaw to deal with movement that may impact alignment from time to time. This is the helix and turning wye. The tail of the wye will be the reversing leg. It descends, as does the track running in the helix above it, at 2%. The 34" radius in the helix assures at least 4" of clearance. This will be plenty for the 1/2" ply roadbed. The mountain housing this spiral tunnel will have a lift-off top. The crossing works out, handily, to 30 degrees. Tracks are already received, Atlas code 83 I am looking forward to this. I'll keep posting images as I go along. One of the first things I did was to make a comprehensive list of things to do, in order, with notes and cautions. Caution #1 was to do it right! No more rushing! Who, me? Crandell
Curt Webb and McFunkey, nice work fellas. I've said it already this thread, but we have some great talent here, the better for us that they are willing to take photos, upload them to a webhost, and then provide links here.
Well, as I have alluded to earlier in the week, I am finally embarking on layout #3. It will go in an unused loft above our "barn" which is really a garage with a loft on the top level.
The loft is accessed by a sliding metal-framed door. At the door, this is what the space looks like. Note the batter on the walls which are really the inner hipped root. Also, you can see where I have placed tape to indicate how it will all work. I paid attention only to curve radii and turnout angles to make sure it would all work. Indications of the bench perimeter are still flexible. The aisle width between the peninsula at left and center and the edge of the yard at right is a bit over 24". No probs for a little fella like me.
The place where I am standing, at the open door, will have a roughly 30" lift-out block bridge on which will be a #6 double-crossover. The main will be twinned. The bridge will have adjustable height and yaw to deal with movement that may impact alignment from time to time.
This is the helix and turning wye. The tail of the wye will be the reversing leg. It descends, as does the track running in the helix above it, at 2%. The 34" radius in the helix assures at least 4" of clearance. This will be plenty for the 1/2" ply roadbed. The mountain housing this spiral tunnel will have a lift-off top. The crossing works out, handily, to 30 degrees. Tracks are already received, Atlas code 83
I am looking forward to this. I'll keep posting images as I go along. One of the first things I did was to make a comprehensive list of things to do, in order, with notes and cautions. Caution #1 was to do it right! No more rushing!
Who, me?
WOO HOO!!! Way to go Crandell!!
Keep us posted! I'm looking forward to seeing your next effort!
jon grant Another CSX loco hit Sweethome Alabama tonight Jon
Jon,
You do know it's against the rules to take a picture of the prototype and try to pass it off as a model, don't you?
Awesome, just awesome. I can't think of any other word to describe it. You are indeed the Rembrandt of Model Railroading! Me, I'm the Picaso... :-)
Jon: Get rid od the trip pin and you'll have the rivet counters fighting about whether it's real or not!
Thanks guys for the tips.
I have been weathering more ties. And I was looking at my photos that I taken while railfanning and notice that they are alot dirtier and grimy then just the ties. Here are some phots of what I have done so far and the prototype pics. The pics of the model are brighter then in real life.
Here is an area I am currently working on. It will be a multipurpose siding but mainly handling wood, sand and gravel, and coal products.
I still have to add the posts to the side wall and completely built a wall for the other side which will be approx. a foot long. Then I will stain all of the sections.
GE Cummins diesel sound
"The true sign of intelligence is not knowledge but imagination."-Albert Einstein
http://gearedsteam.blogspot.com/