John
GE Cummins diesel sound
"The true sign of intelligence is not knowledge but imagination."-Albert Einstein
http://gearedsteam.blogspot.com/
Here is an area I am currently working on. It will be a multipurpose siding but mainly handling wood, sand and gravel, and coal products.
I still have to add the posts to the side wall and completely built a wall for the other side which will be approx. a foot long. Then I will stain all of the sections.
Robert H. Shilling II
Thanks guys for the tips.
I have been weathering more ties. And I was looking at my photos that I taken while railfanning and notice that they are alot dirtier and grimy then just the ties. Here are some phots of what I have done so far and the prototype pics. The pics of the model are brighter then in real life.
Jon: Get rid od the trip pin and you'll have the rivet counters fighting about whether it's real or not!
Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam
jon grant Another CSX loco hit Sweethome Alabama tonight Jon
Another CSX loco hit Sweethome Alabama tonight
Jon
Jon,
You do know it's against the rules to take a picture of the prototype and try to pass it off as a model, don't you?
Awesome, just awesome. I can't think of any other word to describe it. You are indeed the Rembrandt of Model Railroading! Me, I'm the Picaso... :-)
selector Curt Webb and McFunkey, nice work fellas. I've said it already this thread, but we have some great talent here, the better for us that they are willing to take photos, upload them to a webhost, and then provide links here. Well, as I have alluded to earlier in the week, I am finally embarking on layout #3. It will go in an unused loft above our "barn" which is really a garage with a loft on the top level. The loft is accessed by a sliding metal-framed door. At the door, this is what the space looks like. Note the batter on the walls which are really the inner hipped root. Also, you can see where I have placed tape to indicate how it will all work. I paid attention only to curve radii and turnout angles to make sure it would all work. Indications of the bench perimeter are still flexible. The aisle width between the peninsula at left and center and the edge of the yard at right is a bit over 24". No probs for a little fella like me. The place where I am standing, at the open door, will have a roughly 30" lift-out block bridge on which will be a #6 double-crossover. The main will be twinned. The bridge will have adjustable height and yaw to deal with movement that may impact alignment from time to time. This is the helix and turning wye. The tail of the wye will be the reversing leg. It descends, as does the track running in the helix above it, at 2%. The 34" radius in the helix assures at least 4" of clearance. This will be plenty for the 1/2" ply roadbed. The mountain housing this spiral tunnel will have a lift-off top. The crossing works out, handily, to 30 degrees. Tracks are already received, Atlas code 83 I am looking forward to this. I'll keep posting images as I go along. One of the first things I did was to make a comprehensive list of things to do, in order, with notes and cautions. Caution #1 was to do it right! No more rushing! Who, me? Crandell
Curt Webb and McFunkey, nice work fellas. I've said it already this thread, but we have some great talent here, the better for us that they are willing to take photos, upload them to a webhost, and then provide links here.
Well, as I have alluded to earlier in the week, I am finally embarking on layout #3. It will go in an unused loft above our "barn" which is really a garage with a loft on the top level.
The loft is accessed by a sliding metal-framed door. At the door, this is what the space looks like. Note the batter on the walls which are really the inner hipped root. Also, you can see where I have placed tape to indicate how it will all work. I paid attention only to curve radii and turnout angles to make sure it would all work. Indications of the bench perimeter are still flexible. The aisle width between the peninsula at left and center and the edge of the yard at right is a bit over 24". No probs for a little fella like me.
The place where I am standing, at the open door, will have a roughly 30" lift-out block bridge on which will be a #6 double-crossover. The main will be twinned. The bridge will have adjustable height and yaw to deal with movement that may impact alignment from time to time.
This is the helix and turning wye. The tail of the wye will be the reversing leg. It descends, as does the track running in the helix above it, at 2%. The 34" radius in the helix assures at least 4" of clearance. This will be plenty for the 1/2" ply roadbed. The mountain housing this spiral tunnel will have a lift-off top. The crossing works out, handily, to 30 degrees. Tracks are already received, Atlas code 83
I am looking forward to this. I'll keep posting images as I go along. One of the first things I did was to make a comprehensive list of things to do, in order, with notes and cautions. Caution #1 was to do it right! No more rushing!
Who, me?
Crandell
WOO HOO!!! Way to go Crandell!!
Keep us posted! I'm looking forward to seeing your next effort!
Geared Steam I added Tsunami sound to my MDC boxcab shell/Bachmann 44 ton Hybrid.
I added Tsunami sound to my MDC boxcab shell/Bachmann 44 ton Hybrid.
What sound scheme did you use?
Curt Webb,
just pointing out that the first pier on your coal trestle doesn't' look straight. Hoping it's not to late to correct that, as the rest looks great.
Cheers
I'm trying to model 1956, not live in it.
Hi Jeremy,
I have to agree with Selector that you'll want to paint the rails, but I'll disagree with his comments on the ties- they look much to uniform, and under the good lighting you used for a photograph, they look very plastic.
This can be corrected by painting all of the track (ideally before ballast) including the ties, and than going back over the ties with here and there with a light drybrush, or a much heavier application of the powders (or a plaster based powder approach).
As you've already put down ballast, I'd suggest painting the rails, and than hit the ties and ballast with a medium drybrush of gray, followed by more powders, not forgetting a light to medium coat of black down the center of the track.
Hope this helps.
mononguy63, Jim,
Thanks for the tip. I intended to put the Bullfrog Snot on the second set of drivers as they are the 'geared' drivers on this loco. The demonstration tape I watched for Bullfrog Snot 'recommended' putting it on the 'geared' drivers.
Thanks again for your help.
Remember its your railroad
Allan
Track to the BRVRR Website: http://www.brvrr.com/
Deming...as in Deming, NM? My fiancee has been staying in Deming since Dec. 29 doing geology field work in the Tres Hermanas.
Jeremy, you have done a super job with the ballast. The ties look very good as well, and so does the powder on the spikes and such. Is it your intention to continue with the powder? May I suggest you paint the rails first, maybe a tan, and then powder them to get the rusty look? I would recommend Roof Brown, Plain Jane Brown (no, I'm kidding, I just mean any 'brown'), or try Tamiya 'Red Brown'.
My assessment is that you have the ties down cold...good job.
posted these in another thread but thought I would share here. I am weathering the ties on the layout using AIM powders. I have been using pics I took where I railfan to use as a referance.
Sweethome Chicago is now on Facebook
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my videos
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I added some vegetation to the mountain and took down the wall protection, now to clean the track and run some trains:
Phil, I'm not a rocket scientist; they are my students.
BRVRR Tom, I took your advice and added what weight i could over the front drivers. It pulls a little better now. I'm going to order some Bullfrog Snot tonight or tomorrow unless I can find it in a local hobby shop. Hopefully that will do the trick.
Tom,
I took your advice and added what weight i could over the front drivers. It pulls a little better now. I'm going to order some Bullfrog Snot tonight or tomorrow unless I can find it in a local hobby shop. Hopefully that will do the trick.
If the loco is a little light at the front end, then I wouldn't recommend putting the Bullfrog Snot on the rear drivers. The Snot grips great, but it'll create a fulcrum if it's too far to the rear and the loco is a little light, and the front of the engine will want to pull off of the rails. Voice of experience talking here, though I was working with Spectrum 2-8-0's. Better to Snot the second set of drivers (if I may use the word 'snot' as a verb...)
Just a helpful hint from your Uncle Jim
"I am lapidary but not eristic when I use big words." - William F. Buckley
I haven't been sleeping. I'm afraid I'll dream I'm in a coma and then wake up unconscious. -Stephen Wright
my 8 yo daughter helping put the base coat of paint on a big mountain
Check out the Deming Sub by clicking on the pics:
Two of my projects this weekend have been patching a GP9 for the L&A and mounting a Varney metal F3B shell on an Athearn F7 powered chassis. One was easy, the other not so easy.The GP9 is a Walthers GP9m, single flywheel, standard DC.The F3B is a Varney die-cast metal shell on a stock Athearn F7 chassis with a hard wired DCC decoder. The F3B is #2 in a three loco consist of all powered F units representing Stewart, Varney, Athearn, NWSL and Life-Like. The unit still has to be painted but is operational.
Thanks for the suggestion/help.
BRVRR . Next is improving the traction so the locomotive will pull more than two or three lighted passenger cars. Has anyone tried Bullfrog Snot? SP #4449 on a test run with its new decoder. A view of the electrical pick-ups I made from a few bits of wire and some .005" brass. Keep the photos and ideas coming guys. You always make this the best thread of the week.
. Next is improving the traction so the locomotive will pull more than two or three lighted passenger cars. Has anyone tried Bullfrog Snot?
SP #4449 on a test run with its new decoder.
A view of the electrical pick-ups I made from a few bits of wire and some .005" brass.
Keep the photos and ideas coming guys. You always make this the best thread of the week.
Alan:
Is there still room in the locomotive for some additional weight above the second set of drivers even with the decoder installed? I was able to increase the TE of my Bachmann "War Baby" GS loco with a few ounces of sheet lead installed on top of the weight (I used double-sided tape to insulate it from the split frame). Those babies tend to be a little 'cab-heavy' and more weight over the first two sets of drivers helps a lot. That and maybe some Bullfrog Snot on the last set of drivers might turn it into a good hauler.
Tom
Tom View my layout photos! http://s299.photobucket.com/albums/mm310/TWhite-014/Rio%20Grande%20Yuba%20River%20Sub One can NEVER have too many Articulateds!
Brunton Crandell, I've been expecting a new layout start for a couple years now. I'm looking forward to seeing your progress. How does the size of the new start compare with the existing layout? Scenery in three months?
Crandell,
I've been expecting a new layout start for a couple years now. I'm looking forward to seeing your progress. How does the size of the new start compare with the existing layout?
Scenery in three months?
Scenery in three months? LOL! But, uh....more than likely, yeah... Knowing me.
The layout's track footprint willl be about 260%% bigger than the current one, Mark. The length of main will be about 50% longer, but twinned, and the yard will be nearly doubled and with more functionality...it will work better as a yard.
What a pleasant surprise to hear from you!
Some marvelous things shown here this week!
Tom -awesome viaduct and a great scene. Even more impressive from the 'back' side.
Mr. Beasley - great little bar scene. I may have to steal a couple of your ideas for Judy's Bar $ Grill on the BRVRR.
Crandell - a great beginning. I'm sure I will not be the only person following your progress with great interest.
Not much happening on the BRVRR this week. I did install a Soundtraxx DSD100-LC decoder in my grandson's SP #4449. Its a simple Bachmann model and operated flawlessly on DC. With the installation of the sound decoder the operation was jerky at best. Some improvised electrical pick-ups on the tender wheels solved the problem. Next is improving the traction so the locomotive will pull more than two or three lighted passenger cars. Has anyone tried Bullfrog Snot?
Hi,
Some pictures of my future Corinnesburgh station in Nscale
It's features the combination of two Vollmer Baden-Baden station whith a scratchbuild bridge and columns
The station is inspired by the pictures published in MR from Mister Rod Stewart layout.
Have a good WE from Belgium.
Marc
Really good stuff this weekend, as usual.
I've not been doing much modeling lately. Whenever I sit down at the workdesk these days, I'm fast asleep within minutes. That has hindered my progress on projects somewhat. I did manage to finish another scratchbuild proof-of-concept building, though.
The base is the cardboard backing from a pad of paper. The lap siding and shingles were cut from 3x5 index cards, and all trim is printer paper. The siding was cut into strips using a little paper cutter my wife picked up long ago at a scrapbooking party. I have now used it more than she has.
I'm encouraged by the potential, and may be emboldened to try something a bit more ambitious. The best part is that this was built entirely with materials I scavenged from around the house (that actually would otherwise have been trash) and didn't cost me a red penny!
Jim
Mark P.
Website: http://www.thecbandqinwyoming.comVideos: https://www.youtube.com/user/mabrunton
jeffrey-wimberly PennCentral99: I actually started out with 3/8" rods (boy did they look WAY out of proportion). I will experiment with 3/16" and see what happens. I based the height on a 40' pole (I believe 40 feet at 1:87 = 4.6 inches). I thought about using wood skewers, but the diameter seemed a little small. Your measurement is off a bit. 4.6" = 33 scale feet. 5.5" = 40 scale feet or very close to it.
PennCentral99: I actually started out with 3/8" rods (boy did they look WAY out of proportion). I will experiment with 3/16" and see what happens. I based the height on a 40' pole (I believe 40 feet at 1:87 = 4.6 inches). I thought about using wood skewers, but the diameter seemed a little small.
I actually started out with 3/8" rods (boy did they look WAY out of proportion). I will experiment with 3/16" and see what happens. I based the height on a 40' pole (I believe 40 feet at 1:87 = 4.6 inches). I thought about using wood skewers, but the diameter seemed a little small.
Your measurement is off a bit. 4.6" = 33 scale feet. 5.5" = 40 scale feet or very close to it.
5.5" is my key dimension when designing. Anyway, the most precise ration I found out is 3.5mm per feet.
Matt
Proudly modelling the Quebec Railway Light & Power Co since 1997.
http://www.hedley-junction.blogspot.com
http://www.harlem-station.blogspot.com
Prolific week end!!!!
I've completed my new shelf layout benchwork today.
I've been working on the structures for the town by my carfloat terminal, which I've named Mooseport. One of the featured scenes is a waterfront bar and pool hall named The Brass Rat. There's a clue to the meaning of the name in this picture of the interior:
I built the interior out of foamboard, and used images downloaded from the web and printed on my computer for the walls, floor and front face of the bar. The barstools are carpet tacks. Figures are from Preiser and Woodland Scenics, and the pool table came from Scale Structures. It will look something like this when it's assembled and lighted.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Phil:
In a word: WOW!! That is one beautiful mountain. I'm not familiar with the Timberline rock coloring system, but I'm going to check it out--I could sure use some of it on the backside of the Buttes I have to finish.
Great job!