ho scale modular layout

[charliemorris026]

hey guys i am getting back into my railroading and i would like to know how to start a modular railroad.  i would like your input on how big to make the sections so i can take it apart and put it together again if i have to. 

[Anonymous]

In order to be able to handle the module, it should not exceed 2´ by 4´, which is about the limit a person can handle. Modules have to be built quite sturdy, so weight is a considerable factor. Anything above that size will be to heavy and too bulky.

By the way, I am building an N scale layout consisting of mini-modules not bigger than 6" by 12".

[dehusman]

charliemorris026

hey guys i am getting back into my railroading and i would like to know how to start a modular railroad.  i would like your input on how big to make the sections so i can take it apart and put it together again if i have to. 

Do you mean modular, where all the ends of the modules have the track in the same locations so you can rearrange the modules in any order or put them together with other people's modules in a public show, or do you mean sectional where the sections only go together in one unique order and the there is no standard positins for the tracks at each section joint?

If modular, go with the standards of the modular design you are using (i.e. N-Trak or Fremo).  If sectional then the largest piece you can move or transport yourself or that fits your space.  For sectional layouts I would go with open grid benchwork and pick a "standard" grid size and try to make as much of your layout those standard sizes.  On a previous layout, all the sections were 30"x72".  I could set two sections face to face and screw thin plywood or hardboard to the sides and ends to "box"  them for shipments.  I could easily move two sections by myself with a hand truck. 

[steamage]

I built my layout in 18" wide by 5 FT long sections.  It sits one shelf brackets and can be easily moved if needed.  I felt that 4 fT long sections were too short for the track plan switches, so I made them 5 feet. 

[cuyama]

Many folks have found 2'X6' or 30"X6' sections better for HO since it means fewer joints to interfere with turnout (track switch) placement. These are still quite movable. 

As others have noted, sections are chunks of railroad without a standardized interface at the ends of the section. This limits the way they can be reconnected in a new sapce.

Modules are built to specific standards at the ends so they can be interconnected freely with other modules built by the same or different builders.

Many people use the terms module and section interchangeably, but this is not correct.

The newest issue of the Layout Design Journal (LDJ-44) published by the Layout Design SIG includes multiple stories on sectional, modular, and portable layouts.

If you decide to build modules, Free-mo is one useful standard to explore. Even if you choose not to use the standard track  interface at the ends, there is still good information about constructing the pieces.

Best of luck with your layout.

[7j43k]

I hope/expect to build my home layout with two removable "sections" that, when an additional "section" is added onto each end, will add up to one free-mo "module".  I need those two additional pieces because it's not convenient for me to have the ends of the main pieces conform to free-mo standards.  When I add the additions, the assembly will.  If one can design the "sections" to conform to free-mo standards (or others, of course), then those adapter sections can be skipped.  

In the free-mo group that I'm involved with, there are at least two (excellent) modules that are made up of several "sections".

 

Ed

[wedudler]

Look at my Silver Valley RR, it's the route from module to module. And I take those modules with me to FREMO meetings.

There will be an article in the upcoming Layout Design Journal #44, which is in the mail to Layout Design SIG members.

Wolfgang

[fwright]

charliemorris026

....i would like to know how to start a modular railroad.  i would like your input on how big to make the sections so i can take it apart and put it together again if i have to.

The words I have emphasized would imply that you want to build modular because you plan to move the layout some day - not because you want to set up with your own and possibly others' modules at a show or operating session.

The 2 goals are quite different, although modular techniques are often used to build movable layouts.

As a well-qualified former member of Uncle Sam's frequent relocation club, I would offer that thinking through the following before building a movable layout would likely to be beneficial.

• First, and biggest (in my mind) is the psychology of moving.  Assuming you are doing more than moving to another house in the same town, psychologically moving represents a chance to "start over".  Typically, your work environment and duties will be different, you will have a different house/home, the culture of the new location will be different, you will have new friends, and most of your existing stuff will not as well suited for the new life as it is to your present life.  In the model railroading world, you will be exposed to new prototypes and local focus, a new LHS, and new fellow modelers (if you join a club or fellowship) with different techniques and interests.  In light of all this change, to have the same modeling interests after a few years in the new location would not be the norm.
• Moving is far more expensive and time consuming than most realize because the costs and hours are not aggregated.  As I said, much of your stuff will not be as well suited to your new home as you would like.  Just watch how much of your furniture and clothing and home decor gets replaced in the first 2 years in the new home.  If your modeling interests change, then the time, tears, and $$ spent moving it to the new location were wasted.  Better to have sold it all off and start over with stuff and a layout that matches the new interests and home.
• 8 weeks and less before a move is crunch time.  There are a million things to do and get ready, and getting the trains ready for the move is low on the priority list - no matter how you may wish differently.  This is especially true if you left the cutting/removal of the track, wire, or scenery until it was actually needed for the move.  I never was able to crate a layout before the move - I barely had time to pack the rolling stock and structures.
• Moving damages stuff - period.  And stuff disappears.  Some moves are better than others, but there is always some damage and/or loss.  Consider it part of the cost of moving.
• No two houses are the same.  The space for your layout will not be the same in the new house.  The best case happens when the layout space in the new house is slightly bigger, but same configuration as the old.  Then you can use your old layout - at least until you decide to build a new one.  The worst case (and much more common) is a completely different space configuration and/or smaller space in the new house.  The old layout is now useless unless it's modular enough to broken down and re-formed into a smaller layout.  Regardless of how good a situation you get, the new house will call for some changes to re-optimze the layout for the new space.
• Unless you plan and execute carefully, realignment of the layout sections in the new house will be difficult.  Consider how tight the relignment tolerances have to be for a track joint to work well in HO or N, and then consider the tolerances to which house floors are flat and level, and walls are straight, true, and vertical.  True modular layouts go through this at every setup, which is why they have such precise and/or adjustable interfaces.
• Sectional and modular design requires some sub-optimization of track, structure, and scenic feature location near the section/module boundaries.  Extra work in wiring and wiring design is needed.  Extra framework is needed for each section, and to maintain the integrity of the section boundary.  Control architecture has to be set up to be separable when the time comes to move.

Small home layouts - 4x8 or smaller islands (possibly with extensions), and L shape or straight shelf layouts move best.  The number of sections is reasonable, and you have a better chance of fitting the old layout in a new space as a beginning.

Next easiest to move is a layout with one or two "precious" sections connected with expendable pieces.  The expendable pieces allow the precious sections to be reconfigured and linked in the new space with new expendable pieces. 

As has been covered in other threads on the subject, limiting length of a section to 6ft or less means it will pass vertically through a doorway, and will fit in the back of most SUVs or minivans with rear seats folded down.

my thoughts, your choices

Fred W