charliemorris026 ....i would like to know how to start a modular railroad. i would like your input on how big to make the sections so i can take it apart and put it together again if i have to.
....i would like to know how to start a modular railroad. i would like your input on how big to make the sections so i can take it apart and put it together again if i have to.
The words I have emphasized would imply that you want to build modular because you plan to move the layout some day - not because you want to set up with your own and possibly others' modules at a show or operating session.
The 2 goals are quite different, although modular techniques are often used to build movable layouts.
As a well-qualified former member of Uncle Sam's frequent relocation club, I would offer that thinking through the following before building a movable layout would likely to be beneficial.
Small home layouts - 4x8 or smaller islands (possibly with extensions), and L shape or straight shelf layouts move best. The number of sections is reasonable, and you have a better chance of fitting the old layout in a new space as a beginning.
Next easiest to move is a layout with one or two "precious" sections connected with expendable pieces. The expendable pieces allow the precious sections to be reconfigured and linked in the new space with new expendable pieces.
As has been covered in other threads on the subject, limiting length of a section to 6ft or less means it will pass vertically through a doorway, and will fit in the back of most SUVs or minivans with rear seats folded down.
my thoughts, your choices
Fred W
Look at my Silver Valley RR, it's the route from module to module. And I take those modules with me to FREMO meetings.
There will be an article in the upcoming Layout Design Journal #44, which is in the mail to Layout Design SIG members.
Wolfgang
Pueblo & Salt Lake RR
Come to us http://www.westportterminal.de my videos my blog
I hope/expect to build my home layout with two removable "sections" that, when an additional "section" is added onto each end, will add up to one free-mo "module". I need those two additional pieces because it's not convenient for me to have the ends of the main pieces conform to free-mo standards. When I add the additions, the assembly will. If one can design the "sections" to conform to free-mo standards (or others, of course), then those adapter sections can be skipped.
In the free-mo group that I'm involved with, there are at least two (excellent) modules that are made up of several "sections".
Ed
Many folks have found 2'X6' or 30"X6' sections better for HO since it means fewer joints to interfere with turnout (track switch) placement. These are still quite movable.
As others have noted, sections are chunks of railroad without a standardized interface at the ends of the section. This limits the way they can be reconnected in a new sapce.
Modules are built to specific standards at the ends so they can be interconnected freely with other modules built by the same or different builders.
Many people use the terms module and section interchangeably, but this is not correct.
The newest issue of the Layout Design Journal (LDJ-44) published by the Layout Design SIG includes multiple stories on sectional, modular, and portable layouts.
If you decide to build modules, Free-mo is one useful standard to explore. Even if you choose not to use the standard track interface at the ends, there is still good information about constructing the pieces.
Best of luck with your layout.
Layout Design GalleryLayout Design Special Interest Group
I built my layout in 18" wide by 5 FT long sections. It sits one shelf brackets and can be easily moved if needed. I felt that 4 fT long sections were too short for the track plan switches, so I made them 5 feet.
charliemorris026 hey guys i am getting back into my railroading and i would like to know how to start a modular railroad. i would like your input on how big to make the sections so i can take it apart and put it together again if i have to.
hey guys i am getting back into my railroading and i would like to know how to start a modular railroad. i would like your input on how big to make the sections so i can take it apart and put it together again if i have to.
Do you mean modular, where all the ends of the modules have the track in the same locations so you can rearrange the modules in any order or put them together with other people's modules in a public show, or do you mean sectional where the sections only go together in one unique order and the there is no standard positins for the tracks at each section joint?
If modular, go with the standards of the modular design you are using (i.e. N-Trak or Fremo). If sectional then the largest piece you can move or transport yourself or that fits your space. For sectional layouts I would go with open grid benchwork and pick a "standard" grid size and try to make as much of your layout those standard sizes. On a previous layout, all the sections were 30"x72". I could set two sections face to face and screw thin plywood or hardboard to the sides and ends to "box" them for shipments. I could easily move two sections by myself with a hand truck.
Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com
In order to be able to handle the module, it should not exceed 2´ by 4´, which is about the limit a person can handle. Modules have to be built quite sturdy, so weight is a considerable factor. Anything above that size will be to heavy and too bulky.
By the way, I am building an N scale layout consisting of mini-modules not bigger than 6" by 12".