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Brass track/DC users ONLY--Update on ideas.

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  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Sliver City,Mich.
  • 708 posts
Posted by Catt on Thursday, July 7, 2011 4:32 PM

A friend of mine started with brass track and this was in the 1990s.He switched to DCC and ran trains regularly with no trouble.He kept hearing that you could not get reliable DCC operation with brass and finally switched to nickel silver track.

Now he hardly ever runs the layout because he has to clean the track all the time ,a problem he did not have with the brass.

So go figure,I told him if it ain't broke ,don't fix it .But he did anyway,now he doesn't enjoy his HO layout anymore.

Johnathan(Catt) Edwards 100 % Michigan Made
  • Member since
    June 2006
  • From: Maryville IL
  • 9,577 posts
Posted by cudaken on Thursday, July 7, 2011 4:16 PM

 Eagle-scout my self I installed some brass track about a year and half ago and have ran into not a single problem! I all so run DCC!

 Far as cleaning the same as my nickel plated track but I cheat. Most of my trains have a cheap Train Line track cleaner in tow. I have a good sizes layout, about 300 feet of track and I have not used my bright boy but maybe 5 times in the last 3 years.

 Because most people think brass is junk I got a great deal at Local Train Show a few years ago. I bought 20 turnout for $10.00. I am sure the guy was chuckling to him self thinking I was a idiot. I have had 6 of them installed for over a year now with out a problem.

 Cuda Ken 

I hate Rust

  • Member since
    February 2005
  • From: Southwest US
  • 12,914 posts
Posted by tomikawaTT on Thursday, July 7, 2011 3:53 PM

Just a few comments:

  • The more you run, the cleaner it stays.
  • Metal wheels will burnish the rail. Plastic wheels will tend to foul it.
  • Dust is NOT your friend.  Vacuum the right-of-way frequently.

Literally thousands of train-kilometers have been run on brass rail.  Most of the anti-brass feeling is generated by the fact that, on club layouts that only got run once a month, corrosion would build up.  That, and the, "It don't look like steel," propaganda put out in the past, results in a lot of opinions that can't be substantiated by facts.

If you have brass, use it.

Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - including some brass rail)

  • Member since
    May 2008
  • 4,612 posts
Posted by Hamltnblue on Thursday, July 7, 2011 3:44 PM

We have some brass at the club.  Best thing we find is to get it clean and keep a thin coat of CRC 2-26 on it to prevent corrosion.  We have the least problems with it that way.  Also soldering the joiners will help a good bit as well.

Springfield PA

  • Member since
    September 2010
  • 547 posts
Brass track/DC users ONLY--Update on ideas.
Posted by eaglescout on Thursday, July 7, 2011 3:19 PM

Please, no nickel silver users ranting about what junk brass track is and what an idiot I am for using it.  I made my decision after research of the forums back 3-7 years and do not regret it.  It is down, ballasted and I'm not moving it.

What I would like to hear from are other brass track users, particularly those running DC and how they deal with common track issues like cleaning schedules, conductivity to turnouts, weathering track, transition to nickel silver track (if you use both), and any other tips you have utilized.  Also, those who "gleam" their track:  What is your long term opinion of how well that process works on brass track.

I will be expanding my layout after a move and will want to utilize larger radius track than 22" which is the largest brass snap track was made.  Is any brass flex track other than the old fiber ties available?  If nickel silver flex is the only option I guess I will have to go with that.

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