Chris,
I got your e-mail. I'm glad the photos were helpful. In this age of drab and plastic, VIA has great taste in decorating.
"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"
I just received my order of the Congo/Senator 29/1 Lounges from Walthers. VERY nice, and on sale too. Now I Really need the interior colors so I can do them before the outside.
Good News for you Pennsy and New Haven modelers. Union Station Products has agreed to do sides for the entire Congo/Senator consist including the flat end Obs. They will provide me with the details when they get their drawings donw so I'll keep you posted.
chris35Speaking of painting interiors, does anyone know the interior colours for VIA's Budd cars. I have some walthers kits of them that I would like to paint the interiors of. I have some coaches, a dome and diner. Much help would be appreciated. Also about the dome cars, what should I do for putting lighting in it as the kit doesn't fit and the dome woukd be unlite, anyone have this problem before and get around it? Thanks a bunch, Chris
Here are a couple of beautiful shots. I hope I don't cause a problem as I don't know who the photographer was so I could give him or her credit.
One shot is of a Dining Car and the other the downstairs section of a Dome Car. Very attractive. Gray seems to be the dominant color.
I find it amazing that these Budd cars are likely about 50 years old and yet their interiors look far more comfortable and attractive than Amtrak's newest Superliner and Acela equipment.
Enjoy and peace out crew.
Thanks for all of the help guys. I have been corresponding with Union Station Products and they have said they will produce the sides for the entire Congo/Senator consists.
As soon as I get the gory details, I'll post it in this forum.
I will still need the interior colors, and what is the best source for unpainted seated passengers, or should I just cut the standing ones at the waist? Empty seats just doesn't cut it as windows without shades or venetian blinds.
BigRusty wrote: Thanks CSmith. I didn't see any Budd corrugated "Congo" cars at NKP, but some good stuff for the Federal Consist, my next project. Walthers, only had one, PRR PP85. There were 5 in the Congo consist and 3 in the Senator so I ordered 8. We'll see. That is a nice listing of Train Station parts though.
Thanks CSmith. I didn't see any Budd corrugated "Congo" cars at NKP, but some good stuff for the Federal Consist, my next project.
Walthers, only had one, PRR PP85. There were 5 in the Congo consist and 3 in the Senator so I ordered 8. We'll see. That is a nice listing of Train Station parts though.
I mentioned in a different thread that I am not too familiar with Pennsy equipment, so I am just posting sources for stuff that I use. Train Station Products also makes the Budd roof vents (the small rectangular ones that look like chicken wire), and here is who I go to for vestibule vents (if you need this type)... http://www.showcaseminiatures.com/passengercar.html .
Also, here is another link for folks who produce brass car sides. I don't know if this does you any good, but what the heck...... http://www.brasscarsides.com/ .
These guys have a Pennsy Budd car. I have built several passenger cars using their sides, and in many cases the finished product is better than some brass offerings.
http://www.nkpcarco.com/prr_cars.htm
Walthers also has the complete line of Train Station Products stuff
http://www.walthers.com/exec/search?category=&scale=&manu=train+station+products&item=&keywords=&instock=Q&split=30&Submit=Search
Thanks for the Union Stations Products website URL.
I am trying to model the HO consists of the Congressional and Senator trains that ran from Washington, DC to Boston, MA on the PRR and New Haven for many years. USP does not have the sides for these cars but offer the Train Station 85 foot Budd Corrugated roof core kits and some corrugating that can be added to styrene sides. The various window patterns would have to be cut out for each car type.
I have located the consist, elevation, and floor plan drawings for these cars but have been unable to get any interior color details. So let's get on this one for all of us Pennsy and NH fans.
Also, this has been a great source for interior parts producers, but it would be VERY helpful if responders would provide the web sites or the addresses of these companies. Many of them are little known, do not advertise in this magazine of the other one and are almost impossible to google them.
We all owe a big thank you to Antonio for starting this thread.
BarryVedros wrote: WOW! Smitty, thanks so much for the additional info. I grabbed those pics and I'm ready to go. I'm glad to hear that they're pretty close to the real colors - never know how much artstic license is taken. I'm going to start with the IHC cars and move up from there. Since I'm just getting started, I'm still feeling my way around and not ready to drop the $$$ on more expensive cars. But I'm sure it won't take long for me to get there. I'd love to see some pics of yours when you're done. Barry
WOW! Smitty, thanks so much for the additional info. I grabbed those pics and I'm ready to go. I'm glad to hear that they're pretty close to the real colors - never know how much artstic license is taken. I'm going to start with the IHC cars and move up from there. Since I'm just getting started, I'm still feeling my way around and not ready to drop the $$$ on more expensive cars. But I'm sure it won't take long for me to get there. I'd love to see some pics of yours when you're done.
Barry
If you go back a couple of posts on this thread (on this page), those are cars for the late 50s consolidated El Capitan/Super Chief that I am just about finished modeling. The exterior of the cars are Floquil "Bright Silver", and the decals are Microscale.
Union Station Products ( www.unionstationproducts.com ) produces the correct car sides in styrene for the Budd Sunset Limited cars. They involve a little extra work, but that is why this forum is here!!
Quick and easy, here is a link to an auction of the same ads that I am using for the interior colors.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=011&item=320018509667&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1
The colors in these posters are definately a good representation of the interors. I especially like that they show the diner an coffee shop cars. I am planning on trying to get my hands on some of the Walthers Budd 10-6 interiors to use (I am using the Union Station Products sides). They are the correct floor plan. For the diners and chair cars, at this point I plan on using Palace Car Company interior parts. I am modeling a late 50s train, so there is also a 4-4-2 sleeper in there, so I will probably use styrene and scratch build that interior. The Precision Scale seats are perfect for the sleeper interiors, if you choose to go the scratch building route. I can't find a floor plan on the partitioned "Jim Crow" chair car (48 seat, 16 in one section, and 32 in the other). I have yet to check out the blunt end that Train Station Products has released to see if it will be good for the blunt end 10-6 sleeper. I am hoping so.
GuysI just found this thread and it's FANTASTIC! Just the info I was looking for. I'm looking for color charts for 1950's passenger car interiors - specifically the SP Sunset Limited corrugated Budd cars and the IC City of New Orleans Budd cars.
What type of material are you using for the "tinted pastic" on the windows? In TV/film production we use colored gel sheets in front of lights for effect. One is called "neutral density", which cuts the amount of light but doesn't colorize it - photographers here would be familiar with ND filters. The gel comes in 24"x26" sheets for about $5.00 from theatrical supply companies and one sheet can take care of the windows on your whole fleet. Does this sound like a similar material that would work?
Here are a few pics that you requested Antonio. They aren't the best, but hopefully they get the point across. There is a little dust on the cars, so they don't look so hot. I also included a better pic of the window rails.
"Updated"
Another detail that I have been adding to all my cars where needed (and one overlooked by me for too long) are the window rails. I use Detail Associates wire fixed in place with plastic cement. It is an easy detail to add and really improves the look of the car. The window rails are commonly found on windows that run along a corridor. I did the below car last night and it reminded me that this would be a great place to mention this simple detail. It is a Walthers Budd Santa Fe "Pine" 10-6 sleeper. I purchased this car undec, tore it down, and built it back up. I used Floquil "Bright Silver" sealed with Future. The underbody and trucks are actually a darker silver, it is just hard to tell in the pic.....
csmith9474 wrote: robert sylvester wrote: Speaking of sharpening up a Walther's passenger car, besides painting the interiors, I've noticed that some of the couplers don't match other couplers when trying to create a longer train with more of the Walthers cars. For example I bought two undecorated cars and they match fine, but when I added a C+O coach, the added on coach's coupler was too high. I checked the Kadee coupler guage, the same thing. By exchanging the coupler with the shank above the knuckle it worked fine.Also, eventhough Walther's says the coaches will take a 24" radius, guess what, the striker plates still get tangled up and cause a derail. By changing the coupler length, the coaches can handle the sharper curve and don't derail.Yard MasterWTRR In regards to the diaphrams, I replace all the Walthers diaphrams with the American Limited diaphrams that they make for the Walthers cars. Not only do they look a lot better, but operate better as well. They are not near as "stiff" as the ones that come on the cars. I saw that someone is also releasing weight upgrade kits for the Walthers cars, although I can't remember who off hand.
robert sylvester wrote: Speaking of sharpening up a Walther's passenger car, besides painting the interiors, I've noticed that some of the couplers don't match other couplers when trying to create a longer train with more of the Walthers cars. For example I bought two undecorated cars and they match fine, but when I added a C+O coach, the added on coach's coupler was too high. I checked the Kadee coupler guage, the same thing. By exchanging the coupler with the shank above the knuckle it worked fine.Also, eventhough Walther's says the coaches will take a 24" radius, guess what, the striker plates still get tangled up and cause a derail. By changing the coupler length, the coaches can handle the sharper curve and don't derail.Yard MasterWTRR
In regards to the diaphrams, I replace all the Walthers diaphrams with the American Limited diaphrams that they make for the Walthers cars. Not only do they look a lot better, but operate better as well. They are not near as "stiff" as the ones that come on the cars. I saw that someone is also releasing weight upgrade kits for the Walthers cars, although I can't remember who off hand.
I see that High Tech Details has announced a set of diaphrams w/photo etched Stainless Striker Plates. The kits look very nice and promising
Ch
MP 53 on the BNSF Topeka Sub
rghammill wrote:Just a correction to make on my earlier post. I was looking at the plan for the light weight cars and it states the floor is blue and black alternating tiles. In the picture the black looks like a dark gray. At this point I'm still waffling between doing a really accurate and complete interior that you'll have a hard time seeing, or sticking with the less detailed interiors that will be easier (and less expensive). In any event, when I get a chance I will work on putting together an accurate floor. It wouldn't be too hard to do a linoleum checker pattern in the correct colors in Photoshop, then reduce it down to size. Print if out on a full sheet of label paper and you have an instant floor. I would guess a gloss or semi-gloss sealer would add a nice touch. Maybe I'll try one of the car-side kits and leave one side off to use as a shelf-model. Of course, I'm just getting back into this, so I suspect my early attempts may not live up to my own expectations! Randy
I have modeled quite a few cars using brass car sides, and they are a lot of fun. With the availability of all the detail parts now days (thank goodness for Train Station Products), you can have a prototypical car on the rails in no time. The first one can be a bit tricky, but by all means, ask questions.
rghammill wrote:From pictures and text in "The New Haven's Streamline Passenger Fleet." NH light-weights (and pre-war coaches?): Alternating blue and gray floor tiles (9" was quoted on a thread at the NHRHTA forum) in a checkerboard pattern deep blue-gray walls to the windowsills. French gray around the windows with a Vermilion stripe above and below the windows and at wall-ceiling junction. Dark blue shades. White ceilings. The door looks like hunter green, but might be blue and the color is just shifted in the photo. The plans list the seats as 'blue mohair plush' NH Stainless streamliners: Similar to above, but stainless above the windows and on the ceiling. THe floor is dark blue and light gray, and in lenthwise stripes instead of a checkered pattern. There are three gray stripes going widthwise across the floor of the car at regular intervals. Two thinner vermillion stripes above the window instead of one larger one. Dark gray shades. Dark blue door. The plans list the seats as 'blue mohair plush' and if you're really picky have three stripes at about shoulder level, each increasing in width (the lowest being three times the width of the top) and a u-shaped dip in the center. I've also seen pictures with a beige cover over the headrest area with the script logo. The picture of the car with the smoking section has blue half-wall with glass for the upper half with three stripes and a train etched into either side. Stainless steel ash-tray pedastals. There is no door between the smoking section and the rest of the car. NH Lightweight Grill: Rust-colored floor with three large gray stripes. White counter with wide vermillion stripe around the top and a smaller one at the bottom. Vermillion walls (at least the upper portion) in the grill service area. Black tables with 3 vermilion stripes running lengthwise. Stainless walls and ceiling, although in the black-and-white picture it looks like walls under the window may be a different color. The seats also look to be of a darker color in the black and white photo. Light beige curtains with dark gray venetian blinds. Also, the coaches all have a small round mirror on either side of the door. There's also a picture of one of "four State-series 6 double-bedroom lounge-buffet cars" The picture shows the dining room: the walls are a light brown, the floor is carpeted with a brown pattern, dark brown chairs with light brown leather, and dark blue curtains and brown shades (the same color as the walls), white ceiling. Beyond that rooom is a strange light-green color room (the buffet?) Also, the older coaches had coathooks under the luggage rack, and the coats clearly block a portion of the window. In the picture there are 8 coats out of about 22 visible racks, but the number would vary based on the season. Enjoy! Time for me to get painting... Randy
Excellent! Thanks for your well detailed info. I have 4 E&B New Haven streamlined "Turtle Roof" cars that I need to put together and now I have an incentive to get working on them soon.
High Greens to you.
CAZEPHYR wrote: Since the car will be disassembled for the interior detailing, you can add tinted glass to the steamlined Budd cars. It make a big difference in the way the car looks. This can be done by using the tinted plastic inside the regular window glazing. The tricky portion of this installation is with the dome cars. The tinted glass can be shaped to the curves of the dome by cutting the proper size and inserting it in a short section of 1/2 inch plastic sprinker pipe. Use a hair blow dryer to apply some hot air and the tinted plastic will curl into the proper curve. With a little practice, it works and looks great.
Since the car will be disassembled for the interior detailing, you can add tinted glass to the steamlined Budd cars. It make a big difference in the way the car looks.
This can be done by using the tinted plastic inside the regular window glazing. The tricky portion of this installation is with the dome cars. The tinted glass can be shaped to the curves of the dome by cutting the proper size and inserting it in a short section of 1/2 inch plastic sprinker pipe. Use a hair blow dryer to apply some hot air and the tinted plastic will curl into the proper curve.
With a little practice, it works and looks great.
If you're modeling the CAZypher, CBQ cars or ATSF 2816 series 48 seat chair cars or the Hi-Level cars, then yes the windows will be tinted but, otherwise the windows weren't tinted except for the window in the domes itself
rghammill wrote:To psngrtrn: Wow! I'd never seen the Red Cap Line stuff http://www.redcapline.com Those blow away any other interior details I've seen anywhere. Adjustable seats with extending footrests. In HO. Randy
Red Cap Line's interior kits require more work but, they look excellent when assembled. I find however, Red Cap Line's stuff is better suited to cars where you will be able to actually see the stuff, Theater cars, domes and ATSF Hi-Level lounge cars come to mind
robert sylvester wrote: I have IHC, Walthers, Rivorrosi, Balboa brass, and others all with interiors and painted. The IHC interiors, I would spray a base coat (they are removable), then hand paint with variety of colors. Believe it or not I have several Athearn passenger coaches with interiors. Those are fun, they are a combination of white metal chairs, toilets, etc with cardstock to set up partitions and separate the vestibule. One of my favorites is the RPO, with the cubby holes for mail, as well as bags for mail. Walthers had sold these kits for years going back to the late 50's and early 60's. They had interiors for every Athearn car on the market. These had individual seats and interiors that you would glue on a base, styrene or balsa wood. By the way no need to add weight to the car after putting in these interiors. I don't know if Walther's even produces or distributes these any more. Of course they could be used in other brands.My kitchens are painted stainless steel, there are cooks in the kitchen, waiters in the diner, then I cut seated plastic figures at the waiste (they fit better), and glue them to the seats. I also hand paint the figures.Can you see very thing in the car, no, but I know it's there, but for the most part, as cars slowly pass through a town on the layout, you can see the painted, colorful interior and folks enjoying the ride and eating a meal.Yard MasterWTRR
Some of the easiest, and in my opinion the best, interior kits on the market are from The Palace Car Company (and they have interiors for Athearn cars)....
http://www.palacecarco.com/