When you post a photo, does it look like this?
[-img-]http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a70/DarthSantaFe/T-1Finished4.jpg[-/img-] (removes dashes)
If that's the way you do it, it should come out like this:
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Those Bachmann trainset transformers have very little power output (I'd say 0.5A before overload). They can handle any of Bachmann's engines (which draw no more than 0.3A on average), but a Bowser T-1 is pretty much out of the question. You can get a decent MRC power pack for $35 - $85 with around 4 times the power output of Bachmann's. The Railpower 1300 series is good for starters, and is the same power pack used by Athearn (except it's in an MRC box). The Tech II and Tech 4 are more high end, and pretty much everyone loves their Tech IIs.
Thats what I did and the pics come up dubble on me.....Ok I have alittle proublem guys...How big of a power pack/transformer I need for it.??This old bachmann N scale transformer model #6600 dont have the guts/power to run this train..it's input 120V. 60 HZ. A.C.. output: 18 V. A.C. 17 V. D.C.. MAX. output: 4VA. total..I'd thought HO&N transformers are universal with one another??
Joseywales - what a good looking beast she is! Just rolled out of the shops in Altoona! You have done a great job.
I upload my pictures to photobucket. When I want to insert a picture in a post here, I just click on the image in photobucket with the right button on the mouse, select "copy image location", go back to the pase, click on that little tree thing on the message board and paste the location where it says Image URL, the hit the button "Insert" and voila, here is my pic in the post! Try it!
heres some more pics..just remeber its not quite done yet..going to get new decials set for it..I'd left the messed up decial on the tender to see what it looked like..will remove them when the new decials gets here.." mce_src="">" mce_src="">
thank guys.. first train I'd ever put together in my life..some of the brass work shouldve been made better...alot of fileing work on those rail hold downs..they should made the front ones like the back ones on the boiler.. I think they where press made and fit nicely too....On the dubble pics?? I'd been asking you guys about what I'm doing wrong on posting my pics with no answer/reply to my question....What I been doing is copie the pics and pasting at the top of the image URL and thats it..then post them...How are you guys go by posting your.????..I'll put a white back ground and retake the pics..
- more pics please!
May I offer a word of advice? If you put up a length of white or light blue colored cardboard behind the loco, it will show much better, what a fantastic job you have done. Also lower the viweing perspective a little more and your pics will be perfect.
Btw - why do your pics always come up twice?
Joseywales, you have done a fantastic job painting that beauty. Simply outstanding. Gotta love that tender deck, and one you put the lenses on the rear marker lamp slots, please post more pics!
Ya they didnt go on wright.. I have used this style of decials in 13 years..Thats on model cars..lol!!..Might order a new set and have the local sign/grafic shop make me some news one's.. Or could see if I can get some from BLI???See if they sale spair /replacements decials for there T1 duplex..I left the decials on the one side of the tender ,that was the only spot I'd put the decials on..I'd left them on to take pics to show you guys...going to make side lenzes for the maker lights.Going to try to run the side/mars and lower front light by fiber opics the same in the tender on the red mars lights.." mce_src="">
Did the decals not stick? Do you have any decal setting solution? Bowser decals won't stick well without it, as I found early on with my first kit. Walthers Solvaset works very well.
I'm looking forward to seeing what you do with the finished kit! It looks very good so far.
It's gloss black/green now...I'd used etch primer on it first,that is pea green,,then used black primer,then used gloss black/green..wont clear coat it until I get new decials for it..Going to run one powerfull upto date motor in it..I'll run the challanger/bigboy drive system in it..because the front motor will be in the way of a smoke unit..I have a trainshop checking on a MTH challanger smoke unit for me.....I'll post new pics tonight...Crandell,I'd looked at that thread aweek ago,and saved it..I'd stumbled on that thread when I did a google surch...
Wow, you have done a lot of good work on that model...well done! It should be a stunning and strong performer when you are done.
You may wish to take a look through this thread on another forum by someone who knows Pennsy engines and how they appeared to people viewing them:
http://ogaugerr.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/57660482/m/956105581
-Crandell
Very nice, love that paint job.
here some progress pics of it..The decials on this train stink on ice..plus there was one set missing too..going to have to order some new ones for it...made the two holes at the top front end plus added the four small humps at the top front end too.I'll post new pics tonight of it..kind of liked the bear metal with the brass looks.." mce_src="">" mce_src="">
I'll be postic pics of my progress tonight..I have a coat of black to see what it looks like...where do one finds that brunswick green at?
markpierceSo, this Bowser is an articulated model of a non-articulated prototype? Thank goodness at least the engine frame seems solid. Mark
So, this Bowser is an articulated model of a non-articulated prototype? Thank goodness at least the engine frame seems solid.
Mark
Mark;
Yes, the frames are good and solid. Bowser made this kit a semi-articulated even though the prototype was rigid frame. This was done to allow the use of a tight minimum radius. A friend of mine had a brass model, (Westside?), of the, IIRC, Q4?. Anyway it was a PRR 4-4-6-4 duplex. It was rigid frame and needed a minimum radius of 38"! Beautiful locomotive none the less.
Carey
Keep it between the Rails
Alabama Central Homepage
Nara member #128
NMRA &SER Life member
yes it's semi articuated...Just seen the older kit on ebay went for 265.00!!!!!..Man my girlfriend got a deal on my train !!..I'll be posting pics of this train shortly..got it all together..going to run up to date motor in it.." mce_src="">
joseywales hers acouple of pics of it.." mce_src="">" mce_src="">
hers acouple of pics of it.." mce_src="">" mce_src="">
Robert ,I'd looked at two T1 Ho trains.. Both are riget frames..You are wright to set yours like you have it...I'd save some pics of a brass version that is a fixed frame setup..
there not offering that motor exchange anymore..wished they would.. but they told me to by the plate and soilder a wire on the other brush..you see they only had one wire soildered one one brush..heres what they but up in there site..HO - Other ProductsDCC Information
To isolate the motor brushes on an OLD Bowser DC-71 motor (Old DC-71 had only one wire and half the brush plate is brass) a new brush plate (#22193) required to replace the brass plate on the motor.
All our kits using the DC-71 motor have the DCC compatable motor. Skew wound armature, straight polished shaft, new magnet material, double insulated brushes for easy DCC.I like an O Scale DCC module for Bowser Steam Locos. They will fit in the tenders.
I got the train 3/4 put together..got to finish the hand rails and acouple of puttly things and she together..Robert I saw a brass tender version of this kit.. this that a newr kit of older?? mine is a 1998 kit..
Robt. LivingstonBowser sells a can motor for a switcher that costs about $8.00. Are two of these enough power for a Duplex? I don't know, but the price is right. It is a Mabuchi FK-130 motor, noted for high torque and power, at low cost. Unfortunately the shaft is undersized for the gears in rhe Duplex.
I have two of them powering a 2lb DD40X (the Bachmann unit I repowered with Athearn trucks a while back), and they hardly struggle when the wheels start slipping, so they should be enough for the T-1. The only real issue is the mounting of the motors and worms. Mounting brackets would have to be made, and special metal sleeving would have to be added to the shafts to get the worms on.
joseywalesAnother question..where can I find those up to date motors at? Bowser wants 45 dollars each for the brushless motors..,there can motors too as what I'd read..wondering if I could find them cleap in price some were else?Oh what glue did you used to put the brass parts on with?
Bowser used to have a deal where if you sent them your old motors, they'd send you the new ones for $15 each. I don't see it anymore, but I guess contacting them about it wouldn't hurt. If it's just the DCC isolation you're looking for, they sell insulated fiber brush plates (#22193) for about $1.50 each. Performance of the old and new motors isn't a whole lot different when they're tuned right, but the new ones do use a little less current to run.
And then there's the over-priced dual remotor kit from Accurate Lighting. It uses Mabuchi motors similar to the FK-130SH, so your 4-4-4-4 would run quietly and smoothly without drawing much power.
As for glue, I just used liquid super-glue for my T-1. It seems to be holding together real well so far.
You could try articulating the subframes to each other, or leave the front one loose and make the rear one solid with the boiler casting. The biggest problem was (I thought) that the point of attachment to the boiler is up so high. On real railroad equipment, it is low, just above the wheels, so the trucks can rock under the body. But, other guys have had success with the Bowser Duplex running as-is, in stock form, so I suggest you try to tune it up that way first, before you go modifying things.
As for motors, why replace them? Yours has two that run OK, no?
Bowser sells a can motor for a switcher that costs about $8.00. Are two of these enough power for a Duplex? I don't know, but the price is right. It is a Mabuchi FK-130 motor, noted for high torque and power, at low cost. Unfortunately the shaft is undersized for the gears in rhe Duplex.
I glued the brass detail parts on with Goop, also known a Shoo Goo. It is about the same as Walthers Goo, but is clear, and you can buy it at most hardware or big box builder's supply stores.
Robert I have an idea?? thought about last night.. I would improve your idea on the platting the bottom of those drivers soild...I could have it pin in the center/between the drivers..If I do that it can still have a semi articate and the drivers wont flop around like it was from factory..Another question..where can I find those up to date motors at? Bowser wants 45 dollars each for the brushless motors..,there can motors too as what I'd read..wondering if I could find them cleap in price some were else?Oh what glue did you used to put the brass parts on with?
Nice looking thing, isn't it? The body shape looks closer to reality than the BLI effort, in form and contour, in my opinion.
I don't recommend full rigidizing unless the curves on your railroad are much broader than 22" radius. I'm guessing 36"R as a minimum for a rigid chassis.
Only know that they were manufactured in PRR's Juniata Shops, Altoona, near the horseshoe curve.
yaaa its here!! Just got it today!!! Rober,I can see why you made a plate on the bottom of those drivers...Man they couldve done a better setup then this..Rober if the dont mind?Could you put the specks/measurment on that plat if you dont mine..I want to do that too.I'll try to post pics somtime tonight if possible,if not tomarrow for sure..
From all the specks on this Duplex and BLI Duplex,both have a 22"minum raidous...