Ok I've been away for awhile. Spring and summer I build a race R/C nitro boats.. Winter brings on the train bug.. Dugout the T-1 duplex.. now I want to update it.. putting in led lights repainting it to brunswick green and want to re-motor it witn one motor...just want to modernize it...
For anyone who might be interested, Bowser has temporarily restocked the 4-4-4-4 kits, as well as the mechanism kits for the Bachmann K-4, GS-4, and Niagara.
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I'm sorry about that dave...Planning on getting a softwear that you speak into and it types it out for you..I hate typing..Dave I've found pics of T-1 sitting to be scaped and a freight one.. It's sad too..' mce_src=''>' mce_src=''>' mce_src=''>' mce_src=''>
I think I got it fixed.. had to reline the motors on there rear ...Dave I'd found pics of the T-1 pulling freight....Most done that at there end times before hitting the scrap piles..now she's running like a well oiled machine.....no derailing eighter.. in order to have this train running on 18" bowser forgot too add to remove the ends inside and outsides trucks wheels on the tender..now she can fly around the curves with no proublems.. later on I'll get 22"+ curves...money is tight ....
Yeah, I had that problem with the rear motor. I used some thin plastic (like plastic bubble packaging) to make a small spacer/insulater between the motor and wheel. The only problem left that I have is the front truck derailing sometimes.
You can take the red Kaydee spacer washers and notch them so you can snap them over the axles and remove the side to side slop to keep the wheels from touching the motor. Mike
LHS mechanic and geniune train and antique garden tractor nut case!
Any of you guys ever had troubles with the motors arking off the drive wheels??? the wheels have alittle slop from side to side.. when the train runs it starts to hit the armmiture of the motors..any ideas to solve this proublem..??Just want to fix this for temp until I get a new motor to remotor and redrive line the T-1..
I'll be posting more pics and video of my T-1 tonight.." mce_src="">
Thats what I concittering for..Trying to sweet talk my girlfriend in buy me some passanger cars for christmas..Dont care what RR it is eighter.. I can repaint them to PRR colors and letter them...As it looks PRR is the most wanted ideam on ebay.. I was born and raised in PA...So that why I love PRR plus there awsome Prototype trains they built ...
joseywales heres the video.. http://www.youtube.com/user/misshydro#p/a/u/0/TjUcBT06Jpsmy girlfriend uploaded to her youtube..
heres the video.. http://www.youtube.com/user/misshydro#p/a/u/0/TjUcBT06Jpsmy girlfriend uploaded to her youtube..
Sweet. That thing has a nice bright headlight too, I'm surprised at how well it handles the sharp radii.
Ya you can find them,only in brass and that too much money for me...Want the S-1,S-2,Q-1,Q-2 and so forth..Hay how do I post a link??? I got the video but I had troubles in the past posting links...it pops up and say first select the tex that you want to make into a link...I'd copie the link and want to past but that saying pops up...need help please...
joseywales i want to start a Prr fleet.. all the proto type locos...thats my favorites like the T-1 ...
i want to start a Prr fleet.. all the proto type locos...thats my favorites like the T-1 ...
Same here. I may have to work with 2 scales to accomplish this goal however. A lot of these engines are near impossible to find in HO hopefully BLI and MTH will change that.
I was also looking at the high power flat can motor 1533 effiient power..works less then a 100 milliamps..he stated you can burn your finger tips trying to stop that motor..15mmx22mmx33mm long..i thing has shorter ones too... i'm going to try to video it and post it tonight.. having fun running it on an oval track..i'm going to have to invest in a snap track system...oh where can i find track layouts? my friend wants to do a big layout in his poll garage on top of his old office....he wants me to run my train at his place.. he has three grandsons too...plus my friend didnt know I was into trains too....i want to start a Prr fleet.. all the proto type locos...thats my favorites like the T-1 ...
Here are a couple more good coreless motor choices, since you say that's what you're looking for.
Faulhauber 22x24mmFaulhauber 23x42mmMaxon or Escap 26x42mm
Just remember that for the Bowser T-1, your motor should have no less than 2 oz-in of stall torque to be safe. Every motor I've mentioned has that much or more torque.
Another motor that may look good is the Maxon 22x32mm motor sold by the same guy. I've tried one and it's excellent, but it has a ridiculously high current draw under high load (about 3A at stall).
I'd thought of that but those flages bolt to the top of the boiler.. no way of bolting the bottom on it ..I rather try to keep it semi arttulated.. helps it go around the curves better..Dark ,My girlfriend been talking to moco about his motors.. thing of swiss escap or maxon motor or the faulhaber motors..thing of mount it at the rear of the last drivers ,were the old motor is at.. then run a unionversal joint then a shaft going threw one bracket with the worm gear and a mounting bracket at the end of the shaft.. both brackets will have brass bushings in them..the same setup as the UP challangers/Bigboys have..maybe buy the parts from bowser...http://bowser-trains.com/holocos/challenger/Challenger.pdf.. on the BLI T-1 motor is mounted at the center,but they cut off the two center wheel flanges to get there going threw the 22" radious curves..
Awsome paint and assembly work!!! I should hire you to paint my future Bowser kits! I can paint, but I cant paint like that. Bowser may lack a bit in the detail dept compared to the new plastic/diecast from China, but they will always win in the pulling war. Most guys putting the traction tire set on the BLI's are running into side rod issues on the I1 decapods, and they dont pull for crap without the tire. They should be been done in all diecast like the K4. I bet if you made the frame ridged, then took the two inside drivers and machined off the flanges, it would still run awsome and handle normal model RR curves much easier. Mike
A T-1 tender with horn-hook couplers on an 18" radius will definitely drag just about any car off the track, so I think I can pretty much guarantee that that's your problem.
When you remotor it, will the motor be in the rear, or in the center? I know of a few that should do the job real well, but it might run a little bit under prototype speeds since they all run slower than the Bowser motor. All are just as powerful as Bowser's motors.
Canon EN22 Just about the best you can get. Single 2mm shaftIgarashi Used by BLI, Rivarossi, Lionel, and a few others. Double 2mm shaftCanon coreless They don't get much better than this. Single 1.5mm shaft
One thing about the coreless is it needs more careful handling than the others (I accidentily snapped the shaft off of one, and had to get a replacement motor). But once it's installed, it's every bit as reliable and durable as the rest of the can motors out there.
Thats what I'm subspecting.. running a 18" radious curve..bowser has it on there manual index about it can run on a 18" radious curve after you do two quick mods to it...I'd made a temp pivot coupler bracket that will move with the freight car...its only temp until I get some 22" radious curve tracks...I'm still planning to remotor it with the new can flywheel motor run it like the challanger/bigboy shaft system...it will work... i'll post the video in a day or so...I did get the price on the MTH smoke unit..will get one for them too...
No..I have both horn style couplers...the freight car coupler is mounted to the truck.. the tender is mounted to ther frame...the freight car derails off the track when the tender and freight car starts to go into the curve...just got done running the T-1 for and hour only having one motor in it and it runs flawlessly.. runs like a swis watch..
Are you force coupling a horn-hook style coupler to a knuckle style? That could be your problem if you are. Or is the freight car coupler truck mounted? Truck mounted couplers can be drag their casr off the tracks much easier than frame mounted couplers.
I ment you say it makes my freight car derail..sorry for the miss understanding..as soon as the car and tender starts into the curve the freight car derails at the tender..coupler are both at the same hights..using the old coupler..need to get one more kd coupler to hook on the freight car.. have one for the tender that came with the train..
What brand of couplers? Do the coupler heights between the tender and freight car match?
HELP!!!!!!!!! I'm having proublem in keeping my fratecar coupled to my tender of my T-1....tryed loosing the screw and tighting it.... it uncouples in the begining off the curves...
where did you get the coal load from? I did get a price from MTH on the smoke unit...she told me there no diegram on the challanger..wanted to see what there drive unit setup looks like..maybe like I said run that challanger drive system in my T1?why have a train without smoke?Might paint the outedge of the wheels white like I see in some pics of the T1 plus the silver bearing covers on the trucks....Did anyone see bowser website? Said there not making anymore loco kits any more!
Actually, mine's brunswick green. It's almost completely black, but you can see a hint of green if you look at it just right (and with the right lighting). Yours is looking very good! Will you be adding a coal load?
looks like you painted your train black too,darth santa fe.." mce_src="">" mce_src="">
When your a bodyman/painter we want somthing old to look like new again...Thanks for the commit... but I havent putting models together for alongtime ....but been mainly working on R/C nitro boats
I can't get over what a fine paint job that is. And this is your first engine you put together? Talent comes natural to some people I guess, I could never dream of accomplishing a project like that.