Hello I got my first brass loco it's a N.Y.C s-1 class it's made by Kaw valley scale models. I got it at a show this past weekend. It needs a gear and I have no idea were to start. I am going to post some pic's it is the white gear in the photo.
the worm gear drives the brown one and the white one drives the gears on the drivers and it fit's in here
and here are some shots of the loco
the spec's on the gear are plastic,12 teeth,5.07mm long x 6.00mm OD x 2.28mm ID. I think I can get the gear from NSWL but not sure what I am looking for. Thanks Frank
I hope you got a good deal on it! At least it will make a nice looking static display.
Its a little hard to tell from the top photo, but is there a tooth missing out of either of the gears? I'm just wondering about the need to replace them. You might be able to get the individual gears from NWSL, but I'd take calipers and measure them exactly.
Nice looking loco, and unusual drive mechanism, at least IMO. Hope you can get it working.
Tom
Tom View my layout photos! http://s299.photobucket.com/albums/mm310/TWhite-014/Rio%20Grande%20Yuba%20River%20Sub One can NEVER have too many Articulateds!
Hello Tom the white gear is split and just spins on the shaft. I tried to glue it but no luck. The gears are two piece's. Would that gear have a specific name or should I go by size and teeth? I paid 75$ for the loco. And would like to get it running or moving the motor sounds good and spins nice and freely. Thanks Frank
Here in Logan, UT we have a business that specializes in drivetrain parts; there may be a similar business near you. Ours is Motion Industries and I went there with a worn out gear from a Rockwell planer - I had no idea of the education I would receive!
They measured the gear and looked in catalogs - I swear, there are millions of gears available off the shelf at their suppliers! As it turns out, my gear was custom made so they couldn't help me, but I bet yours is standard and a replacement is available. I suggest that you hit the yellow pages and go to a machine shop or a similar drive train supply place and see what they tell you. By the way, I'm willing to take your gear to our local business and try for a replacement - PM me if you are interested.
Even if all they tell you is the specs for your gear, you can search online and probably find one. If you have a choice between metal and plastic, go metal (unless there's an electrical reason for plastic). Also, if you end up with plastic, buy a few extras.
Finally, if the gear is available but the hole is not the right size, buy it anyway and have a machinist ream it or install a bushing. By the time you get it running, you may spend another $100, but then you'll have a sweet brass loco for $175 total cost - a bargain in my book.
Good luck!
Phil, I'm not a rocket scientist; they are my students.
That combination of two gears is usually called a double-reduction gear. You should contact NorthWest Short Line directly. They'll need to know the outside diameter (over the teeth) and the pitch diameter (the point at which the gears actually mesh), plus the number of teeth, the diameter of the shaft on which it runs and if it's a press- or slip fit (yours should be a press fit), and the thickness of the gear. In addition, the material from which the gear is made and that of the gear which it drives is important, as the drive gear should be of a harder material than the driven gear. As the gear that needs to be replaced is not driven directly, you may have a situation where it would be prudent to also replace the axle gear at the same time - this would allow you to use a brass gear to replace the split one, and a plastic one for the axle gear. This would be necessary anyway if you can't get an exact replacement for the split gear, and would likely give you longer gear life and better gear mesh. Incidently, the worm gear on your loco is the brown one beside the split gear while that screw-like gear on the motor shaft is simply a worm.
Wayne
I would contact the manufacturer. They usually have some spare parts from a run or can find out if the producer has them. It may take some time to get it. It took me over 6 months to get a gear for an Alco models PRR P5A but I did get it.
Looks like this is a common problem with this loco, NWSL has two replacement gears for this locomotive.
#1016-6 26Tx6mm OD x 2.4
#1062-6 12Tx6mm OD x 2.4
I would guess the second number would be the small one that you need for repairs.
If a remember correctly Kaw Valley only imported this loco back in the 70's and finding them would be nigh on impossible.
Rick
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Hello I would like to thank everyone for all the help. I did get a hold of NWSL and they are sending the gear out this week. All they had in stock are brass gear's. I think that should be ok? When I get it back together I will post some photos of it.
Rick you are right I have been unable to find any thing on the company. I found uncle Dave's list of brass trains and he had them listed. But all it said was ca.1965. I would like to find out more about them if I can. Does anyone know were to find info on them? Thanks for all the help with this loco Frank
I like the looks of the S1,'s. They remind me of one of the locomotives in RRT3.
I have bought NWSL paper documentation in the past and they include a lot of info on gear/motor planning and include templates of their different motors for size comparison. Their website is not the easiest to use. The worm on the motor connects to a worm gear on an idler. The next two gears are spur gears. Spur gears and worm gears have a different cut. There are also reverse worms and matching worm gears. NWSL recommends nylon to brass gear mesh.
Some locos only have a worm on the motor and worm gear on the driver axle.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
Hello well I got the gear last Saturday and got it together did some running on Sunday. I think with a little break in and some fine tuning this will be a nice little loco. It still has the old open frame motor but runs good for it's age. I would like to thank everyone for there help Frank
Congrats on getting her running, nothing wrong with open frame motors, all my PFM brass steam engines have thier original Pittman open frame motors in them, they all draw under 3/4 amp under a full load. Mike
LHS mechanic and geniune train and antique garden tractor nut case!
Try A.B. charles in Pitts. Pa. they are very good with brass parts should have the info in the back of model railroader.Good luck,. Jim
Nothing wrong with plastic or delrin gears, usualy run quieter and that is whats in all your newer models. The problem comes from when the plastic isnt "aged" long enough, put it on a metal shaft and the plastic shrinks as it ages, the shaft doesnt shrink so it splits. Many older brass diesels had this issue, along with Athearns USRA 2-8-2's, early P2K diesels and I have seen a couple old blue box Athearn SD9's do this. It helps keep NWSL in business replacing these gears. You would think the model companies would rectifiy this issue after all the years of experience. Seems the Chinese dont care, after all, its only business.