Autobus Prime Hansel Buy all new #5 Kadees, and probably a bunch of the high offset Kadee couplers too. There has been many threads about other types of couplers, but it seems that most of the modelers swear by Kadees and nothing else. Just remember to get the coupler height gage. Depending on what you have, you might have to do some modifications to your gear boxes. I have some old Athearn tank cars and had to glue the bottoms to the frame. Other rolling stock, I had to cut out or cut off the original gear box and glue on or screw on the Kadee gear box that comes with all of their couplers. You can even buys these couplers in bulk. H: Those tank cars are a pain in the caboose, because the actual coupler cover overhangs the screws that hold it on, and it flexes, allowing the coupler to sag, then slip out. I drilled the cover and mounting post and installed tiny screws (00, I think), which solved the problem. I tend to agree with people here that prefer Kadees, but mostly because they uncouple better, and because they take a low coupling force; you don't have to SLAM the cars together (this may not be realistic, depending on your prototype. ). My trains are short, 5-10 cars, and the plastic ones are adequately strong to stay coupled, if they're adjusted to the right height, so they don't bend and slip out. I recommend "Lincoln Weights" for light cars. You can buy them at the bank. A roll of fifty costs half a dollar. A different brand is sold in Canada.
Hansel Buy all new #5 Kadees, and probably a bunch of the high offset Kadee couplers too. There has been many threads about other types of couplers, but it seems that most of the modelers swear by Kadees and nothing else. Just remember to get the coupler height gage. Depending on what you have, you might have to do some modifications to your gear boxes. I have some old Athearn tank cars and had to glue the bottoms to the frame. Other rolling stock, I had to cut out or cut off the original gear box and glue on or screw on the Kadee gear box that comes with all of their couplers. You can even buys these couplers in bulk.
Buy all new #5 Kadees, and probably a bunch of the high offset Kadee couplers too. There has been many threads about other types of couplers, but it seems that most of the modelers swear by Kadees and nothing else. Just remember to get the coupler height gage. Depending on what you have, you might have to do some modifications to your gear boxes. I have some old Athearn tank cars and had to glue the bottoms to the frame. Other rolling stock, I had to cut out or cut off the original gear box and glue on or screw on the Kadee gear box that comes with all of their couplers. You can even buys these couplers in bulk.
H:
Those tank cars are a pain in the caboose, because the actual coupler cover overhangs the screws that hold it on, and it flexes, allowing the coupler to sag, then slip out. I drilled the cover and mounting post and installed tiny screws (00, I think), which solved the problem.
I tend to agree with people here that prefer Kadees, but mostly because they uncouple better, and because they take a low coupling force; you don't have to SLAM the cars together (this may not be realistic, depending on your prototype. ). My trains are short, 5-10 cars, and the plastic ones are adequately strong to stay coupled, if they're adjusted to the right height, so they don't bend and slip out.
I recommend "Lincoln Weights" for light cars. You can buy them at the bank. A roll of fifty costs half a dollar. A different brand is sold in Canada.
Love the Lincoln Weights idea. I haven't seen them at my LHS yet. I use nuts, the type that a bolt is supposed to go through, as weights.
My experience with uncoupling are a bit different. I've got a variety of knuckle type couplers, basically whatever came with the loco or car but the stuff I've been converting from truck to body mount has all gotten Kadee #5. My only uncoupling problems are due to uneven trackwork but I do take time to match coupler height and trip pin clearance. I don't have a height guage, I match couplers to my locos which all have matching coupler height. I use 2 utility knife blades for trip pin clearance (about .050 inch). Using NMRA standards is fine if you belong to a club or share rolling stock with other modelers but for a lone wolf as long as everything on your layout matces your standard then ok.
Short version: as stated before make sure your couplers are all the same height and the trip pins don't catch on the track, if there is an area where uncoupling is more frequent inspect the track.
For cheap weights go to your local tire dealer, a 5 gallon bucket of weight can be anywhere from free to maybe $5, then sell the extra to your friends...
Modeling the Cleveland and Pittsburgh during the PennCentral era starting on the Cleveland lakefront and ending in Mingo junction
HO Brian Wow, you know. All of this buying new to replace what it came with, measuring with a gauge, changing out trucks…. Really makes me think harder about what brand of rolling stock I buy to avoid these problems in the first place. You know, do it right the first time type of thinking! Thanks, Brian
Wow, you know. All of this buying new to replace what it came with, measuring with a gauge, changing out trucks…. Really makes me think harder about what brand of rolling stock I buy to avoid these problems in the first place. You know, do it right the first time type of thinking!
Thanks,
Brian
My understanding is that Kadee won't cut deals with manufacturers (reduce the price x amt if you buy 1000 couplers or 10000 or whatever) so since the Kadee patent has expired, manufacturers figure it is cheaper to make their own "knock off" versions. So with a few exceptions (like Kadee's own freight cars) you generally aren't going to see cars coming from the factory with Kadees.
HO cars come with a standard coupler box that goes back to the X2F days of 50 years ago or so, and the Kadee No.5 is designed to fit that box. If you're going to convert your cars to Kadees, anyone that has a coupler box in place with probably take a no.5 with no problem. Once in a while you might need a special shank or an elevated or lowered coupler head, but that's probably more a problem with engines than cars. I must have around 150 freight cars and maybe one or two required something other than a regular Kadee 5.
Thanks wjxtix,
I will have to order a batch of #5's and a height gauge. What you have said is eco'ed many times on this thread. Thanks for replying! All of this help has, well, helped!