I built my staging yard and lift bridge today! It's really solid, with brass door hinges, quality hardwood for the bridge and staging tracks. I added a fence to keep trains from taking the dive, made out of old brass flextrack. I read about that tip somewhere on the TRAINS.Com forums.The tracks don't extend as far as I'd wanted, since I didn't buy enough shelf wood, but it's easily long enough for 10 car trains.The bridge is aligned with dowel "teeth" on the bottom of the bridge that fit into holes in the benchwork. I rounded the edges of the teeth with a sanding block so that they would correct for warping and expansion, and force the bridge into alignment. When the bridge is down, they keep it right where I want it, so I have no worries at all about rail alignment.Here's my amazingly complicated and expensive way to keep the bridge up when not in use! NOTE: This does not hold any weight at all, since the bridge leans against the wall. This is just to control sway.Questions and comments welcome...
I did one install of the weight kits to one of my existing 85' flats, and man does it make a difference. The car sits lower, looks and performs better. However using the weight kit made it have to take larger radius, since it won't go around the 18" ones I have, might make it around 22".
Vincent
Wants: 1. high-quality, sound equipped, SD40-2s, C636s, C30-7s, and F-units in BN. As for ones that don't cost an arm and a leg, that's out of the question....
2. An end to the limited-production and other crap that makes models harder to get and more expensive.
Weathered the caboose this weekend, but wasn't able to get the final product into WPF, so next week. Link for pix is in my sig.Also FINALLY got the "TSRy Preview Part 2" up. Again, link for UTube is in my sig...
I only have to survive for 3 MORE HOURS AND 15 MINUTES!!! Two exams tomorrow, and we end at 11:15. Geometry and Spanish, both easy.And I just realized, I can drive in 1 year and 1 day! We take Driver's Ed 1st quarter next year, and I get my permit in June. Watch out! HAHAHA!
LOL. Now, I'm studying for my spanish exam (Yo estudio por el examen de Espanol [I was practicing!]). http://www.glencoe.com/sec/worldlanguages/spanish/buenviajelevel1_2003/index.html I was playing the chapter games. They're kinda fun!
My Model Railroad: Tri State RailMy Photos on Flickr: FlickrMy Videos on Youtube: YoutubeMy Photos on RRPA: RR Picture Archives
Normally I don't like to double post, but...BUMP!!!C'mon guys, page 3???
Just cheking in here. Haven't been on the forums for a LONG time! What's up guys?
Its been awhile since I've seen you... The fact that we're friends on facebook doesn't count.
Alex
Hey Andy, guess I wasn't a member back when you were on here. I'm guessing you've got facebook?
Sawyer Berry
Clemson University c/o 2018
Building a protolanced industrial park layout
Yea it has been a while hasn't it? Now that I'm on summer vacation i have some time for some modelling. With help from ma homies at my LHS I've decided to kitbash my B-man 2-10-2 since the guy that would've done it has a lot in his hands right now. I guess, in the end, it's for the best. I just hope i don't break anything! I don't have to wait for parts, I already have all of them. It just so happens that another regular customer at the store just finished the exact same project that I am undertaking so I will be able to get some assistance from him. I hope to get started on that soon. The true line trains CNR northern that I ordered around 1 1/2 years ago still hasn't materialized. In fact, I've on;y been able to find some computer-generated images and some unrevealing pics of the pre-production model. I hope that in the end it's worth the wait.
So what's up with you guys?
And yes, I do have facebook.
You using MBE parts?
The only MBE part that I'm using is the triangle number board. The feedwater heater system, bell and headlight assembly is cal-scale and the vestibule cab is precision scale, i think.
Welcome, Andy! What scale are you modeling in?
That would be HO scale
Andy! I guess I wasn't here before you left.
Andy Fekete That would be HO scale
I decided that over the summer, I'll work on 2201. I'll get a decoder (D13SRJ) for it, install it (a new feat for me), and add NON-operating ditch lights. I realized that my current system doesn't support programming, so that'll have to wait. But I hope to get away from E-Z Command (and E-Z Track), and eventually I'll probably get a Zephyr. But once that happens, all I'll have to do is connect and wire the ditch lights (when I install them I'll put the bulbs and wiring in, but just not attach them to the decoder.I'll also get around to painting 4100 and making REAL decals for it, instead of lettering it with a Sharpie. I might keep the cab numbering because it works and it's not half bad (it's printed on regular paper and attached using double sided tape and a glue stick (yes, you DO need both for it to work).
I also need other stuff for, well... other stuff. But there's a train show in August that I REALLY hope to go to (haven't been to one in probably about 10 years, not my fault!). And then in October there's some "Commuter Modelers Meet and Train Expo" or something at Rutgers (New Brunswick) that I REALLY REALLY (REALLY) want to go to because the guy from Island Model Works will be there and I can pick up some Comets and maybe some MultiLevels and a PL42AC (depending on how much money I pick up between now and then, but I need [yes, I NEED] to get an iTouch soon [READ: NOW, iPod died last week]).So I probably won't be able to buy anything for a while, but I'm getting a job (actually two, I already have one [kinda], but I would like to get another), and birthday money will pay for a good part of the iTouch [I already got $75, and probably more, so I'll probably need to pay for the last $200-250 for it]. But I didn't have to pay for my new enV Touch that I got last night (Thank you birthday and free two-year upgrade!). But anyway, so yeah...
Joe, I'm assuming you mean the Horribly Oversized scale?
I model in Normal scale. ain't done any detailing of my locos yet though.............
As to my layout status, until I can get the track for my next layout, I'm going to make that diorama layout I've got my permanent layout on my 4x8 table when I move into my next room.
I'm also working on a diorama, got a long way to go on the scenery though.
When I did the WRS GP9m, I removed all molded on details from the front, then added Details West Plows, and MU Hoses, slightly modified MBE CP Early Geep ditch lights, Details Associates Trainline Hoses, and a new drop step.
I think you can tell which is the new loco and which is the old, and which looks better!
Sawyer, I think you're the only one here that in N scale.
GG, the one on the right looks kind of pudgy.
I found a can of rust-colored spray paint in the garage, so I've shot a few sets of metal wheels with it to see how it comes out. Looks good so far. I've also got all 5 of my 85' flats put together with the weight upgrades. Now to get rid of the undecorated ones.
So, the one you worked on would be the one on the left? (the one that's about to tip over) It looks good!
In all seriousness though, good job. This project earns my sacred stamp of approval.
The one on the right is the trainline, and the ine on the left if the P2k. The P2k has much better paint and a scale hood.
The old trainline was sold, and I'm pressuring Tyler into buying a fleet of GP40-2Ls for road trains!
Here was the road power last time I was over, all painted by meeeeeee!
Thats some nice painting! Is this at some sort of MRR club or is this at your or your friend's place?
They were painted for Tyler (TrainManTy) who has been pretty quiet lately...
Vincent, I think that's the case, unfortunately......
I think I'm gonna go nuts. I've had some paint on order, and a part for my airbrush, idk when they're gonna get in, I'm calling my LHS monday. Which means, even if they come in, I won't be able to get them unless they're already in, because we'll be in the Blue Ridge Mountains from Tuesday to some tiem that weekend. So it looks like I'll be starting those locos in July. I'll paint the GP9 first, I messed up the sill on one side because some excess glue fell over it when I was in a hurry, and I scraped it off a couple hours later, so it damaged the detail, but it can still be used in operation and also the other side is able to have pics taken. I'm gonna end up getting a new shell for it someday though.
Yup, I'm right here... There's several more locos painted in WRS colors, but since they were painted and decaled in two days, (paint arrived on Thursday, ops session was Saturday) they don't look as good. Also the Phase II paint isn't nearly as cool as Phase I.
1701 (the fat one on the right) is the one Alex detailed. But nothing can fix the fat hood...
GG: Thanks for the tips for the GP9! Nice job detailing, even though it is obese
I started on 2201 yesterday. I can't really do much on the detailing, since I don't have any parts yet (haven't ordered them). But I removed the horns (I'll add two Nathan K5s, one on each end) and started filing the frame to make room for the ditch lights.I've referenced David Popp's article on how he added his to a SOO SD60, I believe (it was in MR about a year ago, IIRC). Similar to the Athearn model used in the article, there are little "wings" around the coupler pocket. You have to file these away to make room for the wiring. There is also a taller "second nose" on the frame that fits inside the actual nose. I will also have to shave this down, either on top or on the sides (not sure which yet, but probably the sides. Then the rest SHOULD be fairly straightforward.
Did you know that 35% of all HO scale GP9m locomotives are obese? That's from a new NMRA study.
All kidding aside now...
Joe: Good luck with ditch lights! I need to add them to several locomotives in my roster, so if you could keep us updated it would be helpful.
Since I plan to replace most of my locos this winter when Atlas comes out with their GP40-2LW units, I only need to add ditch lights to the units I plan on keeping. That'll be 9423 (GP18 assigned to the local), 8569 (GP7 on a transfer job), and 1402 (SDP35, most likely a helper unit. Then I'll have 4 GP40-2LW locos on both manifests and a Genset (also coming out this winter by Atlas) in the yard.
I'll need to sell most of my current locos though... 2306 (U23B), 3243 (CSX U23B), 5817 (GP7), and 2752 (GP30) will all have to go to finance the GP40-2LWs and Genset.
So in late winter you'll see some new WRS locos... Jordan, Alex, and I are still working on the paint scheme.
Thanks! Maybe once I'm done, I'll post a tutorial on NTRES or something.
I was looking at those Gensets a while back, but couldn't find a reason to justify having one. Now since TSRy owns the line, I can have one. I need something for the Watchinson switcher (not to be confused with the local, which will have a geep). Currently, I have 2201, but it will eventually go into MOW service. The SW1500s (1300-1302) are stored dead, and is retired and used for parts. So basically, I currently have nothing for a switcher. Maybe the state can fund some money for a green switcherAlso, I have a GP30 on my roster, but it is one of the (many) locos that I don't have a model for. We'll see once you get ready to sell it.
No Alex, 1402 is staying... It might be a helper (although my sidings are now too short for helpers to be actually needed) or it might just sit at the engine terminal. Eventually I'm going to ditch the black nose though. Visibility of the front really suffers with all black! That's why the Phase I scheme includes a B&M white stripe. Red will work better on PII locos.
I weathered my new Walthers Airslide hopper this week... I used a mix of paint washes, fine-grit sandpaper (for fading the lettering), and pastels. The graffiti was brush painted on.BEFORE:AFTER:Questions and comments welcome, as usual.
Ty, why would 5817 and 2752 be going to scrap?
Joe, good luck on ditch lights. If you use indiviual bulbs for them what they are so that I can get some for beacons.
I maganged to get around to putting that 2nd-generation EMD sound decoder into my SD40-2. I thought of hooking up the beacon that is installed on it but haven't came up with idea I could do with what I have on hand. Because of where it sits and the fact athearn uses 2 mini-bulbs instead of a light board it would be very tricky to get it to light. Fiber optics and MV lenes could work, but it'd still be tricky. I also have to ger resistors since the soundtraxx's light function output is 12v, which I found out the hard way and lost 2. I ordered 2 extra sets and will use the others for beacons in my U30C and SD45s, and maybe for the mars light on my 2 non-sound SD24s if there are enough left.
They wouldn't be scrapped, just sold off to another railroad, probably Merrimack & Souhegan
They really don't fit in with the general operating scheme, and WRS will need money to fund the purchase of 4 GP40s, and a Genset.