7j43k wrote:You asked:It doesn't appear to me to offer any SUBSTANTIAL improvements over any of the previous methods. There are some ways where it is very simple and straightforward--that's the good part. There also appear to be some potential problems or, at least, time-wasters. SO, see first sentence. If you are committed to this method, I think we would all like to hear how it works out as you solve some of the various problems either mentioned here or discovered later. Definitely, thanks for sharing this new idea. Ed
You asked:
It doesn't appear to me to offer any SUBSTANTIAL improvements over any of the previous methods. There are some ways where it is very simple and straightforward--that's the good part. There also appear to be some potential problems or, at least, time-wasters. SO, see first sentence. If you are committed to this method, I think we would all like to hear how it works out as you solve some of the various problems either mentioned here or discovered later.
Definitely, thanks for sharing this new idea.
Ed
electrolove wrote:Ed,Thanks a lot for you kind words. I will continue thinking outside the box with...PIPE ROADBED VERSION 2I have a real bad headache right now. I always get that when I'm very excited.This is version 2 of the pipe roadbed method. I used masking tape on the underside of the pipes. Then I added cement between the pipes!!! You don't need to cut all these masonite pieces anymore. Just glue cork roadbed on top of the cement. The cement will not move at all because the round shape of the pipes will no allow it. My cement was not fresh so I got lumps in it. I will try to even out the surface by adding a thin layer of spackle. I think that will be very easy to do because you use the top of the pipes as a support when you even out the spackle. I can asure you that this roadbed will not move in any direction. It must be the strongest roadbed ever... The only thing I need to do is to change the distance between the pipes. It must be a little more when you use cement between the pipes. But I used the same distance in this experiment. Maybe it's possible to join the pipes with smaller pipes instead of wood dowels. Then you can still use the pipes for track power. One cable in each pipe, no visible cables.
7j43k wrote:As someone who gets paid actual money to put wires inside of pipes, I would recommend against doing it in this case. It'll take a LOT of time and for no particular reason. As an alternative, I'd recommend tying the wires to the bottom of the pipes with tie wraps. Or string, that's certainly cheaper. Ed
As someone who gets paid actual money to put wires inside of pipes, I would recommend against doing it in this case. It'll take a LOT of time and for no particular reason. As an alternative, I'd recommend tying the wires to the bottom of the pipes with tie wraps. Or string, that's certainly cheaper.
I really don't see how putting the track power in the pipe (making it conduit) would be all that practical, as you have to run feeders up to the track wire. The tidyess factor is very appealing, but it would end up being more trouble than it would be worth.
Using the pipe as subroadbed does look interesting, though.
I agree.
Edit: And now I see Mark is on the same page too.
I see future issues with modifications, repairs, troubleshooting, etc. Also, if using wood dowels to join sections of pipe does one then have to drill out the center of the dowel for the wire?
7j43k wrote: As someone who gets paid actual money to put wires inside of pipes, I would recommend against doing it in this case. It'll take a LOT of time and for no particular reason. As an alternative, I'd recommend tying the wires to the bottom of the pipes with tie wraps. Or string, that's certainly cheaper.
Ed's correct. I can't imagine a better way to make access to the wires more difficult than to run them in a pipe. One would need to cut sizeable holes on the bottoms or sides of the pipes to give access to where the jumper wires connect the rails to the bus line. This would be a bother to do and could seriously weaken the structure.
Mark
Hi,
I looked at Byggmax, they got them in 3 meter lengths for just under 10 SEK. That would be even cheaper. One thing you don't get with this is the actual roadbed since you still have to get the cork. So in total, for me, the spline is probably cheaper, but more work. So I'll be considering your method when it gets time to expand the layout. This method looks FAST!
Magnus
Lillen wrote:Interesting idea. How much does the pipe cost and where do you get it? Magnus
Interesting idea. How much does the pipe cost and where do you get it?
grayfox1119 wrote:Thta is a unique idea EL, this is how progress is made in any field, by thinking outside the box, by not being afraid to try something knew, or imporving upon another's idea/s.One think that came to my mind EL, what a great way to run TRACK POWER!! Just run your wiring right inside the pipes and feed up through holes in the pipe where needed. I don't see a problem with turnouts either, as these can be fed up past the pipes or inbetween the pipes with little difficulty.
Thta is a unique idea EL, this is how progress is made in any field, by thinking outside the box, by not being afraid to try something knew, or imporving upon another's idea/s.
One think that came to my mind EL, what a great way to run TRACK POWER!! Just run your wiring right inside the pipes and feed up through holes in the pipe where needed. I don't see a problem with turnouts either, as these can be fed up past the pipes or inbetween the pipes with little difficulty.
jddav1 wrote:This looks like a very interesting method. Some day I would like to try it. I am wondering how you connect one length of pipe to the next length ? Also how do you mold in a turnout? Instead of using short masonite cross pieces then adding roadbed on top of that, why not use "cookie cutter" masonite or masonite strips with frequent cross cut making it flexable right on the PVC pipe then putting cork roadbed on that? Just an idea. Jeff
jbinkley60 wrote: I am wondering about under the track items like switch machines, magnets and occupancy sensors ? I am not sure how easy they will be to work with but if comparing to spline roadbed, the challenges would be about the same.
I am wondering about under the track items like switch machines, magnets and occupancy sensors ? I am not sure how easy they will be to work with but if comparing to spline roadbed, the challenges would be about the same.
Engineer Jeff NS Nut Visit my layout at: http://www.thebinks.com/trains/
Very interesting idea. The chief advantage I see is that the pipe comes in long pieces so that you can quickly lay long sections. Chief disadvantage I see is cutting and attaching all those masonite cross pieces. Let us know how it holds up over time.
Enjoy
Paul
Mark, you may be right. I don't know, and wouldn't until I experimented with a length to see how it went.
-Crandell
Very interseting! Talk about thinking outside the box. Please keep us informed on your progress and results.
I'm likin' it, Electro, and I look forward to seeing and hearing more about your experiment.
If you used smaller OD PVC piping, you could lay more side-by-side and achieve the tighter curved radii. And the PVC would definitely have a vertical transition advantage over the wood spline, as Johnnny pointed out.
Tom
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Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Electrolove, I find this to be a very interesting concept. Its construction is much like spine roadbed but without the cutting and gluing of wood or masonite strips. The curves can be formed freehand instead of having to be figured out on paper and recreated in wood. Even easements, vertical or horizontal would be easy with the flexibility of PVC. Unlike wood or masonite, the PVC pipe is flexible in both the horizontal and vertical planes.
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Curves and grades are no problem if the pipe are used as is.
markpierce wrote: selector wrote: I hope it turns out well for you, EL. If I were doing this I think I would seriously experiment with cutting the tubing down the middle, lengthwise, and fastening the halves to the frame so that they each faced outward...viewed from the ends, they would look like this )(, except they would be very close to true halves. Not sure yet how I'd affix those shapes to the bench cross members, but the idea, if it can be done, would be to have the scenery base abut the inner recesses of the tubing that face outward toward the scenery. I am not sure if hot glue will suffice as an anchor on smooth and concave plastic tubing surfaces. Maybe it will be just fine.-CrandellWhat about curves? They will place tension and compression forces on the pipes. If cut in half, I'd bet the half-pipes would want to twist.....So far, I don't see much advantage in using pipe for subtrack, at least not enough to try it.Mark
selector wrote: I hope it turns out well for you, EL. If I were doing this I think I would seriously experiment with cutting the tubing down the middle, lengthwise, and fastening the halves to the frame so that they each faced outward...viewed from the ends, they would look like this )(, except they would be very close to true halves. Not sure yet how I'd affix those shapes to the bench cross members, but the idea, if it can be done, would be to have the scenery base abut the inner recesses of the tubing that face outward toward the scenery. I am not sure if hot glue will suffice as an anchor on smooth and concave plastic tubing surfaces. Maybe it will be just fine.-Crandell
I hope it turns out well for you, EL. If I were doing this I think I would seriously experiment with cutting the tubing down the middle, lengthwise, and fastening the halves to the frame so that they each faced outward...viewed from the ends, they would look like this )(, except they would be very close to true halves. Not sure yet how I'd affix those shapes to the bench cross members, but the idea, if it can be done, would be to have the scenery base abut the inner recesses of the tubing that face outward toward the scenery. I am not sure if hot glue will suffice as an anchor on smooth and concave plastic tubing surfaces. Maybe it will be just fine.
What about curves? They will place tension and compression forces on the pipes. If cut in half, I'd bet the half-pipes would want to twist.....So far, I don't see much advantage in using pipe for subtrack, at least not enough to try it.
Cardboard strips attached to the PVC pipe or masonite with hotglue. Masking tape on top of the cardboard. Then a mix made of 2 part cement and 1 part vermiculite as the scenery base.
gandydancer19 wrote:What are you planning to use for a scenery base? And how do you plan to attach it to the pipe?
Elmer.
The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.
(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.