Hey guys
I have been working on a patched gondola from Burlington, and is patched for Burlington Northern. The patch is supposed to be hand painted I tried my best...
Pictures
Also Yesterday driving home from Pennsylvania I caught this CSX unit #7694 on 895 leaving the yard in baltimore with a unit coal train. Its a little blurry
Tjsingle
Elmer.
The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.
(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.
I going to get some more dullcote soon, ran out :( And i might try the gel pen :)
Not trying to be rude -
But what did you do to that gon? The different paints and such really don't appear to be weathering, it looks like it hit the inside of a DuPont factory.
And FWIW - When the prototypes cover other markings, the generally acepted practice is to make sure the other markings / notes on the car are visible as well.
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GraniteRailroader wrote:But what did you do to that gon? The different paints and such really don't appear to be weathering, it looks like it hit the inside of a DuPont factory.
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I think it looks pretty decent. I wonder if some weathering powders would be nice--sort of filthisizing it.
Ed
Sawyer Berry
Clemson University c/o 2018
Building a protolanced industrial park layout
I've got to agree with GraniteRailroader on this one. Before undetaking such a project you need to study some prototype pics. I've been railfanning and modeling the BN for at least 30 years and have never seen a BN car with hand stenciling like that, especially one in revenue service. Even the MOW cars I've seen have not had hand stenciling. Some thing like that is more common on small short lines or industrial roads, not on Class 1 roads.
Here's an example of what you were after:
http://www.billselleck.net/Images/galleries/jerrypics/Qgon.jpg
This my picture taken in 1997 - that's 27 years after the merger and the gon is STILL in CB&Q paint with CB&Q reporting marks. It's well weathered, but still legible.
Tjsingle, spending some time studying prototype pics, read up on various techniques on such places as MTW and other websites. Practice, practice, practice. Contrary to what others here will say or do, there is more to weathering then simply splashing some brown paint on a railcar with a brush. Study and practice. You can do better.
jeffrey-wimberly wrote:I've seen some gons that look just like that. Like somebody just threw gallon sized paint balloons at them.
I've seen some gons that look just like that. Like somebody just threw gallon sized paint balloons at them.
You might find cars that look like they have been hit with paint balloons or RPGs.
If a railroad was going to take the time to paint on new reporting marks, the other stencils would have atleast been made legible as well. The FRA doesn't take to kindly to not having the appropriate marks on cars.
A car that survived the 1967-1977 period should also have an ACI (automated car identification) label as well as consolidated lube stencil plates. You can get those from Microscale.
While you're at it, you may want to see what kind of "paint-out" decals you can get. For example, Microscale makes the Conrail "CR" that represents when the prototype "kitbashed" the distinctive PENN CENTRAL stencils into CR.
I looked through Fallen Flags' photos trying to find a prototype photo that would back up what you've done. I couldn't find one.
To paraphrase JK and Granite, if you're looking for realism, you really can't go wrong by using prototype photos. In my recent weathering thread, I used probably a dozen prototype photos of the same class of cars. I made sure even my rust streaks where along the right rivet lines. The result is plausible because it's based on reality.
I started weathering years ago by randomly applying grime, rust, dirt, etc. in a manner that looked realistic to me. But once I started really examining prototype photos and collecting books on prototype equipment and painting guides, I began to realize that wasn't the path to realism. Using prototype photos as a guide has helped my modeling considerably.
Good luck.
Modeling the Rio Grande Southern First District circa 1938-1946 in HOn3.
Well thanks I guess? I had some good comments and some comments that were annoying. With the car I had weathered It did not have all the right FRA marks on it, I used my decals on other detailing projects. This car was going to have the look that it hasn't moved much and has been rusted over, i've seen many similar examples on Class 1 railroads. There is many examples of hand painted numbers, and i'll work on the on the only FRA marks like load capicity.
Tjsingle;
That is a pretty good start. However if I can make a few suggestions.
Even when railroads are doing quick touch-ups of road numbers or other reporting marks, they usually do it with a stencil not free hand. The back ground that they would paint for those marks would be masked off so that when the paint is applied it would be in a nicely squared or a rectangle with sharp lines and corners. The backgrounds that I have seen have tended to be more of a grey primer background rather than brilliant white.
The inside of the car should look more like the outside does. It is just too bright to have the outside looking that skroungy.
Just my worth.
Keep on plugging away, it truly comes with practise and more practise. None of us that I know were just born with it.
I'm always a little scared of going to far. I personally like light weathering, a little rust here and there and only a couple on the layout that are truly harder to read.
So my suggestion to you overall would be those things. You pay really good hard earned money for the paint schemes and lettering that the Mfgs have put on them, so enjoy them by only weathering to the point that they look like they have been in revenue service for awhile and you can tell that by the build date on them. The odd car that might be more of a junker that you want to keep running for a longer period of time .>> go at it with more weathering than the others.
Johnboy out..........
from Saskatchewan, in the Great White North..
We have met the enemy, and he is us............ (Pogo)
We all have to start somewhere. I agree with jktrains. Study a photo and you will see a difference. I will tell you the truth. I do alot of my weathering by fantasy, no picture and going by whats in my mind. Sometimes the look good and then, UGH!!!!!! I am currently working on a Chessie patched to a CSXT 2-bay hopper. I found a easy photo to use for it. Thats another thing, choose a good photo. Something easy. I have picked out a few I thought were easy and they weren't.
I believe if you find a good shot of a car, and its like looking into a mirrior. To the photo and your car. Heres a car a did awhile back. It was done by a photo. It wasn't to hard to do. My Chessie I am working on is someone like this one. Try it, you might see a difference, and may be easier.
Model:
Photo of actual car:
"Rust, whats not to love?"
Tjsingle wrote: Well thanks I guess? I had some good comments and some comments that were annoying. With the car I had weathered It did not have all the right FRA marks on it, I used my decals on other detailing projects. This car was going to have the look that it hasn't moved much and has been rusted over, i've seen many similar examples on Class 1 railroads. There is many examples of hand painted numbers, and i'll work on the on the only FRA marks like load capicity.Tjsingle
Tjsingle - you said you've seen 'many similar examples' on Class 1 roads. I've can't recall seeing any and Dave V. hasn't been ableto find any on Fallen Flags site either. I've seen hand painted reporting marks on things like hot metal cars and ingot cars, but Class 1 equipment usually has a more professional look, regardless of how much its been moved. If you've got pics like you're talking about, please post them.
TJ,
I was about to say the same thing... you have to start somewhere. Like I said I did a lot of very bad weathering in my day (I still do botch cars now and then, hence my drive to find a "reversable" weathering process).
Take everything that was said here onboard. You seem like a very mature young man and have taken all the comments quite well. Realize that all of us want to see you do better because we know you can. There's so much more information available now (and for free) than there was when I was your age; take advantage!
We all start somewhere. But we also all need a little help getting there. Your gon gave its life for a good cause; you'll be a better modeler the next time you weather.
Dave Vollmer wrote: TJ,I was about to say the same thing... you have to start somewhere. Like I said I did a lot of very bad weathering in my day (I still do botch cars now and then, hence my drive to find a "reversable" weathering process).Take everything that was said here onboard. You seem like a very mature young man and have taken all the comments quite well. Realize that all of us want to see you do better because we know you can. There's so much more information available now (and for free) than there was when I was your age; take advantage!We all start somewhere. But we also all need a little help getting there. Your gon gave its life for a good cause; you'll be a better modeler the next time you weather.
Thank go I used Acrylic paint :), I stripped off all the paint and weathering, and dry brushed on a thick layer of rust, then removed most of it and repeated the process several times. I'm happy with this coat much more. I'll post pics when it dries.
Thanks Guys
To expand on what Dave V said;
You have a good head on your shoulders, and an open mind for both praise and criticism. Both are qualities that many people (including myself) struggle with.
(Hopefully) I'll be back at work tomorrow, and I'll try to get you some photos of a few gons that we received a short time ago for scrap metal haulage that are VERY beat up.
I've been chasing trains for 30 years, and I've never seen slap dash reporting marks like that. I know you're working on a budget... been there, done that... But what you've got there isn't going to look good in the eyes of many beholders.
I think you can do better, and that should be the goal of any hobby... to improve your skills. Take advantage of the many resources out there for prototype images to use as a guide.
The guys that offer empty praise aren't helping you. Sorry, but it's the truth. You posted the image, I assume, to seek guidance, not meaningless approval.
Your enthusiasm is great, and your willingness to share your work is commendable. But don't accept "That Looks Great" when you know in your heart that you've got more work to do.
Go back and re-read Dave's weathering thread. Study the images. Go to Fallen Flags, or any other proto reference site. Go to the decal rack at your LHS, and see what you can find that'll help, even if it's just a set of white alphabets.
The good news is you can clean off that first attempt with some rubbing alcohol and start over.
Lee
Route of the Alpha Jets www.wmrywesternlines.net
I saw a prototype photo either on the Trains.com forums, or another forum, just a day or two ago, showing something just about like that. The reporting marks appeared to be painted with a spray can, free hand. No stencils.
If I see it again, I'll post it here.
Rotor
Jake: How often does the train go by? Elwood: So often you won't even notice ...
Hit it with a hair dryer for about ten minutes and then dump 20 pounds of rust in it, it might come out close to this, but the patch and all that other gunk on the sides would have to go first.
Neutrino wrote:
Now that is a non compliant car if anything is!
No safety appliances for climbing or riding the car (not that I'd ride that one anyways. I'd cripple it)
Car body has shifted outwards.
Lading in the car can shift and end up out of the car.
Lading is above top of car with no cover or protection.
Rotorranch wrote: I saw a prototype photo either on the Trains.com forums, or another forum, just a day or two ago, showing something just about like that. The reporting marks appeared to be painted with a spray can, free hand. No stencils.If I see it again, I'll post it here.Rotor
Do you mean this ?
Posted By Wikious on WPF 9-05-08
wm3798 wrote: I've been chasing trains for 30 years, and I've never seen slap dash reporting marks like that. I know you're working on a budget... been there, done that... But what you've got there isn't going to look good in the eyes of many beholders.I think you can do better, and that should be the goal of any hobby... to improve your skills. Take advantage of the many resources out there for prototype images to use as a guide.The guys that offer empty praise aren't helping you. Sorry, but it's the truth. You posted the image, I assume, to seek guidance, not meaningless approval.Your enthusiasm is great, and your willingness to share your work is commendable. But don't accept "That Looks Great" when you know in your heart that you've got more work to do.Go back and re-read Dave's weathering thread. Study the images. Go to Fallen Flags, or any other proto reference site. Go to the decal rack at your LHS, and see what you can find that'll help, even if it's just a set of white alphabets.The good news is you can clean off that first attempt with some rubbing alcohol and start over.Lee
I totally understand, and Lets just say that the black wash was completely removed down to the red, and then painted in a nice coat of rust.
Tjsingle wrote: Rotorranch wrote: I saw a prototype photo either on the Trains.com forums, or another forum, just a day or two ago, showing something just about like that. The reporting marks appeared to be painted with a spray can, free hand. No stencils.If I see it again, I'll post it here.RotorDo you mean this ?Posted By Wikious on WPF 9-05-08
Yep...that's it!