Don Z wrote: Jarrell,What you are looking at in the 'After' photo is the result of applying 4 different molds to the hardshell form. I use White Art Plaster, purchased in a 50 pound bag for $14.00 from a local artist supply store. The plaster is mixed in a 6 cups of plaster/5 cups of water ratio ...Don Z.
Jarrell,
What you are looking at in the 'After' photo is the result of applying 4 different molds to the hardshell form. I use White Art Plaster, purchased in a 50 pound bag for $14.00 from a local artist supply store. The plaster is mixed in a 6 cups of plaster/5 cups of water ratio ...
Don Z.
And lots of drop cloths
There are even better parts of this to come.
Regards,
Tom
Sawyer Berry
Clemson University c/o 2018
Building a protolanced industrial park layout
Don Z....... very nice , lets see more of those castings
Lee....... cool pic in tunnel
Sawyer....... looks like you are off to a good start
N Scale Diesels......I like 'em
- Luke
Modeling the Southern Pacific in the 1960's-1980's
I got 2 new vids on the bucket. They aren't the best, but, they have sound!
1. http://s257.photobucket.com/albums/hh201/SuperChieff/?action=view¤t=MVI_0656.flv
2. http://s257.photobucket.com/albums/hh201/SuperChieff/?action=view¤t=MVI_0654.flv
Great job everyone.
Jarrell, Nice start. Your photos are sure crystal clear.
Don, Love the before and after rocks. We should all take a lesson from you.
Crandell, Your shot this week would make a great Christmas Card.
Sue
Anything is possible if you do not know what you are talking about.
Don Z wrote:I'll preface this post by admittimg my camera skills are not even close to Jarrell's, so bear with me.... I've been busy learning many new aspects of the hobby....wet plaster rock casting, chipping plaster to blend the wet molds, coloring the rock and now I'm able to start doing some ground cover type scenery. Here is a before and after photo of one section I've been working on:Before:After:Don Z.
I'll preface this post by admittimg my camera skills are not even close to Jarrell's, so bear with me....
I've been busy learning many new aspects of the hobby....wet plaster rock casting, chipping plaster to blend the wet molds, coloring the rock and now I'm able to start doing some ground cover type scenery. Here is a before and after photo of one section I've been working on:
Before:
After:
if those rocks looked any better i'd accuse you of trying to slip in a photo of real rocks and telling us you'd just finished painting them . excellent work !
ernie
Topeka North Western, ex. UP, SD-7
Reese
Modeling NS One Locomotive At a Time
Here's my contribution to the WPF. My favorite loco BN GP38-2 Pacific Pride II from athearn. Since im still confined to the carpet this is all i can show! I may put my bowed out 4x8 back up for a moment and take some scenic pics! BTW i only have saw horses for benchwork for the moment until i can afford lumber for real benchwork.
V&AL Motive Power Report:
Fred's Locomotive Shop:
E-33 4605 was dissasembled for conversion to an E-75M. All internal equipment will be replaced with state of the art assemblies (in scale, a decoder will be installed), and a modern wide cab will be installed. The 4605 is the pilot for the E-75M program. It will be painted in the blue/green/yellow scheme upon completion.
The "Shop Hop" (Alco 415 center cab shop switcher) is undergoing routine maintenance to clean dirty electrical contacts.
The F-45 to E-45 program continues:
The 4510 was rolled over to the paint shop earlier today, and the next "victim" was pulled into the shop for conversion.
In other motive-power news, an Alleghenny-Midland MP-15 is enroute to the shops after suffering minor damage on V&AL property, and 2 Wisconsin Central SD-45s are inbound for routine maintenance after running into their maintenance cycle returning from a Fox Valley Flyer run to Suffolk. 2 V&AL F-45's have been dispatched to the PVRR to cover while the SD-45's are in the shop.
Jerrell,, thanks...yes it is the PCM all metal Y6b with Loksound. Really a pleasure to operate, although the connector into the under-cab receptacle isn't worth a pinch of poo. It works its way loose, if fractionally, during operations and the engine will quite running at the worst times. The sounds will stay on, but no driver motion. Otherwise, it's a winner.
-Crandell
Lee, I like this one!
Jarrell
Don, when you say 'hard shell', do you mean the hillside/ground is something like plaster cloth? Well, I won't ask you anymore questions in this thread because it'll just get lost within and hard for others to keep up with, and I'm sure there are a lot of people here that would like to know more about the technique. Maybe when you have time and you're going to do some of the 'rocks' anyway, you could do a little seminar with pictures. I know I'd appreciate that.
Thanks!
Don Z wrote: jacon12 wrote: How do you DO THAT?!! I've tried it and you ain't EVEN going to see the pictures of it before I ripped it out! You couldn't be talked into a little seminar on it, could you.. pretty please?Jarrell Jarrell,What you are looking at in the 'After' photo is the result of applying 4 different molds to the hardshell form. I use White Art Plaster, purchased in a 50 pound bag for $14.00 from a local artist supply store. The plaster is mixed in a 6 cups of plaster/5 cups of water ratio and stirred by hand until all lumps are eliminated. The plaster mix is left sitting in the bowl until it reaches the consistency of pancake batter and then poured onto the rock molds. The molds have no lip to contain the plaster, so the plaster is poured in several passes, pausing to spread the plaster evenly across the mold.Once the mold is full, the plaster is left to set for about another minute or so. At that time, the mold is lifted and placed into position, pressing the mold into place on the hardshell. Some plaster will ooze out around the perimeter of the mold, but that is left to cure for a bit before being removed. The mold is left on the plaster for about 2 minutes or so, then removed well before the plaster hardens.I had to learn to wait until the plaster felt cold and clammy before I could take a chisel and pop off the overlapping areas of the molds to blend them together to hide any joints.The molds I used belong to my mentor, Chuck Ellis. He has about 100 different molds that he has cast over the years. His layout was featured in MR in Dec. 2001 and is the subkect of Allen Keller's videos, Volume 52. Let me know if you have any other questions.Don Z.
jacon12 wrote: How do you DO THAT?!! I've tried it and you ain't EVEN going to see the pictures of it before I ripped it out! You couldn't be talked into a little seminar on it, could you.. pretty please?Jarrell
How do you DO THAT?!! I've tried it and you ain't EVEN going to see the pictures of it before I ripped it out! You couldn't be talked into a little seminar on it, could you.. pretty please?
What you are looking at in the 'After' photo is the result of applying 4 different molds to the hardshell form. I use White Art Plaster, purchased in a 50 pound bag for $14.00 from a local artist supply store. The plaster is mixed in a 6 cups of plaster/5 cups of water ratio and stirred by hand until all lumps are eliminated. The plaster mix is left sitting in the bowl until it reaches the consistency of pancake batter and then poured onto the rock molds. The molds have no lip to contain the plaster, so the plaster is poured in several passes, pausing to spread the plaster evenly across the mold.
Once the mold is full, the plaster is left to set for about another minute or so. At that time, the mold is lifted and placed into position, pressing the mold into place on the hardshell. Some plaster will ooze out around the perimeter of the mold, but that is left to cure for a bit before being removed. The mold is left on the plaster for about 2 minutes or so, then removed well before the plaster hardens.
I had to learn to wait until the plaster felt cold and clammy before I could take a chisel and pop off the overlapping areas of the molds to blend them together to hide any joints.
The molds I used belong to my mentor, Chuck Ellis. He has about 100 different molds that he has cast over the years. His layout was featured in MR in Dec. 2001 and is the subkect of Allen Keller's videos, Volume 52. Let me know if you have any other questions.
That's a fine image of a great looking engine. Isn't it a BLI?
selector wrote:I am back to a favourite theme of mine: trestle and mallet in sepia.
I am back to a favourite theme of mine: trestle and mallet in sepia.
Still laying track, but this arrived and I just had to run it.
Lee
I LOVE in the "in the tunnel" picture! Good stuff.
The molds I used belong to my mentor, Chuck Ellis. He has about 100 different molds that he has cast over the years. His layout was featured in MR in Dec. 2001 and is the subject of Allen Keller's videos, Volume 52. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Research; it's not just for geeks.
Those rocks are good looking.. But please give your seminar over on the layout building forum...
Here's a couple of my recent efforts...
Another former member of the Blue Team... Caught on rare trackage, the old Baltimore, Chesapeake and Atlantic main line east of Salisbury, Maryland late Friday afternoon. Now a long branch line out to a large feed facility operated by Perdue Farms. If you've got chicken on your table tonight, it probably came from Delmarva...
and on the layout...
Next time I'll pay attention to those "no trespassing" signs!!
Route of the Alpha Jets www.wmrywesternlines.net
jacon12 wrote: How do you DO THAT?!! I've tried it and you ain't EVEN going to see the pictures of it before I ripped it out! You couldn't be talked into a little seminar on it, could you.. pretty please?Jarrell Don Z wrote:I'll preface this post by admittimg my camera skills are not even close to Jarrell's, so bear with me.... I've been busy learning many new aspects of the hobby....wet plaster rock casting, chipping plaster to blend the wet molds, coloring the rock and now I'm able to start doing some ground cover type scenery. Here is a before and after photo of one section I've been working on:Before:After:Don Z.
YA PRETTY PRETTY PLEASE! SEMINAR! SEMINAR! SEMINAR!
All right, here's my progress. I'll be happy to answer all questions, good or bad. However, to clear up one thing:
THE CARBOARD STRUCTURE IS ONLY A MOCK-UP TO SEE WHAT THE SPACE I'LL HAVE LEFT TO USE.
TrainFreak409 wrote: I snagged this one at work, where I play with 1:1 trains!SD70M-2 no. 2708 and two SD80MAC on an empty coal train sitting in Enola Yard.
I snagged this one at work, where I play with 1:1 trains!
SD70M-2 no. 2708 and two SD80MAC on an empty coal train sitting in Enola Yard.
Man do i miss the old conrail blue sd80macs
Atleast theres one :D
DON Z
Very nice result!!!
Don, those are excellent carvings! You don't have to excuse yourself for anything if you're going to post stuff like that. Very credible. Congratulations.
Please pardon my glue bottle.
"The true sign of intelligence is not knowledge but imagination."-Albert Einstein
http://gearedsteam.blogspot.com/
A critter hauls some logs on my shelf layout. The layout has been around for a long time, everything except the track has been stripped off. I just set it up recently to take some photos and do some photo experiments:
Bob Boudreau
CANADA
Visit my model railroad photography website: http://sites.google.com/site/railphotog/
I'll preface this post by admitting my camera skills are not even close to Jarrell's, so bear with me....