TrainManTy wrote: Sweet pictures everyone!Graphite: I love that warehouse!I made a tour of my layout so far, a little messy and kind of shaky camera work, but oh well. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JXUufn7NvhQ Enjoy!
Sweet pictures everyone!
Graphite: I love that warehouse!
I made a tour of my layout so far, a little messy and kind of shaky camera work, but oh well.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JXUufn7NvhQ
Enjoy!
great start. what size is the room?
-Morgan
loathar wrote:GraphiteHemi-Nice looking warehouse! I'm assuming that's scratch built?
I agree. That really looks nice. On the layout I'm planning it will have some what of a similar industry.
My Youtube Channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/JR7582 My Flickr Photos: http://www.flickr.com/photos/wcfan/
Thanks! Yup, 99.9% scratchbuilt. The only thing that isn't are the roof top details. The awnings and stairs were all scratchbuilt also. Awnings were the toughest part.
DigitalGriffin wrote: fiatfan wrote: Thank you. I didn't use anything to create the flangeways while pouring the road. I simply used some barriers to define the roadway. Then I pour plaster of paris and use one of those phony credit cards to smooth the surface. After the plaster of paris was dry, I used a hacksaw blade to create the flangeways. Here's another technique I saw used:Put thin plastic strips butted up against the inside rail. When the plaster sets, pull them out.
fiatfan wrote: Thank you. I didn't use anything to create the flangeways while pouring the road. I simply used some barriers to define the roadway. Then I pour plaster of paris and use one of those phony credit cards to smooth the surface. After the plaster of paris was dry, I used a hacksaw blade to create the flangeways.
Thank you. I didn't use anything to create the flangeways while pouring the road. I simply used some barriers to define the roadway. Then I pour plaster of paris and use one of those phony credit cards to smooth the surface. After the plaster of paris was dry, I used a hacksaw blade to create the flangeways.
Here's another technique I saw used:
Put thin plastic strips butted up against the inside rail. When the plaster sets, pull them out.
Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam
SilverSpike wrote:Tom,Thanks for sharing your road and flange way technique. I like the way it came out on your layout. I have another question for you. Do you add the concrete color to the plaster mix, or do you paint it after it has setup and the flange ways are cut?Thanks,Ryan
Tom,
Thanks for sharing your road and flange way technique. I like the way it came out on your layout.
I have another question for you. Do you add the concrete color to the plaster mix, or do you paint it after it has setup and the flange ways are cut?
Thanks,
Ryan
Ryan, I add color to the plaster while mixing it. I use the Apple Barrel acrylic paints from Wal Mart. Generally the dolphin gray or the pewter gray. You may need to add a little black to get it to a color that you like. Experiment with small sections and keep track of what proportions give you the best color.
Keep in mind that when it dries, it will seem a little dark. After the road dries, one of the things I do is to sand the surface with some 230 grit sandpaper. This will lighten the color somewhat. One other tip is to make a large enough batch to pour an entire section of road at once. Sometimes it can be hard to match the colors.
I generally pour my roads in two layers when working around tracks. The first layer will tend to settle around the ties and leave the surface uneven. The second pour then gives you a fairly nice surface with only a little sanding to do. I generally pour the first layer to cover the tops of the ties. When that is dry I pour the second layer.
One other thing I forgot to mention about cutting the flangeways. After you use the hacksaw, you may need to use a small pointed tool to clear some of the plaster from the web of the rail. I use one of these:
They come in a set of four for a couple bucks at the local farm supply store. Use a little care so you don't bevel the flangeway.
Tom
Life is simple - eat, drink, play with trains!
Go Big Red!
PA&ERR "If you think you are doing something stupid, you're probably right!"
You're in Jail/behind bars os some kind :) and we're supposed to believe you? Just Joshin!
CanadianShield wrote: I'm a carsalesman. Just had to say something! Haha
I'm a carsalesman. Just had to say something! Haha
You're a car salesman & we're supposed to believe you?!!
Just joking!
Well if they were only in Canada this whole time, I think you Missed out!
Ask Meat Loaf (of Texas) & Alan Jackson (of Georgia) what they think:
Well if I had money,I'd tell you what I'd do,I go downtown buy a Mercury or two.Crazy bout a Mercury,Lord I'm crazy bout a Mercury,I'm gonna buy me a Mercury & cruise it up & down the road.
Don - Specializing in layout DC->DCC conversions
Modeling C&O transition era and steel industries There's Nothing Like Big Steam!
jeffrey-wimberly wrote: lvanhen wrote: IRONHORSE77 wrote: And a red Mercury pick-up sitting along side the ROWChuck??? I'll swear that's a Ford!! Looks like my first truck!!That's a Ford. To my knowledge Mercury never made any pickups.
lvanhen wrote: IRONHORSE77 wrote: And a red Mercury pick-up sitting along side the ROWChuck??? I'll swear that's a Ford!! Looks like my first truck!!
IRONHORSE77 wrote: And a red Mercury pick-up sitting along side the ROWChuck
And a red Mercury pick-up sitting along side the ROW
Chuck
??? I'll swear that's a Ford!! Looks like my first truck!!
They sure did-in Canada. http://www.mercurypickup.com/
CanadianShield wrote: Mercury did have pickups... But thats a ford in the pic.
Mercury did have pickups...
But thats a ford in the pic.
images.google.com and type in Mercury Pickup.
Ryan BoudreauxThe Piedmont Division Modeling The Southern Railway, Norfolk & Western & Norfolk Southern in HO during the merger eraCajun Chef Ryan
AltoonaRailroader wrote: fiatfan wrote: Very nice work everyone. Here's a road I 've been working on. Still have some fiinishing touches to put on it but at least trains can run again.http://www.frontiernet.net/~tbohlen/IMG_2721.jpgVery nice Tom, what did you use on the inside of the rails to keep your filler from filling the whole gap between the rails in? I have some places on my layout that I will be doing this too and but I want to make sure I have enough of a gap for the wheel flanges to go through.
fiatfan wrote: Very nice work everyone. Here's a road I 've been working on. Still have some fiinishing touches to put on it but at least trains can run again.http://www.frontiernet.net/~tbohlen/IMG_2721.jpg
Very nice work everyone. Here's a road I 've been working on. Still have some fiinishing touches to put on it but at least trains can run again.
http://www.frontiernet.net/~tbohlen/IMG_2721.jpg
Very nice Tom, what did you use on the inside of the rails to keep your filler from filling the whole gap between the rails in? I have some places on my layout that I will be doing this too and but I want to make sure I have enough of a gap for the wheel flanges to go through.
Thank you. I didn't use anything to create the flangeways while pouring the road. I simply used some barriers to define the roadway. Then I pour plaster of paris and use one of those phony credit cards to smooth the surface. After the plaster of paris was dry, I used a hacksaw blade to create the flangeways. Sometimes you may need to start the flangeway with an Exacto knife. You just need to get a starting point so all you need to do with the Exacto knife is carefully scrape away a small amount of plaster to provide a guide for the blade. I have tried patching plaster but it can crumble more easily than POP. Make sure the plaster is completely dry before cutting the flangeways.
fiatfan wrote: Very nice work everyone. Here's a road I 've been working on. Still have some fiinishing touches to put on it but at least trains can run again.Tom
Flashwave wrote: GTX765 wrote: BR 19.10 in testing stages....... Nice. how's it handle. I was afried that the pilot being in a guide would cut down on the radius
GTX765 wrote: BR 19.10 in testing stages.......
BR 19.10 in testing stages.......
Nice. how's it handle. I was afried that the pilot being in a guide would cut down on the radius
It handle very nicely on small radius turns, the main issues are one the manual for DCC is in German. The sound for this engine will be different than any other steam. I like it but others may not understand. Then engine used different technology than the American steam so there is no chuff just more of a long hiss. It has the lok sound 3.5 installled and a smoke generator that can be turned off and on by the DCC. I enjoy it very much and cant wait for the wagons to arrive for it.
New Caboose and New to them 2-8-4:
CNJ831 wrote: Awaiting the call to duty, circa 1941, on the Hudson Highlands RR.CNJ831
Awaiting the call to duty, circa 1941, on the Hudson Highlands RR.
CNJ831
- Luke
Modeling the Southern Pacific in the 1960's-1980's
After redoing the engine house I had these window cut outs leftover which were a scale 4x8 ft so I made an out house
Since the switchman's shanty scaled out at 12 ft wide I had enough to do it too !
TerryinTexas
See my Web Site Here
http://conewriversubdivision.yolasite.com/
Here's a little project I've been working on. It's all ready for paint before final assembly.