Should I buy a DCC loco now, or buy one that is just dcc ready or buy one that is just standard dc...
Whay I ask? Im just wondering if you all went out and bought all the bells and whistles or slowly worked your way up.
Are there any loco's (newer deisel style) that are not possible to be updated?
Thanks in advance,
Ken
edit: Let me add, I will be buying a DCC controler first, I believe they can be run in analog to run non-dcc equiped engines(right?)
Chip
Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.
If you want to get beyond the train set level in the hobby, then DCC's the way to go, IMO.
Not only do you get independent control of the locos, but you also get the ability to independently tune the performance of the locos.
While you can use multiple power packs and more than a little wiring and toggles to get somewhat independent control of your locos in DC, no amount of wiring in DC will give you independent tuning of your loco performance.
If you do an honest comparison of multiple high end power packs (with momentum if you want to compare apples to apples), along with block wiring and toggles, you'll probably be breaking $100 easy. A good starter DCC system (the NCE PowerCab or the Digitrax Zephyr) will cost you about $150.
And with nice fleet decoders being circa $12 each in quantity, you will get independent loco control right out of the box, and be able to independently tune each loco's performance as well. I don't think it gets much better than that.
Joe Fugate Modeling the 1980s SP Siskiyou Line in southern Oregon
I bought a BLI Mountain with QSI. One of the things I found attractive was... it runs with Analog power and I dont need all of that expensive pie-in-sky DCC..
or do I?
Im presented with two buttons whistle and bell. Ok.
Then I learn the engine wont get along with other Analog engines. Ok, no problem I run em alone.
More QSI engines show up. Then they started to display different starting places on the Tech 2.
An oppertunity presented itself to acquire DCC as a Christmas Gift. It was a very good year.
Whew.
Now do I regret going all DCC? NO REGRETS!
I still am holding onto the Tech 4 220 just in case a analog stray gets adopted at a train show.
DC will get you the basics that have been the start of zillions of modellers the world over. Now there is something new, and whether it is "better" depends on what you think of the newbie's capabilities.
It happened that I walked into an LHS in early January 2005 and wanted to see a nice steam engine. He showed me a BLI Hudson with Quantum Sound. I think I would have written a check for twice what I paid, although I paid plenty for it...he must have watched me walk through the door. Oddly, he sold me a DC powerpack, and since I had some EZ-Track already from a Christmas layout, I used the Hudson on a DC system for about two weeks. Then I read here and began to understand what I had been missing. So, I ordered a Digitrax DCC system and have never looked back. Naturally, all the other engines since acquired are DCC with sound.
DCC does cost more, although it depends on what and how, and how much over a bunch of variables. On the other hand, getting anything halfway like what DCC does for prototypical train movements with DC is a major expenditure in materials and in time, with not inconsiderable activity throwing switches once you get the trains running. DCC, in that respect, is much simpler, and allows the user to do more. Sound is an extra that can be a lot of fun and add a huge dimension to the experience, but it is a double-edged sword. You won't be able to stand all of your engines making random sounds for long. You will learn to turn some off entirely or at least to mute them. It's just too noisy for most of us.
So, the dead simplest is a dc oval and many folks have had a good time with that. Then most of us realize that there is much more, and that begins to require some money, some changes, and a different approach to operating the layout. We all go through it to an extent, some starting further back, some getting in right with the very latest. So, you might as well make up your own mind about what you want from the hobby now, and how that will contribute to what you are quite sure you will want in a few weeks or months.
If you are going to go DCC, jump in with both feet. As Joe says, it really is the best way to "Run Trains" not run a layout.
By all means start off with a couple DCC equiped loco's. Perhaps a couple of the Bachmanns with DCC onboard. They are limited on what you can do but they have the basics and run fairly well. Then, depending on your skills, experience and desires, pick up some DCC ready locos and add the decoder of your choice, either standard or sound.
As mentioned, most locos are now coming with a DCC plug, so the requirement to hardwire a decoder is much less necessary.
Good luck and enjoy.
Tilden
Your next question might be, "Should I get sound right away, or add it later?"
Well, after putting DCC in one engine, I would never bother with DC-only again. After getting 1 sound engine, I would never buy one without it. I've installed decoders myself, and I don't find that to be bad at all. I got some great deals on out-of-production engines in the road names I wanted, but I had to add my own decoders. I've upgraded 1 of these to sound, also, but that's a lot more of a headache than it's worth. If you can, start with installed sound and you'll be happy with it. The additional cost of sound in a new engine is about what you'd pay for the decoder and speaker, but instead of a bunch of parts, you'll have a running engine when you take it out of the box.
Yes, jump in. With all 3 feet.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
I retain the Tech 4 throttle and one analog engine as a sort of a guniea pig testing new trackwork for shorts and such. So that if it burns up it will not risk the more expensive engines.
I too was shown the BLI Hudson by the Hobby Shop years ago. I would have bought it on the spot too if I knew something like that existed. What a day that was... "Silence no more" the Company motto said. Now they are almost silent on full DCC products.
Looking at it from a club's perspective, let me explain what we went through. Our present 20 x 40 foot HO scale layout was begun in 1995.
The February 1995 issue of Mainline Modeler magazine had a feature article about the Cooler Crawler walk-around DC controller. At that time, DCC systems and decoders cost a bazillion dollars and we didn't think we could afford to equip our locomotives, so we opted to wire for DC block control with an option to add DCC in the future by putting rotary switches on the control panels that could select between either DC block or DCC control.
This meant that we had to have miles of block control wiring and nearly 200 toggle switches on six control panels, and 12 Cooler Crawler throttles running from a centralized 35 Amp power supply. Materials for the DC block control panels, wiring, and throttles cost nearly $1,000 from surplus electronics supply houses, and would have been significantly more if we had paid retail for it.
When we finally acquired a DCC system and everyone saw what it could do that DC block control couldn't, no one wanted to use the Cooler Crawler. I installed close to 100 decoders for club members, and many have purchased BLI, Atlas, P2K, Bachmann, T55, and other higher-quality locomotives with sound.
The control panels and Cooler Crawler DC throttles are hardly touched by anyone today.
We recently upgraded from our original DCC system, which used an old Atari 8-bit 800XL computer to store decoder data and could operate 8 trains simultaneously, to a North Coast Engineering PowerPro Radio system with 6 throttles that can control up to 36 trains simultaneously.
Even new members with 20-year old engines want sound decoders installed as soon as they join the club, and won't even try to figure out how to use the control panels and Cooler Crawler DC block system with all its toggle switches.
If we had started with DCC only, we wouldn't need any of the control panels and only about 1/100th the amount of wire that was used.
Ok, to answer questions.
Yes to HO(I need to put that in my sig)
Im pretty good with a soldering iron. I will just need to buy one for my house... Dont think the boss would like me bringing home the nice Weller systems we have at work. I just dont know what locos can be converted to DCC and what cant. I think you need to but a decoder + a wire/pin connector just to convert it, and depending on the decoder I may need to buy sound???
I do plan on a DCC controller to start, as to wich one, im still trying to feel that out. None of the LHS carry any, I still have not visited the best LHS in the area... Its just not on the way home or in the area Ive been shopping in for Christmas. So I have yet to be able to look one over. I still need to hit the "big" store near Pickiney(locals will know what one Im talking about.)
Something I also do not know: What all can a DCC controller, control? Sound I know, individual engines, speed tuning... Can it control the switches on the layout? Can it control the lights around the track? Can it control the ammount of money I spend or how much my wife reminds me on how much money Ive spent? So on and so on...
I have picked up 4 rolls of 16 gauge wire (500 ft each) red, black, blue, yellow... So I should have enough wire, if not a good start. I also have use of some smaller stuff, if I can use it for town lighting. Im gussing Ill use a lot less wire for a DCC operation, or so I take from your comments.
Ive done a ton of pricing for the extruded foam at HD. Ranges from $15 for 1/2" to $25 for 2" (4x8) But now Im getting away from My DCC questions... Sorry.
Again, the layout will consist of at least 2 4x8 sections and a shelf area. aka the dog bone layout. Id like to have a well lit town. anyways, I await your answers and comments.
ArcticCat wrote:Something I also do not know: What all can a DCC controller, control? Sound I know, individual engines, speed tuning... Can it control the switches on the layout?Can it control the lights around the track?Can it control the ammount of money I spend or how much my wife reminds me on how much money Ive spent?
Something I also do not know:
Ken,
Answers to your questions about DCC systems:
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Hi Ken, Welcome to the forum.
ArcticCat wrote:I do plan on a DCC controller to start, as to wich one, im still trying to feel that out. None of the LHS carry any, I still have not visited the best LHS in the area... Its just not on the way home or in the area Ive been shopping in for Christmas. So I have yet to be able to look one over. I still need to hit the "big" store near Pickiney(locals will know what one Im talking about.)Something I also do not know: What all can a DCC controller, control? Sound I know, individual engines, speed tuning... Can it control the switches on the layout? Can it control the lights around the track? Can it control the ammount of money I spend or how much my wife reminds me on how much money Ive spent? So on and so on...
Here are a couple places to start learning more about DCC. You may have seen some of them already.
An excellent forum clinic on Picking the best DCC system: http://www.trains.com/trccs/forums/1252273/ShowPost.aspx
Another forum clinic of DCC experiences: http://www.trains.com/trccs/forums/467545/ShowPost.aspx
A comparison of some DCC systems at Tony's Train Exchange: http://www.tonystrains.com/productcompare/dcccomparison.htm
ArcticCat wrote:I have picked up 4 rolls of 16 gauge wire (500 ft each) red, black, blue, yellow... So I should have enough wire, if not a good start. I also have use of some smaller stuff, if I can use it for town lighting. Im gussing Ill use a lot less wire for a DCC operation, or so I take from your comments.
For the size layout you mentioned, 16 gauge is about the smallest wire you would want to use. You might want to think about exchanging it for 14 gauge for bus wire. For feeders, you can use 18, 20, or 22 gauge, depending on the length from the bus to the track.
I would use a separate power bus to light any buildings. Maybe 16 gauge will work for that, I don't have any experience with lighting buildings, so someone else will have to jump in with that info.
My .
FT
From the far, far reaches of the wild, wild west I am: rtpoteet
I agree with Poteet.
If you have absolutely nothing now, buy a 4x8 sheet of plywood or foam and lay it on the floor.
Buy a DCC on board train set from someone like Bachmann. It will be under $200.00 It will come with an EZCommand DCC controler, and a DCC engine, track and cars. Presto ... you are up and running.
Drive it around in circles for a while. You will soon develop an idea of how you would like to expand it. You can then buy pieces one at a time as finances permit. You will eventually want to get a "good" DCC system. By that time you will have decided which one. Seeing your train on 18 inch radius EZ Track will give you perspective for choosing the radius curves you want on the real layout when you build it.
Read everything you can find on model railroading including lots of these forums. Go to some shows. If you jump in suddenly without a frame of reference, you could spend thousands on something that you find you don't like .... bummer.
Sketch your real layout and mess with it for months before actually starting construction. Use as much space as you can.
Your questions. Most, but not all, DCC throttles can control switches. (EZCommand can not) Good systems can run switch routes (A series of switches with one command). Remembering the switch addresses is a problem for some operators. A diagram can help. DCC systems with decoders for the switches can throw the switches including the routes from a push button on the layout if you prefer. DCC systems can be integrated with a computer if you desire. DCC systems can integrate detection and transponding to automate signals, crossing gates, even some switching.
Any engine CAN be converted, but some of them require some expertise and/or ingenuity. DCC ready engines have a plug so you just have to plug a decoder in and they are ready. No soldering required. DCC on board engines are DCC right out of the box.
As you can see there is no upper end. You can use as many or as few of the capabilities as are appropriate to your particular situation and budget.
Dave
Lackawanna Route of the Phoebe Snow
I got started for good when me Dad built a under the bed layout with castor wheels on the corners. I think that thing was 3x6 foot if that.. with 18 (And a smidgen smaller where necessary) at the small number 4 switches. It was one loop, two switches for a runaround and one spur.
Three toggle switches with a trainset power pack sealed the whole thing.
Motive power was a life like F unit (1970's trainset) and all horn/hook couplers. Switching was impossible with these on truck mounted couplers. But I drove about 10 years worth of circles on that thing. I believe it is still stored in the old basement to this day. With the damp and the mold plus the really sad attempts at scenic work it is worth tossing away in the dumpster.
But I got started running complete trains as a kid. In my neighborhood two other kids got trains and tried to run it on my railroad and we learned things about large wheel base deisels not working on 18" radius. Are THEY still in the hobby? I have NO idea. But I DO hope those problems with large wheel base and curves didnt scare em off for good.
I say it's time folks put down a loop of something, run a train any way they can and from there they can maybe see where it might go. I gotta tell you a room dedicated to trains plus a pernament benchwork for the track, wires etc.. is very very very necessary for a bright future in trains.
Would I still use the trainset today? Not for me. I want metal wheels, kadee couplers, a bit of weathering, trees etc. And I use a digitrax DS-64 to throw kato number 6 switches now instead of those awful buzz death kills on the old atlas switches of the day.
Oh one other thing. I had a very small allowance which I blew on slot cars instead of trains at the time because they were the rage in those days.
30+ years later, I STILL have an allowance. =) and a house, cars, wife, land etc etc etc etc... =)
R. T. POTEET wrote:Look, ever since I came up here on the forum I have seen a great many postings by newbies stating that they are just getting started and are going to build a 4 X 8 layout and where would be a good place to start? Response number one is inevitably from one who has been in the hobby for umpteen hundred and forty-seven years and is on layout number eight hundred and sixty-five and the best place to begin is to consider expending three thousand four-hundred sixty-three dollars and forty-five cents and buying sixteen locomotives and an elaborate XYZ DCC system complete with sound and . . . . . . . . . . I think you get my point!!!Response number two is from the guy who has a six-thousand square foot basement and his main objective in life is to pooh-pooh 4 X 8s!!! That first layout can be one of the most eye-opening experiences you will ever encounter! Build a layout and learn how to operate it!!!
Boy not me! I'm a huge advocate of starting small with some test-bed layout -- I built four of them myself before embarking on my basement filling mammoth -- my HO Siskiyou Line.
There's nothing like getting your feet wet with small layouts first to teach you the ropes of the hobby. Only THEN do you know enough to embark on building that dream layout.
Consider this: would you want to make all your big-boo-boo type mistakes on a small layout you built to learn with, or mess up your dream pike with crappy modeling done while you were learning?
All valid points, some I will follow, some I will not. I will say Ill have to reveiw the turning radius a bit more. I did purchase a 6 pack of 18" to get an Idea of the radius Id want. I don't want to chance it, so I guess Ill model to a 22" radius curve. I plan on using flex as much as possible.
I will stick with a larger layout. I may how ever start on the first 4x8 section leaving the leads to the other end of the dog bone open for andvancement. Im just one of those people who will not be happy with a circle. I think thats why most kids get bored with starter sets anyways. Not challenging enough. But I guess this is open to other opinions. Ill admit I have a ton to learn, but Im not your average cat, I do have common sense and also very mechanical inclined. But I will take warnings into consideration, Ill most likely return here a ton of times and ask the same question over to make sure.
I did want to make sure that any loco could be upgraded to DCC. I will most likely get one of the two suggested controllers, I have no proble spending 100-200 on one. I do not fear wiring, I have worked in a prototype(automotive) shop for 10 years. Ive done more them my share of wiring and building of fixtures. As for line loss, I have no problem running from the center of the layout in both directions, making the longest run at maybe 12 ft... So I figure 16 gauge will be fine, if not, its no big deal, I got it for free But I still have research to do. As for DCC operations, like others have said, I need to see it in operation to understand its full operation potential.
As for being happy with my layout, that will most likley never happen... Ill be changing it here and there, Im sure it will not look like Mr. Rod Stewarts I saw in one of the most recent MRR, but I hope to come close some day. Amazing work Ive seen arond the net that you people have done, a far cry from the 12 benches my dad had in the garage when I was a munchkin. Dont get me wrong Im sure it looked great for the early 80's, but he did not have all the tools and resources the we all have today.
So far I have aquired 2 cars(I have more from my dads set, but yet to claim them from my mothers, as well as a set down at the Henry Ford Museum my mother donated shortly after my father passed.) Anyways 1 plug door Soo Line box car and a 40' Michigan Alkali tanker car, both Athern. 3 sections of SN track, the 18" pack of curves and 2 buildings.. Merchants Row 3 and the Hardware store I showed off a few weeks ago. The Merchants Row building is about 75% done... Ill be posting pics soon. I have some figures on the way to, all stuff I know I want in my layout. Anyways, Im sure Im boring you by now.
Right after Christmas I plan on picking up some wood to start my mess, errr, my layout. Ive yet to nail down a sketch, but I do have a good idea I want. I neet to see it in front of me to imagine what I want... or maybe Im just telling myself that. I hope Im not breaking to many MRR unwritten rules and I get sent to the delete file...
Ok, let me have it...
First, Welcome!
Second, where will you be starting? Is your focus on acurately representing a prototype, era, location? Or is your focus on operations, perhaps with a prototype in mind or perhaps freelanced? What aspects of the hobby interest you - trackage, operations, rolling stock, gadgets, scenery?
Of a practical matter, do you have a starting layout dimension and track plan in mind? You might consider using a software program like Atlas Right Track or Xtrkcad to get your layout down on paper. The software will force you to "draw only what will actually fit". Once you have a track plan conceived (and it doesn't have to be the final plan, it can be a "sandbox" plan just to get some experience), you can consider benchwork material selection (foam, homosote, plywood, cork roadbed). Then build it and get some practical experience. Then expand....
JIm
I guess it will fall under freelance. it will not be on any particular era or line. It will consist of Michigan based companies, sites and so on... I like the look of newer diesel engines so I guess if it was to be a certain era, then it would be post mid 70's to present time. As to what exactly it will have on the layout. Ore mine, Small engine house, outter edge of a city, farm land a couple bridges over river(s). Basically most of what you would find in the UP of Michigan, but not exactly "correct" to the time or place, so I guess, yes, it will be freelance...
I do not believe I will "operate" it like some of you do, but who knows. Id like it to be very functional. a working switching yard. As Ive stated in my other posts and in other threads. I have, I do not have an exact plan, and I think if I sat down and forced myself to do so, Id never finish it or Id end up with something Im not happy with. I do have the programs you listed for layout design.. I have played with them to figure out some of the limitations of track design. I will construct the layout of wood, plywood, most likely 1/2" to 3/4" and do most of the scenery with an extruded foam. Cork roadbed is planned, I have allready been experimenting on some old wood with track and cork to get an idea.
ArcticCat wrote: All valid points, some I will follow, some I will not. I will say Ill have to reveiw the turning radius a bit more. I did purchase a 6 pack of 18" to get an Idea of the radius Id want. I don't want to chance it, so I guess Ill model to a 22" radius curve. I plan on using flex as much as possible. I will stick with a larger layout. I may how ever start on the first 4x8 section leaving the leads to the other end of the dog bone open for andvancement. Im just one of those people who will not be happy with a circle. I think thats why most kids get bored with starter sets anyways. Not challenging enough. But I guess this is open to other opinions. Ill admit I have a ton to learn, but Im not your average cat, I do have common sense and also very mechanical inclined. But I will take warnings into consideration, Ill most likely return here a ton of times and ask the same question over to make sure. I did want to make sure that any loco could be upgraded to DCC. I will most likely get one of the two suggested controllers, I have no proble spending 100-200 on one. I do not fear wiring, I have worked in a prototype(automotive) shop for 10 years. Ive done more them my share of wiring and building of fixtures. As for line loss, I have no problem running from the center of the layout in both directions, making the longest run at maybe 12 ft... So I figure 16 gauge will be fine, if not, its no big deal, I got it for free But I still have research to do. As for DCC operations, like others have said, I need to see it in operation to understand its full operation potential. As for being happy with my layout, that will most likley never happen... Ill be changing it here and there, Im sure it will not look like Mr. Rod Stewarts I saw in one of the most recent MRR, but I hope to come close some day. Amazing work Ive seen arond the net that you people have done, a far cry from the 12 benches my dad had in the garage when I was a munchkin. Dont get me wrong Im sure it looked great for the early 80's, but he did not have all the tools and resources the we all have today. So far I have aquired 2 cars(I have more from my dads set, but yet to claim them from my mothers, as well as a set down at the Henry Ford Museum my mother donated shortly after my father passed.) Anyways 1 plug door Soo Line box car and a 40' Michigan Alkali tanker car, both Athern. 3 sections of SN track, the 18" pack of curves and 2 buildings.. Merchants Row 3 and the Hardware store I showed off a few weeks ago. The Merchants Row building is about 75% done... Ill be posting pics soon. I have some figures on the way to, all stuff I know I want in my layout. Anyways, Im sure Im boring you by now. Right after Christmas I plan on picking up some wood to start my mess, errr, my layout. Ive yet to nail down a sketch, but I do have a good idea I want. I neet to see it in front of me to imagine what I want... or maybe Im just telling myself that. I hope Im not breaking to many MRR unwritten rules and I get sent to the delete file... Ok, let me have it...
Keep in mind that 22" radius in HO is still considered fairly sharp, you either won't be able to run longer equipment (Walthers passenger cars and 85' Trailer Train flats for piggybacks) or what you can run isn't going to look that great - especially if you're modelling modern times (1970-today). If you were modelling an earlier time with small steam engines / smaller four-axle diesels and 40' freight cars you could get by (but still would have trouble with the passenger cars). 30" would be a better target if you're starting a new layout, and no.6 mainline turnouts.
I would lean towards starting out with DCC. So many engines now come with DCC included (although not always with the best quality decoders) and most any engine made since the 1990's is going to be "DCC ready" (ready to accept a "plug and play" decoder or a "drop in" light board replacement - both regular decoders and sound-equipped decoders BTW). Remember too that wiring is EASIER in DCC, not harder !! You don't have to go thru the hassle of setting up two or more DC controllers with a myriad of toggle switches to control dozens of power blocks so you can run two engines at the same time - the DCC system allows you to hook up two wires to the track and go...yes, if you have a larger layout, you'll want to hook up wires to several places on the layout so power is even over the layout, but it's the same power all over.
I would try to decide what you really want to do and concentrate on getting a few high quality engines, preferably with both DCC and sound. (Especially when starting it's very easy to find yourself wanting "one of everything"!!)
ArcticCat wrote:I guess it will fall under freelance. it will not be on any particular era or line. It will consist of Michigan based companies, sites and so on... I like the look of newer diesel engines so I guess if it was to be a certain era, then it would be post mid 70's to present time. As to what exactly it will have on the layout. Ore mine, Small engine house, outter edge of a city, farm land a couple bridges over river(s). Basically most of what you would find in the UP of Michigan, but not exactly "correct" to the time or place, so I guess, yes, it will be freelance... I do not believe I will "operate" it like some of you do, but who knows. Id like it to be very functional. a working switching yard. As Ive stated in my other posts and in other threads. I have, I do not have an exact plan, and I think if I sat down and forced myself to do so, Id never finish it or Id end up with something Im not happy with. I do have the programs you listed for layout design.. I have played with them to figure out some of the limitations of track design. I will construct the layout of wood, plywood, most likely 1/2" to 3/4" and do most of the scenery with an extruded foam. Cork roadbed is planned, I have allready been experimenting on some old wood with track and cork to get an idea. Ken
Sounds like you've got a reasonable handle on things. I'd say charge ahead. You can get plenty of advice here when you're ready.
Jim
yea, im trying.. but Im sure there will be a few aspects of this addiction oops... hobby... Then you all can say, ha, should of listened... anyways... Im getting there.
That 3/4 is indeed very heavy. I myself plan 1/2 Inch Birch with 2 inch foam on top except at one or two bridges where a little bit of benchwork will be built.
I thought I will go with 22" radius and call it good. But I have always loved big steam and cannot stand anything less than 28" so even although the smaller radius will give good operation possibilities I wont be happy with it. My solution is 23 and 31" and add on after a small demo in the future. It is a finite plan that will take years to complete if I have that long.
But I can run anything I want to within limits on that 32 inch. I know that 86 foot hi cubes are going to show up at some point in 2008 for the B&O which represents the closest big railroad to where I am pretending to be. My problem is ensuring that hi cube doesnt wipe out my stuff as it passes through.
jfugate wrote:. . . . . . . . . . I'm a huge advocate of starting small with some test-bed layout -- I built four of them myself before embarking on my basement filling mammoth -- my HO Siskiyou Line. There's nothing like getting your feet wet with small layouts first to teach you the ropes of the hobby. Only THEN do you know enough to embark on building that dream layout.Consider this: would you want to make all your big-boo-boo type mistakes on a small layout you built to learn with, or mess up your dream pike with crappy modeling done while you were learning?
Those who not remember their history are condemned to repeat it. - George Santayana
I have always had a DC setup, and now I am redoing the layout AGAIN. My question is: Is it worth starting the layout in DC and then changing over to DCC? Money is kinda tight right now. I just don't have the money to jump right in. I am sure I can lay all the track and etc, but I guess the engines can be in DCC. I would love the controlling several engines and not having to wire up alot of track.
I will have to look into it more. Oh, I am glad someone asked. I was going to oneday.
"Rust, whats not to love?"
Robby P. wrote:. . . . . . . . . . Money is kinda tight right now. . . . . . . . . .