Last photos of T-Rex
The New Haven never saw her coming !!
One last step on the high voltage center rail --- and she meets her fate !
Castle Canyon RR Web Site - T-Rex Page
http://home.mchsi.com/~ironmaster1961/wsb/html/view.cgi-home.html-.html
If your camera is like mine, Corey, it may have a setting on your mode dial for auto shutter control, or auto shutter timer. I use the setting called Av by Canon, but you may have something that fits. Then, what I do is to get as much light on the subject as I can, even plugging lights into the walls and shining them onto the scene. The camera meters the light and shuts down the iris, which has the effect of increasing the overall focal length of the viewing system. In turn, really bright lights leading to automatically stopped down iris resulting in longer focal length, your depth of field and focus will improve....usually. At least, that has led to some improvement in my own attempts to minimize the "also-rans".
MilwaukeeRoad, I had meant to compliment you on your model...very nicely done. I hope to see it in place sometime soon.
-Crandell
Corey, I am happy for you that our lighting is working out as well as you had hoped. I have fiddled with photography a lot, taken many photos over the past 10 months. I figure my ratio of those suitable for WPF to the number actually set up and shot must be close to 15/1 in favour of the junk. As jktrains is asking you to find out how to do, setting your camera so that you compose the image, and then depress the shutter release, allowing the internal timer to release the shutter once you hands are removed and the camera is dead still, is what means success for me if my idea of an image is going to work at all. As soon as I forget that darned timer, I am back to junk....AGAIN!
Big improvement in that before and after series. Wow, and congrats.
Love the Chessie steamer. I also like the stenciled/decaled bridge...very cool.
GARRY
HEARTLAND DIVISION, CB&Q RR
EVERYWHERE LOST; WE HUSTLE OUR CABOOSE FOR YOU
Take it easy on me.. This is thee SECOND kit I have EVER built.
" border="0" />
Thanks for the time.
Hello. I certainly am impressed with all the photos ahead of this post. Great stuff, everybody! C&O 2-6-6-2 is really nice.
Here's my scene with my newly comleted shed for the track department. The Prairie type engine behind my shed would look small next to that C&O engine! The boxcar between the caboose and the 2-6-2 had been the previous shed in this location without trucks and couplers. Now it's back in revenue service.
alco's forever!!!!! Majoring in HO scale Minorig in O scale:)
Corey i like the buildings
MA Bruce Great weathering !
We had a painting party and my friend Art painted and weathered My 2-6-6-2 H5
He also applied the decals
Before
An undecorated Bachman 2-6-6-2 With a Tsunami Heavy Steam decoder
After Painting Decals and Weathering
I was very pleased
TerryinTexas
See my Web Site Here
http://conewriversubdivision.yolasite.com/
This is my latest layout work, the roundhouse project styrene concrete flooring is now finished:
And started my first scenery foundation base on the layout too:
Ryan BoudreauxThe Piedmont Division Modeling The Southern Railway, Norfolk & Western & Norfolk Southern in HO during the merger eraCajun Chef Ryan
Corey,
Two other things to remember: 1) Use plenty of light and turn off the flash; 2) Use the shutter timer so you do not move the camera while pressing/releasing the shutter button.
jktrains
secondhandmodeler wrote:Thanks Bruce. I snapped these pictures quick before I left the house yesterday morning. I was taking pictures to see the lighting difference between older pictures and now. I have had a hard time getting a good depth of field picture. My camera has only preset settings for adjustments. It does have a macro setting, but I didn't use it for these pictures. Any idea what auto settings I should try to use? It has auto, shakey hand, landscape, portrait,self portrait, and movie.
It's going to be tough without manual settings. I'd put the camera on a tripod (to eliminate any blur that might come from camera movement) and try all the auto settings on the same scene. That way you can compare and see which works best.
Ideally, you want to be able to set a camera into an aperture priority setting. This allows you to manually set the aperture and the camera will set the shutter speed accordingly. The higher the aperature setting (which translates to a smaller lens opening) the better depth of field you will get. Trouble is, the shutter speed will slow down which requires a tripod to prevent the camera from moving during the shot.
I'm sure others with more photo experince than me can chime in and give you more specific advice. But your work is nice.
Nice work Corey. The lighting in your pictures is good, but the focus needs some work. Maybe a higher aperture setting will help (which will require a tripod as the shutter speed will slow down)?
I also use Helicon software which allows several pictures (of the exact same scene at different focus points) to be merged into one picture. It makes a big difference as I have a hard time with depth of field in N-scale.
Here's a shot of a pair of boxcars I weathered a while back:
I havn't started this thread in a while. It's not to often that I have something to show. As usual, these are progress shots.
Here are a few pictures with my newly improved lighting. Now, if I could learn to take better pictures I'd be in business!
A shot with my newly laid, concrete sidewalks. The floating building on the right will receive a side walk shortly.
A shot of the only ballasted area of the layout.
Coming round the upper level to the bridge.
Last but not least, the new, old sidewalk. This is still in progress to get the right coloring.