Took the plunge...just bought my DCC system!!!!

[shawnee]

Ok, I guess I'm a bit excited and enthusiastic, but I just took the plunge...after doing the research and reading and listening to informed hobbyists, my new DCC system is on the way.

Here's what I decided upon:

NCE Power Cab System - the basic package, $149 at Tony's Trains

NCE Auto Switch - for the programming track/loco protection  $24.95

Three DCC Specialities PSX AR Auto Reversers (ok, I'm going a bit overboard with reverse sections, but it should add fun, and it's a big reason to me to go DCC)  $48, x 3 = $144

Total cost, not including shipping and taxes:  $318

I've also socked away $125 for decoders, which should get me around 5 decoders.  I'm looking at some relatively basic decoders to start, silent running for now, just to get going.  I've identified the  NCE D14SRP or NCE D13SRP.  I'm still a bit baffled by the decoder differences and compatibility with certain locos - it's the last thing I've researched.  I just want some that plug straight away into my DCC-ready Kato SD 40, SD40-2. GP 35 and SD 45 locos, I think that's the D14SRPs from what I can tell thus far.  Any advice here would be much appreciated....esp. if it can help me save a few bucks.   I'm planning on placing the decoder orders in the few days.

So total for the NCE starter system, the auto reversers plus 4-5 "starter" decoders is about $463.  It was a bit to swallow in a lump , but in the scheme of things, really not that much when I figured on the costs  and time I've already laid out...something i really don't want to think too much about.     And it's about  a lifetime of use/enjoyment type of investment, so I thought I'd make a solid investment. 

I obviously could have also saved $100 bucks by cutting down on the reversers, but I really wanted them, I think they'll add a lot and I figured the time to do them was now, at the early stage of my new layout.  Guess I won't eat out in a restaurant for a while. 

Folks at Tony's Trains are excellent in service, gave some good advice, as did the folks here on the forum.

It's pretty exciting move for me.  On to the brave new world!!!!

 

 

[simon1966]

Good for you.  I hope you enjoy your conversion to DCC as much as I have.!

[NevinW]

Once you get it up and running you'll be amazed and how much it improves your railroad.  You will never go back to DC.  It is fun running a engine like the prototype.  -  Nevin

[Anonymous]

You will be happy! I have the Power cab for my workbench and programming track and I love it. All of the big layouts I run on here in SoCal including the Lamesa club layout in San Diego run NCE.

 

Keith Turley/ Details West

[FloridaPanhandler]

Congrats!  I'm about to travel down the same path, I hope to take the plunge into DCC in a few months.  The modelers in my area also recommend NCE, so that's what I'm leaning towards, although I haven't done much research yet.

[BRAKIE]

Shawnee,Congrats! You got a very nice system!

[Anonymous]

Congratulations.

I recall when I bought the Chief set. I drove my LHS crazy with questions.

Careful now, breathe slow and take things one day at a time. It is but a single bout of confusion that lurks between your new found joy and the funny farm. =)

Enjoy

[jktrains]

I've also socked away $125 for decoders, which should get me around 5 decoders.  I'm looking at some relatively basic decoders to start, silent running for now, just to get going.  I've identified the  NCE D14SRP or NCE D13SRP.  I'm still a bit baffled by the decoder differences and compatibility with certain locos - it's tjhe last thing I;'ve researched.  I just want some that plug straight away into my DCC-ready Kato SD 40, SD40-2. GP 35 and SD 45 locos, I think that's the D14SRPs from what I can tell thus far.  Any advice here would be much appreciated....esp. if it can help me save a few bucks.   I'm planning on placing the decoder orders in the few days.

So total for the NCE starter system, the auto reversers plus 4-5 "starter" decoders is about $463.  It was a bit to swallow in a lump , but in the scheme of things, really not that much when I figured on the costs  and time I've already laid out...something i really don't want to think too much about.     And it's about  a lifetime of use/enjoyment type of investment, so I thought I'd make a solid investment. 

Shawnee,

I'm sure you'll enjoy the system.  Regarding decoders for the locos you mentioned, the D14SRP should work well for the SD40 and SD40-2.  That's what I've used in mine.  You will need to either remove the weight from the inside roof of the shell so the decoder can fit and won;t short out on the weight.  I've done this with no real effect on pulling capacity - they pretty heavy engines to start with.  The other option is to remove a portion of the weight.  Regarding the GP35, depending on the age or what run it was prodcued will determine what circuit board is inside.  The early run GP35s don't have a socket or plug on the circuit board.  The easiest is to replace the entire board with a DA-SR.  The SD45, I don;t remember what type of board is inside they one I have.  I haven't installed a decoder in it yet.

One last thing, I think you've taken the right approach and have the right attitude about going DCC, that being that it is an investment into your lifetime of enjoyment.  You may buy more engines, but ideally you won't be buying a new system for a long time.

jktrains

[tstage]

Congrats on the new acquisition(s), Shawnee!   You'll really enjoy operating with DCC!  Don't forget to give us a report when you have a chance to try out your system.

Tom

[richg1998]

I have the same and I like it. Good choice. The biggest issue I see with the NCE are people not reading the manuals and then crying for help.

Here is a Yahoo NCE group. Just be aware that there are a couple geezers with tender sensibilities. There is a lot of info in the Files and Photos sections. Just read your manuals first before you ask a question. Also look through the past messages of decoders and systems. I know, that should be common sense but some people have no clue.

Mark Gurries is the list administrator and usually intercedes before it gets too rough.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NCE-DCC/

Marcus here uses the NCE systems.

http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/nswmn/index.htm

Yahoo has a variety of DCC groups for different makes. 

 Good luck.

Rich 

[rrinker]

Check Empire Northerrn for the decoders. If you do a bit of soldering instead of plug in, you can get 10 decoders for $120 - the D13SRJ. I use this in just about everything.

 

                                        --Randy
 

[NeO6874]

I've also socked away $125 for decoders, which should get me around 5 decoders.  I'm looking at some relatively basic decoders to start, silent running for now, just to get going.  I've identified the  NCE D14SRP or NCE D13SRP. 

 

Not sure what the difference between the D13SRP and D13SRJ decoders are, but Empire Northern Models has a 10 pack of the D13SRJ decoders for $120.  There is also a 1,2,and 4 pack for $13, $25, and $50, respectively.

If they can be used in place of the ones you were looking at, I would highly reccommend getting them from Empire Northern.  I bought the 10-pack in May, and have had no problems with the decoders since installing them. Granted I'm using them in their DC mode for the time being, but the club switches between DC and DCC control every meeting it seems.  However some of the guys have DCC layouts at home, so when we go visit their layouts I can actually use my locos .

[Driline]

Excellent Choice! Just remember to plug your NCE powercab into the LEFT socket, not the right one, otherwise you'll go nowhere

I also bought an extra controller as well. The Cab-04E. For an extra 25 bucks though, I'd just as soon buy a PRO CAB. I really like the LCD display. Its a little easier to use in my opinion.

[ShadowNix]

Good luck!  I got my NCE Powerhouse Pro (5A) system 2 years ago and could not be happier.  One thing...USE YOUR PROGRAMMING TRACK.... trust me.... otherwise PPPPPOOOOPPPP go the decoders when (not IF), when you screw up.  No worries, if you do this, NCE will replace ANY decoder for like $10 + S&H with one of their own equivalents (of course, if it is a Lenz Silver or Gold, it is not QUITE the same....).  Seriously, enjoy... I love mine... now, I have to go make some money to buy a second cab.  One for my boys / guests... ciao!

 

Brian

[EXCELSIORSS]

Congrats on the new system. I jumped in about the same time as you, just picked up my Zephyr at the LHS two weeks ago. DCC is a hobby in its self. I hear that system you have is a great one. I just bought Digitrax because my club uses it, and my hobby shop supports that brand. It is nice, and I like it but I need to hire a NASA scientist to teach me how to work it.

[rrinker]

I've also socked away $125 for decoders, which should get me around 5 decoders.  I'm looking at some relatively basic decoders to start, silent running for now, just to get going.  I've identified the  NCE D14SRP or NCE D13SRP. 

 

Not sure what the difference between the D13SRP and D13SRJ decoders are, but Empire Northern Models has a 10 pack of the D13SRJ decoders for $120.  There is also a 1,2,and 4 pack for $13, $25, and $50, respectively.

If they can be used in place of the ones you were looking at, I would highly reccommend getting them from Empire Northern.  I bought the 10-pack in May, and have had no problems with the decoders since installing them. Granted I'm using them in their DC mode for the time being, but the club switches between DC and DCC control every meeting it seems.  However some of the guys have DCC layouts at home, so when we go visit their layouts I can actually use my locos .

 

 The D13SRJ has a 9-pin connector at the decoder and ends in plain wires. The D13SRP ends in a 8-pin plug.In singles the D13SRP seems to be about $7 more than the SRJ - for $7 each I can solder a couple of wires. Or even buy some 8-pin plugs and sodler the wires to them myself. I usually hard wire most decoders but I do have a few 8-pin plugs in my supplies.

 

                                  --Randy
 

[shawnee]

Thanks all...and I'll take a look at the decoder options you describe.  At this point, I feel really comfortable about the NCE system and its set up...and can't wait to get it and get started. But the decoder issues do still seem a tad mysterious.  It's guess it's just one of those things I just need to learn about and do.  So for my first decoders I just want to keep it simple, and plug-in.  My Katos are good for that. 

[shawnee]

Ok, de-riddle me this.  What is the difference between an "8-pin Board", an "8-pin NMRA" and "Plug N' Play".  They seemingly are three different types.  ??? 

I haven't found a lot explanation of the differentation of these.  My Katos have a "DCC Socket"...i assume that means an "8 pin NMRA"?

 Thanks...!

[mononguy63]

Now that you're in deep in DCC, feel free to send that unwanted DC walkaround controller directly to me

 

 

Jim (still using the gold MRC Throttlepack)

[grayfox1119]

Way to go Shawnee !!!!!! I have an NCE system, you will be happy with it, and NCE folks are very good to communicate with.

[jktrains]

Shawnee,

As in the NCE line of decoders, almost all the HO decoders are essentially the same, the contain the same basic functions for motor control, silent running, lighting effects etc.  The primary difference is simply their size, shape and method of installation.  Some decoders are built as replacement to factory boards, some plug-in to a socket on the factory board and some are meant to be hard wired to the loco, more of a generic design such as the DA13SR(J).  With NCE the suffix 'SR' indicates silent running.

I'll echo a previous comment - always test a new installation on the programming track.  This will avoid blown decoders and takes very little time.

jktrains

[wjstix]

Ok, de-riddle me this.  What is the difference between an "8-pin Board", an "8-pin NMRA" and "Plug N' Play".  They seemingly are three different types.  ??? 

I haven't found a lot explanation of the differentation of these.  My Katos have a "DCC Socket"...i assume that means an "8 pin NMRA"?

 Thanks...!

They're all describing the same thing. There are three types of decoders:

"Plug-in" have the 8-pin setup, you remove the dummy plug and plug in a decoder.

"Drop-in" where you replace the lightboard with a decoder shaped like the lightboard (as found in Atlas, Kato and other locos) and

"Hard-wire" where you have to solder the wires to the leads for the motor etc.

BTW back to the original post about choosing decoders...I think a lot of people think that you have to do like 40 CV settings to get a decoder to work. You don't!! I would try to get decoders that have a lot of options (different lighting effects, Back EMF "cruise control" etc.) and install them. You don't HAVE to use all those effects now, but it's nice to have them if you do decide to use them...at least, to me, it would be better to do that than to install really basic decoders, only to find down the road you have to replace them to get what you want. 

Plug in the decoder, put it on the programming track and search for the ID no. If "03" comes up, follow your systems directions to change the ID No. (preferably to the locomotive's no.) and then put it on the layout and run it !! You can always do other settings (momentum etc.) later. 

[NeO6874]

<snip>

 The D13SRJ has a 9-pin connector at the decoder and ends in plain wires. The D13SRP ends in a 8-pin plug.In singles the D13SRP seems to be about $7 more than the SRJ - for $7 each I can solder a couple of wires. Or even buy some 8-pin plugs and sodler the wires to them myself. I usually hard wire most decoders but I do have a few 8-pin plugs in my supplies.

 

                                  --Randy
 

thanks for clarifying that randy.  Would I be correct then in assuming that the -SRJ decoders could be swapped into any loco that uses the 9-pin plug?

[wjstix]

You can buy what I guess we could call "adapters" that have a 9-pin receptacle on one end and an 8-pin plug on the other. Say you have a "hardwire" decoder with 9 wires sticking out of it, the wires are part of a 9-pin "harness" that snaps into the decoder, you can remove that and plug in a harness that will have an 8-pin plug on the other end instead. I used to get them from a co. that is unfortunately out of business now, but I'm sure other people make them.

[R. T. POTEET]

A year ago I was not particularly interested in DCC - at least as far as locomotive control went - and so I tended to ignore these DCC postings here on the forum. I can't say exactly where my attitude began to change but I, like Shawnee has done, I am prepared to take the DCC plunge, and like Shawnee, based upon recommendations I am (probably) going with an NCE system. I have had only limited contact with DCC and it probably sounds just a little crazy but one of my likes about NCE is the heft - perhaps 'feel' might be a better term - of their throttles; I just cannot quite get comfortable with Digitrax's throttles.

One of the things which tickled my interest was the discovery that there are some software packages out there designed to interface DCC systems to computer control. There have been numerous topics here on the forum dealing with design/programming problems involving DCC and as, I read these, it began to turn over in my mind that these problems could, most likely. be breached with computer programming. I feel comfortable with Pulse Position Modulation, having encountered it in my Air Force AFSC - Radio Relay/Microwave/Multiplexing. I have really only given some cursory thought to this area but I did do a very slapdash flowchart which indicated that, most likely, I would be dealing with nine to eleven thousand addresses of code, and for you non-programmers out there, THAT'S A HECKUVA LOT OF CODE!!! 

I am, at the same time, getting a little interested in sound; except for those sound systems installed in 'very large' locomotives - G Scale and O Scale - I have been just a little disappointed in sound reproduction in N Scale. It is, however, getting noticably better and I think that there might be some kind of technology breakthrough on the horizon in this area opening a marked improvement in sound quality for N Scale. I don't have the slightest idea exactly what that technology breakthrough might be but, as I said, sound has shown marked improvement in the past ten years indicating that the developers are giving it something besides summary attention in their laboratories.

Anyway, Shawnee, I am excited because you are excited and I hope that, despite frustrations which might lie ahead, your excitement does not wane. Keep us posted,  

[rrinker]

<snip>

 The D13SRJ has a 9-pin connector at the decoder and ends in plain wires. The D13SRP ends in a 8-pin plug.In singles the D13SRP seems to be about $7 more than the SRJ - for $7 each I can solder a couple of wires. Or even buy some 8-pin plugs and sodler the wires to them myself. I usually hard wire most decoders but I do have a few 8-pin plugs in my supplies.

 

                                  --Randy
 

thanks for clarifying that randy.  Would I be correct then in assuming that the -SRJ decoders could be swapped into any loco that uses the 9-pin plug?

 Yup - you mean like some of the newer Athearns? Just remove the 'dummy' board and plug in the decoder - although check the way the lights are connected as sometimes the diodes and/or resistors are on the 'dummy' boards.

 And this is why I don't mind hard wiring the decoders - you can buy the 'dummy' plugs for the 9-pin plug/socket sets (Digitrax sells them, I'm sure other do as well) so if I want to remove a decoder and restore the loco to DC operation I can just plug in a dummy board. Or if the decoder fails, I can repalce it easily. That's why I use the SRJ and not the SR, the SR just has wires with no 9-pin plug, so replacing that deocder would mean cutting the wires. 

 

                                   --Randy 

[riogrande5761]

Great choice.  While I have a Digitrax Chief in storage with my trains, NCE makes an excellent DCC system and I'd be as happy or maybe more so with it.  Have fun!