Hi all, saw a very timely discussion for me about the Bachmann EZ DCC system (thanks Grayson) because I'm just about to run up the same inevitable question...to DCC or not DCC.
I'm just at the stage of wiring my layout and thinking about it more extensively. It's a bigger layout than I ever had before...10x12x8, essentially, a level and a half. And all the DC wiring on a layout this size seems a headache...3 reversing sections, at least two cabs, plenty of spurs with all the Atlas Twins, Controllers, Connectors and Selectors, plus about 10 wire feeds. Trying to figure out how to wire it up so that I can operate two trains on two cabs in relatively close proximity, like passing sidings.
I think I might just be better off with DCC....to go ahead and take the plunge to a new level. I've been avoiding it because it all seems complicated and dense, and when it comes to electrical networks I like to keep it simple because I'm not a techy person. But thinking about operating my new layout, I do now see the point of running the trains, not the layout. And it's such a cool and exciting layout I'm planning, I'm very psyched about it, seems a waste to run around the DCC issue forever.
So I'm also asking for some guidance, based upon my particular circumstances:
1) the layout size is as large as it will ever get without me moving, which isn't likely.
2) I'm planning for operations...servings mills and mines and such...pretty basic operations, but operational layout nonetheless.
3) I would like to run two trains simulataneously, maybe three, but anticipate never running more than that. It's a personal layout for me and my son, probably one operator at a time.
4) My son is 8, and I don't want something that he can't figure out. Or something that I can't figure out but that he can figure out. I want to keep it as SIMPLE as possible!!! For a dummy like me. The DCC thing seems so bloody intimidating with the programming and all.
5) I have Kato Unitrack, HO. I really like it. My old powerpack is a Kato powerpack, which I'll probably retain to control the switches independent of the DCC system - which is fine for me. It was a pretty good powerpack for the proprietary Kato system. But I assume that I'll have to move beyond the Kato electrical connection system with DCC...no more plug and play, except for the switches
6) I have no interest in sound or smoke. I like the silence and escape of MR...not the noise. Just my preference. I'm also peculiar in that I get no thrill from steam...I'm all about modern diesel.
7) I have three reverse loops or sections...does DCC handle these easier, like without having to throw the Atlas connections? It seems messy to operate with DC wiring for more than a distant loop or two.
8) I would like to have a hand throttle system.
9) I'd like to do multiple unit lashups.
10) My engines are predominantly Kato, Atlas and Proto. Most of them are recent vintage and many have DCC-ready plug sections. Is it as simple as getting a DCC decoder and plugging it in? Or is it the hassle to put in the decoders and program them, like I occasionally hear about? Are there special requirements or special decoders needed for different DCC systems or engines?
11) How much power would I need for a deck and a half? Does the DCC system provide all that?
I was thinking of Digitrx Zephyr vs. Bachmann EZ DCC. Which would be better for me in these circumstances? Are there any simpler/better than these? Bachmann seems easy and straightforward, from what I hear. Nice n' basic. And I don't think that my needs will exponentially expand. But my experience in past with Bachmann stuff is that it is cheap in quality and durability. The Zephyr system is still affordable to me, but is it considerably more difficult to master? Does it have more capability than I need, as outlined?
I've gone ahead an read a bit from Tony's Trains and Loys, but they seem more like tech manuals and didn't really advance me in my decision about systems.
So here, up against the wall, before I wire up for DC --- should I just go ahead and get one of these DCC systems. That's a decision that I ask for input on. I know ya'll have a lot kore knowledge and experience than me on this, so I hope you'll lend a guiding hand.
Many thanks, and I apologize if these questions seem so basic.
*and geez, sorry for such a long post!*
I'm no expert, but here are my responses/opinions:
1) Your wiring will have to be as complicated, or as simple, as is necessary to operate what your trackplan provides. Your reversing loops will need gapping no matter which way you go, and you'll need a DPDT or an auto-reverser no matter which way you go.
2) Power is relative. As you draw more of it by wanting more "work" done by more locos and stationary devices, you'll need more power. If you really are committed to staying with at most three locos, then the EZ-Command will do it for you since you also want to eschew sound. About the time you get to four locos, though, you have no reserve....period.
3) Unless I am seriously misinformed, you can forget lashups with something as basic as the EZ-Command. You must manipulate at least three seperate CVs in your decoders on each locomotive, and the EZ-Command doesn't allow for that capability.
4) Different locos need different consideration to make them DCC capable. Even with one manufacturer, different runs of the same locomotive have different needs. I can't speak to the ones you list, but many here can, and I'm sure that the term "DCC ready" is not universally meaningful across the hobby...unfortunately.
When I started building my layout, I had the idea that I would run part DC and part DCC, because I had a number of really old engines and a couple of really new ones. As it turned out, the old engines were generally not worth trying to restore to running shape.
One day, I went out and bought the DCC system. I installed a decoder in one engine, and hooked it up. Within a half-hour, I was a 12-year-old kid again, having a blast with trains. I took the old DC power pack off the layout and put it on the floor under the layout. I knew that DCC really was the future, for the whole layout.
For a starter set, I'd get the Digitrax Zephyr. It has most of the capabilities of a much larger system, and it's expandable. It probably has enough power for your layout all by itself, particularly if you're not running sound engines. (Personally, I'm hooked on sound, which I didn't think would happen. No, not to me. Never. Ha.) If you do run out of power, you can add a booster unit.
DCC is not hard to set up and run. Most likely, the only thing you'll need to do is set the locomotive address, and that's a few easy keystrokes that are probably well-documented in the manual. (I've got a Lenz system myself, so I can't vouch for the Digitrax manuals.) Your son will have no trouble using it.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
I think you want DCC, and I think I'd choose the Zephyr. The wiring for what you want to do will be much easier with DCC. Your son will be able to run a train much more easily than with blocks and cabs. You can buy autoreverse controllers for the reversing sections. Installing decoders in locos with plug in connectors will generally be a snap. DCC really isn't more complicated at the level that you'll be using it, in my opinion. So, I'd just bite the bullet and go for it!
Jeff But it's a dry heat!
There's certainly nothing cheaper than the EZ Command System that I know of. I got mine for $53 at e-bay. Most other systems start around $175 and work their way up from there. I think Bachmann has an undeserved reputation for their recent products based on the junk they used to make. Both my EZ Command system and my four Bachmann DCC engines have performed well and the engine detail approaches what you'd normally pay three or four times as much. I also have Atlas, Kato, Athearn, and even a few old AHM engines. The newer Bachmann line, while still not up to the detail standards of something like an Athearn Genesis loco, is pretty darned good and they run and pull well.
The other advantage of the EZ Command system is that an 8 year old could operate it with no problem. It does not have the bells and whistles (pun intended ) of the Digitrax system and it's hard for a youngster to seriously screw up anything while using it. It does not have the ability to fine tune lashups like the Digitrax but I've found moust of my engines MU just fine even with DC. Still, it's something to consider if you're talking about running three or four engines of different makes and wheel arrangements as a common thing.
I guess it comes down to your budget and learning curve. If you have a big enough budget and are willing to spend the time digging through the manual, you can't go wrong with Digitrax. If you're trying to get you feet wet with DCC and can afford to look at the money you spend on a EZ Command system as the price of a lesson, that's where I would start.
Shawnee,
I would recommend you look closely at the NCE PowerCab system or MRC Prodigy Advance based on you comments and needs. My preference would be a PowerCab with the SmartBooster for the following reasons:
1) You want a hand held throttle system. The PowerCab is a completely hand-held system. You can add an additional hand-held throttle for as little as $75-80 with a Cab04e. The Cab04e is a basic 'road' cab. It has 1 big knob for the throttle control and a small keypad for selecting a loco to run. Either the Power or the 04e woud be very easy for your 8 yo son to operate. My 9 yo has been using either for many years.
2) A PowerCab with the SmartBooster will supply more than enough power to meet you operating requirements of 2 trains simultaneously, maybe three with some switching.
3) Even though you have no current interest in sound, the PowerCab has the ability to access all NMRA conforming functions thru F28.
4) Any DCC system that is properly wired, with the proper accessories, will be able to handle your reverse loops. The nice thing with DCC is that with the additional of a reversing circuit control of reversing sections becomes automated.
5) Multiple unit lashups are very easy to do with the NCE system. The PowerCab features a 2 line LCD display that easily walks the user through making a multi-unit lash-up. The Cab04e can not be used to make a consist, which is why it is considered a 'road' cab.
6) It is easy to add additional throttle plug in locations around the layout by installing Universal Throttle Panels (UTPs). With the addition of the Smart booster you can unplug and plug in anywhere.
7) The NCE system is also fully upgradeable meaning that as new NMRA standards are issued and as NCE updates its software you can take advantage of this by replacing the EPROM in the system. The upgrades are inexpensive - the last one was $20 and you do it yourself in about 5 minutes. The PowerCab is also good should you decide to move up to the full PowerHouse Pro system from NCE. The PowerCan then functions like a regular ProCab and you would then have three cabs to use.
8) If you locos are relatively new then adding a decoder should be as easy as selecting the right one to fit that particular model and plugging it in or replacing the factory install circuit board. Typically very easy.
A few more things to consider. I would stay away from the Bachman EZ DCC system. it will be way too basic to meet your needs as described. It is not walk around and not easy to do multiple units. You will hear from a lot of people expousing on the Zephyr system, but based on your desires it will not meet your requires regarding hand-held throttles (without adding additional throttles) nor ease of use for you or your 8 yo son.
A little story as to why I recommend the NCE system. I am an advisor with the local 4-H group that does model railroading. We just finished a week long set-up at the local county fair. We were using either a PowerCab system or a PowerhousePro with radio. On a 12'x32' layout with 2 loops we never had a problem from lack of power. Most of the kids using the system were between the ages of 9-13 years old. The only instruction they need on how to use the throttle was how to select a loco, control speed and stop in case of an emergency. All this took about 1 minute. No one ever had to ask how do I acquire a loco or control the speed, turn on the lights etc. The PowerCab/ProCab is so intuitively laid out that the kids new what to do just by looking at the throttle. Most times we were running 4 trains simultaneously and at times even 6 trains at once - 3 on each track.
In my opinion, the Zephyr is more difficult to learn and to use. The DT400 throttle is also difficult to use. The buttons are small and the display can be diffult to read with all the small displays. In support of this consider that there is an aftermarket book available on mastering the Zephyr system. The question posed by that is "If it is such a simple, beginner's type system then why is there a need for such a book?"
The other recommendation I always make to people who ask your same questions is to go online to each of the manufacturers' websites and download and read the manuals for the systems you're interested in. Which one can you read and understand? Is it written in plain, easy to understand language? Let that guide you, but I think if you make the jump to DCC you'll never be sorry and wonder why you didn't do it sooner.
jktrains
I'll take that look at NCE too then. I never heard it come up in the fourm conversations I looked about the easiest DCC systems before. Intuitive is good.
One thing that really appeals to me on the DCC systems is the auto reverser. I assume that I need to get auto-reversers for each reverse section, right? I may leave one of them as a regular atlas connection since it looks like the prices are steep for the auto reversers as an addition to the basic DCC system. Would I use an Atlas Twin on that DCC reverse section?
One of the reasons why DCC is a bit intimidating is below...a pic from a store site of the Zephyr auto reverser. I'm like...what do I do with that? Does this thing plug into the DCC set itself? Where the heck does it go?
In any case, I guess it's time for me to take a gulp and plunge into the wild, wonderful world of DCC. Do the publish a "Dummies Guide" to DCC?
I'm not very well known around here but, let me see if I can shed some light on this.
Your wiring WILL be much simpler with DCC, and the versatility of running your engines vs. running the track is always a big plus. Programming and such isn't that hard if you get an intuitive system and only care about the basics. You don't HAVE to use and understand all the fancy programming stuff with adjusting speed tables and variables and all unless you want to.
Addressing a few of your points:
3) Of course you can do this with either DC or DCC, but less complicated for your son when he just has to punch in a locomotive number rather than worry about a bunch of wired blocks, switches and such.
4) Said it above, but bears repeating, for basic functions DCC is not complex at all, it's very very simple.
5) Shouldn't be a problem with using the kato power pack to power the switch machines seperately from the DCC system powering your layout.
7) With DCC you can wire the reverse loop to an autoreverse module, no switch flipping. I am under the impression that this is not the case with DC. You will however still have to throw the actual turnout still, unless you get into complex programming is my understanding.
8) Almost all DCC manufacturer's offer hand held cabs. For ease of use I highly recommend the NCE Procab systems (Or PowerCab entry model, but might not have the juice in it for running much more than about 4 HO locos at a time.) After buying the Zephyr from Digitrax, and being mildly unimpressed, I hhd the opportunity to run a NCE system and it was jsut so much simpler to use and intuitive.
9) Again, very easy to do with most DCC systems, see above for recommendation.
10) If they have a plug for the decoder it really is as easy as plugging it in and fastening the decoder in, then assigning the loco an address. If they don't have the plug there's a bit of soldering involved to hardwire, but assuming the motor is isolated electrically even that is simple.
11) If you use multiple feeders to the track with a layout of your size it should be more of a question of how many locomotives you plan on running at once. I seem to recall reading that for HO allow up to .5 amps per loco. So for example for HO with the NCE Powercab (the $200 MSRP "beginner" setup) which provides 2 amps, you could run 4 HO locos. Maybe one of the HO guys will be able to give a better power use estimate? I'm N scale mostly and so far only run 2 locos at once. All decoders that are NMRA compliant will work with any system. Not all Decoders are the same quality though so do your research and make sure you have one that will do what you need. Digitrax does make some decoders that are direct replacements for the PC boards in certain locos, which are nice and easy to use.
Far as system goes, again I can't recommend NCE ProCab/Powercab systems enough. Find out from the HO guys how much power you need, and get the appropriate system. Bachmann is cheap and easy to use, but I don't think it allows thigns like consisting. The Zephyr is about the same price as the NCE PowerCab, but isn't a handheld throttle, and for me at least is a lot more complex.
Anyway those are my experiences with DCC the respective systems and all, hope it was even a little bit helpful. Good luck and have no matter which way you go!
Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam
Hey, y'all are right...took a look and the NCE Powercab entry-level system is just about the same price as a Digitrx Zephyr. $189 at Walthers, though I'm sure I could find it elsewhere for a few bucks less. If it's more intuitive to use that will certainly be good for me.
It is a hand held...which is cool, no extra stuff to add. Does the pic below contain everything I'll need to start (except for the auto reversers and decoders)?
Can it handle DC engines while i convert my small fleet?
Can one use as the DCC loco address the number you decalled on the side of the engine itself? That would be cool.
Does one autoreverser handle more than one reverse section? Or do you buy one for each section?
The other thing with the Bachmann EZ command is that you will be very very limited in your ability to program CVs to take advantage of all the things your new decoder equipped locos will be able to do.
Again, for ease of use I don;t think you can beat NCE. I mean, take a look at the Prodigy throttle and see how closely their throttle resembles a ProCab. You know what they say, imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. I don't see anyone imitating the Zephyr control unit - a fairly big box with a large display that is limited in what it can display with a large knob for speed control.
The EZ Command system, looks like the basic system is about $79 bucks, and the hand throttle is another $69. That's a little less than $150. A that point, from what I hear, it might be worth it to just get NCE or Zephyr..esp since the NCE is hand held anyway. Just hope it's easy to understand and use.
I guess the whole fear thing with DCC is it's complexity as an unknown, and as Jeff says the complexity of the CV programming and screwing it up. Is that a common thing that happens? Is it easy to fix?
Sorry for the oh-so basic questions, but I guess a lot of people have these as they look to the plunge.
shawnee wrote: Hey, y'all are right...took a look and the NCE Powercab entry-level system is just about the same price as a Digitrx Zephyr. $189 at Walthers, though I'm sure I could find it elsewhere for a few bucks less. If it's more intuitive to use that will certainly be good for me. It is a hand held...which is cool, no extra stuff to add. Does the pic below contain everything I'll need to start (except for the auto reversers and decoders)?photo omittedCan it handle DC engines while i convert my small fleet?Can one use as the DCC loco address the number you decalled on the side of the engine itself? That would be cool.Does one autoreverser handle more than one reverse section? Or do you buy one for each section?
photo omitted
That's everything you need to get started. The NCE system won't run an analog loco. BUt once you use DCC, you won't want to go back. Another thing is that A DC loco run on DCC has problems with reversing sections. When they it the boundary they reverse direction automatically. If you're running a train with one that would cause a problem.
Yes, you can and should use the loco number as the decoder address. That's the beauty of DCC and what makes it easy to select a loco. You just need to program the proper address into the decoder.
An auto reverser can handle more than one reversing section. A problem can occur of more than one train is crossing the sectio boundary at the same time then the reverser becomes confused and doesn't know what to do. It doesn't happen often but I have seen it happen.
I am 99% certain that the picture you posted contains everything you need minus decoders and autoreversers.
NCE systems do not have a provision for running DC locomotives at all.
You can set the locos address to whatever you'd like. I use four digit addressing and the loco number as it appears on the loco, just to make things easy to remember.
Not sure on the reverser question, sorry.
Edit: That's what I get for trying to use the forums at work. I get beaten by a much more informative post.
JK...I'm looking at the NCE site, and trying to find the auto-reverser. It seems hard to find. Do you know if they call it something different? When I search Walthers for NCE and keyword auto reverse or variations, nothing comes up. Trying to find how much they cost. It's very cool that the autoreverser can handle two sections.
The manual looks like it just requires a good long sit-down-and-read. I'll just have the take the time to master it. I think the NCE might be a good steer.
It's a mild drag that NCE doesn't handle DC locos. Oh well. I only have about 12, so it shouldn't take all that long. Which decoders to pick is the question there too...is there a website which offers guides to best decoders for specific manufacturer types? The Kalmbach book looks like a good thing to get too...i'll do that, thanks.
I'm going to take the DCC plunge. May delay my layout from going operational for a few weeks, but I'm gonna do it.
You can pick up the Power Cab for as little as $140 from Empire Northern and Tony's Train Exchange If you're interested, there's also a review of the NCE Power Cab on my web site that I did back in Feb. '06, along with a review on the Smart Booster and CAB-04p throttle. I think it's a pretty fair assessment of each product, including their pros and cons.
Even so, the Zephyr is a very good system and definitely worth your consideration - especially if you need or want to run any "non-DCC" locomotives. None of the NCE or MRC DCC systems can do that.
Hope that's a help...
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
CSXRobert, it does appear that NCE doesn't make an autoreverser, but I've been on the TonysTrains site and they do make one. The whole autoreverser set up is something that is highly confusing to me at this point, since I dion't understand how it sets up...it's an electronic board thingy (forgive the technical term)...and wires between the DCC system and the track, but i guess it's supposed to be mounted inside a fascia? Does it come in box or is it just an exposed circuit board? I know these are stoopid questions, but the autoreverser is one of the things that makes DCC attractive, along with (obviously) the independent train control.
I guess that's why so many of us have hung on to DC...the whole DCC thing looks incredibly technical. I'm just a guy who designs landscapes for a living.
In any case, i'm gonna take this plunge...my head may explode, but I'm going for it.
I gave this advice earlier on a similiar thread... You can get an MRC Prodigy Express for $102 on www.wholesaletrains.com. I just think it's a really good deal, that's why I keep suggesting it.
It has a very similiar design to the NCE Powercab (and very comparable capabilities), but is totally upgradeable to the better Prodigy Advance. You could buy the Express, then upgrade up from there as your needs evolved. The NCE is also good I'm sure, and upgradable, but not to the extent the Express is I'm sure.
CSX Robert wrote:I'll also add a couple of points. The PowerCab is a tethered cab, which means you can not unplug it while running trains; however, if you get the SmartBooster it becomes a walkaround cab, meaning that you can unplug it and move it to a different location while your trains are running. To me, the biggest limitation for the PowerCab is the 4 cab maximum with the SmartBooster(I have 2 sons, a nephew, and 3 nieces), but this does not seam to be a concern for you. I also like the added flexibility of Loconet that you get with Digitrax.I don't believe that NCE makes an auto-reverser, but don't let that influence your decision because auto-reversers are system independent.
I've never been able to have anyone explain to me in tangible terms what the advantage or flexibility of the Loconet is over a regular DCC control bus.
Shawnee - Without checking their website I don't believe that NCE makes a dedicated auto-reverser. When DCC first came out people used a separate booster as an auto-reverser, a rather expensive why to do it. Since then numerous third party suppliers have introduced auto-reversers. All perform the function, some better or faster than others, with price being a differentiating factor as well. My preference and experience has been with the PS-Rev from Tony's which is now a PSX-AR or something like that.
Other replies are correct in stating that to do walk around you will need a SmartBooster. That's because the PowerCab itself functions as the command station so that when you unplug it you in essence unplug the command station from the layout. The SmartBooster gives full walk around capability and increases the total power of the system. Well worth the additional cost, but is something that could always be added later after you up and running and comfortable with the system.
The auto-reverser is really easy to install. Simply double gap the reversing section on boths ends like you would with DC. The 2 wires from the track bus go into the reverser and the output of the reverser goes to the isolated reversing section. Done! All the other stuff has to do with adjustments that typically aren't need. I've never changed them on mine.
I'll repeat what I said in an earlier post. DC engines running on DCC do not like reversing sections. I had a friend running a DC engine on DCC through a reverse loop. The loco was running just fine then all of a sudden it went into reverse without stopping. He stopped the engine, change direction to forward again and it come out of the loop. We tried running it through the loop again and it did the same thing. Why? Because the reverser was reversing the 'phased polarity' of the reversing section. I don't know about you but I don;t want to take my new $100 loco and running at 1/2 throttle then switch direction. Not good for the motor.
The good news for me with NCE is that with my layout, there's not a lot of room to walkaround anyway. It's basically a elongated donut shape cut by an aisle, to maximize running space. Center spot id about 4 feet wide. So that's not a worry. Bigger issue is probably the DC loco capability. I've got to check my locos tonight to see how many are plug n' play...most of the Katos are I know. But I've got to either sell the rest, or consider Zephyr. That's something to consider.
If only...NCE could accomodate DC loco slot. I guess I need to do more deep research and bit more pondering, but y'all have really helped me here, got me off to a good, and enthusiastic start, and I'm indebted to you. Thank you.
And thank you for the note on the auto reverser from Tonys Trains. Very helpful to start to orient me on how to accomodate that. I think that's a really neat feature...saving all the hassle of the reverse looping.
NCE or Zephyr...maybe look at prodigy at 100 bucks too...and figure which is best. Got to figure if NCE is that much user-friendly than Zephyr...the Digitrax stuff does look complicated.
MisterBeasley wrote: One day, I went out and bought the DCC system. I installed a decoder in one engine, and hooked it up. Within a half-hour, I was a 12-year-old kid again, having a blast with trains . . . Personally, I'm hooked on sound, which I didn't think would happen. No, not to me. Never.
One day, I went out and bought the DCC system. I installed a decoder in one engine, and hooked it up. Within a half-hour, I was a 12-year-old kid again, having a blast with trains . . . Personally, I'm hooked on sound, which I didn't think would happen. No, not to me. Never.
Been there done that!! Someone needs to make a T-Shirt!
jktrains wrote:...I've never been able to have anyone explain to me in tangible terms what the advantage or flexibility of the Loconet is over a regular DCC control bus....
jktrains wrote:
As simply as possible, the peer-to-peer Loconet has plug-n-play ability for all current & future Digitrax products without modification.
Other DCC systems that use polled buss (or master-slave) systems have to get their command station/throttle software upgraded periodically to account for new products that weren't forseen when the last software upgrade was made (Lenz, for example, is up to Version 3 software).
Digitrax, OTOH, has had only a single software upgrade to the Chief system since it came out in the 1990's, and that was right after it came out. Since then, Digitrax has added 3 new throttle designs, 4 new block detectors, radio throttles, infrared throttles, power managers, signalling and so on. And all without upgrading it's software. Loconet allows that to happen.
Paul A. Cutler III************Weather Or No Go New Haven************
Shawnee, here is what I did with my EZ. For walk around I cut off the stock lead on the power cable to track. Added about 6 foot, use a extion cord for the power pack so I can move around with the main controler.
For the far end of my bench I used a slot car racing trick. From my main power block that feed the feeders I ran + and - wires to 2 screws that are screwed through the bench work. I have allagator clips on the end for the power wires to the track. I un hooke the clips from the main power wires and hook them to the screws and I am 15 feet from my normaly postion I run from.
If you like PIC I will post them, way simpler than it sounds like. You could do it 15 minutes max, took me 20!
I can run 4 BLI's Steam with sound on the small 1 amp power supply. I am not rich, but can spend $150 to $600 a month on this hobby. I still get the itch for a better DCC system and I can buy one depending on how my sales go. But ever time I am ready to pull the triger on a new system I stop and think. Why? In fact many of the people here in a round about way talk me out of upgrading. I want more F button control (for sound options) and EZ will only handel F-1 to F-8. But it was pointed out over and over most people only use up to F-8? So why up grade if the power pack is not shutting down?
I am odd, running a $600.00 Steam engine on a used $30.00 EZ from T-Stage.
By the way when you finaly jump to sound you will be hooked like me. I held out for some time. You can all use the F-8 button when you dont want any sound.
EZ Ken
I hate Rust
I personally cannot stand buying half of anything. I think that the basic DCC systems are ok and necessary. Posts such as "why dont I have enough power to program?" confirms my thinking that these basic DCC systems may or may not have the "Beef" to feed the engines.
I went totally to the high extreme by buying the Super Chief 8 amp, power supply 2012 etc etc etc... I just finished soaking in the SE8c signalling for the CPL B&O's no less these last few weeks. Sometimes the HUM in my house when I fire up the train room eclipses the one under the computer that is driven by a 550 watt power supply on several rails backed by a massive APU Battery that keeps me "UP" when arkansas loses power at times.
Call me extreme, but Ive sucessfully ran trains and any mistakes I made was my own, not the equiptment's fault.