Who makes your favorite F units? (plastic)

[tstage]

Evan,

You mentioned paying more than you cared to for the Stewarts.  Have you checked out the prices at M.B. Klein?

http://www.modeltrainstuff.com

I picked up my FTs for over 50% off list.

Also, try Empire Northern Models (http://www.empirenorthernmodels.com).  Tim has some VERY good prices on A-B F-units.

Tom

[CAZEPHYR]

So I could buy a Genesis chassie for, what are they, $45? and put an undec highliner shell on it?

That is the way to get what you are asking for.   The Highliner shell and Genesis drive are about the same price most places.

 

 

[garya]

I have P1K, Intermountain, and Athearn Blue Box. For value and smooth running, you can't beat P1K, though they're not the most accurate.

I'd like to hear how Boxcar Jim detailed his F3. James, how did you shave off the grabs without ruining the paint? I tried it on a P1K F3B and botched the job. Any advice? What did you use for grabs?

[jon grant]

I like the P1K F units too, even with the moulded on grabs. With a bit of judicial weathering the fact that they are moulded on can be hidded to a large degree.

 

 

With a Soundtraxx 100LC decoder in, they also sound good

http://www.trainboard.com/railimages/showphoto.php/photo/17849/cat/843

 

Here's a longer clip of P1K F3s in Pennsy colours - with incorrect numberboards

http://www.railimages.com/gallery/album508/aap

 

Jon

 

 

 

[Nataraj]

I have aa athearn a-b SP set of f3's, and LOVE them. Got them for a total of $50!!!!!

[boxcar_jim]

I have P1K, Intermountain, and Athearn Blue Box. For value and smooth running, you can't beat P1K, though they're not the most accurate. I'd like to hear how Boxcar Jim detailed his F3. James, how did you shave off the grabs without ruining the paint? I tried it on a P1K F3B and botched the job. Any advice? What did you use for grabs?

Gary

Go really easy is the best advice! Use a brand new fresh blade in your knife, I used a #11 chisel. Shave a little at a time, taking great lumps off in one go will have you digging into the car body in no time. Watch where you knife blade is going, its really easy to damage adjacent paint. Hopefully this way you can keep the touch up to a minimum.

I touched up with a brush, rather than my airbrush. I then drilled the car body for replacement grab positions with a small bit held in a pin vice and bent thin brass wire to shape for the grabs.

I've added cab footsteps made from styrene sheet, and diaphragms. I will be adding cut levers but haven't round to doing this yet (hence the model is not weathered).

I'd love to post an image for you but for some reason the img tags don't work for me in the new forum. There is a picture of the nearly completed unit on my website home page, if you click on the website icon below and scroll down the page.

Hope this helps

[Soo Line fan]

I have 4 of the Stewart F units and really like them. I also like the Atlas/Roco FP-7s. I have 2 of the first run and 2 of the second run Atlas Fs and they run very well also. The second run of Atlas MUs real well with my Stewarts.

 

Jim

[garya]

Thank you, James. I looked at your website--very nice layout, very nice F unit.

Between you and Jon Grant the Brits are helping me whip my F units into shape!

[bogp40]

I have P1K, Intermountain, and Athearn Blue Box. For value and smooth running, you can't beat P1K, though they're not the most accurate. I'd like to hear how Boxcar Jim detailed his F3. James, how did you shave off the grabs without ruining the paint? I tried it on a P1K F3B and botched the job. Any advice? What did you use for grabs?

Gary

Go really easy is the best advice! Use a brand new fresh blade in your knife, I used a #11 chisel. Shave a little at a time, taking great lumps off in one go will have you digging into the car body in no time. Watch where you knife blade is going, its really easy to damage adjacent paint. Hopefully this way you can keep the touch up to a minimum.

I touched up with a brush, rather than my airbrush. I then drilled the car body for replacement grab positions with a small bit held in a pin vice and bent thin brass wire to shape for the grabs.

I've added cab footsteps made from styrene sheet, and diaphragms. I will be adding cut levers but haven't round to doing this yet (hence the model is not weathered).

I'd love to post an image for you but for some reason the img tags don't work for me in the new forum. There is a picture of the nearly completed unit on my website home page, if you click on the website icon below and scroll down the page.

Hope this helps

I would like to add to boxcarjim's recomendations. When using the chisel, I find that if you keep a perfect sharp edge from a hone or 600 grit wet or dry, the details almost pop off the shell. One other thing about drilling for the wire grabs. I find it better to locate and drill the holes before removing the molded on one. The NBW castings can be used as a guide for drilling. Once removed it becomes more difficult. I find I have better control of the chisel by using it without the handle, the back of your finger can act as a pivot when slicing off the detail. Never had a miss and damaged paint since doing it this way. A chisel can also be used to scrape off lettering when held at 90 degrees. Chisels for this use have had the edges rounded as not to dig the surrounding paint.

[Anonymous]

Evan,

You mentioned paying more than you cared to for the Stewarts.  Have you checked out the prices at M.B. Klein?

http://www.modeltrainstuff.com

I picked up my FTs for over 50% off list.

Also, try Empire Northern Models (http://www.empirenorthernmodels.com).  Tim has some VERY good prices on A-B F-units.

Tom

Tom, I just looked at M.B. Klein and they charge about $99 for a F AB set. Not a bad deal, but not a steal, either. Empire Northen charges $160 for an AB set and the B unit is a dummy. I could buy a F3 AB set from discounttrainsonline for $103 and a B unit chassie for $65, and have a powered AB for the same price.

 

Evan, off his for now.