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Who makes your favorite F units? (plastic)

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Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, July 29, 2006 9:42 PM

 tstage wrote:
Evan,

You mentioned paying more than you cared to for the Stewarts.  Have you checked out the prices at M.B. Klein?

http://www.modeltrainstuff.com

I picked up my FTs for over 50% off list.

Also, try Empire Northern Models (http://www.empirenorthernmodels.com).  Tim has some VERY good prices on A-B F-units.

Tom
Tom, I just looked at M.B. Klein and they charge about $99 for a F AB set. Not a bad deal, but not a steal, either. Empire Northen charges $160 for an AB set and the B unit is a dummy. I could buy a F3 AB set from discounttrainsonline for $103 and a B unit chassie for $65, and have a powered AB for the same price.

 

Evan, off his SoapBox [soapbox] for now.

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Posted by bogp40 on Saturday, July 29, 2006 8:24 PM
 boxcar_jim wrote:

 garya wrote:
I have P1K, Intermountain, and Athearn Blue Box. For value and smooth running, you can't beat P1K, though they're not the most accurate. I'd like to hear how Boxcar Jim detailed his F3. James, how did you shave off the grabs without ruining the paint? I tried it on a P1K F3B and botched the job. Any advice? What did you use for grabs?

Gary

Go really easy is the best advice! Use a brand new fresh blade in your knife, I used a #11 chisel. Shave a little at a time, taking great lumps off in one go will have you digging into the car body in no time. Watch where you knife blade is going, its really easy to damage adjacent paint. Hopefully this way you can keep the touch up to a minimum.

I touched up with a brush, rather than my airbrush. I then drilled the car body for replacement grab positions with a small bit held in a pin vice and bent thin brass wire to shape for the grabs.

I've added cab footsteps made from styrene sheet, and diaphragms. I will be adding cut levers but haven't round to doing this yet (hence the model is not weathered).

I'd love to post an image for you but for some reason the img tags don't work for me in the new forum. There is a picture of the nearly completed unit on my website home page, if you click on the website icon below and scroll down the page.

Hope this helps

I would like to add to boxcarjim's recomendations. When using the chisel, I find that if you keep a perfect sharp edge from a hone or 600 grit wet or dry, the details almost pop off the shell. One other thing about drilling for the wire grabs. I find it better to locate and drill the holes before removing the molded on one. The NBW castings can be used as a guide for drilling. Once removed it becomes more difficult. I find I have better control of the chisel by using it without the handle, the back of your finger can act as a pivot when slicing off the detail. Never had a miss and damaged paint since doing it this way. A chisel can also be used to scrape off lettering when held at 90 degrees. Chisels for this use have had the edges rounded as not to dig the surrounding paint.

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Posted by garya on Saturday, July 29, 2006 8:14 PM
Thank you, James. I looked at your website--very nice layout, very nice F unit.

Between you and Jon Grant the Brits are helping me whip my F units into shape!

Gary

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Posted by Soo Line fan on Saturday, July 29, 2006 5:00 PM

I have 4 of the Stewart F units and really like them. I also like the Atlas/Roco FP-7s. I have 2 of the first run and 2 of the second run Atlas Fs and they run very well also. The second run of Atlas MUs real well with my Stewarts.

 

Jim

Jim

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Posted by boxcar_jim on Saturday, July 29, 2006 2:11 PM

 garya wrote:
I have P1K, Intermountain, and Athearn Blue Box. For value and smooth running, you can't beat P1K, though they're not the most accurate. I'd like to hear how Boxcar Jim detailed his F3. James, how did you shave off the grabs without ruining the paint? I tried it on a P1K F3B and botched the job. Any advice? What did you use for grabs?

Gary

Go really easy is the best advice! Use a brand new fresh blade in your knife, I used a #11 chisel. Shave a little at a time, taking great lumps off in one go will have you digging into the car body in no time. Watch where you knife blade is going, its really easy to damage adjacent paint. Hopefully this way you can keep the touch up to a minimum.

I touched up with a brush, rather than my airbrush. I then drilled the car body for replacement grab positions with a small bit held in a pin vice and bent thin brass wire to shape for the grabs.

I've added cab footsteps made from styrene sheet, and diaphragms. I will be adding cut levers but haven't round to doing this yet (hence the model is not weathered).

I'd love to post an image for you but for some reason the img tags don't work for me in the new forum. There is a picture of the nearly completed unit on my website home page, if you click on the website icon below and scroll down the page.

Hope this helps

James --------------------------------------------- Modelling 1950s era New England in HO and HOn30 ... and western Germany "today" in N, and a few other things as well when I get the chance ....
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Posted by Nataraj on Saturday, July 29, 2006 11:51 AM
I have aa athearn a-b SP set of f3's, and LOVE them. Got them for a total of $50!!!!!
Nataraj -- Southern Pacific RULES!!! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The GS-4 was the most beautiful steam engine that ever touched the rails.
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Posted by jon grant on Saturday, July 29, 2006 9:58 AM

I like the P1K F units too, even with the moulded on grabs. With a bit of judicial weathering the fact that they are moulded on can be hidded to a large degree.

 

 

With a Soundtraxx 100LC decoder in, they also sound good

http://www.trainboard.com/railimages/showphoto.php/photo/17849/cat/843

 

Here's a longer clip of P1K F3s in Pennsy colours - with incorrect numberboards

http://www.railimages.com/gallery/album508/aap

 

Jon

 

 

 

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Posted by garya on Saturday, July 29, 2006 9:15 AM
I have P1K, Intermountain, and Athearn Blue Box. For value and smooth running, you can't beat P1K, though they're not the most accurate.

I'd like to hear how Boxcar Jim detailed his F3. James, how did you shave off the grabs without ruining the paint? I tried it on a P1K F3B and botched the job. Any advice? What did you use for grabs?

Gary

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Posted by CAZEPHYR on Saturday, July 29, 2006 8:20 AM

 dingoix wrote:
So I could buy a Genesis chassie for, what are they, $45? and put an undec highliner shell on it?

That is the way to get what you are asking for.   The Highliner shell and Genesis drive are about the same price most places.

 

 

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Posted by tstage on Saturday, July 29, 2006 1:04 AM
Evan,

You mentioned paying more than you cared to for the Stewarts.  Have you checked out the prices at M.B. Klein?

http://www.modeltrainstuff.com

I picked up my FTs for over 50% off list.

Also, try Empire Northern Models (http://www.empirenorthernmodels.com).  Tim has some VERY good prices on A-B F-units.

Tom

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Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, July 29, 2006 12:51 AM
So I could buy a Genesis chassie for, what are they, $45? and put an undec highliner shell on it?
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Posted by CAZEPHYR on Friday, July 28, 2006 11:29 PM
 dingoix wrote:

My Stewart F3 runs nicer than my newer Atlas models, and it can PULL. Detail isn't the greatest, but it does look nice. But Stewarts are pricey- I got my CGW F3 AB (B is a dummy) for about $110 with shipping. Then a power chassie for the F3B is $65, so I'll have $175 in each A/B set. I don't think I'll have too many Stewarts at that price.

[

Still waiting for Athearn Genesis to release undecorated F units or CGW F units.

The only way to get the A unit is by buying the Highliner shell.   Highliner sells the undecorated shells and Athearn uses the same shells for decorated units.  They don't seem to compete directly.  You can purchase the Athearn drive units if you prefer them from Horizen.  I did pick up two of the Genesis drives without shells for replacement parts for the other Genesis drives.  The come in black or silver tanks and trucks.

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Posted by CAZEPHYR on Friday, July 28, 2006 11:19 PM
 bogp40 wrote:

My favorite F units are my Stewart's. Half of the 18 units are older Kato drives and the rest are the newer ones. Stewart shells were always lacking in detail out of the box and it can be pleasurable to do all the detail work. Many of us, myself included, are becoming lazy in our modeling with all the fantastic RTR out now. The Intermountain/ Regal are not bad at all, but the Genesis is about the finest paint and detail of any yet. Genesis drives are good, don't think they are as great as the Stewart/ Kato's but they run smooth, pull well and so far haven't heard of ant chronic troubles. I am still turned off with BLI, especially after the WM F unit paint/ detail screwup. Others haven't been that impressed either.

So if you take the Kato drive and use the Highliner shell(Genesis) you can have the best F unit all around. 

I like the Kato Drive from the Stewarts and since the Stewarts did not have the stainless grills or details that the Highliners have, I just used the drives from the Stewarts but not the shell.  When the Stewarts first came out, I purchased a few ABBA sets powered and got a few more later on at bargain prices.  After the Highliner B shells came out, I started the switch, but the B units came out about ten years before the A unit. 

 I believe the Intermountain drive system is just as good and is still available.  I purchased a bunch of the PK1 F unit drives also when they were blown out by Trainworld for $20 each .  You had to buy both the A and B unit for about $40, but both were powered.    The drive from the PK1 is super and where can you buy anything that runs that well for $20. 

The Genesis units sold as RTR are the best overall in looks and detail,  but the Kato drive is a much better drive system.  I don't have any of the new Stewarts / Bower, but they were basically a copy of the Kato drive and ran good also if I remember correctly.        

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Posted by tomikawaTT on Friday, July 28, 2006 10:45 PM

Nobody makes my favorite F-unit - in plastic, brass, pot metal or compressed cow chips.  I don't have one.  In fact, with my present prototype, I don't even have a favorite diesel-electric.  I run center-cab diesel-hydraulic hood units, plus one with a slightly off-center cab,

Even if I planned to change to a U. S. prototype (which I don't) my choice would be pre/merger N&W - all hood units.  Simply put, I don't need and don't want an F unit as such.

I do use a couple of train set F units as pushers in hidden storage.  They would be just as effective for the purpose if I removed and discarded the shells.  They came as yard sale specials (courtesy of my sister) with no pedigree.  When they die, I'll replace them with some other yard sale junk.

Chuck

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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, July 28, 2006 10:33 PM

My Stewart F3 runs nicer than my newer Atlas models, and it can PULL. Detail isn't the greatest, but it does look nice. But Stewarts are pricey- I got my CGW F3 AB (B is a dummy) for about $110 with shipping. Then a power chassie for the F3B is $65, so I'll have $175 in each A/B set. I don't think I'll have too many Stewarts at that price.

 

I'm going to get getting an ABBA set of P1K F3s now that they've got 'em in CGWThumbs Up [tup]

I'm gonna get a few intermountain FP7As and F7Bs now that they've got 'em in CGWThumbs Up [tup]

Still waiting for Athearn Genesis to release undecorated F units or CGW F units.

I've got a first run Atlas FP7 from around 1975 that runs worse than an Athearn BB. It died a few months ago.

I suspect I'll get a few BB F7s to help "get the railroad running" without spending too much ($30 for undec F7 A or B)

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Posted by David_Telesha on Friday, July 28, 2006 10:00 PM

 jbangelfish wrote:

Oops:

Didn't show up in my book. I'm not trying to poo-poo anything, just an observation, albeit an incorrect one. OK, see if you can talk someone into making FL9's. P2k and others seem to be making some of the less common things such as E units painted black widow. This would be a bit different and require a whole new engine. NH is certainly a popular road but it's not one of the biggies like UP or ATSF. Has a brass company ever made one? They have made some that were quite rare.

Bill

OK..glad you aren't an FL-9 poo-pooer.. There has been much buzz about the FL-9's and I've done my part helping it along...considering the popularity of the FL-9 its a travesty it has not been done in plastic mass-production. On Page 6 of the February 2004 Model Railroader, there is a Most Wanted poll in which the FL-9 scores 7th on a list of 10 unit...considering that could've been anything else, that speaks volumes about the FL-9. The B-A1A wheelbase is a non-issue as Canadian Model Trains is offering a CPA24-5 (in New Haven too) on the same B-A1A type set up. Its frustrating getting the manufacturers to see things the way they are; beyond the big "holy 13" road names. Despite all the aforementioned, that not mentioned, 3 sold out NH DL-109 runs, 3/4 NH PA-1 runs sold out (with the most recent not-yet-sold out run in May 06), and Atlas making models of the NH NE-6 in every scheme the NH slapped on their NE-6 cabooses, they still shrug the FL-9 off, with no reasonable explanation.

There have in fact been a couple runs of FL-9's done in brass, and you guessed it -- despite being out of my and many other's price ranges, they sold out. The most recent was done by OMI and were beautys, but I wouldn't spend $700 on a locomotive on my budget and niether would most people -- especially when I can use 5-6 FL-9's...2/3 New Haven (orig), 1 Metro north Beachball, and 2 CDOT units (NH Mc Ginnis scheme) with the numbers 2024 and 2026. They aren't very rare units....as any railfan in this the most populated region in the US, could tell you, 60 units roaming around all those carriers made them ubiquitus (sp) in this region -- combined with the fact anyone alive 1957 to this very day could've seen/ can see right now, FL-9's in active passenger revenue service.

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Posted by CAZEPHYR on Friday, July 28, 2006 7:20 PM
 jbangelfish wrote:
 Darth Santa Fe wrote:

 csmith9474 wrote:
I expected more out of the BLI Warbonnet F7s, but those are terrible. I am glad I didn't hold out for those.

Just went to BLI's website and saw a picture of the SF F7s, and I agree, they don't look nearly as good as the Genesis F units. So I know who'll be getting my business for high quality F units.Big Smile [:D]

http://www.broadway-limited.com/products/images/f7/production/atsf.jpg

http://www.athearn.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=ATHG10700

I think I made the right choice when I got my F3.Big Smile [:D]

I am surprised by that one. I thought BLI did everything first class. Photos that I've seen of their E units looked very nice but I have not had one in hand.

It seems that overall most guys are favoring the Athearn Genesis line and it's not hard to see why. They look great, offer a variety of F units and everyone raves about how they run. The paint is sure nicer than the old blue boxes and with the detailing nearly complete out of the box, it's not hard to see why they are so popular.

I have more F units than any other engine (42 of them at last count and I've probably sold that many off as well) so they must be my favorite engines. Their versatility is part of the appeal for me and I think their styling was also great. Basically, the FT was responsible for the demise of the steam engine which is sad but a business fact. A four unit set could do what a large steam engine could do for a lot less money and without stopping for hundreds of miles.

Thanks to all

Bill

 

I agree with you about the popularity of the F units and I do not actually know how many I have at this time.  If I started to count them, it might stop me from buying more.

The BLI pictures show the protruding number board inserts.  They should be recessed into the number boards.   The grills can be fixed since they tend to expand differently than the plastic.  I was surprised they would publish the picture since it is not good.

The rest of the unit looks OK and the sound is the same as the E8's so it should sound good.  

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Posted by tstage on Friday, July 28, 2006 7:18 PM
 jbangelfish wrote:

Very nice Tom:

Do you know what drive system they are? I'd guess Kato but not sure. I have a later set of FT's for CB&Q and I'm not sure which drive system is used, maybe Beuler. It seems that all of them were excellent. Stewart might have done the best job in recreating the F units of anyone and among the best running as well. Just alittle work to dress them up and somewhat iffy paint jobs but all in all, very fine plastic models.

Bill

Bill,

I bought them earlier this year.  I believe they are the newer Canon drives but it may be Bueler.  I know that my Stewart Baldwin VO-660 has the Canon drive.

Tom

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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, July 28, 2006 7:16 PM
 David_Telesha wrote:
 jbangelfish wrote:
 David_Telesha wrote:

NOBODY YET!

It will be whoever does FL-9's first!!!

Well, I had to look that one up in a diesel spotters guide. I don't see that anyone had them other than NH, so finding someone to make them might be difficult. Looks like a kitbash project would be the only way. I think Atlas made some FP7 or FP9's but you'd have to fabricate your own drive system. E units are A1A so if you could somehow shorten up an E unit chassis and modify an F unit B truck onto the front, you'd be about as close as you could get. Sounds like a challenge but I'm sure somebody could pull it off. Probably not me. I have ongoing projects that began almost 30 years ago.

Bill

On the contrary, you left out Penn Central, Amtrak, Conrail, Metro North, CDOT, Maine Eastern, Morristown & Erie, Cooperstown & Charlotte Valley, and Adirondack Scenic Railroad....not to mention the commemorative Metro North New York Central scheme applied to 2 units, and at least 2 PC schemes, 2 Amtrak schemes, at least 3 or 4 Metro North schemes, combined with a service life of 1957-2006+ and a following in one of the more popular railroads out there (New Haven sells quite well, just ask Atlas and Life-Like) and you have a sure winner the rest of the civilized world knows about.

There's always somebody there to poo-poo an FL-9...its getting old folks...as is kitbashing a unit that should've been made yesterday...

None of these folks seemed dis-interested:

http://photos.nerail.org/showpic/?2005121921124531754.jpg

Oops:

Didn't show up in my book. I'm not trying to poo-poo anything, just an observation, albeit an incorrect one. OK, see if you can talk someone into making FL9's. P2k and others seem to be making some of the less common things such as E units painted black widow. This would be a bit different and require a whole new engine. NH is certainly a popular road but it's not one of the biggies like UP or ATSF. Has a brass company ever made one? They have made some that were quite rare.

Bill

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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, July 28, 2006 7:06 PM
 Darth Santa Fe wrote:

 csmith9474 wrote:
I expected more out of the BLI Warbonnet F7s, but those are terrible. I am glad I didn't hold out for those.

Just went to BLI's website and saw a picture of the SF F7s, and I agree, they don't look nearly as good as the Genesis F units. So I know who'll be getting my business for high quality F units.Big Smile [:D]

http://www.broadway-limited.com/products/images/f7/production/atsf.jpg

http://www.athearn.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=ATHG10700

I think I made the right choice when I got my F3.Big Smile [:D]

I am surprised by that one. I thought BLI did everything first class. Photos that I've seen of their E units looked very nice but I have not had one in hand.

Years ago, Tenshodo made some awful F units in brass. You can buy them now cheaper than plastic. Hallmark had some too and I had a set of early ones (FT's) that I had thought I'd use for GN. They were actually made to be AT&SF and I eventually sold them. I didn't care for them but the buyer was very happy with them. I think they got better in later runs.

It seems that overall most guys are favoring the Athearn Genesis line and it's not hard to see why. They look great, offer a variety of F units and everyone raves about how they run. The paint is sure nicer than the old blue boxes and with the detailing nearly complete out of the box, it's not hard to see why they are so popular.

I have more F units than any other engine (42 of them at last count and I've probably sold that many off as well) so they must be my favorite engines. Their versatility is part of the appeal for me and I think their styling was also great. Basically, the FT was responsible for the demise of the steam engine which is sad but a business fact. A four unit set could do what a large steam engine could do for a lot less money and without stopping for hundreds of miles.

 Modeling the 50's, they fit just about any road that I'd care to model. I can't choose a clear winner as to being a favorite for who made them. For ease and appeal out of the box, it would probably be Athearn Genesis. For the best look in body shape, maybe Stewart. For the best bang for the buck, probably the old blue boxes. Nothin really wrong with any of them.

Thanks to all

Bill

 

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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, July 28, 2006 6:35 PM
 tankertoad70 wrote:

Well, my fave is still the ol' Athearn bluebox Fs.  The price is right, and removing/adding/modifying detail is fairly easy.  If I botch a project, I have found that acquiring a new shell is both simple and inexpensive.  The units with the heavy weight are nice pullers and smooth runners once broken in, and maintenance is simple.  I have a customized GN F7 that can pull over 50 forty foot cars up a 3.5% grade. 

I also own a few Stewarts which I really enjoy for their variety of types of F units and smooth operation. I have even modified a coupla Stewart shells to fit Athearn drives.

I do own an Intermountain kit, but have yet to get the puppy road worthy.

Lotsa good choices out there depending on what one wants to invest monetarily.Cowboy [C):-)]

I love the old blue boxes too and have quite a few of them. I did give a set of Warbonnets to my son when I picked up the Genesis set. I've sold all that I had with plastic sideframes (powered units that is). The electrical pickup is a rather fidgety one but soldering and eliminating the sliding mechanism makes them run better. The ones with the full weight are extremely heavy and I don't doubt that a single engine could pull 50 cars.

I haven't picked up any of the Intermountain units but they do look nice. They just don't seem as readily available. I buy almost everything from ebay.

Bill

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Posted by bogp40 on Friday, July 28, 2006 6:32 PM

My favorite F units are my Stewart's. Half of the 18 units are older Kato drives and the rest are the newer ones. Stewart shells were always lacking in detail out of the box and it can be pleasurable to do all the detail work. Many of us, myself included, are becoming lazy in our modeling with all the fantastic RTR out now. The Intermountain/ Regal are not bad at all, but the Genesis is about the finest paint and detail of any yet. Genesis drives are good, don't think they are as great as the Stewart/ Kato's but they run smooth, pull well and so far haven't heard of ant chronic troubles. I am still turned off with BLI, especially after the WM F unit paint/ detail screwup. Others haven't been that impressed either.

So if you take the Kato drive and use the Highliner shell(Genesis) you can have the best F unit all around. 

Modeling B&O- Chessie  Bob K.  www.ssmrc.org

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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, July 28, 2006 6:28 PM

 Darth Santa Fe wrote:
So far, Athearn Genesis.Big Smile [:D] My Genesis SF Warbonnet F3A is the best looking and quietest running diesel I own.Big Smile [:D]Big Smile [:D]Big Smile [:D] It's even quieter than my Atlas 8-40B, or Kato SD80MAC.Big Smile [:D]Big Smile [:D]Big Smile [:D]
I picked up an ABBA set of late F3's with stainless grills in Warbonnet and they really are very nice. Haven't run them yet.

Bill

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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, July 28, 2006 6:26 PM
 boxcar_jim wrote:

I think my favorite is the P1K F3s .... the shells are excellent, even if they have cast on grabs, the paint is top quality and the drive is sooooo smoooooth. Bang for buck you can't beat 'em.

The MEC F3 #672 pictured in my Avatar is a P1K, detailed with cast grabs shaved off and replaced with wire ones and some other bits and pieces, and fitted with a DH163AO decoder.

I also really like the Athearn Genesis ones - their great too, better detailed, but much more expensive of course, hence second place.

I really don't rate the Stewart models, the paint is poor on my MEC example to the extent that I'll probably end up stripping it and re-paint. The mechs OK, but not as good as the Athearn G or P1K.

I had an old Bachmann F7 once - its mech got robbed out for another project and I used the shell for paint practice. It was dreadful.Tongue [:P]

I didn't even know that P1k had F3's. I nearly bought some erie built P1k's but shied away because of the cast grabs. I'm not a great painter and have stuck with single color schemes. After a number of years, my decals look terrible so I don't know if I'll ever go through that process again.

Yes, the Genesis line is pricey but they are so nice that it may be worth it.

Stewart paint is just so so and depends on the road that you are modeling. If you are lucky enough to need a simple paint scheme, they may fit the bill very nicely and as everyone mentions, they run great. I still believe that they may have the most accurate body of all.

I have a couple of old Bachman F9 shells that I painted for NP freight and was going to adapt them to Athearn drives. I never found a Bachman B unit. Anyway, my project was also rather dreadful and the decals look horrible. I painted flat black and did not learn til later that decals don't like flat paint. The shells are sitting in a shoebox and have been for 20 years.

Bill

 

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Posted by CAZEPHYR on Friday, July 28, 2006 6:20 PM
 jbangelfish wrote:

I have F units from Athearn (blue box and some older), Athearn Genesis and Stewart. I enjoy all of them and consider them all to look and run well. The old Athearns captured the F unit look but showed mold lines and many had poor paint jobs. Still, with a little work, they look good, are reliable and run well. I prefer the ones with metal sideframes as the newer ones with the plastic sideframe with add-on details will not take a sharp turn once the details are added.

The Stewarts have gone through many drive train changes and I don't know which ones are the best, they all seem to run well and they really look nice. Just have to detail them. I have some from every era, I think, and at least the bodies look to have stayed the same. It was called the most accurate F unit ever made and maybe it is. They were the first plastic F to offer every phase of F unit production from FT through F9's. I applaud their effort.

Then came the Athearn Genesis line. I've bought a few and like their looks. I have yet to run any but I'm sure I'll be satisfied with their performance. Right out of the box, they have as much detail as any and rival brass in outward appearance.

Of the ones that I have, it's a toss-up between the Stewarts and the Athearn Genesis as to which is my favorite. The Genesis are more ready to go but it's hard for me to say that I like either one more than the other. How bout the rest of you?

If it's sound that you want, I think you're stuck with BLI or the latest from Athearn Genesis. I have not taken that step yet and am more concerned with looks and performance. I'm not even DCC yet so I guess I'm alittle behind the times. Many of my engines are DCC ready but I don't have any of the rest of the requirements. Probably will get into it in time.

Bill

I have the older F units blue box Athearn, Stewarts F units , PK1 F units, Intermounain F units and off course several dozen Genesis F units.  The Stewarts I have all are Kato drive and probably run as good as anything you can buy.   The PK1 F units run very well also bit I use the drives only for power to the Highliner shells, since the PK1 shells are not detailed.  The Intermountain is the best running current F unit for my money and the Genesis are the best in detail and fidelity to the prototype.  

Most all of the F units available in the past few years run good and with a few exceptions. and are some of the best in the model world today. 

And for the sound, the only way I would recommend is Soundtraxx in the Genesis units.  It is great!~! Don't accept the sound in the installed Athearn.  BLI is better for sure, but the model still has some problems. 

All except the blue box models have a place in my model railroading.    

As a famous man once said,  " I never met an F unit I did't like! " 

  • Member since
    November 2005
  • From: NYNH&H Norwich & Worcester MP21.7
  • 774 posts
Posted by David_Telesha on Friday, July 28, 2006 6:07 PM
 jbangelfish wrote:
 David_Telesha wrote:

NOBODY YET!

It will be whoever does FL-9's first!!!

Well, I had to look that one up in a diesel spotters guide. I don't see that anyone had them other than NH, so finding someone to make them might be difficult. Looks like a kitbash project would be the only way. I think Atlas made some FP7 or FP9's but you'd have to fabricate your own drive system. E units are A1A so if you could somehow shorten up an E unit chassis and modify an F unit B truck onto the front, you'd be about as close as you could get. Sounds like a challenge but I'm sure somebody could pull it off. Probably not me. I have ongoing projects that began almost 30 years ago.

Bill

On the contrary, you left out Penn Central, Amtrak, Conrail, Metro North, CDOT, Maine Eastern, Morristown & Erie, Cooperstown & Charlotte Valley, and Adirondack Scenic Railroad....not to mention the commemorative Metro North New York Central scheme applied to 2 units, and at least 2 PC schemes, 2 Amtrak schemes, at least 3 or 4 Metro North schemes, combined with a service life of 1957-2006+ and a following in one of the more popular railroads out there (New Haven sells quite well, just ask Atlas and Life-Like) and you have a sure winner the rest of the civilized world knows about.

There's always somebody there to poo-poo an FL-9...its getting old folks...as is kitbashing a unit that should've been made yesterday...

None of these folks seemed dis-interested:

http://photos.nerail.org/showpic/?2005121921124531754.jpg

David Telesha New Haven Railroad - www.NHRHTA.org
  • Member since
    April 2005
  • From: Colorado Springs, CO
  • 3,590 posts
Posted by csmith9474 on Friday, July 28, 2006 6:05 PM
 Darth Santa Fe wrote:

 csmith9474 wrote:
I expected more out of the BLI Warbonnet F7s, but those are terrible. I am glad I didn't hold out for those.

Just went to BLI's website and saw a picture of the SF F7s, and I agree, they don't look nearly as good as the Genesis F units. So I know who'll be getting my business for high quality F units.Big Smile [:D]

http://www.broadway-limited.com/products/images/f7/production/atsf.jpg

http://www.athearn.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=ATHG10700

I think I made the right choice when I got my F3.Big Smile [:D]

I am happy they are doing another run of Warbonnet F7s finally. I think the Genesis Fs with sound are awesome. They really sound great.

 

Smitty
  • Member since
    June 2005
  • 4,367 posts
Posted by Darth Santa Fe on Friday, July 28, 2006 5:45 PM

 csmith9474 wrote:
I expected more out of the BLI Warbonnet F7s, but those are terrible. I am glad I didn't hold out for those.

Just went to BLI's website and saw a picture of the SF F7s, and I agree, they don't look nearly as good as the Genesis F units. So I know who'll be getting my business for high quality F units.Big Smile [:D]

http://www.broadway-limited.com/products/images/f7/production/atsf.jpg

http://www.athearn.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=ATHG10700

I think I made the right choice when I got my F3.Big Smile [:D]

_________________________________________________________________

  • Member since
    April 2005
  • From: Colorado Springs, CO
  • 3,590 posts
Posted by csmith9474 on Friday, July 28, 2006 5:30 PM

I think the Genesis Fs are by far the best available. I own a few of the Warbonnet F7s, and I think they are spectacular. The Highliner shells are REALLY close to having accurate dimensions. The nose looks great.

I expected more out of the BLI Warbonnet F7s, but those are terrible. I am glad I didn't hold out for those.

Smitty

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