Need a miniature drill bit that doesn't burn up after 5 uses.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by KenLarsen
Later tonight I'll find out if this plan actually works or not....

Well I tried it and it worked...mostly anyway.

I discovered that I didn't have good lighting, and it was too late to drive to Home Depot to buy a light fixture. So when I Dremel-wirebrushed the paint off the outer sides of the rails, it was hard for me to tell if I had cleaned them adequately or not, they always looked dark.

I continued with the rest of my plan, and now I have solid electrical contact between the track sections. Also, the test cars roll freely and smoothly over the junctions. However, it is butt-ugly - I need to find a way to disguise those melted ties. Oh well, two out of three ain't bad...![:D]

I'll need to buy myself one of those mechanic's drop-lights before I continue the work this Saturday. Again, thanx alot guys!

[Anonymous]

If this is for power supply, i take track joiners, and solder the wires to that, its quie simple, Yes im 13 and i can solder *** good, and build air cannons but that for another forum (www.spudtech.com).

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: I discovered that I didn't have good lighting, and it was too late to drive to Home Depot to buy a light fixture. So when I Dremel-wirebrushed the paint off the outer sides of the rails, it was hard for me to tell if I had cleaned them adequately or not, they always looked dark. I continued with the rest of my plan, and now I have solid electrical contact between the track sections. Also, the test cars roll freely and smoothly over the junctions. !

Congratulations Ken!
I would be surprised if you didn't have a BINOCULAR MAGNIFER. I found one for $5 at a discount tool store. It sure helps with the close work.

QUOTE: However, it is butt-ugly - I need to find a way to disguise those melted ties...

A little extra ballast, weeds, dirt and no one will notice (and we won't tell).
But you might want to practice on some scrap rail first.
What is the wattage of the soldering gun you're using? It should be about 150 watts. The trick is high heat and fast. Rail is thicker than the wire, so it takes a little longer to heat up. If the heat isn't sufficent, it takes longer to heat the rail and the heat has more time to travel, thereby melting the ties. A short "burst" of heat will be localized and the heat zone won't be as big.

Check out the MR article"Lost art of soldering,Taking the mystery out of a useful skill that's easy to learn" by John Pryke

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by KenLarsen

... Notice there is NOTHING about drilling any more holes!

You'll be happy you didn't! Work smarter not harder is my motto.

[Leon Silverman]

Ken:
I solder my rail joints with a rail joiner in place. Since this requires that the underlying ties be temporarily removed and shaved down to clear the extra thickness of the rail joiner, it also is a good place to attach feeder wires. I place metal track gauges on either side of the joint to act as heat sinks and prevent any relative movement of the rails that would change the gauge. The ties can than be replaced under the joints without distortion since they are never heated.

[Anonymous]

Gary, appreciate the feedback.

QUOTE: Originally posted by gsetter
Congratulations Ken!
I would be surprised if you didn't have a BINOCULAR MAGNIFER. I found one for $5 at a discount tool store. It sure helps with the close work.

Prepare to be surprised: I don't. Guess I'll be buying one, but definitely not from Micro-Mark at their "macro" prices! [swg]

QUOTE: ... What is the wattage of the soldering gun you're using? It should be about 150 watts. The trick is high heat and fast. Rail is thicker than the wire, so it takes a little longer to heat up. If the heat isn't sufficent, it takes longer to heat the rail and the heat has more time to travel, thereby melting the ties. A short "burst" of heat will be localized and the heat zone won't be as big.

[:O]*WOW!* I would NEVER have thought that a bigger iron would be needed - I thought I was pushing the envelope with my 80W tool - but what you say actually makes sense: higher heat, shorter duration - ergo, less tie damage! I'll have to add a 150W soldering iron to my shopping list.

QUOTE: Check out the MR article"Lost art of soldering,Taking the mystery out of a useful skill that's easy to learn" by John Pryke

I met John Pryke at an MER layout open house earlier this year; nice guy.