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Need a miniature drill bit that doesn't burn up after 5 uses.
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Gary, appreciate the feedback. <br /> <br />[quote]QUOTE: <i>Originally posted by gsetter</i> <br />Congratulations Ken! <br /> I would be surprised if you didn't have a [url="http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=81838"]<u>BINOCULAR MAGNIFER</u>[/url]. I found one for $5 at a discount tool store. It sure helps with the close work. <br />[/quote]Prepare to be surprised: I don't. Guess I'll be buying one, but definitely <i>not</i> from Micro-Mark at their "macro" prices! [swg] <br /> <br />[quote]QUOTE: ... What is the wattage of the soldering gun you're using? It should be about 150 watts. The trick is high heat and fast. Rail is thicker than the wire, so it takes a little longer to heat up. If the heat isn't sufficent, it takes longer to heat the rail and the heat has more time to travel, thereby melting the ties. A short "burst" of heat will be localized and the heat zone won't be as big.[/quote] [:O]*WOW!* I would NEVER have thought that a bigger iron would be needed - I thought I was pushing the envelope with my 80W tool - but what you say actually makes sense: higher heat, shorter <i>duration</i> - ergo, less tie damage! I'll have to add a 150W soldering iron to my shopping list. <br /> <br />[quote]QUOTE: Check out the MR article[url="http://www.trains.com/content/dynamic/articles/000/000/004/462ifjeg.asp"]<u>"Lost art of soldering,Taking the mystery out of a useful skill that's easy to learn"</u>[/url] by John Pryke [/quote]I met John Pryke at an MER layout open house earlier this year; nice guy.
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