This is a new company to me, and looking over their respective web-site has been in business since 2008. As I am not familiar with their line of paints, it would be interesting to hear yours discussion on this line, should you have used and or using this paint.
Just for knowledge, may be I should send Tru Color Paint a e-mail, is their entire line of paints solvent based like Floquil Regular and do the have a Polly Scale Acrylic line?
An, does anyone know if Willy K (Wm K. Walthers) to be carrying this line?
I actually posted a thread on this a few months back - I managed to get a bad bottle of Tru Color white.Purchasing a different bottle, that one worked fine.
1) Spray pressure is high, 28+psi. Also, I now spray a bit heavy to make sure coverage is decent and not blotchy.2) Doesn't really brush on well, except for tiny touch ups3) Thinner/Cleaner is acetone, which I got from the big-box drug store - pure acetone, no additives.4) The finish is not too bad, white finish was OK, blue & red were very good. Smooth enough to decal over. Clear Gloss, coverage is OK, not sure if rattle can Testors is better or not...5) Shake well - I mean really, really well. I do 2 minutes vigorously which could have all sorts of connotations.
I have usedsuccessfully used TruColor paint several times and like it for air brushing very much. It is advertised as needing no thinning for air brushing but I thin it 10 - 15% and set my air pressure at 18 PSI. The finish is glossy enough for water slide decals but not what I would call full gloss. I have not tried to hand paint it with a brush--I think it is too thin to cover well without multiple coats. I don't believe TC has a water based acrylic line.
I settled on trucolor as a replacement for pollyscale after trying about 8 different paints. Proper thinning is the key to a good finish with trucolor. Too thick and it will pebble. Keep in mind that, being acetone based, it will thicken even when kept tightly lidded, so thinning will alomst never be the same ratio. Fortunatly, I have never seemed to be able to over-thin it. My only complaint is that it absolutly will not brush paint worth a dam, so I keep a ton of masking tape and a few bottles of .99 walmart paint on hand.
I've used Tru Color on a few items. Just as stated before...it doesn't brush worth a squat. The paint has acetone as a primary solvent and evaporates annoyingly fast. With acetone thinning...very sparingly (acetone can be dangeourous to styrene...other plastics as well), it airbrushed quite well and leaves a semi gloss finish. I don't like it enough to use it as a replacement for Floquil or Scalecoat. And I've completely written off acrylics. I'll be taking colors sample to an area auto paint shop and getting them to match and mix solvent based enamels or lacquer of the colors I use most.
Mark H
Modeling in HO...Reading and Conrail together in an alternate history.
I tried their "White" and it's not as pure a white as the SMP Accupaint "Reefer White" that I used previously. I also didn't feel that the finish was glossy enough to decal and I had to clearcoat it. Not sure if I'm going to use it regularly. I have a bunch of unfinished projects that I can't finish because of the Accupaint+Floquil demises.
Mine doesn't move.......it's at the station!!!
I read they've recently added some brushable colors to their line, but haven't tried them.
Thanks to all for their respective comments on Tru Color Paint. Did not realize and did not pay close attention to manufacuturers chemical composition of paint.
Like most have stated aecetone is a number one plastic melter as well as the base ingredient for crack rocks (dope) and both a deadly for human body organs.
What some people will put into their respective bodies to get a buzz, just as some fools will get a high off of cavity and aterial fluids ( preservation chemicals), used in dead human remains.
Like the comment of one poster, just as well go to a automotive paint store that sells RPM (Testors Parent) autopaint, to paint models. They can do a 100% color match from a paint chip on the computer.
The last poster had a point also, worth investigating. I will send a e-mail to Tru Color Paint on the arcylic paint, if available.
I've said it before in a past post and a e-mail to the manufacturer, I really think RPM blew-it, when they dropped the Floquil Poly-Scale line!
Run EightThanks to all for their respective comments on Tru Color Paint. Did not realize and did not pay close attention to manufacuturers chemical composition of paint. Like most have stated aecetone is a number one plastic melter as well as the base ingredient for crack rocks (dope) and both a deadly for human body organs.
I'm at a point where I need to start painting structures that I have built. If there are problems with the Tru-Color paints, then what is the best paint to use in model applications? I have also heard that there are problems with Badger's Modelflex paint, e.g., paint dryng in the bottle, etc..
In an E-mail I received from Rick Galazzo of Tru-Color Paint, he confirmed that they are coming out with a flat-finish paint line that is to be brushable. These paints are in their 800 series. He didn't say what their composition was, but I assume they are the same as their gloss-finish paint. He also said that their gloss finish paints normally do not need thinning for airbrushing, but if thinning is required, they recommend using their TCP-15 thinner. Acetone can be used for clean-up of the airbrush. They also recommend using 28-35 PSI on the airbrush to give optimum coverage.
In the March, 2014 issue of MR, they had a review of a number of model paints. The ones that looked like they had promise were the Acrylicos Vallejo Model Color and their Model Air line that's formulated for airbrushing, the Microlux paint line sold by Micro-Mark that is made by Acrylicos Vallejo and the Testor's Model Master Acrylics line.
I need to be able to airbrush and brush paint with the selected paint.
Opinions please?
Bob