Thanks for the comments everyone!
Joe: You've got yourself a standard hard-wire installation ahead of you. I'm assuming that's the Walthers Trainline GP9m? One of the easier locomotives I've ever installed DCC in. (The really early P2K Geeps are a huge pain! Especially the ones with the truck bolsters that somebody screwed up by swapping them with Athearn ones and totally messing up the whole loco! Try soldering tiny jumper wires to flat, smooth metal on the sides of the trucks sometime!)
What you need to do is purchase a 9 pin plug decoder, which comes with a harness with a bunch of colored wires coming off it. These colored wires each correspond to part of the locomotive. Rail A, Rail B, motor +, motor -, front headlight one, rear headlight one, and headlight common (ground for both headlights) are the main ones.
Hook all those up to the right places (the decoder package includes instructions), plug in your decoder, and then get the shell on (pretty easy in the Trainline GP9m, but much harder in other locos) and you're in business!
You'll need a soldering iron, rosin-core solder (very fine for electronics work), a damp sponge for cleaning the iron, electrical tape, and some extra small wires for jumpers between each truck (same side) and a jumper for the headlight common between the two bulbs.
A soldering stand (with clamps for the wires to be soldered) is helpful if you haven't soldered before, but I've been soldering for years and never used one, so it's not necesary. But if you're wary of the heat of the wires (they do get a bit hot if you heat them for long enough) and the solder, they do add for peace of mind.
Tyler: I think I get what you're saying (most of it, anyways!). Yes, it's the Trainline. What about the DH123D? It looks like a pretty good decoder, cheap, but not the crappiest thing out there (that would be whatever Bachmann uses in their DCC On-Board locos!). Since I'm modeling modern times, I'll probably add ditch lights, which the decoder will be able to handle.
I've never installed a decoder (the only DCC loco I currently have is the GP50, which came equipped, and although it's currently DC, my F40 comes w/ an 8-pin plug). It doesn't seem too hard, but I don't have a soldering iron. I'll just get a cheap one, since I won't be using it that much, but I'll eventually need one.
Also, I finally got my website up. I'm still working on it, but it's got a good start.
Vincent, I know you'll like this:
It's BN 1709, the GP9m. Yes, it WILL keep it's BN paint and be patched as 2201.
My Model Railroad: Tri State RailMy Photos on Flickr: FlickrMy Videos on Youtube: YoutubeMy Photos on RRPA: RR Picture Archives
It has begun! My GP35's cab and body are stripped,a dn the handrails are still soaking, as is my H-15-44 (cab almost doen, body+handrails still soaking), my GP30 is also soaking. I'm gonna order Reefer white and ATSF blue when I pick up my aribrush.
Sawyer Berry
Clemson University c/o 2018
Building a protolanced industrial park layout
The Delery Pulpwood building is PINK? Should be nice to see at West Canaan. Don't forget pics!Nice GP9m Joe. Ty has explained the decoder stuff for you. All I have is a cheap-o soldering iron, and I must have done at least 100 decoder installations/electrical repairs by now. Also, the DH123 is a great decoder for your project. That is what I install in most locomotives, for customers. Website looks good!
Sawyer, lets see some pics!
Alex
Railfan AlexSawyer, lets see some pics!
hehehe, notihng really to show now, after my GP35 is done I'll get pics oif it, then group pic after everything is stripped. the only loco spared will be the U23B in my sig. (yes, the MILW C-Liner is being stripped, will be painted into the SCRail business scheme)
Joe, your still messing with me since you patching it, lol. Just so you know, 1709 was an ex-NP GP9 and was rebuilt in 1993 as GP28P(rebuilt by EMD, Ms were Morrison Knudsen) 1599. I haven't been able to find out what the specifications of the rebuild are other than it looks more like a Gp38 than anything.
http://archive.trainpix.com/bn/EMDRBLD/GP28P/1599.HTM
I haven't done anything train related in a few days other than put a display of some of my bigger road engines on my TV stand (F45, SD45 SD45, C30-7, U30C) It looks cool, but when I put power to them, I can't hear the C30-7 because that F45 sound is on "wake the dead" loud (loud enough to hurt if you're too close it), and that is saying something since that C30-7 is likely the 2nd loudest engine I have. I'll adjust the sound to be about the same level when I start speed matching them. After the P-cola show, I'm going to go order the parts to finish off those U33Cs.
Vincent
Wants: 1. high-quality, sound equipped, SD40-2s, C636s, C30-7s, and F-units in BN. As for ones that don't cost an arm and a leg, that's out of the question....
2. An end to the limited-production and other crap that makes models harder to get and more expensive.
UPDATE: GP30 completed, GP9 is coming along. I have my factory-painted locos to strip next.
Pictures are possible later today, but no promises.
I've finished laying track, and mocked up the scene with some of the buildings I'll use, as well as placing a bunch of toy autos to show where the road in West Canaan will be. Emphasis on the TOY part, I don't have enough scale autos to put enough on the road and make it easy to see the path.
Anyway, here are the photos with captions:
Overall view. The full train (with power on the left end) is on the track that will lead to the staging yard once I get around to building the lift bridge. The pulpwood gon and loaded centerbeam car are at Delery Pulpwood & Lumber Co., and that track curving around the front and heading through the backdrop on the right is the continuous running connection.
Here's where the lift bridge will be. That's the same Conrail boxcar in the first photo. There are two lines crossing the continuous running connection at diamonds. They will go onto the bridge, and curve towards the camera, meeting at a switch and heading towards the camera into the staging yard along the wall.
Delery Pulpwood & Lumber Co. Ignore the ripped-up track.
There's the road, crossing the industry tracks and continuous run connection at an unsignaled crossing (just crossbucks, flagged by the brakeman) and a tiny little scrap transload center. I have just enough room for the fences, loading truck, and pile of scrap metal, which is trucked in.
Another overall view. That's Ogden Siding in the foreground, which got a lot shorter (it used to extend all the way to the switch for Delery and the scrap transloading center!) and can now hold 8 cars and two locos...
As usual, questions and comments are welcome...
Hows it going guys. Well i went to 2 hobby shops today and found stuff at both of them! My Hobby Town had the new BN Whiteface GP38-2 for 60 bucks! I got it and then went to a real train store and bought a decoder for my new GP38-2 and just started talking to the guys around about trains and the club they have and im thinking about joining it! Here is the best part i found a custom painted IC SD70 FINALLY i have an IC Deathstar and its a SD70 to boot! One of the guys was an EJ&E fan and he said it sucks that CN got all the good little railroads like IC, WC, and EJ&E! Man what a blast!
-Kade
Looks much better!
Will the centerbeam make it through the hole in the backdrop?
Lookin' good Ty! Can't wait to see what the lift bridge looks like.
Kade, get some pictures of your new units, sounds like they look good!
Thanks for the kind words all!
The track through the backdrop is actually straight, not at all curved, so any car will fit. And it's tall enough to fit double-stack cars, even though I don't run any.
Tyler: Excellent work on the new route! Also, thanks for the help with the wiring.
Alex: Thanks to you, too, for the help on the decoder/soldering stuff. I think I'll go with the DH123D.
Sawyer: Units look great. Can't wait to see the painted SCRail locos!
Kade: Sounds cool!
I put the patches on 2201 this afternoon. I need to figure out something to do to cover up the "1709" since it's now 2201. The camera batteries are dead, but I get out of school at 12:04 tomorrow, so I'll replace them and try to get pix up.
ns3010Tyler: I think I get what you're saying (most of it, anyways!). Yes, it's the Trainline. What about the DH123D? It looks like a pretty good decoder, cheap, but not the crappiest thing out there (that would be whatever Bachmann uses in their DCC On-Board locos!). Since I'm modeling modern times, I'll probably add ditch lights, which the decoder will be able to handle. I've never installed a decoder (the only DCC loco I currently have is the GP50, which came equipped, and although it's currently DC, my F40 comes w/ an 8-pin plug). It doesn't seem too hard, but I don't have a soldering iron. I'll just get a cheap one, since I won't be using it that much, but I'll eventually need one.
No! The DH123 decoders only have 2 functions! It won't support ditch lights unless they are always on with the headlight, and make sure not to exceed the decoders function amperage rating! The DH123 decoders also DO NOT have BEMF! I would go with the NCE D13SR, which if you get one of the newer ones has 4 functions and will support blinking ditch lights, the D13SR DOES have BEMF, and is less expensive. Tony's sells D13SR's for $15.75 and DH123's for $15.95. The D13SR is a far superior decoder! Tony's only sells the new D13SR's.
ns3010Sawyer: Units look great. Can't wait to see the painted SCRail locos!
Thanks!!! Guys, pics are in WPF; I'll post them in a few here.
Bapou ns3010 Tyler: I think I get what you're saying (most of it, anyways!). Yes, it's the Trainline. What about the DH123D? It looks like a pretty good decoder, cheap, but not the crappiest thing out there (that would be whatever Bachmann uses in their DCC On-Board locos!). Since I'm modeling modern times, I'll probably add ditch lights, which the decoder will be able to handle. I've never installed a decoder (the only DCC loco I currently have is the GP50, which came equipped, and although it's currently DC, my F40 comes w/ an 8-pin plug). It doesn't seem too hard, but I don't have a soldering iron. I'll just get a cheap one, since I won't be using it that much, but I'll eventually need one. No! The DH123 decoders only have 2 functions! It won't support ditch lights unless they are always on with the headlight, and make sure not to exceed the decoders function amperage rating! The DH123 decoders also DO NOT have BEMF! I would go with the NCE D13SR, which if you get one of the newer ones has 4 functions and will support blinking ditch lights, the D13SR DOES have BEMF, and is less expensive. Tony's sells D13SR's for $15.75 and DH123's for $15.95. The D13SR is a far superior decoder! Tony's only sells the new D13SR's.
ns3010 Tyler: I think I get what you're saying (most of it, anyways!). Yes, it's the Trainline. What about the DH123D? It looks like a pretty good decoder, cheap, but not the crappiest thing out there (that would be whatever Bachmann uses in their DCC On-Board locos!). Since I'm modeling modern times, I'll probably add ditch lights, which the decoder will be able to handle. I've never installed a decoder (the only DCC loco I currently have is the GP50, which came equipped, and although it's currently DC, my F40 comes w/ an 8-pin plug). It doesn't seem too hard, but I don't have a soldering iron. I'll just get a cheap one, since I won't be using it that much, but I'll eventually need one.
Yep, the DS13R is a fine choice also Joe. Just be sure that the PC board doesn't come in contact with anything, to avoid any shorts.
If you go the way of the DH123D, then yes, you will not have independant control of your ditch lights. They would have to be controlled by the headlight function. If you really do prefer Digitrax products over NCE, you could get the DH163D, which is pretty much Digitrax's equivalent to the D13SR.
The only reason I said you could go with the DH123D is because that's what my hobby shop sells, so I am used to using Digitrax's products. I'd have to special order any other manufacturer's decoders, which takes 2-4 weeks, which is a lot longer than pulling a Digitrax product off the shelf!
EDIT: Almost time to start a new thread I guess...