I know what the secret decals are! But I can't say...
Haven't done much to the layout recently. Or at least, anything worthy of note. I did get an engine for my younger brother's layout as well as a transfer caboose that'll go into service on the WRS with some paint touchups and handrail repairs.
EDIT:
Railfan AlexI will read the posts soon, but I guess we'll be moving soon. Already May? I thought it was still March. I hate this time of year, when you don't know if your yogurt is expired because you can't remember if MA is May or March..
I don't know why anyone would go to the bother to create a shorthand for May. Sure, Nov. is really easier than typing November, but May? It's already a three letter word!
And "MA" is shorthand for "Massachusetts" in most places... I would know!
It's also what little kids cry for a lot.
I've weathered one of my 62' foot tanks. I don't have any pictures since I can't find a camera. It's an NATX one, just faded it a bit and added dust along the bottom. I didn't put any rust since it'd only be a few years old in my era.
Vincent
Wants: 1. high-quality, sound equipped, SD40-2s, C636s, C30-7s, and F-units in BN. As for ones that don't cost an arm and a leg, that's out of the question....
2. An end to the limited-production and other crap that makes models harder to get and more expensive.
~G4
19 Years old, modeling the Cowlitz, Chehalis, and Cascade Railroad of Western Washington in 1927 in 6X6 feet.
I've been planning my first operating session... And trying not to get overwhelmed...
I need to come up with a list of special instructions... "Under no circumstances, DO NOT shove more than 8 cars around the 22" radius curve at the foot of the east slope!"
TrainManTyI've been planning my first operating session... And trying not to get overwhelmed...I need to come up with a list of special instructions... "Under no circumstances, DO NOT shove more than 8 cars around the 22" radius curve at the foot of the east slope!"
Now why would that be?
I can't wait to put your WRS units on the ground at West Formanek. Maybe you should assign me to the work extra. I could sit around on the carshop leads, and drink sodas, then JUMP INTO ACTION!
lol
Anyways... Tyler's decals should be here by next friday. The MSRR GP38-2s tomorrow or monday, and the RFP GP40-2s are unbeknownst to me...
Alex
TrainManTy I've been planning my first operating session... And trying not to get overwhelmed... I need to come up with a list of special instructions... "Under no circumstances, DO NOT shove more than 8 cars around the 22" radius curve at the foot of the east slope!"
You and GG, must live pretty close together, I don't know of ANYONE who lives near me and is in to model railroading. So, usually, if I run trains, it's by myself. Now, I just thought of my dad, he's into O gauge, but maybe if I get a layout built for two operators, he may just have sympathy on his son. I haven't had a chance to go into the club in town, not old enough. So, you guys are LUCKY.
Not exactly...
My preferred travel is a 10 minute walk, 20 minute bus ride, 40 minute train ride, and 30 minute car ride.
The other choice is a 15 minute bus ride, 30 minute subway ride, 105 minute train ride, and 15-20 minute car ride.
Depending on how long his mom feels like driving its either 100 minutes, or 165-170 minutes...
Well, between soccer, school, and my girlfirend, I've managed to do two things:
A) design new SCRail paint schemes
B) completly change, yet again, my layout idea (this time using my 4x8 table, which will MAJORLY simplify benchwork (it's all built and completely movable)
And on that note, I will post the two paint schemes, and will at some layter date fill y'all in on the next layout (when I've got it all planned out, etc. (got the mainline planed, but probably going to add a small yard and maybe an industrial area (MAYBE!!) that will be added after my next b-day)
Geep/SD standard cab scheme (GE units will have the entire short hood painted blue)
[images posted w/ permission of auuthor and MR forum (7/18/08)]
And on the Alco scheme, there aren't battery boxes on the rs-1, so they will most likely be painted white on all Alco units.
And I will shut up about my layout plan changes (proably change # 2 dozen or so, lol)
Sawyer Berry
Clemson University c/o 2018
Building a protolanced industrial park layout
TrainManTy I know what the secret decals are! But I can't say...
Awww, who ruined the surprise?
My Youtube Channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/JR7582 My Flickr Photos: http://www.flickr.com/photos/wcfan/
WCfanTrainManTy I know what the secret decals are! But I can't say... Awww, who ruined the surprise?
Oh stop scapegoating me...
Well I'm ticked.
On ebay there was a C30-7 and 2 SD40-2s all with QSI sound/DCC on ebay. Unfortunately, they both went well over 220 bucks. Guess I'll give trainworld a call to see if they have any of the C30-7s left, I called a few days ago any they were out of SD40-2s.... Curse limited production..... The search goes on for those units.
You better be excited to see the painted WRS units. I'm just waiting on the roadname decals, but they're completely painted, and the nose stripes have been added.
8569
9423
Nice GG, nice!
I have some stuff to post, soon, soon!
AWESOME paint work GG.
Alex, looking forward to the pictures man!
AS to me, I'm slowly, slowly trying to figure my layout out. ordering soem stuff this weekend, so now gotta stay focused on my current plan, lol.
The units just got a pre-decal clear coat, so they'll be ready when the decals from Dan arrive.
GG, nice units! I've seen an interesting horsehead unit on ebay, gp40. $17, Jackpot! I have 15, I'll have 5 by next week (allowance) so, maybe I can talk my dad into buying it. I'll pay him the rest next week.
Page 4? Time to bump this thread back to Page 1...
I've been working on planning out a new staging yard to add to my layout...
I did a little splurging as of late. I bought a BLI C30-7 with QSI sound DCC (for $204 shipped) and an ebay mixed lot of 4 85' intermodal flats and 2 RDCs (all Athearn). I don't know what I'll do with those RDCs, I just got it for the flats.
Of course now I have to add weight to them. The weight kit is expensive, so I might just buy one and make casts of it.
You better be excited...
Looks good, and I see the font style has changed from the first one (the GP9m). Where'd you get the decals, the font looks really close to the one BN used to patch units (I have that SD24 that needs to be patched)
In other news, I bought another engine. An athearn RTR GP35 for 35 bucks. I should have more 35s than 30s, since BN had 75 and 55 respectively. I have 5 GP30s and 2 GP35s. Look's like I'll be buying another sound-equipped GP30 someday. Maybe I'll figure out how to put the soud-equipped P2K chassis under the athearn GP35 shell. My engine total is still 27 since I got rid of the UP engines.
They were custom by Dan of http://www.danresincasting.com
They're looking pretty spiffy right now on the shelf, waiting to run on Saturday.
Units look great, Alex! I noticed the font change as well, and think this one looks more modern. Is it just me, or are the two locos slighly different colors? 9423 looks a lot redder, while the GP7 looks more brownish. Is that just the light though?
I think I hit 8569 with less red, and because of the black undercoat it looks more maroon. In person it looks a bit redder. I've had surprising luck with the decals this time. Last time they were really fragile, but this time they seem to be fine. The Large logos did not fit below the radiators, so I put the small logos on. I think the big logos should fit on the other units (except 5187, or whatever it is)
It wouldn't surprise me if the GP7 had an older paint scheme. That might account for the paint color difference.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S53K6J7Zvlw I got the mars light working on my U28B. 5451 in an ex-CB&Q unit, instead of adding a beacon to it, I'm letting keep it's mars light. Just wish that the QSI sound ones allowed this. Now I have the fun of doing that or adding operating beacons to all of my units. The SD9s and GP9s will be the toughest since I'll have to add new headlight fixtures if I want to do mars lights.
I went to Tyler's house yesterday and I think he was happy with the geeps. I'm still waiting to see the ops session video.
You think I was happy with them? They're great! I love 'em!
Here's some photos. Video of 9423 (the GP18) on the pass will be up in a few days.
Comparison between old (1701 in front) and new (9423 in back).
And here's the updates on the staging yard extension. The mainline through WRJ has been torn up for the track, the yard lead has been relocated (thanks Alex!) and the loop track near the backdrop has been installed up to the diamond. That's the mainline on the loop track, which is the one closest to the backdrop.
Right now the yard lead is the mainline, because the mainline won't be running at the ops session. Tyler, did you connect the main to the switch yet, or are they still separated. Also, you need to start on the scenery I gave you!
Yes, that's correct. The meets in WRJ will happen on A/D 1 and A/D 2.
No, I haven't connected those up yet. Just a few pieces of flextrack will do it, I haven't had the time to work on it yet though. And yes, I do need to work on scenery...
Here's a shot of my freshly painted (thanks, Alex!) GP18 #9423 leading local 42T westbound over the pass, complete with dubbed-in sounds as usual. Yes, Vincent, that is the same transfer caboose you're thinking of!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=15mqqIeu2Ng
Enjoy!
Looks good, and good to see that the GP-18 (was IC) and Caboose (made entirely out of scraps, save for the couplers and coupler boxes) are getting some work done on your layout.
BTW, did you put the screens back on the grilles behind the cab? Doesn't look like they are on in that video.
If anywhere, they'd be in the locomotive box... But when I packaged up the locos to give to Alex, they weren't there... I wonder where I put that little baggie with all the small parts!
They were there when you got it, right?
Anyways, my C30-7, 2 RDCs, Gp35, and 4 85' flats should be here in a few days. Pics when they arrive. Still no clue what to do with the RDCs.
They're Athearn... They are too short, and fall short dimensionwise. If you really want RDC's buy the 20$ Proto ones from trainworld.
I didn't want the RDCs, but they were included with the 4 85' flats. For what I paid for the lot, the RDCs were pretty much free. Here's the link of it:http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=320365916482
I'll probably just throw them back on ebay, using the "rare," vintage," and "collectible" in the listing.
I don't really want RDCs, since Amtrack didn't have a lot of them in use on BN trackage. BN did have RDCs (they were the NPs), but they never did anything with them.
Page 5 guys? Come on!
I finished 7 pairs of feeders in the Lebanon yard last night, but I doubt anyone wants to see photos of them... Feeders aren't the most interesting subject matter out there!
I also am placing the layout more specifically, elimanating the freelanced towns and replacing them with prototype towns. From west to east: WRJ is now Lebanon, NH, New Poland is now Mascoma, the pass now follows a prototype alignment along Mascoma Lake (perfectly prototypical with the curve, and almost to scale even!), Dooley is now Enfield, Stude is now West Canaan, and West Formanek is now Canaan.
I am taking some liberty with the town arrangements, as the distances between them are shortened, and most of the towns aren't arranged like the real ones. I'm justifying though, since the prototype towns basically stopped growing back in the 60s/70s when the rail service started declining.
West Formanek/Canaan is very close to the prototype town however. Look at this map and (if you're not already on top of it) find the Northern Rail Trail on the southern end of the town. Then find Williams Park and look across Depot Street. Look! It's Delery Pulpwood!
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=canaan+nh&sll=43.645338,-72.012795&sspn=0.006739,0.012671&ie=UTF8&ll=43.645563,-72.012516&spn=0.006739,0.012671&t=h&z=17&iwloc=A
Yesterday when I got back from work, there was a box at my door. In it was the mixed lot of 4 85 foot flats and 2 RDCs arrived. The RDC are really diry and rusty, so later on this week I'm going to bead-blast them. The RDCs are metal, so it won't be like those Kato C425s... They are undecorated, but after I beadblast them, I'll paint them silver then throw them on epay.
Out the the 4 flats, a RI blue, a TTX brown, and a yellow and a black WP. The flats are in good shape. A few broken stirrups on them, but most were repairable; the ones on the black WP one were missing so I bent some out of staples (staples are good for making stirrups since they are flat like the protoypes). They didn't have the container shoes and a few were missing bridge plates and one missing trailer hitch. I also paln to buy one set of the PPW/ALine weights for these; then use clay to make casts of those weights so I won't have to cough up 14 bucks a car.
According to UPS, my Athearn RTR Gp35 should be here today!! I think I got a pretty good deal at 35 bucks. Still no word on my BLI C30-7 with QSI sound from Internet Hobbies that I ordered a week ago. I put UPS 3-day shipping on it, so it should be here by now. Hopefully it comes today.
TrainManTy West Formanek/Canaan is very close to the prototype town however. Look at this map and (if you're not already on top of it) find the Northern Rail Trail on the southern end of the town. Then find Williams Park and look across Depot Street. Look! It's Delery Pulpwood! http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=canaan+nh&sll=43.645338,-72.012795&sspn=0.006739,0.012671&ie=UTF8&ll=43.645563,-72.012516&spn=0.006739,0.012671&t=h&z=17&iwloc=A
That's pretty cool Ty!
Speaking of Canaan, look what happened there in 1907! I guess not much has changed in 90 years...
http://www.gendisasters.com/data1/nh/trains/canaan-trainwreck1907.htm
Well, I'm planning the other side of my 4x8 (just sketchign it really, b/c the RTS plan wouldn't bend like I wanted it to). THe side which was going to be a mountain pass will now appear to be a rail line oparreling a river. THe other side will most likely have a fertilizer plant (only the area where fertilizer is shipped out will be modeled (ACF centerflow hoppers etc.), and then probably a paper mill or some other large industry. I won't know for sure until I have the track layed down and such. I've also figured out how to create a yard that has an A/D on each side (will tell more abt. that this summer when I have time to create a good SCRail history).
Woof... P2k Undec Geeps are a female dog... My hands are glue covered after adding 3 dozen grab irons, MU hoses, handrails, grills and whatnot to two GP18s. From now on I don't care... No more P2k Undecs... I'll just have to strip paint off pre assembled models... Plastic Grabs fly far.
BAH
Guilford Guy Woof... P2k Undec Geeps are a female dog... My hands are glue covered after adding 3 dozen grab irons, MU hoses, handrails, grills and whatnot to two GP18s. From now on I don't care... No more P2k Undecs... I'll just have to strip paint off pre assembled models... Plastic Grabs fly far. BAH
Yea from what you said Alex on the phone, those Geep seemed like a major female dog!
Tyler, that's neat that you could match your towns to proto-typical towns.
Alex, so are P2K GP7s! I just finished adding jumpers between the trucks of 8569, and now I need to rip out all the wiring to reduce how many of bulky joints between wires and all that stuff so I can get the shell to fit. Also, the frame is bent (don't worry, I didn't do that! It was already like that!) and I destroyed the coupler cut bar and knocked off the horn and air hoses while trying to add the shell and coupler boxes... Which don't fit, by the way.
I HATE HARD-WIRING DECODERS!
WCfanGuilford Guy Woof... P2k Undec Geeps are a female dog... My hands are glue covered after adding 3 dozen grab irons, MU hoses, handrails, grills and whatnot to two GP18s. From now on I don't care... No more P2k Undecs... I'll just have to strip paint off pre assembled models... Plastic Grabs fly far. BAH Yea from what you said Alex on the phone, those Geep seemed like a major female dog! Tyler, that's neat that you could match your towns to proto-typical towns.
Does it make any sense to glue the hoods to the cab to the sill on an UNDECORATED model... I had to tear into it to disassemble it because all my models are done with the cab painted separately. It makes no sense. Now I shall go fret about finding paint for the WRS units before Saturday.
Alex: Obviously the WRS units would be best if painted by Saturday, but if not we can run with masking tape reporting marks and/or with the other four operable units leading (two from another operator). Then you can paint them after the session and deliver them a week or two later. Don't kill yourself...
Thing is they've already been prepped for painting. I'm gonna take the Orange line to Malden today with a friend and go to Charles Ro, because I think they have Soo Line Red, and Engine Black.
Alex, if you're having trouble getting the mounting pegs in the holes, try enlargeing the holes just a little bit with a pin vise and a bit. I've had to do this a few times when installing the details on my Atlas SD24s (dunno why atlas engines aren't fully assembled) or replacing handrails on some of my other engines.
Tyler, I though it was the C&O Geep that wasn't working right, not 8569. P2Ks are sometimes a pain to get the shell on (almost all of them are). I have a few tips for them that's made mine a lot easier to put on:1. I've found than sometimes a little bit of filling here and there usually helps a lot. On the inside of the shell and the weight, look for any burs or rough spots and file them smooth.2. Run any sort of wiring through the channels in the frame, and secure them with tape (I use electrical tape, but if you have Krepton tape that'd work better).3. When putting the shell on, sometimes it helps to lift up gently on the pilots.4. Don't force the shell on, or you'll end up bending the walways (or breaking details) on the ends of the units. If it don't fit, look to see what's causing it.
A tip keeping the soldering joints fairly smooth is to find some way to line up the ends of the 2 wires so they overlap at a 180 degree angle (okay, that's kind of hard to explain) when soldering them. If you end up with any burs, find something to cut them off with (I use a set of flush-cuting pliers) of file them down. Also use heat-shring tubing. The first engine I applied these pratices to was that Kodachrome GP30.
Anyways, my GP35 arrived yesterday when I was off at college.
It's a decent looking engine (correct horn location for ex-GN units) and runs pretty well (It's a tad noisy, but I've only and it about 9 feet or so which helped a bit from when I first started it). Not a bad deal at 35 bucks. I do want to find lightbulbs like the type that are in it since they do put out a good bit of light and I have a few other Athearn engines that would benefit from having those instead of a LED behind a crappy lense (mainly in my SW1500s).
I think some of my units are starting to get a bit arthritic in the joints since I haven't ran them in several months. Doesn't help that both of my parents decided that I'm not allowed to have a layout of any sort (loop of E-Z track included) anywhere in the house. I probaly should make a test track on a shelf or start leasing.
Still no sign of my C30-7, I'll be sending them an e-mail today to see what's up.
I put 8569's shell on the C&O geep's frame, since 8569's frame is completely dissasembled and without a decoder. I'll reassemble it sometime in the future once the shell is painted and I get a decoder for it.
And the frame is a bit bent, so on that unit it always takes a bit of force to fit the shell on. The problem is that the taped solder joints take up so much room inside the shell. If they weren't so tall, the shell would go on fine.
Wouldn't the USRA ban a loco if it's frame was bent?
Is the C&O geep is from the older run where the shell is held on by clips like the GP18's instead of screws? Does the PRR geep's shell bow up near the middle when on the C&O frame? If both are the case, the problem is that the post for the screws on the PRR geep is hitting the frame, since the C&O geeps frame won't have a hole for it. If not, take it apart and bend the frame back.
I sent internet hobbies an e-mail regarding the C30-7. Almost immediately, I got a UPS tracking information e-mail. So it should be here this weekend. Now to find some SD40-2s.
Its not that they won't fit... It just took awhile to install all the parts. Disassembling it was much more difficult...
Anyways, the orange line was completely screwed up with ATO problems, and after we made it one stop in 12 minutes, we got off and abandoned the efforts. We walked around "Slummerville" looking at MBTA work equipment and the Sperry Doodlebug. After half an hour I found a grassy slope up to the MBTA's lowell line, and when I get to the top, Guilford's idling with a dozen cars. We then walked a block Northwards to a large iron truss bridge over the tracks, and found GP40 319 sitting there with a dozing crew. After catching a few commuter trains we gave up the chase (he had to be home by 7, and it was quarter of 6) and walked to MBTA's greenline station where he caught a trolley home, and I a bus.
Tomorrow I'm going to try another attempt on Charles Ro, this time via Bus.
I got lucky. Upon arriving at home there was the Walthers Box on the doorstep. After I shower (It is 88º) I'll start in on the 4 units.
29oC or 84oF! Pretty warm for Spring.
That's good! I had gone as far to develop an operating plan with just two WRS units plus two that an operator is bringing! One loco per each manifest (there are two), one unit as helper for helping under-powered trains over the pass, and 9423 works both the yard job and local.
Hopefully all four will be done for Saturday...
All 4 are painted and assembled. Tomorrow I'll do the decalling. I've been working on the units for the past 4 hours- yuck.
FINALLY! progress! although no pictures yet, I have layed track on the 4 "dioramas" that will make up my modular layout. I have sodlered two of them, and planning to solder a third tonight. Also, I will hopefully get a boxcar back into service (been down because i ran out of semi-gloss halfway through spraying it), and also might get a second layer of powder down on my plastic pellet hoppers. Pictures this weekend, hopefully!
Sorry about that, Alex... I feel guilty now... Good news about the op. session though! 9:36 into Littleton will work (we'll figure out the return trip when you're here, making sure to use the Saturday schedule, and I've got two other operators coming! Should be a good session!
I don't think Sidd is which is too bad.
Right now 2306, 1402, and 2257 are sitting on the table awaiting dullcote. I had some extra time and decalled the 3. I'll get to 5817 tomorrow. When I get there Saturday morning, we'll have to resolder the motor lead, as it came unattached from the board.
Wow, haven't been in here for a while. Where do I start....
Since last time, I changed the theme of my layout (most of you guys probably know about this already). Still the same layout, just not the Watchinson Secondary anymore. Now it's the Watchinson Line, part of my freelanced regional, the Tri-State Railway. The layout is still the same, just not the same RR. For pix, see my flickr page (link is in my sig).
Since last time, I aquired an Athearn BB (dummy) SW1500, painted in NJT colors. It is now 1300 on the TSRy. I just need a powered chassis for it (I'll buy a powered model, and paint the shell as 1302. Then, I'll just swap the shells back and forth on the powered frame). I'm also gonna get a GP9m this weekend, and it will become TSRy 2201.
I think that's just about it. I have a few pix to upload, but that's it. I'm down the shore (It's the first day of summer!), which means no layout for the weekend. Once school ends, it'll be no layout for two months. But if I get an airbrush, more locos, and whatever else, I'll find something to do. And there's the NJCL in Bay Head and Pt. Pleasant within biking distance (and a LHS in PPB that I've never been to (next to the NJT station), so I'll have to check it out), so I plan on doing some railfanning. And of course go to the beach.
My Model Railroad: Tri State RailMy Photos on Flickr: FlickrMy Videos on Youtube: YoutubeMy Photos on RRPA: RR Picture Archives
Murphy hates me... Long Story Short, I'm completely redoing 2306, and it had the best paint (it was the decals I was unhappy with) and hoping I can finish it tonight. Right now I'm waiting for it to dry, then shooting it with the black primer, and red atop that. Pretty much the entire left side looked horrible after removing the decals, so I semi-stripped it back to Chessie Paint, and now am going to hit it again...
Guilford Guy Murphy hates me... Long Story Short, I'm completely redoing 2306, and it had the best paint (it was the decals I was unhappy with) and hoping I can finish it tonight. Right now I'm waiting for it to dry, then shooting it with the black primer, and red atop that. Pretty much the entire left side looked horrible after removing the decals, so I semi-stripped it back to Chessie Paint, and now am going to hit it again...
That sucks man. hope you get it worked out.
Joe, looking good man!
ok, my news: I have finished weathering my Family lines boxcar, and also have soldered up all the dioramas for my small layout. Also, the hoppers have the second coat sealed. I need to do several more coats of powders on those though, but they will hopefully look excellent when done! My next project will not be that bachmann hopper, rathr improving on another boxcar I weathered a long time ago. here's the pic of what it looked like when I finished it last, will add more rust etc. to even it out:
Somewhat.
The new paint on it doesn't look great, but not as bad, and the decals are much better. All 4 units and the boxcar are packed for transport tomorrow.
Regarding your weathering... Work from real railcar pix. A car with undistinguishable reporting marks is a prime candidate for a repaint, and most cars don't get that dirty.
You might want to try a technique for fading wiht Dullcote and Alcohol, and then add some rust spots with model glue, fine brush, and chalks.
Spray the car with dullcote, and when this is dry use a brush to apply a thin layer of rubbing all over the car. The car will fade to a sunbleached look before your eyes. Another coat of dullcote reverses this.
For rust spots, add a bit of model glue with a toothpick, the add a bit of rust colored chalks with the other end. Use the brush in vertical strokes to bleed the rust down the car side, keeping it out of the glue. You can take more liberty on the roof. I've seen some cars with nice car sides, but a completely rust covered roof.
Peace
Guilford GuyRegarding your weathering... Work from real railcar pix. A car with undistinguishable reporting marks is a prime candidate for a repaint, and most cars don't get that dirty. You might want to try a technique for fading wiht Dullcote and Alcohol, and then add some rust spots with model glue, fine brush, and chalks.Spray the car with dullcote, and when this is dry use a brush to apply a thin layer of rubbing all over the car. The car will fade to a sunbleached look before your eyes. Another coat of dullcote reverses this. For rust spots, add a bit of model glue with a toothpick, the add a bit of rust colored chalks with the other end. Use the brush in vertical strokes to bleed the rust down the car side, keeping it out of the glue. You can take more liberty on the roof. I've seen some cars with nice car sides, but a completely rust covered roof.PeaceAlex
Surprisingly, for once, I have everything to do that. I'll try the alcohol alter today. As to the weathering on it, I wanted to just slap a bunch of powder on this one way back, lol. I think it looks terrible, and it's my own weathering, lol!
Alex, didn't know about the rubbing alcohol and dullcote fading bit. I'll have to try that out on some of the cars I have. It's kind of important since the BN had some holdings in deserts, and I have a lot of UP, SP, and SF equipment. (roads with a lot of desert trackage)
I finally got word on the C30-7, according to UPS it'll be here Tuesday. Two weeks after I placed the order. Going to Tallahasee tommorrow, hopefully I can get something.
On the alcohol thing, it worked ok, but it looks more like salt build-up than anything. however, now I can scrape all that off, and the powder as wll, and start anew. Which I think I'm going to do w/ those hoppers (screw up ONCE on a coat of semi-gloss, and the car is wrecked).
I ordered my track and rail joiners from my LHS today. should ahve it next weekend. Also got some stuff to paly around w/ creating a river.
I think that might happen if you have chalks underneath it. Try it on a clean car, it should work better.
I found these on Tyler's Photobucket... >_<
The ops session went well, with only two derailments. The Post Ops Session screwing around was disastrous. 31 Car freights don't work well on 4% grades, and 22" radius curves, with 5 locomotives thrown in various places on the train.
Ops session derail caused by a car picking the switch
Ops session derail caused by bad track
Post Ops derailments...
Lastly, All the painted WRS units. Sorry to steal your wind Tyler, but those pictures needed to be seen!
In the two and a half years that I've been a member of my club, I've never seen so many derailments! How can you guys have all that in one day?
And at the club, the only way we managed to flip cars on their side is when there were head on/rear end collisions!
All kidding aside now, the paint looks nice on the WRS units. Close up pictures please!
Grrrr. I was almost done with a post, and my internet closed itself-again.
GG-Excelent work on the WRS units! Now it looks like a railroad-not a random assembly of various locomotives!
Sawyer- Great job on the boxcar and the layout!
I have an old boxcar that I recently retired, that I was going to use as a shed in the yard. Since it will be repainted anyway (it's currently in Conrail paint with a crapload of graffiti), maybe I'll try that Dullcote/Alcohol weathering thing.
I ordered 2201 this afternoon. Since it's the holiday weekend, it'll probably be here towards the end of the week.
To make a long story short, I have to make a change in my plans. Instead of getting a second SW1500 and making it into 1302, I'll make it into 1301.
Guilford Guy
Who's this geek here? Great going Alex! Way to fail! lol, just kidding. I like the WRS units.
Alex, In the MR club I was a member of, that was an hour's worth of derailments. Almost always the tracks fault.
GG, WRS units look good.
Tyler, since GG stole your thunder on posting the pics, how do explain the red numberboards on the GP30? Taking a page from protoypes could yeild it as a rebuild or experimental loco.
BN had a few units with Red and few with Yellow numberboards. The Reds were used on C33-7s and C36-7s (rebuilt C30-7s; rather rare), IIRC,both Reds and Yellows were used on other engines when they were used as experments to try different fuels or oils; red for Texaco, yellow for Shell. I saw the latter a while back, bbut I lost the link.
I wasn't looking forward to redecalling numberboards, so I used the stock ones which happened to be red.
The only derailments at the session were the ones at LeBlanc Cement, and De Lery Pulpwood. The switch to the De Lery and the switch to LeBlanc are both faulty and need to be worked on. Wrestling 30+ heavy/light cars over a 4% grade, around S curves, and with locomotives pushing, and pulling, and stalling causing slack to run in and out, usually stringlines cars, or shoves them off the edge.
Jordan... No idea?
ns3010Now it looks like a railroad-not a random assembly of various locomotives!
Now it looks like a railroad-not a random assembly of various locomotives!
Actually, now it looks like a war zone... I've still got Alex's sand spill in Mascoma (formerly New Poland), pulpwood in the river in Canaan (formerly W. Formanek), and a 36 car train strung over the pass.
The only thing I have to say in my railroad's defense is that, the only derailments caused by bad track were the one in Mascoma, and the few in Canaan.
The rest were caused by a 36 car train with three locos on the front and three pushers behind the caboose, and enough 22" radius curves to make one and a half full circles! Even with the locomotive speeds perfectly matched (which they weren't), the friction of that many cars going around the 4/3 circle curve at the summit, plus the 4% grade, is enough to stringline the cars closer to the head end, and shove the ones closer to the rear off the tracks on the outside of the curve.
And Alex completely rejected my idea of a midtrain helper, until I added one about 10 cars back from the head end, and it worked fine until we split the train, and both tried to rejoin it... The head end backed up, the rear end went forward, and we dumped some cars off the tracks. If I hadn't planted trees at the edge of the layout, I'd have several cars on the floor right now!
We finally cut off the rear end helpers and added some mid-train helpers, and made it over the pass (almost) without incident.
I've now limited train length to 15 cars, long enough to require helpers, but short enough to make it over the hill if both the head end and helpers are working together.
EDIT: Alex, I think you had too much fun causing train wrecks...
Here's a link to the operating session report thread.
Results - My first operating session
Tyler: Glad to hear that your ops session went (mostly) well.
I was going to ask my parents if we could stop at a hobby shop on the way home tomorrow, but I spent all the money I had on sunglasses, and I went to Wawa (best place ever!) for lunch. But I went job hunting today, so hopefully I'll make some money this summer (if I get a job, and I already "w**k" at a place on Saturday nights [it's a kind of "if they need you and if you can come" job]).
Alex, I was actually able to make something out of our attempts to make the grade with 36 cars... Now I just need to give it a cheesy title like "MUST SEE!!!! TRAIN DERAILS ON CAMERA!!!!!"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-5k701eD9eo
Tyler, Good to see that ops session went well.
Regarding your 36 car train, I've ran 50+ car fast freights up 3% grades before with out problems (gratned the engines were all on the head end; and I had about 4-2 times as much power as was needed). Does that extra 1% make that much of a difference? Or could the helpers be running too fast? I don't know much about using helpers on Model railroad since I've never used them (I should, my prototype did like 5-8 engines on the front, and 2-4 on the back based on the youtube videos I have)
Went to Pensacola today, but came back with nothing. Wishing I would have stayed home and worked on some of my stuff. Despite that I finally found that tube of silicone sealent that has been evading me for a while, so I should be able to finish GP35 2507 soon, and improve the sound quality of my SD9, which was my first sound install. The SD9 has a NCE DA-SR, with a MRC sounder wired to the track pick-ups on the DA-SR. The speaker is a box speaker with a baffle that I cut the closed end off so I wouldn't have to modify the weight. Then I used Double-sided ducttape to secure it. Turns out the tape isn't airtight. Silicone would fix that. I'm thinking of putting in a soundtraxx and replacing the speaker with a oval one; but that'll wait (like I am for that C30-7 to arrive)
I also came up with a solution to the dilema regarding an engine I bought a few months ago. That Sound-equipped U30C with the 2nd gen EMD sound. I figure if I can get lucky enough to pickup a few SD40-2s at the Pensacola show, I could proably throw the decoder into one of them. The C30-7's sound will suffice for the U30C and U33Cs.
The grade is a piece of cake. It's the curve that kills you! That curve is almost a 3/4 circle, and you've got the head end pulling on one end, and the friction of the 20+ cars before the helpers on the other end. That's a sure-fire situation for a stringlining wreck.
The only way to get out of that is by placing mid-train helpers every 7 cars or so, which unfortunetely brings up the problem of individual control. If both engineers had DT400s with duel throttle knobs, it might be possible, but with just UT4s (one knob) it's impossible to control that many locos at the same time.
Okay, that explains it. The grades I was on with the 50+ car trains only did a 1/2 circle, straight about a foot and a half, than another 1/2-circle. (Yes, it was a helix). Would using broader curves (like 30" and up) make it easier? I ask because I have been wanting helper operations for when I build a big layout of my own (many years down the road). Throwing all the helpers on the head-end would probably work, but it isn't really prototypical:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CntEdKRnz5Qhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tMQX7Pd7F80http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ygab6YnYrOI
All those vids are of BN coal drags. They have a bunch of engines up front and around three in the back.
I really like that last video. Pretty neat show, with the helper cutoff and all.
I really have to stay with this thread. I have one more section of roadbed from my 4x8 layout left, I'll probably get that tommorow, then it's on to purchasing more code 83 flextrack. I am modeling Central Pennsylviania Lines (as I've said on the Teen MR forums.) Listening to A7X right now, gonna go up to a friends soon. I'm gonna be modeling patchouts untill I get a can of propelant. That'll be when I get to State College next. My order of AIM weathering powders is in at the LHS, and it's on to weathering then! YAY! I don't know if I'll include the NS interchange on my layout. Well, gotta get my clothes ready so untill later.
I HAVE 6 LEGS! 2 are people legs, and 4 are layout legs. Next weekend I'll get a 4x8 sheet of plywood, and build the frame. Then that weekend or next I'll install the legs and maybe add the foam.
Sweet demonwolf.
GG, can't wait till you start building scenery. great work on the WRS units too!
Tyler, nice operating session.
ok, I'm gonna end up playing around w/ that river stuff next weekend, as well as checking out the code 55 track. Also, I will eventually get to sketching the other side of my 4x8.
GG, I'll try that on a car that lacks powder,. as of now, that boxcar is among the lord knows how many things I need to strip paint off of. anyone got suggestions for a cheap paint stripper (other than brake fluid!)
Sawyer, I would go with the code 55. I am back at the house now, and I am gonna get some mountain dew, then go down into the basement, and rip the rest up. I will sub to this thread. I don't know if you guys know this, but I'm NS9708 on the teen mr fourms.
demonwolf224Sawyer, I would go with the code 55. I am back at the house now, and I am gonna get some mountain dew, then go down into the basement, and rip the rest up. I will sub to this thread. I don't know if you guys know this, but I'm NS9708 on the teen mr fourms.
I've already ordered it.
Nice Saywer!
demonwolf224Nice Saywer!
thanks. like I said, ordered through my LHS. should be here Wednesday or Thrusday is what the guy said. I'll pick it up this weekend.
Also, my move into the bonus room of our house will be permanent until I go to college, so I'll more than likely be able to convince my parents at some point to let me add onto my 4x8.
This also means that the room color will be changed from the purplish color it is now to something else. i'm thinking New York Mets blue and orange, lol
Sawyer, 70% Alcohol makes a good paint stripper.
Railfan AlexSawyer, 70% Alcohol makes a good paint stripper.
thanks man! I've now heard 91% and 70% alcohol. Might look for that in Food Lion next time I bike up there.
Packers#1Railfan AlexSawyer, 70% Alcohol makes a good paint stripper. thanks man! I've now heard 91% and 70% alcohol. Might look for that in Food Lion next time I bike up there.
I haven't noticed any difference between the two, other than the 91% seemed to work faster.
The operating session looked fun Tyler! Great job!
Only 8 WC road units left active in the States. This is the best looking one...endangered.
I though 70% alcohol was usefull to strip dullcote if something didn't come out right.
Jordan, Did you count the SD45 at IRM?
School today was actually fun! In bio, we (FINALLY!) dissected(sp?) the starfish. I ended up doing most of the work, but I didn't mind. Next week, we get to do the frogs.
Got word that Walthers received my order today. In the past, they've been pretty fast, so it should be here on Thursday or Friday (at that point, the GP9ms [2200-2202] will officially be added to the roster). Although there are three of these units on the roster, I'm representing the fleet by modeling one of them, 2201.
Sweet units Tyler. Especially love the SDP35.
Thanks. I really like how the scheme looks on those big EMD units! Once I learn how to apply decals, I might try to put a WRS logo on the nose, and definetely one on the pug-nose U-boat #2306!
TrainManTyThanks. I really like how the scheme looks on those big EMD units! Once I learn how to apply decals, I might try to put a WRS logo on the nose, and definetely one on the pug-nose U-boat #2306!
Yeah man, those U23Bs are perfect. I'm probably gona end up getting 2 more, and a B23-7. do i need them? no. do I want them? yes. when will I get them? some time WAYYYYYYYYY in the future.
Tyler: Nice roster! Is there any reason why the numbers are random and so spread out, or is it just because? Also, decals aren't that hard, they just take a little getting used to. My first job was the bakery, and they came out pretty good. [rant]I just don't like the really long ones, because you have to get them straight without tearing them.[/rant]
For my roster, I'm trying to stay away from GEs. The locos I have come to know and love (Geeps on NS and NJT, and even an EMD prime mover in the PL42s) are all EMDs. For now, the roster is all geeps, but SDs will probably work their way in sometime in the future (and then maybe some GEs, if I'm in a good mood when I need more power!.)
[secondrant]And I was thinking before. I have 3 (4 if you count the GP9m) working models in my fleet. That is double the number of freight cars in my fleet. One of the locos is a NJT F40, and I plan to have commuter service. But I don't have any passenger cars. So I need freight cars (particularly tankers, covered hoppers, centerbeams, autoracks, and boxcars, with others mixed in). And I need passenger cars (a lot of Comet Vs, some CIIMs, and a few CIIIs and CIVs too. And maybe a set of MultiLevels [and that would require a PL42, which I wouldn't mind]. So probably enough Comets to make two trainsets, and extras so that the same cars wouldn't always be running, and six or so MLs, so that I could have a 4 car set, with a few extras.). So basically, I need to buy a lot of cars (I'll start with the freight cars and Comets).[/secondrant]
I'm working on getting my new website up. I'm gonna put the full roster up there, to make it easier to track which locos are which, which ones I actually model, and the rest that aren't modeled. Currently, there are "seven active locos, three of which are stored." One of them is modeled (4100), as well as one of the stored ones (1300). Since 1300 is a dummy, I'm saying that the SW1500s are in bad condition and need work, but TSRy doesn't have it's shops yet.
I redid the patches/numbers on the GP50 and SW1500. I printed new ones in a different font, as well as adding the loco type underneath the number.
Joe: It's because it's really, really, hard to decal those tiny little numberboards and have them turn out good... We had originally planned to number the fleet by the locomotive's horsepower, and 1701 (now retired) was numbered that way, as a GP9 (1750 HP) downrated to 1700 HP to fit with the GP7s. But that unit didn't have (and still doesn't have) printed numberboards. The rest of my fleet does, so I'm sticking with the numbers printed on the numberboards...
Packers#1Yeah man, those U23Bs are perfect. I'm probably gona end up getting 2 more, and a B23-7. do i need them? no. do I want them? yes. when will I get them? some time WAYYYYYYYYY in the future.
I probably won't ever get either of those units. Reason bieng BN didn't have and U23Bs, and they only had 6 B23-7s. A future kitbash I'm thinking of doing would be a B30-7A; starting point would be a high-nose B23-7 that would have the cab removed.
PackerPackers#1Yeah man, those U23Bs are perfect. I'm probably gona end up getting 2 more, and a B23-7. do i need them? no. do I want them? yes. when will I get them? some time WAYYYYYYYYY in the future. I probably won't ever get either of those units. Reason bieng BN didn't have and U23Bs, and they only had 6 B23-7s. A future kitbash I'm thinking of doing would be a B30-7A; starting point would be a high-nose B23-7 that would have the cab removed.
cool man.
Well, in science today, I scribbled out the predecessor roster for SCRail, as well as the few locos SCRail has purchased. I'm going to type it up in a chart in Microsoft word.
As to my layout, I'm going to plan the other side of it not in a track planning software but seeing what will work where.
Tyler: Very true. The hardest decals are the small ones, and the thin, long ones. It makes sense about how your roster was numbered.
The numberboards for my GP50 are lost (I'll do what NJT does and just put duct tape over the holes, lol), the SW1500 came with blank ones, and I'm assuming that my GP9m won't have any. My roster is more or less numbered by category or type, or whatever. Switchers are in the 1XXX series, MOW locos in the 2XXX series, and Geeps (non-MOW) in the 4XXX series. If TSRy does aquire any SDs (eventually, they almost definately will), they would more than likely be in the 3XXX series. Each class is specific loco type, and starts on a multiple of 50 (for example, Geep classes start with 4000, 4050, 4100, 4150, etc.).
Vincent: Sounds like a cool project!
Sawyer: Hmmm, that sounds exactly like what I do in geometry... Speaking of which, I have a double tomorrow... I need to find stuff that I can do to waste 83 minutes...
My C30-7 came in today, and it sounds and looks great.
Regarding the B30-7A, that'll wait until I finish myother projects. I would have scratched off my GP35 and SD9 tueday but I got sick. I'll probably scratch them off tommorrow, along with putting together the coupler mounting pads for my C424s.
I have been looking at the calcuated costs of some ofmy projects, and some of them are WAY up there. To finish up the C424s will cost close to 150 bucks due to some stuff from the Kato not fitting as planned on the Atlas shells. Then comes a sound decoder, 2 other decoders, detailing, paint, decals, and getting working beacons on the units. I'm saving this poject for last since it's the most expensive and time consuming. I've been thinking about loaning these units out in the meantime.The U33Cs are probably the least expensive but the busted up grilles on one of the units is going to be difficult to fix (worse comes to worse, cutthem off and get a second U33C shell just to cannablize for the grill). Also need to get the detail kits for these in addtion to handrails. I already have decoders in them.My U30C would probably be the easiest, but the second most expensive. Needs a Tsunami for a GE and handrails (Atlas didn't paint the walkways the right color)
ns3010The numberboards for my GP50 are lost
Did you try to cut them with an old and abused Xuron tool so they'd fit in the shell, and did they fly off into the depths of the basement? Luckily in my case we were able to find them!
Vincent: That's why I model a shortline with no sound... Getting the correct prototype details and installing sound is just so darn expensive! When I have a detail problem with one of my units, I either ignore it (nobody can tell me I'm wrong!) or have the "shop" fix it just like on a real shortline. Of course, the FRA would have a field day with all my missing grabs, broken handrails, and painted over windows and numberboards (although the paint was done by a contractor), which the shop says they'll fix "someday..."
For sound, I can live without it. My booster would fry under the load (I already have overloaded it several times, temporarally shutting it down and causing all 6 locos in Run 8 on a 4% grade to stall and dump a bunch of cars on the ground!) and it's just too expensive, to the point that if all my engines had sound, I'd have run out of money while still on the benchwork stage of my layout!
I personally like sound, but I'll acknowledge it's usually expensive. I haven't tried running more than 2 sound-equipped engines on my Zephyr, I would like to put my C30-7 and F45 together at once just for kicks. On that UP U30C that I shell-swapped and sold, I may have gotten lucky a bit since it cost me 75 bucks and the decoder in that is right for an SD40-2. So If I find an Athearn SD40-2 at the Pensacola show and put it in that, I can save a bunch of money over getting a BLI SD40-2.
I'm begging to wonder if I should sell those C424s though. BN only had 7 so they were kind of rare but I have 3 (which is really imbalanced since BN had 838 SD40-2s and I have 0). I figure if I do, I could get a decent chunk of change since those Kato drives are expensive (I've heard the drives are worth 50 bucks alone). If I change my mind, the newer Atlas C424/425s in BN seem to rarely go above 40 bucks, and they already have holes and removable weights for speakers and much better detail.
Well the camera's betteries are dead, so no pics or vids of the C30-7 till I get new batteries.
Tyler, I think you'd rather have windows that can be cleaned up with rubbing alcohol, than a broken cab and glazing... 5817 is a slug anyway ATM!
I like sound, and will only be running 3 units at most on the Lamoille Valley layout, 2 with sound, so I think I'll be okay.
I really like sound as well.
I have sound in 5 locomotives right now:
Thats just some of the projects to do this summer... I'll be happy if I get 2 done!
ns3010Sawyer: Hmmm, that sounds exactly like what I do in geometry... Speaking of which, I have a double tomorrow... I need to find stuff that I can do to waste 83 minutes...
lol, nice. I came up w/ the list of mainlines and branch lines in spanish today.
I have 9 units with sound
C30-7 5127 (QSI)U30C 5313 (Sountraxx for a turbo EMD 645 in it, Will be replaced with a Tsunami for a GE)F45 6635 (MRC)GP9 1964 (QSI)SD24 6240 (QSI)GP30 2236 (QSI)SD9 6232 (MRC Sounder)SW1500 307 (MRC Sounder in a dummy)U28B 5453 (QSI)
I wish the Zephyr had more than just 10 functions. Most of these have 12 functions, but the MRCs have at least 20.
Tyler: Yes, that is what happened... When I went to take them out, they went flying. But I found at least two, maybe three of them...EDIT: Also, congrats on having the WRS make it into the MR newsletter!
I might eventually get one or two sound locos (maybe if I get a P2K or something), but never an entire fleet.
Now FedEx is saying my GP9m wont be here until Monday. Grrr..
OMGz...I doubt any of you were aware the New England Prototype Meet was last weekend... Anyways, pictures have been posted of the new Atlas units and I love Atlas...CN Widecabs!
SP Style GP40-2
B&M GP40-2s!!!
The SP and CN units look good. What's type of U-boat is that CB&Q one behind the 1st picture of the SP/SSW Gp40-2?
I have to ask, Did they have a pre-production model of the BN GP40-2 and if they did, did you get pictures of it?
Awesome Awesome Awesome!I will get a few in QGRY, even if I have to paint them myself.
I forgot to put up the pictures of my dash-7 in that last post. Now that I think about putting a sound decoder in that U30C isn't really neccesary if I MU to this since they both would probably sound about the same. (Don't all GEs up until recently sound alike anyways?)
I'd put a video up of it's sound, but the camera doesn't have enough batteries for that. So I'll have to stop buying trains and get some batteries.
I finally figured out how to rev QSI equipped engines up. I could have some fun with that feature.
Got a call from my LHS, ym track is in. I'm going to pick it up tomorrow. Also, I'm either going to order an airbrush through my LHS or through wAlthers, if i can't through my LHS (already checked walthers, my LHS ain't listed)
I removed a backdrop today, in preparation for running the mainline perpendicular to the current mainline, crossing the aisle and entering a staging yard along the wall. Now I just need to realign the mainline.
BEFORE:
AFTER: The mainline will run along the backdrop, and it's current alignment will be filled by the town of West Canaan and some industries.
Delery Pulpwood is moving to West Canaan. It's going to be expanding, and including a wood chip loader for a shuttle service to Agrawal Paper in Enfield, and a lumberyard. Here's a shot of the owner supervising cleanup of the existing lot. Seven gondolas have been loaded with pulpwood and shipped off, and now the lot is being cleaned out into another gondola. (Oops! Forgot to load the gondola with stuff!)
looking good Tyler.
Biked up to Food Lion about an hour ago, bought some 70% alcohol (no 91% there), my GP35 is currently soaking.
Tyler: Great job on the prep work!
So my GP9m came today... but it wasn't expected until Monday. FedEx is wierd. When Walther's used USPS, it was much faster, normally it only took two days from when I sent my order until I had it. It took FedEx three days to get it to Edison. This morning, FedEx dropped it off at the local Post Office at 8:35. It was on my doorstep at 11:47. Four days for it to get to my town. 3 hours and 12 minutes from the time it arrived in town until the time it was in my hands. Wow... that doesn't leave a good impression on FedEx.
Anyway. The GP9m is pretty decent. It goes rough at low speeds, but then it goes pretty smooth (especially since I broke it in). When I opened it up, I was shocked. The wires go from the trucks, directly to the headlight and motor. Then out of the motor and headlight, and directly back to the trucks. No PC board. Extremely simple, but kinda scary. DCC in this will be a problem.
Thanks for the comments everyone!
Joe: You've got yourself a standard hard-wire installation ahead of you. I'm assuming that's the Walthers Trainline GP9m? One of the easier locomotives I've ever installed DCC in. (The really early P2K Geeps are a huge pain! Especially the ones with the truck bolsters that somebody screwed up by swapping them with Athearn ones and totally messing up the whole loco! Try soldering tiny jumper wires to flat, smooth metal on the sides of the trucks sometime!)
What you need to do is purchase a 9 pin plug decoder, which comes with a harness with a bunch of colored wires coming off it. These colored wires each correspond to part of the locomotive. Rail A, Rail B, motor +, motor -, front headlight one, rear headlight one, and headlight common (ground for both headlights) are the main ones.
Hook all those up to the right places (the decoder package includes instructions), plug in your decoder, and then get the shell on (pretty easy in the Trainline GP9m, but much harder in other locos) and you're in business!
You'll need a soldering iron, rosin-core solder (very fine for electronics work), a damp sponge for cleaning the iron, electrical tape, and some extra small wires for jumpers between each truck (same side) and a jumper for the headlight common between the two bulbs.
A soldering stand (with clamps for the wires to be soldered) is helpful if you haven't soldered before, but I've been soldering for years and never used one, so it's not necesary. But if you're wary of the heat of the wires (they do get a bit hot if you heat them for long enough) and the solder, they do add for peace of mind.
Tyler: I think I get what you're saying (most of it, anyways!). Yes, it's the Trainline. What about the DH123D? It looks like a pretty good decoder, cheap, but not the crappiest thing out there (that would be whatever Bachmann uses in their DCC On-Board locos!). Since I'm modeling modern times, I'll probably add ditch lights, which the decoder will be able to handle.
I've never installed a decoder (the only DCC loco I currently have is the GP50, which came equipped, and although it's currently DC, my F40 comes w/ an 8-pin plug). It doesn't seem too hard, but I don't have a soldering iron. I'll just get a cheap one, since I won't be using it that much, but I'll eventually need one.
Also, I finally got my website up. I'm still working on it, but it's got a good start.
Vincent, I know you'll like this:
It's BN 1709, the GP9m. Yes, it WILL keep it's BN paint and be patched as 2201.
It has begun! My GP35's cab and body are stripped,a dn the handrails are still soaking, as is my H-15-44 (cab almost doen, body+handrails still soaking), my GP30 is also soaking. I'm gonna order Reefer white and ATSF blue when I pick up my aribrush.
The Delery Pulpwood building is PINK? Should be nice to see at West Canaan. Don't forget pics!Nice GP9m Joe. Ty has explained the decoder stuff for you. All I have is a cheap-o soldering iron, and I must have done at least 100 decoder installations/electrical repairs by now. Also, the DH123 is a great decoder for your project. That is what I install in most locomotives, for customers. Website looks good!
Sawyer, lets see some pics!
Railfan AlexSawyer, lets see some pics!
hehehe, notihng really to show now, after my GP35 is done I'll get pics oif it, then group pic after everything is stripped. the only loco spared will be the U23B in my sig. (yes, the MILW C-Liner is being stripped, will be painted into the SCRail business scheme)
Joe, your still messing with me since you patching it, lol. Just so you know, 1709 was an ex-NP GP9 and was rebuilt in 1993 as GP28P(rebuilt by EMD, Ms were Morrison Knudsen) 1599. I haven't been able to find out what the specifications of the rebuild are other than it looks more like a Gp38 than anything.
http://archive.trainpix.com/bn/EMDRBLD/GP28P/1599.HTM
I haven't done anything train related in a few days other than put a display of some of my bigger road engines on my TV stand (F45, SD45 SD45, C30-7, U30C) It looks cool, but when I put power to them, I can't hear the C30-7 because that F45 sound is on "wake the dead" loud (loud enough to hurt if you're too close it), and that is saying something since that C30-7 is likely the 2nd loudest engine I have. I'll adjust the sound to be about the same level when I start speed matching them. After the P-cola show, I'm going to go order the parts to finish off those U33Cs.
UPDATE: GP30 completed, GP9 is coming along. I have my factory-painted locos to strip next.
Pictures are possible later today, but no promises.
I've finished laying track, and mocked up the scene with some of the buildings I'll use, as well as placing a bunch of toy autos to show where the road in West Canaan will be. Emphasis on the TOY part, I don't have enough scale autos to put enough on the road and make it easy to see the path.
Anyway, here are the photos with captions:
Overall view. The full train (with power on the left end) is on the track that will lead to the staging yard once I get around to building the lift bridge. The pulpwood gon and loaded centerbeam car are at Delery Pulpwood & Lumber Co., and that track curving around the front and heading through the backdrop on the right is the continuous running connection.
Here's where the lift bridge will be. That's the same Conrail boxcar in the first photo. There are two lines crossing the continuous running connection at diamonds. They will go onto the bridge, and curve towards the camera, meeting at a switch and heading towards the camera into the staging yard along the wall.
Delery Pulpwood & Lumber Co. Ignore the ripped-up track.
There's the road, crossing the industry tracks and continuous run connection at an unsignaled crossing (just crossbucks, flagged by the brakeman) and a tiny little scrap transload center. I have just enough room for the fences, loading truck, and pile of scrap metal, which is trucked in.
Another overall view. That's Ogden Siding in the foreground, which got a lot shorter (it used to extend all the way to the switch for Delery and the scrap transloading center!) and can now hold 8 cars and two locos...
As usual, questions and comments are welcome...
Hows it going guys. Well i went to 2 hobby shops today and found stuff at both of them! My Hobby Town had the new BN Whiteface GP38-2 for 60 bucks! I got it and then went to a real train store and bought a decoder for my new GP38-2 and just started talking to the guys around about trains and the club they have and im thinking about joining it! Here is the best part i found a custom painted IC SD70 FINALLY i have an IC Deathstar and its a SD70 to boot! One of the guys was an EJ&E fan and he said it sucks that CN got all the good little railroads like IC, WC, and EJ&E! Man what a blast!
-Kade
Looks much better!
Will the centerbeam make it through the hole in the backdrop?
Lookin' good Ty! Can't wait to see what the lift bridge looks like.
Kade, get some pictures of your new units, sounds like they look good!
Thanks for the kind words all!
The track through the backdrop is actually straight, not at all curved, so any car will fit. And it's tall enough to fit double-stack cars, even though I don't run any.
Tyler: Excellent work on the new route! Also, thanks for the help with the wiring.
Alex: Thanks to you, too, for the help on the decoder/soldering stuff. I think I'll go with the DH123D.
Sawyer: Units look great. Can't wait to see the painted SCRail locos!
Kade: Sounds cool!
I put the patches on 2201 this afternoon. I need to figure out something to do to cover up the "1709" since it's now 2201. The camera batteries are dead, but I get out of school at 12:04 tomorrow, so I'll replace them and try to get pix up.
ns3010Tyler: I think I get what you're saying (most of it, anyways!). Yes, it's the Trainline. What about the DH123D? It looks like a pretty good decoder, cheap, but not the crappiest thing out there (that would be whatever Bachmann uses in their DCC On-Board locos!). Since I'm modeling modern times, I'll probably add ditch lights, which the decoder will be able to handle. I've never installed a decoder (the only DCC loco I currently have is the GP50, which came equipped, and although it's currently DC, my F40 comes w/ an 8-pin plug). It doesn't seem too hard, but I don't have a soldering iron. I'll just get a cheap one, since I won't be using it that much, but I'll eventually need one.
No! The DH123 decoders only have 2 functions! It won't support ditch lights unless they are always on with the headlight, and make sure not to exceed the decoders function amperage rating! The DH123 decoders also DO NOT have BEMF! I would go with the NCE D13SR, which if you get one of the newer ones has 4 functions and will support blinking ditch lights, the D13SR DOES have BEMF, and is less expensive. Tony's sells D13SR's for $15.75 and DH123's for $15.95. The D13SR is a far superior decoder! Tony's only sells the new D13SR's.
ns3010Sawyer: Units look great. Can't wait to see the painted SCRail locos!
Thanks!!! Guys, pics are in WPF; I'll post them in a few here.
Bapou ns3010 Tyler: I think I get what you're saying (most of it, anyways!). Yes, it's the Trainline. What about the DH123D? It looks like a pretty good decoder, cheap, but not the crappiest thing out there (that would be whatever Bachmann uses in their DCC On-Board locos!). Since I'm modeling modern times, I'll probably add ditch lights, which the decoder will be able to handle. I've never installed a decoder (the only DCC loco I currently have is the GP50, which came equipped, and although it's currently DC, my F40 comes w/ an 8-pin plug). It doesn't seem too hard, but I don't have a soldering iron. I'll just get a cheap one, since I won't be using it that much, but I'll eventually need one. No! The DH123 decoders only have 2 functions! It won't support ditch lights unless they are always on with the headlight, and make sure not to exceed the decoders function amperage rating! The DH123 decoders also DO NOT have BEMF! I would go with the NCE D13SR, which if you get one of the newer ones has 4 functions and will support blinking ditch lights, the D13SR DOES have BEMF, and is less expensive. Tony's sells D13SR's for $15.75 and DH123's for $15.95. The D13SR is a far superior decoder! Tony's only sells the new D13SR's.
ns3010 Tyler: I think I get what you're saying (most of it, anyways!). Yes, it's the Trainline. What about the DH123D? It looks like a pretty good decoder, cheap, but not the crappiest thing out there (that would be whatever Bachmann uses in their DCC On-Board locos!). Since I'm modeling modern times, I'll probably add ditch lights, which the decoder will be able to handle. I've never installed a decoder (the only DCC loco I currently have is the GP50, which came equipped, and although it's currently DC, my F40 comes w/ an 8-pin plug). It doesn't seem too hard, but I don't have a soldering iron. I'll just get a cheap one, since I won't be using it that much, but I'll eventually need one.
Yep, the DS13R is a fine choice also Joe. Just be sure that the PC board doesn't come in contact with anything, to avoid any shorts.
If you go the way of the DH123D, then yes, you will not have independant control of your ditch lights. They would have to be controlled by the headlight function. If you really do prefer Digitrax products over NCE, you could get the DH163D, which is pretty much Digitrax's equivalent to the D13SR.
The only reason I said you could go with the DH123D is because that's what my hobby shop sells, so I am used to using Digitrax's products. I'd have to special order any other manufacturer's decoders, which takes 2-4 weeks, which is a lot longer than pulling a Digitrax product off the shelf!
EDIT: Almost time to start a new thread I guess...