Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam
GTX765 wrote:Ok thanks, sorry for my ignorance. I am not good with electrical.
There are types of buses where that isn't the answer, no need to apologize for asking!
Jeff But it's a dry heat!
Joe, I don't think there's much difference in cost between the good quality 3M suitcase connectors and Posi-Taps. Another offset to the cost is that you can connect up to three 18 gauge and four 22 gauge to one bus using one Posi-Tap. It's also nice, when you don't get the connection right, not to have to waste a connector. They are usually used with stranded wire but I've used them with solid bus wire without a problem. I think the only issue would be solid wire that's too big to be twisted together and fit in the small half of the Posi-Tap.
If you're a confirmed suitcase user, far be it from me to disuade you. I'd ask you just to try a box of 10 Posi-Taps, especially for lighting wiring, and see if you can't get things done a lot faster and have work that is at least as reliable as the suitcase.
jeffrey-wimberly wrote:At least soldering the connections will hold a lot longer than those connectors. Wire nuts would be best.
Yes, that could be true. But neither is appropriate for the task. As much as a lot of the code seems silly, I rather suspect that there is a history of fires behind every rule.
stebbycentral wrote: If I had answered this thread yesterday I would have given them my unqualifed approval. Tonight I'm not so sure, since I spent most of this morning rewiring a failed suitcase connection. Last year when I relocated a wall in the basement I also installed a new 120v outlet. Having used suitcase connectors with success on my layout, I decided to employ them in a little house wiring. After running a length of Romex up to the ceiling box where all of the existing outlets merge, I used the connectors to tie the new lines into an existing pair of lines. At the time it seemed to be a more elegant solution than peeling the electrical tape off of the existing wire splices and resoldering them. Well it worked for about a year, but this AM when I went to fire up the PC in the basement, I discovered I had no power! Odd given the fact that there were no tripped breakers, and every other outlet in the basement was working. Starting with the outlet itself I traced the dead circuit all the way back to the ceiling box. Apparently one of the suitcase connections failed. I ripped them both out, peelled off the tape and soldered the leads onto the old wires. The outlet and the PC is back in operation. So it appears that you should not employ these devices on heavier guage wires.
If I had answered this thread yesterday I would have given them my unqualifed approval. Tonight I'm not so sure, since I spent most of this morning rewiring a failed suitcase connection. Last year when I relocated a wall in the basement I also installed a new 120v outlet. Having used suitcase connectors with success on my layout, I decided to employ them in a little house wiring. After running a length of Romex up to the ceiling box where all of the existing outlets merge, I used the connectors to tie the new lines into an existing pair of lines. At the time it seemed to be a more elegant solution than peeling the electrical tape off of the existing wire splices and resoldering them. Well it worked for about a year, but this AM when I went to fire up the PC in the basement, I discovered I had no power! Odd given the fact that there were no tripped breakers, and every other outlet in the basement was working. Starting with the outlet itself I traced the dead circuit all the way back to the ceiling box. Apparently one of the suitcase connections failed. I ripped them both out, peelled off the tape and soldered the leads onto the old wires. The outlet and the PC is back in operation. So it appears that you should not employ these devices on heavier guage wires.
These kind of stories scare the hell out of me !!! I do electrical work on the side and have rewired more than a few homes. The things I find are amazing - IF you're not well versed in proper 110v wiring, either learn it or get help - too many bad things can happen.
DO NOT "THINK" / "GUESS" / "ASSUME" IT SHOULD WORK - YOU NEED TO KNOW.
Mark.
¡ uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝɹnʇɐuƃıs ʎɯ 'dlǝɥ
I don't believe that either the suitcase connectors or the soldering are code approved for what you are using them for, in 120V wiring.
I admit, in retrospect the suitcase connections were a dumb idea. But as for the soldered connections, well they came courtesy of the electrician who wired the place when it was built in the 1970's. All of the connections, including the one I added, are inside a grounded, UL-approved, metal junction box. Of course I've found other things in this house where I had to ask myself; "How did that ever get past the building inspector?"
I have figured out what is wrong with my brain! On the left side nothing works right, and on the right side there is nothing left!
jacon12 wrote: I don't remember the 'correct' name for these devices, I've only seen them referred to as suitcase connectors. I'm wondering how reliable they are for connecting track feeder wires to the main buss. I looked around Lowes Home Improvement but didn't see them, perhaps don't stock them.Anyone used them and can recommend them... or not?JaRRell
I don't remember the 'correct' name for these devices, I've only seen them referred to as suitcase connectors. I'm wondering how reliable they are for connecting track feeder wires to the main buss. I looked around Lowes Home Improvement but didn't see them, perhaps don't stock them.
Anyone used them and can recommend them... or not?
JaRRell
I don't know if you're still interested, but I got this link in a email from Micro Mark:
http://www.micromark.com/newsflash/100907newproducts.html
TONY
"If we never take the time, how can we ever have the time." - Merovingian (Matrix Reloaded)
jasperofzeal wrote: jacon12 wrote: I don't remember the 'correct' name for these devices, I've only seen them referred to as suitcase connectors. I'm wondering how reliable they are for connecting track feeder wires to the main buss. I looked around Lowes Home Improvement but didn't see them, perhaps don't stock them.Anyone used them and can recommend them... or not?JaRRellI don't know if you're still interested, but I got this link in a email from Micro Mark:http://www.micromark.com/newsflash/100907newproducts.html
Someone at Micro Mark must read this forum , I got that same Flash message this morning.
Jerry SP FOREVER http://photobucket.com/albums/f317/GAPPLEG/
I got that from them and thought the same thing, "Oh Lord, they're a readin' the forums!"
Actually, probably a coincidence..
GAPPLEG wrote: jasperofzeal wrote: jacon12 wrote: I don't remember the 'correct' name for these devices, I've only seen them referred to as suitcase connectors. I'm wondering how reliable they are for connecting track feeder wires to the main buss. I looked around Lowes Home Improvement but didn't see them, perhaps don't stock them.Anyone used them and can recommend them... or not?JaRRellI don't know if you're still interested, but I got this link in a email from Micro Mark:http://www.micromark.com/newsflash/100907newproducts.htmlSomeone at Micro Mark must read this forum , I got that same Flash message this morning.
jacon12 wrote: I got that from them and thought the same thing, "Oh Lord, they're a readin' the forums!"Actually, probably a coincidence.. JaRRell GAPPLEG wrote: jasperofzeal wrote: jacon12 wrote: I don't remember the 'correct' name for these devices, I've only seen them referred to as suitcase connectors. I'm wondering how reliable they are for connecting track feeder wires to the main buss. I looked around Lowes Home Improvement but didn't see them, perhaps don't stock them.Anyone used them and can recommend them... or not?JaRRellI don't know if you're still interested, but I got this link in a email from Micro Mark:http://www.micromark.com/newsflash/100907newproducts.htmlSomeone at Micro Mark must read this forum , I got that same Flash message this morning.
Maybe if we talk about, say......despruing tweezers, MM will knock off 5 dollars or so on their asking price for them.
I've been using a variety of crimp-on and snap-on connectors for the last 11 years and find them faster and more reliable than solder. I've experienced very few failures, mostly where I did not crush a crimp-on connector well because of working in an awkward position.
Our previous layout, built with my father in his basement, lasted from 1953 to 1995. This is enough time to show the shortcomings of soldered joints . Vibration from switch machines causes old solder to crack. Joints soldered with "non corrosive" flux do corrode after decades in a damp basement. Whatever tape covered the solder to insulate it from accidental contact with another joint dries and falls off.
They want 31 cents each - You can get them for 19-21 cents each from most electronic firms(line Mouser, Digikey, etc...)
Jim Bernier
Modeling BNSF and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin