Suitcase connectors for wiring?

[jrbernier]

I don't remember the 'correct' name for these devices, I've only seen them referred to as suitcase connectors.  I'm wondering how reliable they are for connecting track feeder wires to the main buss.  I looked around Lowes Home Improvement but didn't see them, perhaps don't stock them.

Anyone used them and can recommend them... or not?

JaRRell

I don't know if you're still interested, but I got this link in a email from Micro Mark:

http://www.micromark.com/newsflash/100907newproducts.html

Someone at Micro Mark must read this forum , I got that same Flash message this morning.

 

  They want 31 cents each - You can get them for 19-21 cents each  from most electronic firms(line Mouser, Digikey, etc...)

Jim Bernier

[Beowulf]

I've been using a variety of crimp-on and snap-on connectors for the last 11 years and find them faster and more reliable than solder.  I've experienced very few failures, mostly where I did not crush a crimp-on connector well because of working in an awkward position.

Our previous layout, built with my father in his basement, lasted from 1953 to 1995.  This is enough time to show the shortcomings of soldered joints .  Vibration from switch machines causes old solder to crack.  Joints soldered with "non corrosive" flux do corrode after decades in a damp basement.  Whatever tape covered the solder to insulate it from accidental contact with another joint dries and falls off.

[StillGrande]

I have to say that if it wasn't for these connectors I would have just given up any idea of building a big layout.  I am amazed at how much wiring I can get done with them in a short amount of time.  There is some skill to get them installed right every time, but I learned that a lot faster than I learned how to get a good solder joint, and I don't have to mess around with trying to get the insulation off the wires to get it ready to solder.  The only problem I have now is that the local Lowes does not have them and the Home Depots (we have 3 nearby, 6 in a short driving distance) will only get a couple of packs at a time. 

[jasperofzeal]

I got that from them and thought the same thing, "Oh Lord, they're a readin' the forums!"

Actually, probably a coincidence.. 

JaRRell

 

 

I don't remember the 'correct' name for these devices, I've only seen them referred to as suitcase connectors.  I'm wondering how reliable they are for connecting track feeder wires to the main buss.  I looked around Lowes Home Improvement but didn't see them, perhaps don't stock them.

Anyone used them and can recommend them... or not?

JaRRell

I don't know if you're still interested, but I got this link in a email from Micro Mark:

http://www.micromark.com/newsflash/100907newproducts.html

Someone at Micro Mark must read this forum , I got that same Flash message this morning.

Maybe if we talk about, say......despruing tweezers, MM will knock off 5 dollars or so on their asking price for them. 

[jacon12]

I got that from them and thought the same thing, "Oh Lord, they're a readin' the forums!"

Actually, probably a coincidence.. 

JaRRell

 

 

I don't remember the 'correct' name for these devices, I've only seen them referred to as suitcase connectors.  I'm wondering how reliable they are for connecting track feeder wires to the main buss.  I looked around Lowes Home Improvement but didn't see them, perhaps don't stock them.

Anyone used them and can recommend them... or not?

JaRRell

I don't know if you're still interested, but I got this link in a email from Micro Mark:

http://www.micromark.com/newsflash/100907newproducts.html

Someone at Micro Mark must read this forum , I got that same Flash message this morning.

[GAPPLEG]

I don't remember the 'correct' name for these devices, I've only seen them referred to as suitcase connectors.  I'm wondering how reliable they are for connecting track feeder wires to the main buss.  I looked around Lowes Home Improvement but didn't see them, perhaps don't stock them.

Anyone used them and can recommend them... or not?

JaRRell

I don't know if you're still interested, but I got this link in a email from Micro Mark:

http://www.micromark.com/newsflash/100907newproducts.html

Someone at Micro Mark must read this forum , I got that same Flash message this morning.

[jasperofzeal]

I don't remember the 'correct' name for these devices, I've only seen them referred to as suitcase connectors.  I'm wondering how reliable they are for connecting track feeder wires to the main buss.  I looked around Lowes Home Improvement but didn't see them, perhaps don't stock them.

Anyone used them and can recommend them... or not?

JaRRell

I don't know if you're still interested, but I got this link in a email from Micro Mark:

http://www.micromark.com/newsflash/100907newproducts.html

[stebbycentral]

I don't believe that either the suitcase connectors or the soldering are code approved for what you are using them for, in 120V wiring.

I admit, in retrospect the suitcase connections were a dumb idea.  But as for the soldered connections, well they came courtesy of the electrician who wired the place when it was built in the 1970's.  All of the connections, including the one I added, are inside a grounded, UL-approved, metal junction box.   Of course I've found other things in this house where I had to ask myself; "How did that ever get past the building inspector?"

[Mark R.]

If I had answered this thread yesterday I would have given them my unqualifed approval.  Tonight I'm not so sure, since I spent most of this morning rewiring a failed suitcase connection. Last year when I relocated a wall in the basement I also installed a new 120v outlet.  Having used suitcase connectors with success on my layout, I decided to employ them in a little house wiring.   After running a length of Romex up to the ceiling box where all of the existing outlets merge, I used the connectors to tie the new lines into an existing pair of lines.  At the time it seemed to be a more elegant solution than peeling the electrical tape off of the existing wire splices and resoldering them.  Well it worked for about a year, but this AM when I went to fire up the PC in the basement, I discovered I had no power!  Odd given the fact that there were no tripped breakers, and every other outlet in the basement was working.  Starting with the outlet itself I traced the dead circuit all the way back to the ceiling box.  Apparently one of the suitcase connections failed.  I ripped them both out, peelled off the tape and soldered the leads onto the old wires. The outlet and the PC is back in operation.   So it appears that you should not employ these devices on heavier guage wires.

These kind of stories scare the hell out of me !!!   I do electrical work on the side and have rewired more than a few homes. The things I find are amazing - IF you're not well versed in proper 110v wiring, either learn it or get help - too many bad things can happen.

DO NOT "THINK" /  "GUESS" / "ASSUME" IT SHOULD WORK - YOU NEED TO KNOW.

Mark.

[jeffrey-wimberly]

You're right. I've seen quite a few house fires started by wiring that was supposedly up to code.

[Vail and Southwestern RR]

At least soldering the connections will hold a lot longer than those connectors. Wire nuts would be best.

Yes, that could be true.  But neither is appropriate for the task.  As much as a lot of the code seems silly, I rather suspect that there is a history of fires behind every rule.

 

[UP2CSX]

Joe, I don't think there's much difference in cost between the good quality 3M suitcase connectors and Posi-Taps. Another offset to the cost is that you can connect up to three 18 gauge and four 22 gauge to one bus using one Posi-Tap. It's also nice, when you don't get the connection right, not to have to waste a connector. They are usually used with stranded wire but I've used them with solid bus wire without a problem. I think the only issue would be solid wire that's too big to be twisted together and fit in the small half of the Posi-Tap.

If you're a confirmed suitcase user, far be it from me to disuade you. I'd ask you just to try a box of 10 Posi-Taps, especially for lighting wiring, and see if you can't get things done a lot faster and have work that is at least as reliable as the suitcase.

[GTX765]

Ok thanks for the help I am going to start my wiring, it will be a good fun. I am going to not use the suitcase connectors even though I have some. I have used them to power guages on some drag cars I built with my Dad. They can have issues but usually they have not given me any trouble.

[Vail and Southwestern RR]

Ok thanks, sorry for my ignorance. I am not good with electrical.

There are types of buses where that isn't the answer, no need to apologize for asking!

 

[jeffrey-wimberly]

At least soldering the connections will hold a lot longer than those connectors. Wire nuts would be best.

[GTX765]

Ok thanks, sorry for my ignorance. I am not good with electrical.

[Vail and Southwestern RR]

On the subject of wiring I have a stupid question, I am setting up my wiring this weekend. I am just using the two wires from the zepher right now but going to do wiring since I am runing more trains.

 My questions is when you run the two bus wires, the black and the red what do you do with the ends? I know one end goes into the terminal but the other end? Do you loop it or cap it off or what? This is my first layout and I am no pro. Can some one post a picture of your wiring? I have a 5x9 with two main line ovals with multiple switches. Thanks

For that size of layout, there's no problem just taping off the ends and tying them up out of the way.

 

[GTX765]

On the subject of wiring I have a stupid question, I am setting up my wiring this weekend. I am just using the two wires from the zepher right now but going to do wiring since I am runing more trains.

 My questions is when you run the two bus wires, the black and the red what do you do with the ends? I know one end goes into the terminal but the other end? Do you loop it or cap it off or what? This is my first layout and I am no pro. Can some one post a picture of your wiring? I have a 5x9 with two main line ovals with multiple switches. Thanks

[Vail and Southwestern RR]

If I had answered this thread yesterday I would have given them my unqualifed approval.  Tonight I'm not so sure, since I spent most of this morning rewiring a failed suitcase connection. Last year when I relocated a wall in the basement I also installed a new 120v outlet.  Having used suitcase connectors with success on my layout, I decided to employ them in a little house wiring.   After running a length of Romex up to the ceiling box where all of the existing outlets merge, I used the connectors to tie the new lines into an existing pair of lines.  At the time it seemed to be a more elegant solution than peeling the electrical tape off of the existing wire splices and resoldering them.  Well it worked for about a year, but this AM when I went to fire up the PC in the basement, I discovered I had no power!  Odd given the fact that there were no tripped breakers, and every other outlet in the basement was working.  Starting with the outlet itself I traced the dead circuit all the way back to the ceiling box.  Apparently one of the suitcase connections failed.  I ripped them both out, peelled off the tape and soldered the leads onto the old wires. The outlet and the PC is back in operation.   So it appears that you should not employ these devices on heavier guage wires.

I don't believe that either the suitcase connectors or the soldering are code approved for what you are using them for, in 120V wiring.

 

[stebbycentral]

If I had answered this thread yesterday I would have given them my unqualifed approval.  Tonight I'm not so sure, since I spent most of this morning rewiring a failed suitcase connection. Last year when I relocated a wall in the basement I also installed a new 120v outlet.  Having used suitcase connectors with success on my layout, I decided to employ them in a little house wiring.   After running a length of Romex up to the ceiling box where all of the existing outlets merge, I used the connectors to tie the new lines into an existing pair of lines.  At the time it seemed to be a more elegant solution than peeling the electrical tape off of the existing wire splices and resoldering them.  Well it worked for about a year, but this AM when I went to fire up the PC in the basement, I discovered I had no power!  Odd given the fact that there were no tripped breakers, and every other outlet in the basement was working.  Starting with the outlet itself I traced the dead circuit all the way back to the ceiling box.  Apparently one of the suitcase connections failed.  I ripped them both out, peelled off the tape and soldered the leads onto the old wires. The outlet and the PC is back in operation.   So it appears that you should not employ these devices on heavier guage wires.

[jeffrey-wimberly]

Joe, you said the prime thing in one sentence, that you use 3M suitcase connectors. Many of the suitcase connectors sold in auto supply stores are cheap knock-offs of the 3M product and don't work even half as well. I found this out through personal experience with the cheaper products. The 3M connectors work well, the knock-offs don't.

[jfugate]

Posiplug connectors are 50 cents to a dollar each, while 3M suitcase connectors at an auto supply store will cost you 15-20 cents each. Big price difference between the two technologies. For model railroading, I can't see the reliability of posiplug would be 5 times better, so the "return on investment" isn't there.

I've used 3M suitcase connectors on my HO Siskiyou Line for over 10 years now, with not one failure ever. And we run op sessions each month, so the layout is used to run trains regularly.

As to whether or not you would trust building an airplane with these, I also expect wire nuts used in house wiring are NOT used in airplanes either, but that doesn't stop house electricians and it's allowed by code.

[jacon12]

Jim, I sent the Posi-Tap folks an email asking about their product and this is the reply.

"They are great for Model RR, but, only with stranded.  It would be worth it to change to stranded wire for the time you will save."

JaRRell 

 

 

Before you decide to use suitcase connectors, please at least try Posi-Tap connectors. Thet are easier to use, especially in tight spaces, because they require no crimping. You can tie in up to four 22 gauge wires to one bus wire with one Posi-Tap. They are fast, reliable, and the results are stonger than soldering. I've used them to wire 59 streelights and building interior lights in about half the time of any other method I've ever used. I have no connection with them, just a satisfied customer. You can find out more about them at http://www.posi-lock.com/posiplug.html. 

[woodlandtoots]

I've tried the suitcase connectors and didn't like them. I also don't like soldering under the bench. I came upon a comprimise that works well for me. Instead of securing may power buss wires directly to the bottom of the layout, I have them hung by wire loops 3 to 5 inches below the bottom of the layout. With the wire in this configuration I can get to it easily and soldering is not a problem.

Amen to that. I run all my cables that way. I drill a hole from the top down, and do all my connections to the track first, then feed the cable through the hole, cross it underneath the layout by way of the loops (and cable ties), and then finish the connections sitting in a chair. No way am I going to do soldering upside down under the layout. (I did plenty of that when I was still doing electrical assembly work for a living and physically I want no more of that)

Woodlandtoots 

 

[Pathfinder]

Strange, not a single mention of the October 2007 MR article that actually discusses this very issue.

Look at Page 78, the DCC Corner column that covers Good Wiring Practices to get a true perspective on your options.  It is a good article by Mike Polsgrove and worth a read.

Oh, and on Page 51 there is an under-layout picture that shows lots of suitcase connectors on Steven Barkley's layout. 

[UP2CSX]

Some people seem to do fine with suitcase connectors and others don't. I'm part of the don't crowd. [):] If you are going to use them, spend the money to get real ScotchLoc connectors. Don't get the no-name brands at auto stores. They will fail frequently on installation, usually right after you've got all the wiring secured in place and then you have to track down the failed connection. Once you find it, you have to cut it off, waste a connector and start again. That's why I went to Posi-Tap. No stripping, crimping, and it's east to visually verify you have a connection. If you are running a power bus, you also never have to cut the main bus wires, which is the thing I don't like about using wire nuts. Just screw it on the bus, strip the end of the feeder, slide it through the second half of the connector, screw them together, and your done. Even if you do something wrong, you just unscrew the connector and try again - you never waste a connector or have to recut wire. I really hate wiring but Posi-Tap's have made me only annoyed by wiring.  

[Train Master]

Want some free advice? DO NOT USE THEM.

[Anonymous]

See also this forum thread:

http://www.trains.com/trccs/forums/1217657/ShowPost.aspx

Good Luck,
-John

[jeffrey-wimberly]

I'm against there use in automotive use too.

Hear, hear! I used them once in a fuel pump installation. I'll never do that again!