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Digitrax Control System/Booster/PSX Power Managers/Wiring/Tortoise Switchs

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  • Member since
    February 2020
  • 82 posts
Posted by Coastie71 on Friday, April 3, 2020 11:06 AM

Randy, thanks for the clarification.  Your and Renegade's clarifications makes it more understandable.

Thanks again, Gary

  • Member since
    February 2020
  • 82 posts
Posted by Coastie71 on Friday, April 3, 2020 11:45 AM

Renegade, thank you for the additional clarification.  Your explanation about connecting the short leg of one LED to the long leg of the other LED and the opposite for the other leg clarifies how these should be wired.  I believe your also saying that no wire goes between the two legs of the same LED.  I assume I have to have a continuous wire running from the Tortoise to the first LED short or long leg and solder that, then another wire from that LED leg to the other LED opposite long or short leg, solder that and then a wire from the LED's other leg to the opposite leg on the other LED and from there to the DS64.  Or, do I make one continuous wire from the Tortoise to the DS64 (I think that would be similar to the way I have to wire the toggle or push buttons for the +COM connection) and solder separate wires from that wire to each leg of the LEDs?  I understand there is also one continuous wire directly from the Tortoise's other connector to the DS64.

Thanks for all the tips on the soldering.  That's one area where I've been reading up alot about, so I understood the type of solder, flux and even some of the recommended type soldering irons.  I actually ordered 0.023 dia. solder based upon someone's book or website recommendation.  It hasn't shipped yet so I might be able to cancel and reorder the diameter you use, but I think it was also recommended for the difficulty of wiring to the Atlas turnout frogs.  I was hoping that the soldering to newly purchased track would not require wire brushing, but if that is recommended or using the rubbing alcohol (the latter had not been mentioned by anyone else that I've read up on so that might be the easier or better method for me). 

Yeah, I definitely need to practice my soldering before I mess up things.  One question I do have that I really haven't seen a recommendation for or warning not to do, but if I solder my feeders to the rail joiners (since they should be soldered anyway, is that connection OK or does it really need to touch the actual rail?

Again, I really appreciate your help and that diagram again was most helpful (pictures help me understand alot better than just words, but not sure if you had mean't to attach another diagram to your last response).

Thanks, Gary

  • Member since
    February 2002
  • From: Reading, PA
  • 30,002 posts
Posted by rrinker on Friday, April 3, 2020 3:58 PM

 You would solder the long lead of one LED to the short lead of the other. Then solder the other 2 free leads together. Fit the LEDs in yous control panel - depending on what you are using for the penael, there are some simple plastic bezels that push in to a thing panel to hold the LED, or there are fancy metal ones, and everythign in between. This is purely mechanical, to mount the LEDs.

 Then you run one wire from the DS64 output to one of the joined sets of LED legs. Then run a wire from the other set of joined LED leads to either pin 1 or pin 8 of the Tortoise. Finally, one more wire from the other output terminal of the DS64 to the unused terminal of the Tortoise, either 1 or 8. If the positon of the turnout and which LED lights up are wrong, swap the wires on pins 1 and 8 of the Tortoise.

                                    --Randy

 


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

  • Member since
    February 2020
  • 82 posts
Posted by Coastie71 on Wednesday, April 8, 2020 10:26 AM

Randy, thanks again for clarifying.

Enjoy your day and stay healthy!

Gary

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