JimT But the NCE instructions definitely make it sound like they recommend adding your own resistors in addition to the ones they provide, so the instructions are very confusing if that's not the case.
But the NCE instructions definitely make it sound like they recommend adding your own resistors in addition to the ones they provide, so the instructions are very confusing if that's not the case.
Built in resistors for LED lighting: We provide built-in resistors if you wish to use LEDs for lighting. These resistors are disabled at the factory with a “U” shaped shorting link built in to the circuit board. To use these resistors you must cut the link associated with each LED. The link for output 2 is marked on the diagram above. The link is a thin circuit board trace on the decoder that can be cut with a hobby knife. Make sure the link is completely cut or you will blow up your LED and possibly the function output of the decoder.
Rich
Alton Junction
richhotrain JimT But the NCE instructions definitely make it sound like they recommend adding your own resistors in addition to the ones they provide, so the instructions are very confusing if that's not the case. NCE instructions always fall far short of comprehensive, but the instructions for using resistors seem fairly clear. Here is the operative paragraph for the DA-SR decoder. Built in resistors for LED lighting: We provide built-in resistors if you wish to use LEDs for lighting. These resistors are disabled at the factory with a “U” shaped shorting link built in to the circuit board. To use these resistors you must cut the link associated with each LED. The link for output 2 is marked on the diagram above. The link is a thin circuit board trace on the decoder that can be cut with a hobby knife. Make sure the link is completely cut or you will blow up your LED and possibly the function output of the decoder. Rich
NCE instructions always fall far short of comprehensive, but the instructions for using resistors seem fairly clear. Here is the operative paragraph for the DA-SR decoder.
Agreed. I think this is what threw me off. But I figured better safe than sorry.
davidmbedardDH123 has been replaced with the DH125 as Digitraxs bread and butter decoder.
I just went to the Digitrax website. I went through all 7 pages of mobile decoders and the DH125 didn't appear. Is this a product that has been announced but is not yet available?
Yeah, they probably should have reversed those two paragraphs.
jecorbett davidmbedard DH123 has been replaced with the DH125 as Digitraxs bread and butter decoder. I just went to the Digitrax website. I went through all 7 pages of mobile decoders and the DH125 didn't appear. Is this a product that has been announced but is not yet available?
davidmbedard DH123 has been replaced with the DH125 as Digitraxs bread and butter decoder.
123, 125, 126 - still no BEMF on any of those.
DH166 - yes, that has BEMF.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
JimT richhotrain Here is a link to the NCE DA-SR at Tony's Train Exchange. http://tonystrains.com/product/nce-da-sr-decoder/ Perfect fit for the Atlas RS-1. Rich This thread reminded me that I had an NCE DA-SR on hand, so I pulled it out and installed it on an early RS-3. Photo below, really easy (you'll see I didn't even cut the clips off the power feeds). I did have to flip the motor feeds when I remembered the LVRR ran these long hood forward. The NCE instructions talk both about having on-board resistors but also about adding 1k resistors to the LEDs. The instructions say that you need to cut the trace to take advantage of the on-board resistors. Here's a question: do you have to cut the trace if if you simply install 1k resistors on the LEDs themselves? or do you need to do both? in which case I'm having a hard time from the NCE instruction diagram figuring out where to cut. If anyone wants to see them the NCE instructions for the DA-SR are at https://ncedcc.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/article_attachments/200303669/DASRv35-d-_solder_pads.pdf . Followup question: on the TCS website's installation photos for the TCS A4x, the guy doing the install simply taped two incandescents to the top of his circuit board and separated them with an electrical tape shield--a pretty elegant and simple alternative to pulling out the light bars, cutting them, polishing them, possibly adding 2pin connectors to separate the shell from the chassis, and then after all that getting everything to fit. His photos are at http://www.tcsdcc.com/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/HO_Scale/Atlas/RS3/atlas_rs3.htm . I don't have any incandescents that are that small on hand, but I might try to do the same thing with 3mm LEDs that I do have. Hence the question about the resistors and cutting the NCE trace. If I leave the DA-SR trace alone and wire 1k resistors to each LED, will it work? thanks as always for the help.
richhotrain Here is a link to the NCE DA-SR at Tony's Train Exchange. http://tonystrains.com/product/nce-da-sr-decoder/ Perfect fit for the Atlas RS-1. Rich
Here is a link to the NCE DA-SR at Tony's Train Exchange.
http://tonystrains.com/product/nce-da-sr-decoder/
Perfect fit for the Atlas RS-1.
This thread reminded me that I had an NCE DA-SR on hand, so I pulled it out and installed it on an early RS-3. Photo below, really easy (you'll see I didn't even cut the clips off the power feeds). I did have to flip the motor feeds when I remembered the LVRR ran these long hood forward.
The NCE instructions talk both about having on-board resistors but also about adding 1k resistors to the LEDs. The instructions say that you need to cut the trace to take advantage of the on-board resistors. Here's a question: do you have to cut the trace if if you simply install 1k resistors on the LEDs themselves? or do you need to do both? in which case I'm having a hard time from the NCE instruction diagram figuring out where to cut.
If anyone wants to see them the NCE instructions for the DA-SR are at https://ncedcc.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/article_attachments/200303669/DASRv35-d-_solder_pads.pdf .
Followup question: on the TCS website's installation photos for the TCS A4x, the guy doing the install simply taped two incandescents to the top of his circuit board and separated them with an electrical tape shield--a pretty elegant and simple alternative to pulling out the light bars, cutting them, polishing them, possibly adding 2pin connectors to separate the shell from the chassis, and then after all that getting everything to fit. His photos are at http://www.tcsdcc.com/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/HO_Scale/Atlas/RS3/atlas_rs3.htm .
I don't have any incandescents that are that small on hand, but I might try to do the same thing with 3mm LEDs that I do have. Hence the question about the resistors and cutting the NCE trace. If I leave the DA-SR trace alone and wire 1k resistors to each LED, will it work?
thanks as always for the help.
Yesterday I received my TCS AX4 decoder and installing it in my RS-1 turned out to be very straight forward as far as the motor function. The decoder clipped neatly into place on the tabs previously used for the plastic board.
In the DC configuration, there was a single incandescent light poking through the middle of that plastic board which no must be reposition. The instruction diagram shows wiring to two seperate bulbs. I returned to this thread and went to the link provided in the above post. If I am understanding this, I now need two incandescents, one for each direction wired to opposite ends of the decoder. I'd appreciate if someone could confirm whether that is right or wrong before I make the soldering connections.
Thanks to all who contributed to this thread. The engine runs beautifully even at very low speeds. It will be a nice addition to my transition era roster.
As a side note, after acquiring this old DC loco on ebay and installing the decoder, I see now Atlas is offering a new DCC version of the RS-1 with sound. Of course I will have to get one.
If you want directional lights, you need a second light bulb, oor better yet, two LEDs. The A4X already has resistors for the LEDs. The simple way is to keep both in the middle, with something between the two so when the front oen is on it doesn't shine through the rear one and vice-versa. I cut the light bars back and attach the LEDs directly to the ends of the light bars. Either way works.