My old Bachmann power pack looks like this one.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/201157695156?lpid=82
Is yours similar to it?
What is the model number on your power pack?
Rich
Alton Junction
woodman I did not realize how complicated just hooking up some street lights to my layout was going to be, I am now thinking of returning all the lights and just forgetting the idea of having lights. I appreciate all the replies to my posts, but with each reply it has become more and more confusing for me. I just think I am way over my head in trying to accomplish this task. Once again thank you all for your advice, you kept me from making an expensive mistake.
I did not realize how complicated just hooking up some street lights to my layout was going to be, I am now thinking of returning all the lights and just forgetting the idea of having lights. I appreciate all the replies to my posts, but with each reply it has become more and more confusing for me. I just think I am way over my head in trying to accomplish this task. Once again thank you all for your advice, you kept me from making an expensive mistake.
It's not complicated, it's just that you have two different types of lights with two different voltage requirements. The EASIEST thing to do is to obtain 2 power supplies, each one meeting the specifications of the lights you intend to hook up, and keep it all compeltely seperate. That may not be the CHEAPEST option, or the best use (reuse) or existing resources, but it's simple and you know each set of lights will be getting the proper voltages.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
We allready have the necessary information to make a determination, the model of the pack is not important. As long as it is a variable DC is all that matters.
First, what are the requirements?
woodmanThe package for the Atlas lights states: they operate on 16V DC or AC, LED is the light source ,they are 3 Volt LED with resister and diode for connection to 16 Volt AC/DC
So we know the Atlas lights will operate on 16v MAX. However, as they are LED with resistors, we know they will shine just as bright on 12V DC
woodmanThe Walters light package states that they can be connected to a AC or DC power souce with a maximum output of 12 Volts.
The Walters lights require 12V MAX. So we know they will also work well on 12 DC.
So a DC source of 12 V will operate both lamps.
Any DC power pack with a variable DC output can supply this voltage. The throttle is adjusted to the desired voltage value, which has been determined. Or as the OP said:
woodman I was told by a neighbor that all I have to do is throttle the power pack down
Jim
Soo Line fan We allready have the necessary information to make a determination, the model of the pack is not important. As long as it is a variable DC is all that matters. So a DC source of 12 V will operate both lamps. Any DC power pack with a variable DC output can supply this voltage.
Any DC power pack with a variable DC output can supply this voltage.
rrinker It's not complicated,
It's not complicated,
(Just pulling your chain, Randy).
the voltage rating on fixed supply like a wall wart is at the max current rating.
the voltage could be higher at lower current
greg - Philadelphia & Reading / Reading
Rich,
Your right, he does need to mark / tape / lock the throttle at or below the desired voltage lid. Also, be aware that most DC packs will not put out 17 volts to the rail, unless it is a open circuit. As you know, non-dcc equipped engines typically had 14 volt incandescent lamps, until LEDs came into vogue. So if a pack did put out 17 volts at WOT, the higher voltage would smoke the bulbs.
What I see on my MRC T2s is 13-14 volts @ WOT, on the rail loaded with a single locomotive. Even so, unless the OP throttled down his pack, this would be too much.
Here is the info on two of the power packs that I have, the first is;
Bachmann Hobby Transformer Model # 6607 Made in China
Input 120 V 50/60 Mz
Output 17 VDC 20 VAC
Max. Output 7 VA Total
The other power pack is:
MEHANO Model # 352 Made in Slovenia ( Imported by IHC, Formerly AHM )
Input 120 V AC50/60 Hz
Output Open Circuit
DC 0-17 V AC 16 V
Power Total 5.5 VA
Can I use either one of these to power the lights or should I buy another power source.
Rich,Yes, that is exactly the one I have.
woodman, you can use the Bachmann power pack "as is" to power the Atlas lamps. Just turn the rotary dial to the maximum speed setting and connect the lights (or bus) to the two DC terminals. The in-line resistors will protect the LEDs from excess voltage.
Then, use the MEHANO power pack to power the Walthers lights. Connect the Walthers lights to the two DC terminals. But, don't turn the rotary speed dial all the way up because that will send 17 volts through the 12 volt bulbs. Just turn the speed dial up by 1/4 or 1/2 of the maxium speed. Or, better yet, use a voltmeter to find the 12 volt output setting on the speed dial.
Don't wire the Walthers bulbs to the AC terminals because you won't be able to reduce that 16 volt output. You could use resistors or diodes to reduce the AC voltage, but it is just easier to use the DC terminals without having to add resistors or diodes.
Congratulations, guys. You have managed to scare off an inexperienced modeler who just wanted advise on a simple task.
Dave
Lackawanna Route of the Phoebe Snow
Dave, read the most recent replies.
woodman is set to go because he, and we, persisted.
BTW, did you have any advice to offer?
Hi,
Seems to me, in his first post, Richhotrain took care of the OP's problem. Much that followed just complicated a rather simple project.
Seems like we do that a lot here.................
ENJOY !
Mobilman44
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
Phoebe Vet woodman I did not realize how complicated just hooking up some street lights to my layout was going to be, I am now thinking of returning all the lights and just forgetting the idea of having lights. I appreciate all the replies to my posts, but with each reply it has become more and more confusing for me. I just think I am way over my head in trying to accomplish this task. Once again thank you all for your advice, you kept me from making an expensive mistake. Congratulations, guys. You have managed to scare off an inexperienced modeler who just wanted advise on a simple task.
This is fairly typical of this forum - the NUBE wants simple answer to his question and he gets a dozen relies (usually having little to nothing to do with his question) and leaves in discust!
But that seems typical as everyone tries to out do the other in answering a simple question!
I usually reply directly to the person asking the question and they are so thankful that someone comes up with a simple and inexpensive solution to a simple question!
Why do we have to reinvent the wheel time and time again.
I have made suggestions on the least expensive and quickest way of doing things YET other responders - try to find the most expensive and hardest way of doing things - then turn right around and complain Model Railroading is too expensive!
When building a 2500 sq ft Layout on retirement money - one has to find the least costly method of doing thins that works and lasts forever.
I learned this being a member of a Club for over 25 years - a club never has any money and NOT doing things right - costs the Club twice as much as they have to now do it over again!
SO we learned that doing it right the first time and making things bulletproof means no redos and the Club can move onto other more fun things to do!
This wiring thing is a fine example - we learned the hard way - the IDCs fail badly - we now solder things and NEVER have problems.
But as we all know - everyone knowes better! We believed that PROs and used the IDCs - We sure found out about what the PROs really know what works!
BOB H - CLarion, PA
Bob, you and Phoebe Vet and others are, of course, entitled to your own opinions. And, I am not sure who you are directing your comments to.
But I have to say that I resent any insinuations that I or anyone else on this thread was trying to do anything but help the OP.
As mobilman44 pointed out, I was the first to reply to the OP, and I believe that I gave a straightforward answer to him.
But, I also asked whether he was operating in DC or DCC, since that would open other other options for wiring the street lamps if he was so inclined. Unfortunately, someone else took exception to my inquiry and the discussion got somewhat diverted, at least temporarily.
Once we got back on point, we got some needed information from the OP about his power supplies, and we were able to give him more complete advice.
And, let me add, that in my opinion the OP's question was not entirely simple and, therefore, there was not a simple answer.
I happen to actually get paid for solving very difficult electrical issues for dealerships across the world. If any of you believe I confused this concern, please let me know so I do not repeat the mistake.
richhotrain Bob, you and Phoebe Vet and others are, of course, entitled to your own opinions. And, I am not sure who you are directing your comments to. But I have to say that I resent any insinuations that I or anyone else on this thread was trying to do anything but help the OP. As mobilman44 pointed out, I was the first to reply to the OP, and I believe that I gave a straightforward answer to him. But, I also asked whether he was operating in DC or DCC, since that would open other other options for wiring the street lamps if he was so inclined. Unfortunately, someone else took exception to my inquiry and the discussion got somewhat diverted, at least temporarily. Once we got back on point, we got some needed information from the OP about his power supplies, and we were able to give him more complete advice. And, let me add, that in my opinion the OP's question was not entirely simple and, therefore, there was not a simple answer. Rich
It was the shear volume of answers that overwhelms the NUBE and everyone is different or too much a like.
Is he supposed to try everyone to see which one he likes (which would make a simple job overwhelming - as I stated).
Unfortunately this is the way a forum works - EVERYONE is entitled to an OPINION as can bee seen by this thread!
What should happen is the Posters ACTUALLY READ ALL of the replies before writing their own reply as they may be reapeating the answer only in a different way. IF the OP doesn't understand - then he should ask for a clairfication of the answer.
If the answwes are not right or clear - then respond - otherwise jumping in and repeating the same answer is wasting bandwith.
SO Rich - I was not insunating anything just stating why do we need to repeat the same answer over and over.
Just so some can increase their Post Counts - I guess - me included! ;-)
BOB H - Clarion, PA
Rich, I just purchased another Bachmann power ( same Model ) pack off of ebay, I am thinking of using the two Bachmann power packs for both the Atlas and Walthers lights. I'll just have to reduce the power from the power pack for the Walthers lights. Do they make a power source these days that the lights can be hooked to and you just plug it in and not have to worry about too much power burning out the lights. Thanks for all your help and time in this matter.
woodmanDo they make a power source these days that the lights can be hooked to and you just plug it in and not have to worry about too much power burning out the lights. Thanks for all your help and time in this matter.
Not entirely, no.
HOWEVER, if you're not afraid of learning a little (and, being a MRR-er, I'd assume you fall into this category), then it's a real quick pickup.
The important things you have to know are:
*Though, unless you're running Lionel or American Flyer stuff, we can stay away from AC.
Answers:
-Dan
Builder of Bowser steam! Railimages Site
woodman Rich, I just purchased another Bachmann power ( same Model ) pack off of ebay, I am thinking of using the two Bachmann power packs for both the Atlas and Walthers lights. I'll just have to reduce the power from the power pack for the Walthers lights. Do they make a power source these days that the lights can be hooked to and you just plug it in and not have to worry about too much power burning out the lights. Thanks for all your help and time in this matter.
When you wire the Walthers lights into the second Bachmann power pack, just connect them to the two DC teminals, and turn down that rotary speed dial to reduce the voltage. You can use a voltmeter to find the point where the output is 12 volts.
If you wish to have a power source of exactly 12 volts (VDC), you can buy a regulated DC power supply like the one at Miniatronics.
http://www.miniatronics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=M&Product_Code=WT12&Category_Code=8&Product_Count=2
A 12 VDC regulated power supply like this simply plugs into the wall and is often referred to as a wall wart.
The Bachmann power packs and the Miniatronics regulated power supply have sufficient reserved power to permit you to add additional street lights in the future, if you so choose.
So we've come full circle, back to what I suggested a while ago - just get a proper voltage wall wart and hook the lights up, no worries on accidently bumping the speed control on the power pack up past 12V and blowing the lights. The absolute simplest solution as there is nothing to do but hook up the wires, no adjusting, no meters, etc. Not the cheapest solution, but the simplest electrically speaking.
rrinker So we've come full circle, back to what I suggested a while ago - just get a proper voltage wall wart and hook the lights up, no worries on accidently bumping the speed control on the power pack up past 12V and blowing the lights. The absolute simplest solution as there is nothing to do but hook up the wires, no adjusting, no meters, etc. Not the cheapest solution, but the simplest electrically speaking. --Randy
Add my vote to that one. That's how mine are wired.
Amen!
Phoebe Vet rrinker So we've come full circle, back to what I suggested a while ago - just get a proper voltage wall wart and hook the lights up, no worries on accidently bumping the speed control on the power pack up past 12V and blowing the lights. The absolute simplest solution as there is nothing to do but hook up the wires, no adjusting, no meters, etc. Not the cheapest solution, but the simplest electrically speaking. --Randy Add my vote to that one. That's how mine are wired. Amen!
LOL
You guys crack me up falling all over yourselves to line up and say Me Too.
At least Randy did suggest two separate power supplies, unlike PV who offered nothing but criticism.
But, let's be honest, woodman could have used just the one Bachmann power supply that he already had but, understandably, he was hesitant to do so because he is unfamilar with some of the required wiring techniques. Nothing wrong with that. So, he went out bought a second identical Bachmann power pack. My, my, the crime of the century! As far as the 12 volt wall wart, let's all calm down. I merely suggested it in response to his inquiry. He hasn't bought it yet and maybe never will.
Strange how nobody suggested a car battery and a dashboard light dimmer switch yet !
It worked 60 years ago !
Mark.
¡ uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝɹnʇɐuƃıs ʎɯ 'dlǝɥ
Yes, I criticized people who try to sound smart by insisting on complex solutions to simple problems. Twelve volt wall wart, about 10 or 15 dollars is the perfect supply to the 12 volt bus he asked about. Resisters are used to drop voltage, not diodes. Using a DC power supply turned down to the needed voltage is a jerry rig solution at best. He never indicated a desire to run them off track power.
I am now leaving this thread.
Phoebe Vet .... Resisters are used to drop voltage, not diodes. ....
.... Resisters are used to drop voltage, not diodes. ....
Resistors act to reduce current flow, and, at the same time, act to lower voltage levels within circuits.
Diodes are voltage dropping components as there is a loss of 0.7 volts across the terminals of a diode. A string of ten diodes in series with the power lead to a component will drop the voltage by 7 volts.
Now, if you want to talk cheap GOOD power supplies .... ebay has tons of laptop power supplies for under $10 and many have free shipping. 12 volts and between 5 and 10 amps of clean filtered power. A lot of "wall warts" aren't regulated supplies and you may not be getting the stated voltage if the load is insufficient.
Mark R. Phoebe Vet .... Resisters are used to drop voltage, not diodes. .... Resistors act to reduce current flow, and, at the same time, act to lower voltage levels within circuits. Diodes are voltage dropping components as there is a loss of 0.7 volts across the terminals of a diode. A string of ten diodes in series with the power lead to a component will drop the voltage by 7 volts. Mark.
True, and often times diodes are a BETTER way to drop the voltage than resistors. For one, the voltage drop across a diode is fairly constant with variations in the amount current flowing through it, whereas the voltage drop across a resistor is directly porportional to the current flowing through it.