Thre's info in the attached site about Walthers 3-way turnout wiring. If installing one, there's a thread on the forum (I think) that highlights a particular problem spot that tends to short (wheel flange bridging) more than typical. Not a huge problem if you know where it is...adding some nail polish can solve it. EDIT: see the 2nd link comments by Middleman about the shorting issue and another way to solve it (I found the nail polish solved it for me thus far).
http://www.webring.org/l/rd?ring=modelrailroading;id=13;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Ewiringfordcc%2Ecom%2Fswitches_walthers%2Ehtm
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/744/t/214350.aspx?sort=ASC&pi314=2
On suitcase connectors, some folks are against them, on a conservative basis, so I'd view it as a risk issue. I decided to use them, connecting my 16AWG stranded buss to 22AWG solid wire feeders. I did find some low-priced "scotchlok" items on EBay but they were knockoffs using the name, different internal design, so I sent them back (price was too good to be true). I found what I needed (3M Scotchloks) either at All Electronics or Mouser, I think about $0.35 each. I've had no problems with mine, 3 years into it. Do get the right type parallel jaw pliers to close them. The official types are about $75 I recall, but I found a similar size and style RoboGrip at Sears for less than $25. Suggest the larger ones and be sure to get the straight jawed ones.
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
They are anything BUT cheap. Over $1 each. Can find them on Amazon, NAPA also sells them,
They have the exact same problem that the 3M suitcase conenctors have - there is no option for #12 bus to less than #18 tap.
I'll stick to inline stripping with my Ideal Stripmaster and a quick shot with my soldering gun.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
So what is the cost of these Posi-Tap connectors?
All I keep hearing is CHEAP - YET - no prices!
And prices per - Each - 100 - 1000 qty
BOB H - Clarion, PA
Use Posi-taps, no tool needed and one connector can hold up to 5 wires so no termial costs. Will not cut wires and cheap if bought in bulk 14 gauge to 24 gauge, no problem. Aircraft approved (not that that maters but it shows their reliabilty, even with the occational tug).
Tom makes a really good point about auto vs residential wiring. The 'softer' insulation is much easier to work with! I used 3M Scotchlok IDC's and have had no problems for over 10 years. Here are typical sizes:
905 - Bus wire 18-14
Tap wire 22-18
567 - Bus wire 12-10
Tap wire 18-14
The only issues I ran into was that some #22 wire is just too small to stay on the IDC. I used some #20 auto wire, it is thicker/softer and the IDC really clamps down on the wire. Using a 'tool' to clamp the IDC really helps. You can buy the 'expensive' one($60-70) or the cheap $20 one - They all work better than gas pliers or channel locks. I have over 300 of the #905's on my layout. Most of the reported problems are either incorrect installation or cheap IDC's. Remember, we are not doing aircraft wiring, or boat/trailer wiring here.
Jim
Modeling BNSF and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin
Search for 3M Scotchlok T Tap connectors. It is a two part system. You purchase the appropriate size connector for your bus wire size. You then select the appropriate size tab for your wire drops. Of course, the tab is then plugged into the bus connector. This will allow you to use 14 gauge bus with 22 gauge drop. An added advantage to this system is you can also unplug the tab from the connector for troubleshooting purposes.
I have found these connectors very reliable. I've used them on my home layout since 2000 with no issue. I have over 1,500 installed on my layout. We also used them on our club layout since 1995 again with no failures. One word of caution. You want to use a wire with a soft insulation coating for the bus wire. I used 12 gauge auto hook-up wire for my layout (ordered in 500 ft rolls in the colors I needed). Most wire from home centers has a tough outer coating because it is designed to be pulled through electrical conduit. This type of wire is not a good match for suitcase connectors because the prongs are not designed to penetrate it.
Lastly, while the #M ScotchLok connectors are reliable, they are not cheap. You can, however, obtain them at a reasonable price from most of the large online electrical component suppliers.
Good luck, Tom
You will not be able to find suitcase connectors to adapt 14 gauge to 22 gauge. Not only that, but suitcase connectors can be very unreliable if they are not properly crimpled or are not for the correct wire gauge.
looking for a wiring diagram for the walthers 3-way switches or hand made ones. also trying to figure out terminology for suitcase connectors. if designated 18/22 AWG I assume this means the connector is good to connect 18G and 22G wire. . If correct then I can't find 14/22 AWG connectors since my bus is 14 G and Feeders are 22G. Help