TrainsRMe1 Here's the latest, I figured out that my fan tracks feeders are wired the same as the main track, they should be wired opposite of the main, I'll try that and let you guys know later!!!
Here's the latest, I figured out that my fan tracks feeders are wired the same as the main track, they should be wired opposite of the main, I'll try that and let you guys know later!!!
Just try 1 fan track as a test!
Dante
Yes Rich, that would be cool.
TrainsRMe1 Yes Rich, that would be cool.
Rich
Alton Junction
Here is a photo of the OP's setup.
Thanks for posting the pic, like I said, I'm thinking about switching the feeder wires on the fan tracks, hope that works,
Picture isn't helping since there's no way to tell where the "no track" areas are.
It looks like the NO TRACK area is perpendicular to the approach track from markings on the layout surface. If that is the case, then the optical sensor is below the approach track.
If the TT is installed as believed it is (sensor below approach track),then the TT should operate fine.Then what I'd do is checking polarity of all tracks WITHOUT the rotating bridge in place.
1)Right rail of approaching track should match Right rail of ALL fan tracks (obviously same for Left side).If any number of the fan tracks don't match,then the problem is elsewhere on the layout.Possibly a wiring error while wiring them OR may be that one or more are connected to a reverse loop on the layout.Sometimes,loops aren't obvious so slow careful examination will tell if it's the case.No need to go further until both approach and fan track polarities are matching.
2)Then install the rotating bridge.According to Walthers programming instructions,have the rotating bridge return to the ZERO point.Then,even if not aligned with them,the polarity of the bridge should match both the APPROACH and FAN track polarities.If it doesn't,switch the DCC power wires to the TT's control module.
3)Then,when polarities check OK at the ZERO point,rotate the bridge manually by holding the button (don't care for programming at this point) a half turn (180 degrees).If the TT works right,then again all polarities should match.If they do,then the TT is properly installed and you can start programming.
BTW,I use a simple automotive 12V test lamp to check DCC polarity.One can get one at auto parts store for cheap or make himself one with a simple bulb and wires.
Great reply, jacktal.
Now, the OP should do just what you told him, step by step.
And then report back to us.
As soon as I get home from work, I will try that!! Thanks!
If the "no track" zones are near any of the tracks, just rotate the base so the no track zones are perpendicular. In this case, it can work. Wouldn't have worked for Rich because he had tracks all around half the turntable.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Here is the latest, I disconnected my feeders to my fan tracks , checked my other connections and I think I have a crossed feeder on my approach track, I didn't get to finish the project, but will get to it tomorrow AM!! Will keep you updated!!!
TrainsRMe1 Here is the latest, I disconnected my feeders to my fan tracks , checked my other connections and I think I have a crossed feeder on my approach track...
Here is the latest, I disconnected my feeders to my fan tracks , checked my other connections and I think I have a crossed feeder on my approach track...
Take a look at the attached track diagram. You have indicated that a series of red feeders are connected to the bottom rails and a black feeders to the top rails. Set up and wired that way, everything should work just fine, no shorts.
You are making this way too complicated and confusing. Start over and carefully wire your feeders and double check their polarity. No experimenting, no trial and error. This is as straight forward as projects can go.
]Hey All,
Here's the latest about my "TT Turnmoil" I wanted to read over some post on this thread, and "BAMM" it dawn on me Dante's post is right up my alley!! I liminated my DC power that I was using (or tyring to use) for the TT, instead I just ran four feeders like Dante did, to my power buss, I also use a Zephyr and "KAPOWWWW" it worked!!!!! I ran a loco from the approach track to the bridge without a problem!!!!!Now to program the bridge run some trains and get on with building the rest of my Rail Yard,,,!!! thank you guys for the info, and yes Rich, I did make it way to complacated,But thanks for your help, Im sure I'll come across another problem that I will need help with,
Take care and Happy Modelrailroading
Trainsrme1
Sorry, Thank you too Jactal!
You're welcome and best of luck! Enjoy watching that turntable spin and best of all, stop where it is supposed to stop!
I don't really understand what the problem was (DC shorting DCC ?... or else),but then the problem is fixed...have fun modelling.
Jacktal I don't really understand what the problem was (DC shorting DCC ?... or else),but then the problem is fixed...have fun modelling.
Well I know the next TT I install will be easier.
Well....I guess we'll never know what was indeed wrong......
It is a riddle, wrapped in a mystery, inside an enigma.
Hey Guys, the problem was wiring, for some reason using DC would not work, I tried switching the leads to no aval, once again my problem was whenever, I would run a Loco from the approach track to the bridge , the loco would bridge the gap and cause a short, so after reading the post from Dante, it just all came together.
Sorry it took me awhile to get back to you guys, but my wife and I just purchased a brand new travel trailer, and we are very excited about taking our first trip, we have a camp site near Cascade Locks in the Columbia River Gorge, by (get this) the Union Pacific Portland Sub, life can't get better than that!!
With all due respect, "it just all came together" makes no sense.
I am sure that there are a lot of us wondering what the wiring problem was and what you did to fix it.