With all due respect, "it just all came together" makes no sense.
I am sure that there are a lot of us wondering what the wiring problem was and what you did to fix it.
Rich
Alton Junction
Sorry it took me awhile to get back to you guys, but my wife and I just purchased a brand new travel trailer, and we are very excited about taking our first trip, we have a camp site near Cascade Locks in the Columbia River Gorge, by (get this) the Union Pacific Portland Sub, life can't get better than that!!
Hey Guys, the problem was wiring, for some reason using DC would not work, I tried switching the leads to no aval, once again my problem was whenever, I would run a Loco from the approach track to the bridge , the loco would bridge the gap and cause a short, so after reading the post from Dante, it just all came together.
It is a riddle, wrapped in a mystery, inside an enigma.
Well....I guess we'll never know what was indeed wrong......
Well I know the next TT I install will be easier.
Jacktal I don't really understand what the problem was (DC shorting DCC ?... or else),but then the problem is fixed...have fun modelling.
I don't really understand what the problem was (DC shorting DCC ?... or else),but then the problem is fixed...have fun modelling.
You're welcome and best of luck! Enjoy watching that turntable spin and best of all, stop where it is supposed to stop!
Dante
Sorry, Thank you too Jactal!
]Hey All,
Here's the latest about my "TT Turnmoil" I wanted to read over some post on this thread, and "BAMM" it dawn on me Dante's post is right up my alley!! I liminated my DC power that I was using (or tyring to use) for the TT, instead I just ran four feeders like Dante did, to my power buss, I also use a Zephyr and "KAPOWWWW" it worked!!!!! I ran a loco from the approach track to the bridge without a problem!!!!!Now to program the bridge run some trains and get on with building the rest of my Rail Yard,,,!!! thank you guys for the info, and yes Rich, I did make it way to complacated,But thanks for your help, Im sure I'll come across another problem that I will need help with,
Take care and Happy Modelrailroading
Trainsrme1
TrainsRMe1 Here is the latest, I disconnected my feeders to my fan tracks , checked my other connections and I think I have a crossed feeder on my approach track...
Here is the latest, I disconnected my feeders to my fan tracks , checked my other connections and I think I have a crossed feeder on my approach track...
Take a look at the attached track diagram. You have indicated that a series of red feeders are connected to the bottom rails and a black feeders to the top rails. Set up and wired that way, everything should work just fine, no shorts.
You are making this way too complicated and confusing. Start over and carefully wire your feeders and double check their polarity. No experimenting, no trial and error. This is as straight forward as projects can go.
Here is the latest, I disconnected my feeders to my fan tracks , checked my other connections and I think I have a crossed feeder on my approach track, I didn't get to finish the project, but will get to it tomorrow AM!! Will keep you updated!!!
If the "no track" zones are near any of the tracks, just rotate the base so the no track zones are perpendicular. In this case, it can work. Wouldn't have worked for Rich because he had tracks all around half the turntable.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
As soon as I get home from work, I will try that!! Thanks!
Great reply, jacktal.
Now, the OP should do just what you told him, step by step.
And then report back to us.
If the TT is installed as believed it is (sensor below approach track),then the TT should operate fine.Then what I'd do is checking polarity of all tracks WITHOUT the rotating bridge in place.
1)Right rail of approaching track should match Right rail of ALL fan tracks (obviously same for Left side).If any number of the fan tracks don't match,then the problem is elsewhere on the layout.Possibly a wiring error while wiring them OR may be that one or more are connected to a reverse loop on the layout.Sometimes,loops aren't obvious so slow careful examination will tell if it's the case.No need to go further until both approach and fan track polarities are matching.
2)Then install the rotating bridge.According to Walthers programming instructions,have the rotating bridge return to the ZERO point.Then,even if not aligned with them,the polarity of the bridge should match both the APPROACH and FAN track polarities.If it doesn't,switch the DCC power wires to the TT's control module.
3)Then,when polarities check OK at the ZERO point,rotate the bridge manually by holding the button (don't care for programming at this point) a half turn (180 degrees).If the TT works right,then again all polarities should match.If they do,then the TT is properly installed and you can start programming.
BTW,I use a simple automotive 12V test lamp to check DCC polarity.One can get one at auto parts store for cheap or make himself one with a simple bulb and wires.
It looks like the NO TRACK area is perpendicular to the approach track from markings on the layout surface. If that is the case, then the optical sensor is below the approach track.
Picture isn't helping since there's no way to tell where the "no track" areas are.
Thanks for posting the pic, like I said, I'm thinking about switching the feeder wires on the fan tracks, hope that works,
Here is a photo of the OP's setup.
TrainsRMe1 Yes Rich, that would be cool.
Yes Rich, that would be cool.
TrainsRMe1 Here's the latest, I figured out that my fan tracks feeders are wired the same as the main track, they should be wired opposite of the main, I'll try that and let you guys know later!!!
Here's the latest, I figured out that my fan tracks feeders are wired the same as the main track, they should be wired opposite of the main, I'll try that and let you guys know later!!!
Just try 1 fan track as a test!
Rather than guess and/or trial and error, send me the pic in JPG form or such, and I will post it for you.
Should I send you a PM with my email address?
dante Rich, I well understand that you had resolved the issue for your situation, but I am curious if you ever tried reversing those B connections before installing the AR?
Rich,
I well understand that you had resolved the issue for your situation, but I am curious if you ever tried reversing those B connections before installing the AR?
The instructions said, to match radial tracks, "you can reverse polarity by interchanging the B1 and B2 wires" that power the bridge rails. But, that wasn't the problem since the bridge track rails already matched polarity with the left side approach track and all of the roundhouse tracks.
When I reversed the B1 and B2 wires, I solved the right side approach track but screwed up the left side approach track.
Jacktal I believe the Walthers turntables are designed the same way,wether HO or N,or at least they should in my mind.And since they are to be used with either DC or DCC,they can't and don't have a polarity changing device.They rely on positional relationship between the rotating bridge and the outside tracks connected to them to achieve proper polarity.
I believe the Walthers turntables are designed the same way,wether HO or N,or at least they should in my mind.And since they are to be used with either DC or DCC,they can't and don't have a polarity changing device.They rely on positional relationship between the rotating bridge and the outside tracks connected to them to achieve proper polarity.
I can't speak for the N table, but in the HO table, the bridge rail polarity has nothing to do directly with the outside or service tracks-they are not physically connected. As noted in my recent, I believe the polarity change for the bridge is strictly via the split ring contact. That is the polarity-changing "device," I believe. The power feeds to the service tracks and to the bridge must be consistent, as discussed before. If so, an AR should not be required.
P.S. All those little electrons spinning about make me dizzy!
I well understand that you had resolved the issue for your situation, but I am curious if you ever tried reversing those B connections before installing the AR? Related, here is an excerpt from another and earlier forum thread:
I just hooked up the new 130' TT. I ran 4 feeder wires from the main DCC Power buss to the control box (2 each from each Buss). I have had no problem with power (Command Station is Zephyr Xtra - 3 AMP). The only thing I needed to change when I ran my first loco on the bridge was to switch leads at the control box because the loco would short going on the bridge. Once switched there were no issues. In other words:
Connections
1 & 4 originally attached to the Red Buss -- Switched to Black Buss
2 & 3 originally attached to the Black Buss -- Switched to Red Buss
My DCC system has 12VAC on the track when metered.
Hope this helps you."
As for the TT, I believe you are basically correct. The outer contact ring on the bridge pivot is split in half with insulating gaps at the 2 splits. One half of the ring must be one polarity and the other half vice-versa. Those insulating gaps produce the dead zone. There are 3 rings on the bridge post in addition to the outer split ring and 8 wipers on the pit pedestal. I assume that the 2 outboard wipers power the halves of the split ring and therefore, the bridge rails. The other rings must power the bridge drive motor via the circuit board. But what do I know ?!