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Recommended Decoder for Proto 2000 PA

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  • Member since
    September 2003
  • 10,582 posts
Posted by mlehman on Thursday, May 1, 2014 6:13 PM

Rich,

Yes, it does look like the later run with the low amp motor.

If you happen to have a test track and a DC powerpack with an ammeter, that could also give you a ball park figure. If the loco is the only thing on the track, the pack's metter should read approx. what the draw is. I've learned power pack meters are somewhat iffy, but all you're looking for is a ballpark figure here. If it's uner 1/2 amp, you good. If it's an amp or better, then it's first run.

I'm pretty confident that's a later run loco you have, but with my CRS these days, I don't always trust my memory.

Note that you may have issues with the special light for the signal/Mars light. I went with an LED, although I suppose there's something that could make the bulb work on DCC.

Mike Lehman

Urbana, IL

  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Dearborn Station
  • 24,281 posts
Posted by richhotrain on Thursday, May 1, 2014 5:23 PM

Mike, that looks just like my PA chassis.   Here is a photo of the chassis.

Rich

Alton Junction

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • 10,582 posts
Posted by mlehman on Thursday, May 1, 2014 3:42 PM

Rich,

I think these pics should help. If you loco looks like the chassis on my PB, it's second run with the better motor. No lights on a B unit, but A unit will look the same except more wiring. The motor on the first run is some squarish look chunk IIRC and I think the weight that surrounds the motor on this one was different, too. Been a few years.

To measure amps, you either have to put a meter in series with the circuit with a wired one or use a "clamp-on" ammeter. It must be rated above the anticipated load. The fancier clamp-on ones don't need to be wired in, but not sure they would work with something this small.

Anyway, here's a top view.

And a view with the DCC board out of the cubby hole where it sits. Note the chassis is turned 180 degrees from the previous pic.

A side view.

Front of PB, with DCC board nested on top.

The DC board. Note how the 8-pin is sitting there, but not all connections go to it.

If the leads with the new decoder ar long enough, you should be able to lay it where mine is on the PB. That's the cab space on the A-unit, so the DCC baord will likely go on top of or instead of the DC board for it. But all the wires converge right under the 8 pin plug or nearby on the DC board.

Hope this helps and can probably answer any more questions.

 

Mike Lehman

Urbana, IL

  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Dearborn Station
  • 24,281 posts
Posted by richhotrain on Thursday, May 1, 2014 2:21 PM

How do you know if you have the first or second run?

What is the best way to measure the amps?

Rich

Alton Junction

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • 10,582 posts
Posted by mlehman on Thursday, May 1, 2014 12:56 PM

Rich,

Yeah, if the first run, scary high amp readings. I sold mine and swapped shells around so I ended up with a second run PA-PB set. I used the NCE D13SR in them, which is virtually plug-and-play. Can send a pic if you want a peek. Makes for a clean install.

Mike Lehman

Urbana, IL

  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Dearborn Station
  • 24,281 posts
Posted by richhotrain on Thursday, May 1, 2014 6:43 AM

Thanks, David, good advice.  I just bought two new PAs, probably have been sitting in the box for 10 years or more.

Rich

Alton Junction

  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Dearborn Station
  • 24,281 posts
Recommended Decoder for Proto 2000 PA
Posted by richhotrain on Thursday, May 1, 2014 6:35 AM

Any suggestions for a non-sound decoder for my new baby?

Rich

Alton Junction

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