LOL!
I have pieces of 131 lb rail cut 10" each, as door stops to support the doors during 60 mph gusts from the desert thermals in the summer.
By the way.
I run my layout with a pair of MRC 550's...about 35 years old. Great high output power packs and they can be had in good shape for about $30. used. I've had no problems with those old rheostats on new motors.
Mark H
Modeling in HO...Reading and Conrail together in an alternate history.
zstripe If the door was hung properly to begin with, you would not need a door stop.
If the door was hung properly to begin with, you would not need a door stop.
Ouch
Alton Junction
Living in Houston suburbia, the key to good living is outstanding A/C systems. In my situation, a door stop is not used to keep a mis-hung door from moving around, but rather to hold it open when the whirlwind A/C kicks in.
And as others down here will attest, A/C can often be used 10 months of the year.
ENJOY !
Mobilman44
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
Just My .
If the door was hung properly to begin with, you would not need a door stop. Maybe one on the trim, to stop the door-knob from hitting the wall.
But what do I know!
Frank
Well, I have the doorstop situation covered pretty well, so I didn't need the pack for that. Decades ago I picked up a few of the glass insulators (from RR telephone poles) and they are perfect for even the nicest of doors.
I can't believe you thew away a perfectly good DOORSTOP. Now you will have to go scrounge up a brick.
James in Texas
NOTHING worked on the unit in any way shape or form. It was kaput!
As all 6 pins of the switch were embedded in the board (as opposed to having wires connected to them), I didn't want to mess with it. A man has to know his limitations................
Now, now, let's not be too harsh.
The OP got a like new MRC 1370 for not that much money, and ditched the old one which wasn't working anyhow.
I would have done the same thing.
Rich
Well it is your money. But a waste. Didn't the fixed DC/AC output work? You don't have to switch polarity on them. Lights, switch machines, etc.
Take Care!
Too late now - but the direction switch is the very last item (except maybe a circuit breaker) before the wires connect to the track terminal screws - so a switch OUTSIDE the case would work just as well, no figuring out how to make one fit.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Well, I couldn't stand the suspense and cut a groove in the end of a screwdriver, and opened the case. Of course it was filled with electronics on a circuit board, and the DPDT directional switch is set directly into the board. I suspect that the board may have failed, but can't be sure. Yes, I could wire in another switch, but finding one that would fit the board and opening would be a bit of a challenge, and of course I have no assurance that a new switch would fix the problem.....
Sooo, the trusty Klein wirecutters made quick work of the cord, and the remains rest in my hobby room trash bin.
Well, my "new" Railpower 1370 came yesterday, and it looks almost new and works just great. The seller says it was only used as a/c power for his DCC layout, and sat untouched under the layout for 7 years.
I still have the old one, and will open it up when I get to it.
Meanwhile, everything here is back in working order..........
Well, the OP already bought a new one. Since the issue with the old one is the direction switch, in a pinch a new one can be added on outside, without opening the pack.
Beware old rheostat packs, unless all you ever run on them is vintage HO equipment and none of the newer low current stuff. Now if it's a Tech II series, or one of the earlier MRC transistor ones (I always drooled over the ControlMaster XI - I think that's the one - with dual meters, adjustable pulse width, and all the bells and whistles.) Even the basic packs like the 1370 are transistor these days, and workw ith all scales and any motor. But a classic MRC pack liek the Golden ThrottlePack 501 - not going to work with modern low current can motors. Or those cheap train set packs which you can probably get 5 for $1 - those old Tyco and LifeLike ones that came with train sets in the 70's. Might be ok for a dozen light bulbs or so, but not for running trains any more.
FWIW I was at a RR flea market Saturday, there were a number of old MRC powerpacks on sale in the $20-30 range. Might be easier than taking one apart.
No, it's not like a tube tv that has a large capacitor and high voltage transformer inside that you need to discharge first.
zstripe Over the years, MRC used all kinds of tamper proof screws. A couple of Tech II's I have use 6-point stars, that can be removed with a good flat blade scrooge driver. Frank
Over the years, MRC used all kinds of tamper proof screws. A couple of Tech II's I have use 6-point stars, that can be removed with a good flat blade scrooge driver.
Actually on my MRC 1370's, the screw has a straight slot but blocked across the center.
Maybe you need to take a Dremel to an old screw driver and cut an indentation in the center of the blade.
If it has the other security screws, they can be removed with fine point needle nose pliers.
A switch that should be similar, to that one:
No power whatsoever comes out of the dc terminals, and my educated guess is the slide switch just gave out. Until I grind me a driver that will work, I can use it for a pretty nice doorstop.
On my Tech 2 2400 and 2500 packs, the security screws use a T 10 anti tamper torx extended shank bit or a T 10 anti tamper torx screwdriver :
Jim
These packs have security screws. The proper tool can be bought if you can identify which type it is. I have done that in the past but I have worked with 120AC and higher voltage over the years. I enjoy repairing things. Possibly some contact cleaner sprayed into the reverse switch might work if the switch is not broke.
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
Other than their odd screws (sometimes reported as a UL requirement, so people don;t open them up and touch the 120VAC wires and shock themselves), this would be an easy fix, new direction switch. Actually, if it still puts out power, but you just can't reverse it, just hot glue a new switch to the back of the case and wire it between the track output terminals and the track. Don;t even have to open it up!
The problem lies in the directional switch, which had to be jiggled for some time to make it work. Suddenly, jiggling doesn't do the trick. The pack has 4 screws on the bottom, significantly recessed. They are slotted, but the slot is not continuous, so normal screwdrivers won't work.
I'm keeping the pack, and will take an old screwdriver and cut a groove in the center and get the old one apart. I suspect the slide switch is kaput, and while I likely can't get a perfect match, it likely can be replaced with most any spdt or dpdt switch that would fit.
But I don't feel like fooling with it now, and I got a replacement for $18 at auction. Given that I rarely use it anyway, I probably won't use the new one until next winter, if then.
Even though the OP is indicating that he bought a used one on eBay, it still makes sense to salvage the current one if you can.
Can an MRC 1370 be opened up without damaging it in order to inspect it?
richhotrain What could have gone wrong with the OP's MRC 1370? Can it be repaired? Is there an internal fuse that blew? Rich
What could have gone wrong with the OP's MRC 1370?
Can it be repaired?
Is there an internal fuse that blew?
Rich,
MRC does not provide schematics to their packs. So, it is difficult to determine the internal path and values of the pack. If you have a known good unit to compare too, its much easier.
Other than a loose or cold solder joint, odds are it does need a part. However, MRC does not sell parts or boards so now you have to find a suitable replacement.
With the price of used and NOS packs on Ebay................
They have a internal circuit breaker to protect against shorts. It could have finally gave out. There are ways to test and repair, but it doesn't appear that he wants to do that. So His decision to replace it would be fine with me.
Have Fun!, Be Happy, in Your Power Pack.
Thanks Randy! I picked up another newer Railpower on Ebay yesterday.
Decades ago in the 1970s I had the 501 Throttlepack for the basement layout. It was the best I could afford, and worked great with the old Athearn locos.