Frank, I offered the suggestion for the Controller to simplify the wiring, especially for the common wire. I do not dig the "for a common wiring...period" of your entry. and don't think it will help the OP, but that's just my thought (OP: disregard this post) Frank, while you are coming down so tight on entries, please go to SOO's wiring diagram and move the short siding rail above the long rail of the siding to reflect the true alignment and correct placement of the insulated rail joiner. Thanks, Respectfully, JWH
JWH,
With all due respect,,,,,I was involved in the thread from the very beginning,the problem he had was solved and he did not need a controller to do so...His layout had the diagrams,of it,,he just did not understand,how to hook it up correctly.. I will say,,the main purpose of having a controller,is for reversing loops,wyes and turntables,,and he has neither on his plan..I havn't used common rail wiring system since 1958 at 15 yrs old,,but that does not mean,I don't know what I'm talking about...And if I sound tight,,I apologize..
Cheers,
Frank
I don;t see how using a Controller would simplify the common wire - you still have to run them all back to a single wire to attach tot he common screw on the Controller. Unless you go back to the old Atlas way and use just 1 common wire for the entire layout - in which case perfromance will be rather poor due to intermittant connections through rail joiners. I'm very happy to see they've updated their wiring diagrams to include multiple feeds ont he common side.
I have to say, I've never used common rail on a DC layout - way back when I learned from my Dad, every time we had another block or a siding, he always ran two wires back, and put insulated joiners in both rails. Nary a common rail was found on our layout. Not sure where he learned to wire layouts, but he was an Electrician's Mate in the Navy.
I have many different Atlas track plan books, in HO and N, with all the wiring digrams, all that common rail stuff. Never actually wired one like that, and I built a few layouts from those books. I just continued on with the double gaps and two wires back to the panel way I'd always seen before. The 'new way' retains the common rail, and still allows the use of the Atlas electrical components, which are designed for common rail, yet overcomes the primary shortcoming, namely insuffificent feeders on the common rail.
Regardless, you still have to keep which rail is which straight throughout all the wiring, and the insulated joiners between blocks (or cut gaps) are extremely critical.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
.sorry didn't see some of the latter posts. This was duplicating some.
Hey Guys,
Thanks for keeping this going for me!Between school starting for the 3 boys and working some nights, the track got away from me.However, today I added in all the insulators got the trains moving, somewhat.And what I mean is a train would only run up front.And I didn't really have any true control over anything.So I obviously now have the power problem.So, where is the best online place to find my 20g. wire?And can I just run the common wire from block to block (looped)?That would surely cut down on wiring.
Thanks Again,Brad
Brad,
In answer to your,common wire question,, yes you can..Every block section should have a common rail feeder,for the most reliable power operation..The selector wire that goes to each block must be the only wire,that goes to your insulated block feeder wire,,,but all the other common feeder wires,can be,looped as you call it together,to form one wire,going back to your common wire hook-up at your power packs..As far as wire goes,,I would try to stay with at least 18 gauge wire for your main wire coming from your selector switches and 22,24,for your feeder wires...If you are going to use terminal power connections,,then just use,the 18 gauge wire for all your track connections,,Just remember to have a color code for your common rail connection and your block,connection,coming from your selectors and stick to it..Where to get your wire,,I can't answer,,for I don't know where you live..If you have any Big Box stores near you,try them first and ask for Bell wire,,18 gauge wire is normally used for that..Bell wire,is Doorbell wire..comes in different colors,solid and stranded..
Hope That Helps...I have been wondering where you were at..We all have are priorities..
BWMundrtkrAnd what I mean is a train would only run up front.
where is the best online place to find my 20g. wire?
And can I just run the common wire from block to block (looped)?
TZ,
Lets let him do all his wiring connections first,with the color coded wire...He started with a muddled bunch of wires,in the beginning.. Then we will hear what happens..
Frank, getting rid of several of the muddled wires was a big factor in SUGGESTING the use of a Connector. Also in consideration was the use of directional control in one location, co-located with the Selectors. These uses, while not employing TT or RL, are "neater" for me. Randy, I still use the single Common connection off the old Connector, with drops to the common rail for each separate block all the way 'round. Original Poster: these still stand as SUGGESTIONS, only. Respectfully, JWH
RetGMFrank, getting rid of several of the muddled wires was a big factor in SUGGESTING the use of a Connector.
Actually, using the controller requires one more wire on the common rail side, so you are not getting rid of anything, you are adding a wire.
Using the controller requires one wire from each pack. Then a third wire to the rail.
Using the selector without the controller requires one wire connecting the two packs together. Then a second wire from either pack terminal to the rail.
Jim
Jim, I yield to your count of wires, but I meant the term "muddled" to indicate the maze of connected wireing...my bad. Thanks for correcting the track diagram. Respectfully, JWH
RetGM Jim, I yield to your count of wires, but I meant the term "muddled" to indicate the maze of connected wireing...my bad. Thanks for correcting the track diagram. Respectfully, JWH
Retgm,
JWH,,Go back at the beginning,of the OP's post,he sent some pics,,,,then maybe you will understand,,what I meant by,(muddled),,all different,kinds of wires and no color code,as to what they are for..It is easy for anyone,to make a wiring mistake that way..
zstripewhat I meant by,(muddled),,all different,kinds of wires and no color code,as to what they are for..It is easy for anyone,to make a wiring mistake that way.
This is muddled
JIM,
Those are,,,,''Fruit Loops''...
Thing is, those ARE color coded. The OP really only needs 2 colors of wire, one for the switched rail and oen for the common rail side.
Soo Line fanThis is muddled
A lot of the Big semi tractors,IH, Peterbilt and Freightliner,that I have worked on,,had all black wires,,with little white tags attached to them,with black numbers,,,if you did not have a schematic,,good luck!!
Texas Zepher Soo Line fanThis is muddled Actually that doesn't look that bad. I'm guessing there is a service manual somewhere that says exactly what the each of those color/size wires is.
The manuals are all electronic, paper is virtually gone. If I write a procedure and a change is needed, it is easy to go and edit it. Once a paper book is printed, it will always be a problem, even with a update because half the time the update is lost or nobody is aware of it.
zstripe A lot of the Big semi tractors,IH, Peterbilt and Freightliner,that I have worked on,,had all black wires,,with little white tags attached to them,with black numbers,,,if you did not have a schematic,,good luck!! Cheers, Frank
There are only so many colors that are used on wiring. No such thing as aqua and chartreuse. After the basic colors are used up, they can add a tracer. But again there are only so many combinations. But when you have a single control module with 100 to 200 wires. And maybe 20 other control modules of similar configuration, the wire colors have to be repeated.
So it is good service practice is to use different colors within a single connector. The connector number and terminal number is more important than the color. Color becomes important when opening up a harness and tracing a wire. Color is also a good sanity check when looking at a connector.
Are you saying? I fell off a '' Turnip Truck ''?
Wow, 1385 views and 48 replies to a "very basic wiring question".
Alton Junction
Yeah,,,We are just,passing time,,waiting for the OP,to respond,with his new wiring..Hopefully,,,the Thread won't be locked,,before we find out..
Soo Line fanThere are only so many colors that are used on wiring. No such thing as aqua and chartreuse.
50 pair phone cables actually have 2 of every color combination. When hooking them up you either use a tone generator or since many times the terminations are just crimps or punches, if it's the wrong pair you just redo it.
Texas Zepher Soo Line fanThere are only so many colors that are used on wiring. No such thing as aqua and chartreuse. Really? Those colors, well similar non-prime, are available in 100 pair telephone cables.
I thought we were discussing the under dash photo I posed, since you did inquire about service information. My example was in response to Franks complaint about all black OTR wiring with some examples of automotive wiring.
Since I do not work in the phone industry, will not comment on what they use.
Those telephone wire cables,do come in handy though,for Model Railroad use,,especially in interior lighting for buildings and such,,how about the ''Candy Cane'' colored ones?
Yep, I use the 4 conductor type for switch machines.
Come to think of it,,We should have mentioned that to the OP,when he asked for a source for wire,,I got 6 conductor,18 gauge solid copper wire,from a telephone guy,,25 ft of it to be exact,,,for free,you surely,can't beat that price..
I was thinking the same thing RICH. My computer may not have enough memory should a complicated question arise
floridaflyer I was thinking the same thing RICH. My computer may not have enough memory should a complicated question arise
Rich
richhotrain floridaflyer I was thinking the same thing RICH. My computer may not have enough memory should a complicated question arise Rich
Sounds to me that it is already running,,pretty slow....