I understand what you are saying. I once started out basic but I've come a long way. I started this hobby in 2002 with the GG1 Millennium Express train set, in DC then I got my first DCC, the Digitrax Zephyr. Now I have the DB150 with the DT402D duplex radio throttle, and a Locobuffer II USB connected to my PC. Everything is working out the good so far thanks to you and everyone's help in this forum. This has took me 11 years in the making. I have decided that this will be my final track design the only thing is to get it off the floor. If I have to disconnect the wires and trackage that will be very discouraging for anyone to start all over which I'm not planning to do.
I really do appreciate the help everyone has giving me. My project is really working out good so far.
Difference being Allo actually appreciates the help, SUX thought all we were trying to do was put him down. He just didn;t get that the things we were saying NOT to do weren;t because we are hobby snobs, but because they are the things we tried ourselves and found didn;t work.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
richhotrain Soo Line fan A lumber yard will pre-cut wood for a nominal fee. Then it is simply using dry wall screws to assemble a basic table. Anyone capable of wiring and assembling track should be able to use a driver. Kinda reminds me of the saga of Sux rider. And we know how that ended.......................... So true. Wonder whatever became of him? Rich
Soo Line fan A lumber yard will pre-cut wood for a nominal fee. Then it is simply using dry wall screws to assemble a basic table. Anyone capable of wiring and assembling track should be able to use a driver. Kinda reminds me of the saga of Sux rider. And we know how that ended..........................
A lumber yard will pre-cut wood for a nominal fee. Then it is simply using dry wall screws to assemble a basic table. Anyone capable of wiring and assembling track should be able to use a driver.
Kinda reminds me of the saga of Sux rider. And we know how that ended..........................
So true. Wonder whatever became of him?
Rich
He is here:
http://historyculturebybicycle.blogspot.com/
http://siouxcityjournal.com/users/profile/sux%20vr40%20rider/
JoeinPA It's biking season. Perhaps he may be back in the winter Joe
It's biking season. Perhaps he may be back in the winter
Joe
I hope he does, if nothing else it was good for a laugh. We had some funny discussions, like about the ground hogs.
Never before in the history of this forum, has one member asked for, and received so much help, from so many members, on so many issues. And despite telling everyone where to go we still continued to offer help.
Jim
I will take the advice.
Alton Junction
Mobilman:
Your advice is excellent but unfortunately I'm afraid that it will fall on deaf ears as similar advice in the recent past has. Too bad.
To the OP, please take this as constructive, repeat constructive advice:
You appear to be putting the cart before the horse, doing advanced electronics before having a solid layout in place. I urge you to stop, disconnect everything, and get the layout off the floor. OK, you have a problem with woodworking. So get yourself a number of sawhorses - either ready made or made with 2x4s - and place your sheets of plywood on them. If more than one sheet, get some scrap 1x2s and screw them to adjoing sheets to hold them together. This is not the preferred way to build a layout base, but it sure beats sitting on the floor.
Design the trackage, lay the roadbed and track, and then look at wiring. I would urge you to photo the result and send to the Forum for advice before you start putting in stuff that may not be appropriate.
DCC operation can be fairly simple, or hugely complicated. As you are new to this, start out simple and build up as you master what you have already done.
Frankly, you need to test running trains and trackage before you go thru all the complexities. And, getting the trains to stay on the track is often a difficult task for a newcomer. Do that first, and it will make things a lot easier later on.
FYI...... I have a 11x15 two level room filling HO layout. I use a 5 amp Super Chief with another 5 amp booster. There are 8 power districts, each with the dedicated circuit breaker. Frankly, I probably don't need the extra 4 districts and would not notice the difference. This was not an overnight set up, having taken a couple years to get up and running.
My point is, like they say, start out simple - at least until you get the hang of things and the trains running.
Mobilman44
ENJOY !
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
zstripe I'm glad,''My papers'', ARE IN ORDER,,,, Cheers, Frank
I'm glad,''My papers'', ARE IN ORDER,,,,
Cheers,
Frank
Watch your back, Frank, you could be next. Glad to hear that you are paper trained, LOL
Is there a difference between a detection section and a zone? How come the numbers on page 19 are not in order when it says "First Detection section (1,5,9,or 13)."
There are 4 zones, each with 4 sections. THat's why the numbers go 1,5,9,13
[1 - 2 - 3 - 4] [5 - 6 - 7 - 8] [9 - 10 - 11 - 12] [13 - 14 - 15 - 16]
alloboard I see the pattern now. The first number of every group. The numbers looked dazzling at first.
I see the pattern now. The first number of every group. The numbers looked dazzling at first.
OK, that's it. I am using my powers of self-policing to ban alloboard from the forum.
Actually, the numbers 1, 5, 9, 13 are in order.
There's a device that changes guages of trains on the go. It's so cool, never seen anything like it. It's TALGO of Spain.
Check it out: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZiH4kt14yGw
and this one too: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U_LFIUkcPNM
There are four sockets, one for each zone.
Zone A has blocks 1,2,3,& 4
Zone B has blocks 5,6,7,& 8
Etc.
Which block you are testing depends on which socket the tester is in.
Dave
Lackawanna Route of the Phoebe Snow
My bad forgot all about that LT5 tester. I will concentrate on that. After this I promise no more questions only updates on my progress. On page 19 it says "LED for First Detection section (1,5,9,or 13) then Second etc." I find the numbers confusing and they don't seem coherent. I really need help understanding this one. You guys are helping me out so far.
This just goes on and on and on.
I think the best course of action is for alloboard to get on the phone with Technical Support at Digitrax and talk through his entire electronic set up with their experts.
To alloverboard,
Have you even looked over the instruction manual? It comes with an LT5 tester and the steps are in the manual. BTW, LT5 looks like the LT1 tester. Don't mix them up.
Martin Myers
My next step in my layout project is to wire the PM42 to the BDL168. We use the quarter trick to test short circuits for Digitrax command stations and the PM42. Now how can one test a BDL168? How can I know that it is working correctly once I finish the wiring. How can I test it?
I used to own a Zephyr myself back in 2004 when I first got one.
OMG! I know that a model railroad layout is usually on a table but this is temporary. I'm not that stupid, I put bubble wrap beneath the electronic components. I'm no carpenter to build a custom table. What should I do then? and thanks for the warning.
I will upload a revised picture and video of my layout and the work that I did splicing 5 wires with the terminal strips.
The Zephyr as a command station has more features than a DB150. I don;t use it other than as a command station, it's under the layout too. I have multiple other throttles I use. I'll never be able to fit 12 trains on my layout at the same time, so the ability of the DB150 to run 22 isn;t something I need. The Zephyr's track output powers my stationary decoders, only the DB150 goes to the rails, via a PM42.
I have a Locobuffer connecting the system to a computer, I also have a PR3 on a standalone program track. The program track is on a piece of shelving and has Kadee couple gauges on the ends and is also marked off in NMRA weight graduations so I can use to to check coupler height and car weight as well as program locos. And it has a Loksound programmer so I can program sounds in Loksound decoders.
I understand it now. Why not get a DT402D duplex wireless throttle like I have? Sell your zephyr .They are very convenient. I highly recommend it. Is your system hooked to your PC like mine is via Locobuffer and the Java Model Railroad Interface software plus RR and Co software?
The jumper makes my DB150 a booster. I have a Zephyr that is the command station. If you only have the DB150 you do not want the jumper, it needs to be your command station. If you add a second one, one of them will need the Config A to Ground jumper. Command stations in DCC are like Highlander - there can be only one.
I noticed on your picture that your DB150 has a jumper cable from config A to ground. I don't have a jumper connected to my DB150. Should I connect a jumper? and what does the jumper do?
rrinkerLike I said, I crimp mine on then solder them as well - they definetly are reliable that way. I use my high power soldering gun for that, heat the terminal and wire at the ring end, and feed solder in the back. Result, solidly attached terminals that won;t pull out like just crimped on ones sometimes can.
We have done a lot of testing, using various methods and this is the absolute best connection possible. Nothing beats a crimp / solder joint.