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Adding A PM42

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Posted by tstage on Friday, May 24, 2013 8:39 PM

richhotrain

I'm gonna sit back and wait for tstage to comment on this one.

Rich

Not gonna do it, Rich.  You can't make me...

https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling

Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.

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Posted by Phoebe Vet on Friday, May 24, 2013 8:03 PM

The PM42 must go BEFORE the BDL168.  The PM42 cannot connect to the track in the same section as the BDL168.

I think you are in way over your head here.

The input to the PM42 should come from the command station.  Each of the 4 outputs of the PM42 should be connected to a power input of the BDL168.  Completely eliminate to connection from the command station to the 4 power inputs of the BDL168.  Connect the detection segments of the BDL168 to the appropriate segments of the track.  DO NOT CONNECT THE PM42 TO THE DETECTION SEGMENTS OF THE TRACK.

Dave

Lackawanna Route of the Phoebe Snow

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Posted by richhotrain on Friday, May 24, 2013 7:46 PM

I'm gonna sit back and wait for tstage to comment on this one.

Rich

Alton Junction

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Posted by alloboard on Friday, May 24, 2013 7:42 PM

The image above is an updated version of my layout map with markings and labels and a color code representing the detection sections.

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Posted by rrinker on Saturday, April 20, 2013 11:34 AM

 And to be back on topic, the answer to the question is once again, "it depends". Some people isolate the area around a turnout, to have an interlocking defined so that it can lock out the turnout when occupied. Or the entire area around a crossover. And then one or more blocks in the track connecting two of these interlocking areas - it depends on the length of the track and the train lengths that will be run. If the section of track is only 1 1/2 train lengths, it's kind of silly to divide it into more 2 detection blocks. Stub end parking sidings are not usually detected, unless you intend on trying fully automated operations - then they need to be detected.

 It's a lot of wires - no way around it. Effectively 16 times the wiring, as each section of the BDL168 runs out to the layout for multiple feeder drops to each detected section. You will end up with a LOT more feeders and a lot more gaps cut in the rail. No way around it, it's how detection works.

              --Randy

 


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

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Posted by richhotrain on Saturday, April 20, 2013 6:21 AM

The moderators could be merciful and lock this thread.

Meanwhile, alloboard needs to do five things:

1.   Get the layout up off the floor.

2.   Get some on site expert advice and assistance in completing the wiring.

3.   Learn the proper wiring techniques and the function of each electronic component.

4.   Simplify the entire process and quit trying to build an ultra-sophisticated electronic complex.

5.  Learn to communicate more effectively on this forum and establish better dialog.

Rich

Alton Junction

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Posted by zstripe on Saturday, April 20, 2013 5:46 AM

I like the ''toaster'' one.... LOL...

Cheers,

Frank

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Posted by Soo Line fan on Friday, April 19, 2013 7:17 PM

rrinker

 Where's their Kia Soul?

          --Randy

Ask and ye shall receive  Gift

Jim

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Posted by rrinker on Friday, April 19, 2013 5:50 PM

 Where's their Kia Soul?

          --Randy


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

  • Member since
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Posted by Soo Line fan on Friday, April 19, 2013 1:07 PM

Jim

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Posted by tstage on Friday, April 19, 2013 6:54 AM

https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling

Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.

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Posted by zstripe on Friday, April 19, 2013 3:58 AM

ALLOBOARD,

No offence to You, or anything,bad to say,,, But in my own opinion,,, you are trying to build a tremendous,house, without a foundation, even if you did want to build some sort of table,in that room,you would have to remove,everything that you have done so far,in order to do so,,, Good Luck,,,

Cheers,

Frank

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Posted by alloboard on Friday, April 19, 2013 3:32 AM

     The above image is my drawn image and the illustrated diagram from page 6 of the Digitrax BDL168. The black rectangles are the double gapped insulators. Based on the map if this section of my layout equal to one PM42 section assuming 4 detection sections will go to it, where would you suggest for me to put the four detection sections because the turnouts, the long lengths of the tracks, and the multiple lanes makes the wiring a little puzzling to me. Everything else is working out perfectly thanks to everyone's help in this forum.

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Posted by alloboard on Friday, April 19, 2013 3:26 AM

Good suggestion. I'm currently thinking of a re-design.

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Posted by JoeinPA on Thursday, April 18, 2013 4:55 PM

Alloboard:

Why not take the time now to think of a re-design of your layout or part of it so that your table(s) will fit into the space you have? All of us have built layouts and then made major changes to allow for better running or to better utilize the space we have. Your most important consideration is to get it up off the floor on to a stable base so that your work will yield the results you want not frustration.

Joe

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Posted by alloboard on Thursday, April 18, 2013 1:37 PM

     I'm willing to get my layout off the floor but, I will need my layout on the table to have a turnaround, which may not fit within that space. I will definitely get all of those electronics off the floor.

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Posted by alloboard on Thursday, April 18, 2013 1:31 PM

I will label everything and use color coded wiring.Smile, Wink & Grin Your wiring looks nice and organized.

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Posted by JoeinPA on Saturday, April 13, 2013 12:45 PM

He has already been given lots of good advice and he doesn't seem to want to listen. It's sad but he will probably have to learn from his mistakes.

Joe

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Posted by Soo Line fan on Saturday, April 13, 2013 12:36 PM

In addition to the electrical mess, no way that track is going to stay together for long, the joiners are going to flex and lose tension.

Jim

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Posted by rrinker on Saturday, April 13, 2013 11:03 AM

Indeed. Normal plastic bubble wrap and bags is an even greater static generator then the bare carpet, and the anti-static type of palstic (often a pink color) is actually somewhat conductive, so you wouldn;t want to lay the boards on any of that stuff. A small panel off some wood material, or even a piece of that white sleving material, like seen on my mounting shelf or my test track, is the way to go. There's not much danger of fire with the relatively low power of everything, but all those board did not come cheap and to have one fry from static or a wire accidently falling onto one of them would not be good.

           --Randy


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

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Posted by mobilman44 on Saturday, April 13, 2013 6:38 AM

May I add..............

Get yourself a piece of 1/4 inch plywood or masonite - perhaps 1x2 or 1x3 feet - and mount your electronics on that, and as previously suggested, label everything.  

I would also use color coded wires as practical.

In my opinion, you are in a "self defeating mode" by having your trackage and electronics set up on the floor.   You are wasting time and effort and bringing only frustration upon yourself.

Of course I understand the lure of fancy electronics and the fire to get trains up and running........... but putting it all unmounted and on the floor is just an exercise in futility. 

Enough said.

 

ENJOY  !

 

Mobilman44

 

Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central 

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Posted by Phoebe Vet on Saturday, April 13, 2013 6:20 AM

alloboard

The following is my upgraded layout: VIDEO0310zpsb1049b0b.mp4.html

This is my BDL168 and PM42:

 

Save yourself a lot of future frustration.  Label everything.

 

Dave

Lackawanna Route of the Phoebe Snow

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Posted by richhotrain on Saturday, April 13, 2013 6:08 AM

YIKES !

Don't get electrocuted !

Dead

Alton Junction

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Posted by alloboard on Saturday, April 13, 2013 12:44 AM

The following is my upgraded layout: VIDEO0310zpsb1049b0b.mp4.html

This is my BDL168 and PM42:

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Posted by alloboard on Thursday, April 11, 2013 7:44 PM

True I don't even want to imagine the horror of that type of issue!Tongue Tied

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Posted by rrinker on Thursday, April 11, 2013 7:39 PM

 Well, it DOES matter if you have more than one booster, because of one section is wired opposite the other, when a train crosses the gap between the section powered by booster A into the section controlled by booster B, it will be a dead short.

 The type of Loconet cables also matters, if the downstream device is a booster or a BDL168, especially if adding RX4s for transponding. Proper data orientation cables throughout will aboid problems. A phone cable flips the wires, which is OK for the Loconet signel and the ground, but reverses the phase of the Railsync signals in the same cable, which is very critical for the transponding since it works by allowing the decoder to send a signal on the rails when the DCC signal is at the 0 point of the square wave. Having one crossed cable somewhere in your wiring chain can result in hair-pulling levels of frustration when it doesn;t work, because just looking at the outside of the cable, all looks to be fine, and the problem isn;t immediately obvious. So take care int he wiring to make sure nothing comes back later to bite you.

                      --Randy

 

 


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: US
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Posted by alloboard on Thursday, April 11, 2013 6:22 PM

     Polarity is not and issue with Rail A and B comming straight from a Digitrax booster unlike DC but from what I've learned polarity is an issue with a power management like the PM42, so I make sure that my rail A and B wires are always matched at the right side.

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Posted by alloboard on Thursday, April 11, 2013 3:04 PM

Thanks for your help.Laugh

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Posted by mobilman44 on Thursday, April 11, 2013 2:54 PM

To the OP..........

You can buy plastic sawhorses at Sears hardware, but a better choice would be to go to Lowes/Home Depot and get a few "sawhorse brackets", and build your own.   Get a few 2x4s, and a saw, and you are in business for relatively few dollars.  

More than a few of us long term MRs started out with sheets of plywood set on sawhorses..........

ENJOY  !

 

Mobilman44

 

Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central 

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