ratdogsoo thanks to all for the insight. excellent perspectives from you guys who have "climbed the hill" so to speak, into some really interesting model railroading. i quess i was just too darn stubborn to join the "tech world". sounds very easy in fact. just need to know your favs on DCC manufacturers. reasonably priced and simple to use. i do want a quality system, not some "oh yea, it'll work ok" deal. i run QSI Quantum for the most part. have a couple of BLI's. i use the DC Master for sound. now that i think about it, i could chuck all these control boxes if i just had a decent DCC control. ok guys, lead the way. i know this link has all i need to my questions and everyone's personal favorite. but the more input the better. thanks from the "ol' fart". regards, michael.
thanks to all for the insight. excellent perspectives from you guys who have "climbed the hill" so to speak, into some really interesting model railroading. i quess i was just too darn stubborn to join the "tech world". sounds very easy in fact. just need to know your favs on DCC manufacturers. reasonably priced and simple to use. i do want a quality system, not some "oh yea, it'll work ok" deal. i run QSI Quantum for the most part. have a couple of BLI's. i use the DC Master for sound. now that i think about it, i could chuck all these control boxes if i just had a decent DCC control. ok guys, lead the way. i know this link has all i need to my questions and everyone's personal favorite. but the more input the better. thanks from the "ol' fart". regards, michael.
NCE and Digitrax are basically the only things to consider, and the closest things to bulletproof* as DCC systems come. Beyond that, the real decider is which one you can get cheaper and if you have friends who run one or the other, in which case you can take the throttle over to their place and use it. If you run on your own, that's a moot point.
*Note, as will all computers, I do not reccomend hiding behind your DCC system when being shot at...
-Morgan
The various systems have manuals that describe how to change CV's. CV's are just numbers you pick from a range of values that each CV is programmed to have. For QSI sound decoders, the range of values, from loudest volume to essentially unheard is 1-15. You pick the number that suits your ears in the space where the locomotive is operating. That's it!
I had the same misgivings as you when I first began to think maybe DCC would be a good way to go. The idea of doing 'programming' is what throws most of us off because we leave that to the pros in the computer world. Well, those pros have thought of the difficulties and have made them push-button simple for us...like the push-button automatic transmissions of yesteryear.
Think of CV's the way you think of the sharps and flats keys on a piano keyboard. They aren't absolutely necessary for composition and for later enjoyment. But what a world of difference any one of those keys makes to music for those who appreciate all that music can be.
Crandell
ratdogsoo,As the other two above have said, CV settings are, for the most part, "Extras". Think of your '78 Chevy. When you bought it from the dealer, it ran just fine from the factory. All you had to do was attach your unique identifier (IOW, your license plate). After that, all you needed to do was put the key in it, start it, and drive. Viola! All the pleasures of driving were yours and you didn't need to be a mechanic to experience it. But say you wanted to get a little something extra out of your Chevy...say a custom exhaust, or new suspension, or messing with the carb.? You need to know what you're doing for that as it's not something for beginners. None of that is needed just to drive your car, but it can make your car more fun to drive.
Compare that to DCC. When you buy it from the "dealer", it's ready to go from the factory. All you have to do is change the address of the decoder (your license plate, as it were). All you need to do after that is turn on the system, select it with your throttle, and off you go. Viola! All the pleasures of independant locomotive control are yours and you don't need to be a computer programmer to experience it. But say you want to get a little something extra out of your decoder-equipped engine...say a custom momentum effect, or some operating lighting features such as ditch lights or beacons, or a total speed curve to match it to another locomotive you have by a different manufacturer? That's what CV's are for. You need to know what you're doing for that as it's not something for beginners. None of that is needed just to operate your loco on DCC, but it can make your loco more fun to operate.
Paul A. Cutler III
Can't get away from it. You HAVE to have a unique address for every DCC loco, otherwise it will function no differently than a single cab DC system. If you can figure out how to use a computer and post on this forum, you can do the basics needed for DCC. The 'extras' are just that, extras, and aren't needed to be able to run trains with DCC. But that stuff lets you do things like fine tune the operation of each loco for exactly the speed and momentum and so forth that you want. And if you take the loco to a friend's house, it still runs the same way as you set it, because the settings are stored in the loco, not the controller.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Well as far as CV's, remember they're all set for you at the factory. With my Digitrax Zephyr when I get a new engine and put a decoder in it (or buy one with a decoder installed), here's what I do: I put the engine on the programming track, and read the loco / decoder four-digit ID no. It should come up "0003". If it does, it means there are no shorts or other problems with the decoder. Then I punch in the ID no. I want for the engine (the no. on the engine, like 3489) and hit the program button.
That's it. The other CV's are set at the factory, and I can put it on the layout and run the engine on DCC.
Now later you can go back and change CV's to add momentum, change lighting effects etc. But you don't HAVE to change the CVs to run trains.
yea, i know "tricks" was a dumb word to use. i duly respect all who operate DCC systems. maybe it is just too late for this "ol' fart" to change. i truly would love to have a train backing into a siding, while another passes slowly by and so on. but CV settings???? and the rest confound me. maybe some advice on a reasonably priced SIMPLE to operate DCC system. so i can have the best of both worlds as they say. info welcome. yep, i might still drive a '78 Chevy P/U, but i did invest in this PC to get input from all you fellow modelers. you have taught me well. any suggestions on a DCC system would be welcome. by the way, my lionel stuff rests in a "junk box" until this day. memories linger. regards, michael. DOB: march 1837. [just kidding].
The missile on a train was't pure fantasy - check out the Mobile Minuteman program. Looks an awful lot like a breakway box car mouting a missile.
Here's the article I had read. http://www.thortrains.net/NEVERCAR.HTM
Springfield PA
I think I read somewhere that it was made up by Lionel along with other action cars, and didn't have a prototype. The diesel motor next to it is large enough to power a small town so I'm sure it wouldn't have a prototype. Nice looking car though.
Well I know the Reading never had anything like that. Athearn had and current has again a TOFC car with a Reading flat, so you might be right, I;m sure they used the same base molds for multiple cars.
I found it.
Did prototype railroads actually have anything like this? Or was it a silly invention by model train companies? Anyway, it's a very old metal car. The circular recepticles in front of the light make me think this was adapted from a TOFC car. The power pickups are springs attached to the metal axles, one on each truck. Not very reliable pickup, but after 50 years, this thing still works. I did not photoshop in the bright glow from the searchlight.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Hmm, I think I'd actually buy one of those if I saw one.
Hamltnblue That or the car with the big searchlight that spun around.
That or the car with the big searchlight that spun around.
I have an HO scale car with a big searchlight, and the big orange generator. The light doesn't spin around. I think it's a Varney. I'm going to have to find it and replace the horn-hooks with Kadees, now, dagnabbit.
My Lionel HO consisted of the missile launcher, the exploding boxcar, the atomic waste car (a DCC decoder light effect would be great for the red glow), and the section gang car that reversed itself when it hit a bumper - perfect for the DC guys, no DCC needed.
tstage ratdogsoo: i enjoy running trains the way i did in my Lionel days. i don't need them to do tricks. ...DCC has nothing to do with "tricks", Mike. It's just a alternate way to operate a single train (or multiple trains) and to do it realistically. No one (at least that I know of) is trying to do loop-the-loops or shoot rockets off flatbeds with their DCC throttles. Stick with DC. It's your prerogative. Tom
ratdogsoo: i enjoy running trains the way i did in my Lionel days. i don't need them to do tricks.
i enjoy running trains the way i did in my Lionel days. i don't need them to do tricks.
...DCC has nothing to do with "tricks", Mike. It's just a alternate way to operate a single train (or multiple trains) and to do it realistically. No one (at least that I know of) is trying to do loop-the-loops or shoot rockets off flatbeds with their DCC throttles.
Stick with DC. It's your prerogative.
Tom
Darn, now I wish I hadn't sold my Lionel HO missle launching car. I could have converted it to DCC!
ratdogsoo i enjoy running trains the way i did in my Lionel days. i don't need them to do tricks.
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Colorado_Mac hobo9941: What's wrong with alcohol? I thought it was accepted for track cleaning. Alcohol is accepted for making track cleaning bearable. I prefer Jack Daniels in a short glass with three ice cubes. After I drink that, I clean the track. All is good...
hobo9941: What's wrong with alcohol? I thought it was accepted for track cleaning.
Alcohol is accepted for making track cleaning bearable. I prefer Jack Daniels in a short glass with three ice cubes. After I drink that, I clean the track. All is good...
If you think Jack Daniels does the trick, you should try Glenlivet.
Rich
Alton Junction
my thoughts also Javelina. i enjoy running trains the way i did in my Lionel days. i don't need them to do tricks. i also drive a 33 yr. pickup. regards, mike.
hobo9941What's wrong with alcohol? I thought it was accepted for track cleaning.
Sean
HO Scale CSX Modeler
Maybe 70% rubbing alcohol, which is 30% something else. Denatured alchol isn;t goign to leave a residue, it's going to evaporate nearly instantly. Goo Gone is more likely to leave some kind of film than any sort of alcohol (well now don't be washing down your track with good bourbon or something..)
"Goo Gone" works well. Alcohol isn't so good, when it dries it can actually inhibit electrical current. Sound equipped engines are particularly touchy when it comes to dirty track or wheels.
Nothing, but it may not be a strong enough solvent for really dirty track. Ont he club modular layout the CMX car runs with laquer thinner after each setup. But that layout has some modules 20 years old, with old Atlas track and it does not live in a climate controlled area between shows - heck some of the show venues might not be considered climate controlled. Plastic wheels are banned, and generally there aren't any problems after the initial cleaning, trains then run fine for an entire weekend show. The cleaning train actually has 3 cleaner cars, the CMX dispensing laquer thinner and then a pair of Centerline cars with Handi-wipes on the rollers to dry it. You do have to be careful, if you open the valve ont he CMX car so that the laquer thinner floods out, it will melt plastic ties, but just keepign the pad damp, it evaporates too fast to do any damage, and after the train passes, with those Centerline cars wiping things clean, the rail is completely dry. This is the only liquid that touches the track, we NEVER spread anything like clipper oil on the rails.
I agree. I fill my CMX car with lacquer thinner and have a beer while I run it around the track a few times. Seriously, I've used alcohol in the CMX car, and I find that lacquer thinner does a better job. It's also the more recommended solvent in the CMX instruction sheet.
This may be something which is decided by environmental factors. The stuff that makes your track dirty will vary from region to region, and from layout to layout. The ideal cleaner for you may depend on whether you have plastic wheeled rolling stock, whether you live in a city, whether there's a smoker in your household or whether you have a pet wildebeast.
Johnnny_reb Lets help out and stop all this bull.
Lets help out and stop all this bull.
So, do your part and start helping. But, I believe that the problem is already solved.
Johnnny_reb Once a word is spoken it can not be unspoken!
My Train Page My Photobucket Page My YouTube Channel
richhotrain ...As for your views on DCC, I bet you probably still drive a 1951 Chevy that you tune up yourself...
...As for your views on DCC, I bet you probably still drive a 1951 Chevy that you tune up yourself...
Hey, hey, hey... some of us have DCC in our train room and a carburetor in our garage! (Now, where's that little "insulted" smiley...)