froggy wrote:I set up a peice of flex track and connected the wires to the program track on the MRC Prodigy. I'm reading the back of the controller and I press buttons and give it an address but nothing else happens.
Tell me in simple language how to get the loco to move.
If I remeber the Prodigy correctly (I'll look when I get home) there is one output, but a switch that selects the programming mode, so ideally you'd add an external switch to disable the main when programming is selected. For now, just put one loco on the track, and don't sorry about that.
Select the programming position on the Prodigy, select an address with the dial, and press the Program address button. Hold it down. The light should flash, and the motor should give a tiny hiccup. You can only do this with the controller pluggeded in to the first port on the Prodigy.
Then move the program switch to the run position. You've already got the address selected, so you should be able to control the lights, and their direction, crack the throttle, and you are off!
Jeff But it's a dry heat!
froggy wrote:I put the wires on the screws for the program track and gave the first SD-35 an address.I switched the wires to the main track and it worked and it moves.I got another new decoder in the mail yesturday for another SD-35 that I have.I put it in and put it on the program track and then switched the wires to the main track.Nothing happens, zilch nada.I don't see where I did anything wrong.
I think he has the original Prodigy. So most of the questions don't apply!
But we need to know for sure.
Did the loco jump when you assigned the new address? Did you try running on address 3?
Try and reset your SD-35 ADD 4 to factory defaults, in case other values are causing greif. It will go back to ADD 3, test it. If issue still present, re-check your install.
Allways good to check a new decore before installing it.
If you have everything hooked up right from your Proidgy to the program track you might need a programming track booster. I couldn't program my BLI locos with my PA on the program track until I added one. DCC Specialities makes a good one and you can get it for about $50. I haven't had any probelms since I installed it. Also, MRC has a very good tutorial about programming with the Prodigy Advance. You can go to their website and download the "Tips and Tricks" article.
Short leads between your unit and the flex track (22 gauge) is perfect. it does not require high current to program or run at this time.
If you could program one loco, the booster may or may not help you. I have a PowerPax booster from Tony's Trains and it works with some and not at all with others. The locos nudge forward to acknowledge but refuse to be programmed. On those were it works, I remove the PowerPax booster and I can still program the ones that worked.
back to your situation.
On the program track, can you read the decoder at all ?. Does it nudge forward when you try to read it ? . It is suppose to nudge forward during programming because this is how the station knows the loco is responding.
You may have a dead decoder. Have you tried a reset to defaults to the decoder ?
Did you test the Loco on DC BEFORE installing the decoder?
What brand of Locos?
What brand and model Decoders?
When inputting address "0004", and "0003", are you actually putting in "0004" or just "04"? (by the way, "03" is the DEFAULT decoder address, and you may not have actually programmed the first one in the first place)
You said you had problems reassembling Loco #2 after installing the decoder...Did you (assuming you are using wired decoders) break a wire or solder joint? Try programming and testing BEFORE reassembling the body to the chassis.
You say you're swapping wires from FLEX program track to layout, How are you connecting to FLEX? aligator clips? soldered leads with a plug? feeder/joiners?
Sawyer Berry
Clemson University c/o 2018
Building a protolanced industrial park layout
froggy wrote:The wires I'm using just to program and run these are the pre wired connectors to give power to the flex track.This is probably not heavey enough.Someone mentioned getting a boost.
froggy wrote:The decoder does not have sound.The first one that is 003 does run on the track. I did not try out the second one on DC before I installed the decoder. Shouldn't the motor turn when I make contact with the track?This is not clear. Are you running on DC at this point or DCC ? It should run on DC only if your installed decoder is programmed to convert for DC. If the conversion is off, you get nothing out to the motor. If you are on DCC track with your installed decoder you must set and access the decoder add or it won't run the motor. On the program track it will not run anything, but acknowledge commands by a nudge to the motor. That's only if I got it programed right. Answered above I have another decoder coming for a Southern Pacific and I hope I install it with no problems. I will have a chance to work on this again tomorrow.Thanks so far for all the replies. I'm not thru with this yet.
Shouldn't the motor turn when I make contact with the track?
This is not clear. Are you running on DC at this point or DCC ? It should run on DC only if your installed decoder is programmed to convert for DC. If the conversion is off, you get nothing out to the motor. If you are on DCC track with your installed decoder you must set and access the decoder add or it won't run the motor. On the program track it will not run anything, but acknowledge commands by a nudge to the motor.
That's only if I got it programed right.
Answered above
I have another decoder coming for a Southern Pacific and I hope I install it with no problems. I will have a chance to work on this again tomorrow.Thanks so far for all the replies. I'm not thru with this yet.
Good luck
froggy wrote:I did not try out the second one on DC before I installed the decoder.
I would always first run a new locomotive on DC power and make certain it is operating 100% before I began a DCC installation.
Froggy,
We're all trying to help you, BUT YOU HAVE NOT ANSWERED SOME VERY BASIC QUESTIONS>
What Brand of Locos?
What Brand of Decoders?
What brand of DCC system?
Are your installations Plug-n-Play, or did you disassemble and solder wires for your connections?
Did you TRIPLE check to see if YOU broke something when forcing the second loco back together?
Do you have a friend with a DCC system/layout close by to go to and compare results?
Do you have a LHS that is DCC knowledgeable that might test the decoder for you if your not capable?
<edit>addition
Also, telling us that they are SD-35's without more information on BRAND NAME, or that you're going to try another in a Southern Pacific without the same information, tells us nothing. There are probly 15 different companies making SD-35's over the years, and SP used probly 15 different diesel engines throughout the years.
Are they Athearn or Atlas, or Bachmann, or Life-Like, or Tyco, or etc. etc. etc....Same goes for decoders, They are all different. So far you have not given enough SPECIFIC information for any of us to do more than GUESS at what may be your problem.
As for asking someone you don't know to let you send them 2 of your locos to get working...good luck ever seeing them again...GO to your local hobby shop, or service center if you're not a member of a club or have local friends with more experiance.
froggy wrote:it's an Atlas loco
The other Atlas SD-35 does work because the decoder was already installed in it.
I ordered the decoder from www.fifhobby.com It is plug and play and no need to solder any wires.
The DN 163AO is not an NMRA 8 pin at all.
http://www.digitrax.com/ftp/dn163a0.pdf
Put the factory light board back in and see if the loco runs on DC or your DCC throttle as address 0. It will be noisy (normal) but at least it will tell you if the engine runs.
froggy wrote:I am looking at the package for the decoder.It is a Digitrax and it's DN163A0.I did tonight loosen the screws again and took the decoder out and noticed one of the metal tabs is sticking up and doesn't hardly want to stay down.I put the decoder back on and made sure it is over the metal tabs.I now get a flicker of light after I programed it. But get no movement out of the wheels.
A tab on the loco...or...A tab on the decoder?