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1x4s vs 1x3s for benchwork

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  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: Rhode Island
  • 2,216 posts
Posted by davekelly on Friday, October 13, 2006 9:31 AM
 Driline wrote:

They are a little more expensive than bulk lumber, but they are straight and perfectly smooth. Don't buy the cheap stuff.

Here here!  I learned the hard way (several times!).  To get straight and smooth boards along with the massive reduction of frustration is worth the extra expense.  I have found that finding quality 1x3s can sometimes be very difficult and hense it is sometimes easier to get 1x4s.  The next layout (moving soon) will probably see at least some use of benchwork framing made from ripped plywood if I can't find good 1x3s.

 

If you ain't having fun, you're not doing it right and if you are having fun, don't let anyone tell you you're doing it wrong.
  • Member since
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  • From: Culpeper, Va
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Posted by IRONROOSTER on Friday, October 13, 2006 8:57 AM
Length of span is the determining factor.   1x4 will work up to 8 ft.  Nothing says they all have to be the same.  You could use 1x4 for long spans and 1x3 for short ones.  The real problem I have with 1x3's is the cheap ones are usually a mess: bowed, twisted, splintery, knots on the edges, etc.  I can usually find enough  usable 1x4 knotty pine pieces so that's what I go with.
Enjoy
Paul
If you're having fun, you're doing it the right way.
  • Member since
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  • From: Bedford, MA, USA
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Posted by MisterBeasley on Friday, October 13, 2006 8:55 AM

I use 1x4's for the outer framework, and 1x3's for the cross-rafters.  I put the 1x3's even with the bottom of the 1x4's, which gives me about an inch recess to protect the foam inside the outer frame.  My layout is 5x12 feet, supported on 2x3 legs.  It's also on casters.  A year and a half ago, it looked like this:

 

 

I don't use any plywood, just foam, so I would not put my weight on the layout table.  (Come to think of it, I don't know that I'd put my weight on the table even if I did have plywood on it.)  For a layout, though, this has been rock-solid.  I can easily push it around on a medium-pile carpet, and even non-glued figures remain standing.

It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse. 

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: Bettendorf Iowa
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Posted by Driline on Friday, October 13, 2006 8:47 AM

I switched to 1X3's instead of 1X4's on my latest layout. I used quality 1X3's from Lowes and Home Depot.They are a little more expensive than bulk lumber, but they are straight and perfectly smooth. Don't buy the cheap stuff.

I used the 1X3's becuase I built an around the room shelf layout and didn't want the extra weight.

Modeling the Davenport Rock Island & Northwestern 1995 in HO
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, October 13, 2006 8:41 AM
I have used both 1x3 and 1x4.  The outside edge of my benchwork is 1x4 and the stringers the run between the outside edge are 1x3.  It's very strong.

Trevor
  • Member since
    August 2002
  • From: Wake Forest, NC
  • 2,869 posts
Posted by SilverSpike on Friday, October 13, 2006 8:34 AM
The 1"X3" L-grider and joists are what I am using and have had great results. I like using this size because of the second level, it gives me a little more room for spacing the upper level above the bottom level. I have photos posted of my construction progress on my layout website, click the Piedmont link below my signature and follow the link to the Photos page.

Ryan Boudreaux
The Piedmont Division
Modeling The Southern Railway, Norfolk & Western & Norfolk Southern in HO during the merger era
Cajun Chef Ryan

  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Gahanna, Ohio
  • 1,987 posts
Posted by jbinkley60 on Thursday, October 12, 2006 10:23 PM

I use 1x3s and 1/2" plywood with no problems.  The longest span is 5' but I really shoot for 4' or less.  Here's a couple of pictures while under construction:

It is sturdy enough for me to climb on with no worries and it is on rollers:

 

 

Engineer Jeff NS Nut
Visit my layout at: http://www.thebinks.com/trains/

  • Member since
    March 2002
  • From: Milwaukee WI (Fox Point)
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Posted by dknelson on Thursday, October 12, 2006 10:02 PM

I have used both (and had problems with quality with both) and my benchwork is the David Barrow "domino" approach so no table is longer then 4 feet.  It does seem that 1x3s are of furring strip quality in many cases with slightly rounded edges and thus a bit harder to work with in terms of clean flat edges with pine that really holds screws and nails.   I think it is more a function of the quality of the pine than whether it is 1x3 or 1x4, at least for my purposes.   If I was dealing with 8 or 12 foot lengths maybe 1x4 would have advantages.  

Dave Nelson 

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    April 2003
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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, October 12, 2006 9:22 PM
You should be ok with the 1x3 and 1/2" of plywood.  Its all up to you dude your the BOSS
  • Member since
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  • From: Holland MI
  • 624 posts
1x4s vs 1x3s for benchwork
Posted by CSXFan on Thursday, October 12, 2006 8:34 PM

I was planning on using 1x4 pine for most of the benchwork but I was wondering if I could use 1x3s without sacrificing too much support or stability. Will it make much difference in weight? Most of the scenery will be made of foam insulation and other lightweight materials. I want to be able to lean on the layout without anything breaking or bending. Here is a diagram of the benchwork.

A sheet of 1/2" plywood will cover the whole frame. Thanks in advance for any help. 

If you're not living on the edge, you're taking up too much space...Wink

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