Benchwork SNAP-CRACK: The sound you hate to hear-How do I repair this?

[DigitalGriffin]

I was putting together some new benchwork that I had been working on over the past month.  Well it was time to glue down the blue foamboard and I discovered it was a little warped.  So I decided to apply a little of my weight to it.

Then I felt and heard it, "SNAP-CRACK."   I stood back and much to my dismay the outside main outside 1x4 beam had split along a knot.  Now the table is sagging severely, and the ends of the plywood are bending upwards.  *ACK*

I can't really replace it, as everything is glued and screwed tightly together.

Is my best option to prop it up, then brace it between the runners with another 1x4?

 

[spectratone]

without looking at it,  do you have room for a 2x2 inch piece of angle steel to carrage bolt on from the back side? What ever your span is between the framework? Go to a steel supply house and they will even cut it for you. or 3x3.
glenn

[TomDiehl]

Another way to repair it is to use a splice block of the same material (without large knots), long enough to span across it and between the cross pieces. Just remember to run the screws in from the front.

BTW, for future reference, that's not a good way to get rid of a warp in the wood.

[ARTHILL]

If you can get a 1x4 to cover the cracked area and extend at least 18" on either side of the knot, I would prop it all up straight, clamp the boards on to make sure all was straight and put 4 - 1 1/2" drywall screws in each side of the brace. That will hold layout weight, If it must hold your weight as well, I would ad a leg at that spot. If you can't get a full 18", get what you can.

[selector]

Carpenter's glue, if you can force the split to close 98% (presses, clamps, swearing,  whatever it takes) will result in a bond even stronger than the original wood...believe it or not.  If it makes you feel more secure, put a long patch of the same planking covering the split, as suggested above, behind where it will not show.  It will add weight, though, and not a lot of security.

Another option is to drive 3" wood screws up from the bottom edge, through the split, and into the topmost part of this planking.  You'll still need to get the gap closed, though, or use a progressive closure from one end of the split working towards the other, and using washers to prevent the screw from merely burying itself into the planking without doing what you want them to do.

 

You'll have to experiment with methods to get the split essentially collapsed again; that will be the big challenge.  Repairing it thereafter is not so bad.

[bogp40]

I was putting together some new benchwork that I had been working on over the past month.  Well it was time to glue down the blue foamboard and I discovered it was a little warped.  So I decided to apply a little of my weight to it.

Then I felt and heard it, "SNAP-CRACK."   I stood back and much to my dismay the outside main outside 1x4 beam had split along a knot.  Now the table is sagging severely, and the ends of the plywood are bending upwards.  *ACK*

I can't really replace it, as everything is glued and screwed tightly together.

Is my best option to prop it up, then brace it between the runners with another 1x4?

 

The easiest repair is to add an additional length of 1x4 across the break (this would be on the exterior of the frame). If your facia design won't incorporate any added 3/4" material, I would recommend adding the 1x4 behind(inside). I realize that the break may be close to a joist, but if you are good w/ a sawzall, scribe a 3/4 line w/ a scrap 3/4, remove any nails/ screws and carefully cut the member or members.  Slide the reinforcement1x4 into place for dry fit. Once happy with fit and proper clearance, glue and screw in place. Hope this helps.

[E-L man tom]

Let that be a lesson to you - - DO NOT glue anything that you do not have to glue, even track. The only thing that I glue is the flange and web on my L-girders. The screws supply enough strength for everything. I use just plain 'ol drywall screws as they are cheap and you can buy a box of 100 of 'em for 4-5 dollars. Not glueing things does several things:  makes it easier to change the layout around; makes moving to a different location easier and; when you want to build a new layuout you have re-useable parts.

[cmrproducts]

You know the EASY way to fix this is JUST put a leg under the crack!

WHY make it harder than it needs to be!

Then put a piece of 1 x 4 along the edge where the crack is and drywall screw it to the benchwork. Make it fairly long to be able to screw into the solid part of the benchwork

The leg will hold the layout up for ever - and besides the legs should not be more than 4 feet apart and this problem would not happen.

Take it from one that has been there many years ago and soon learned.

BOB H - Clarion, PA

[DigitalGriffin]

Thanks guys.

I'll let you know how it goes this weekend when I try to repair it.

BTW: I was trying to flatten the foam boad, not the wood.  The benchwork was perfectly flat on the bubble.

[selector]

I would do that if there were no reasonable legless options, Bob.  Apparently our friend didn't want a leg there in the first place, so it should only be added as a last resort.   I agree that it would be effective and easy, but there are perhaps other considerations...?

[Texas Zepher]

I can't really replace it, as everything is glued and screwed tightly together.

Actually, I don't understand.  If it is only screwed together it should be easy to replace?  Nails and glue are what make things like this hard.  Actually that is why I stopped gluing things.

But, yes I think your best option is as you stated.   Use another 1x4 that is the same length as the original, not just a splice over the crack.

[sansouci]

Before screwing and gluing, I would cut out the knot area so that the "Dutchman" or reinforcing piece can fit snugly against the broken 1x4 and you can align it properly with the clamps.

Best of luck

[larak]

All of the above.

Dutchman the knot, full length 1 x 4 across the back, a bit of gorilla glue in the crack and between the brace and broken piece.  Yellow carpenter's glue is fine too.  Screws will help too but might be overkill. Screws without glue will not hold as rigidly over time. Dry fit everything first and clamp well.

You'll be able to sit on the bench.

Good luck.

[Anonymous]

A splice will do it; as I related in another post on a subject related to type of wood to use, about 27 years ago this happened to me only my L-girder gave way at a knot location at two o'clock in the morning - and my layout was complete - or almost complete anyway.

What I did was I pushed a table under the layout and, using it as a flat surface, I cranked the layout into a horizontal position using a couple of hydraulic jacks and a couple of 2 by pieces for bracing; I then cut out the knot because it was interfering with the splice's flushness against the broken piece;  I clamped the splice to the errant piece and then drilled some 1/8 inch holes all the way through from front to back; this was so that my epoxy would ooze into these holes and grip very firmly; for good measure, I "overkilled" everything with about six screws.  That was, incidently,  my last HO layout and it got tore down two years later when I switched to N-Scale.

Keep us posted on how you come out.