The mind is like a parachute. It works better when it's open. www.stremy.net
Before screwing and gluing, I would cut out the knot area so that the "Dutchman" or reinforcing piece can fit snugly against the broken 1x4 and you can align it properly with the clamps.
Best of luck
DigitalGriffin wrote:I can't really replace it, as everything is glued and screwed tightly together.
But, yes I think your best option is as you stated. Use another 1x4 that is the same length as the original, not just a splice over the crack.
Thanks guys.
I'll let you know how it goes this weekend when I try to repair it.
BTW: I was trying to flatten the foam boad, not the wood. The benchwork was perfectly flat on the bubble.
Don - Specializing in layout DC->DCC conversions
Modeling C&O transition era and steel industries There's Nothing Like Big Steam!
DigitalGriffin wrote: I was putting together some new benchwork that I had been working on over the past month. Well it was time to glue down the blue foamboard and I discovered it was a little warped. So I decided to apply a little of my weight to it. Then I felt and heard it, "SNAP-CRACK." I stood back and much to my dismay the outside main outside 1x4 beam had split along a knot. Now the table is sagging severely, and the ends of the plywood are bending upwards. *ACK* I can't really replace it, as everything is glued and screwed tightly together. Is my best option to prop it up, then brace it between the runners with another 1x4?
I was putting together some new benchwork that I had been working on over the past month. Well it was time to glue down the blue foamboard and I discovered it was a little warped. So I decided to apply a little of my weight to it.
Then I felt and heard it, "SNAP-CRACK." I stood back and much to my dismay the outside main outside 1x4 beam had split along a knot. Now the table is sagging severely, and the ends of the plywood are bending upwards. *ACK*
I can't really replace it, as everything is glued and screwed tightly together.
Is my best option to prop it up, then brace it between the runners with another 1x4?
The easiest repair is to add an additional length of 1x4 across the break (this would be on the exterior of the frame). If your facia design won't incorporate any added 3/4" material, I would recommend adding the 1x4 behind(inside). I realize that the break may be close to a joist, but if you are good w/ a sawzall, scribe a 3/4 line w/ a scrap 3/4, remove any nails/ screws and carefully cut the member or members. Slide the reinforcement1x4 into place for dry fit. Once happy with fit and proper clearance, glue and screw in place. Hope this helps.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
Carpenter's glue, if you can force the split to close 98% (presses, clamps, swearing, whatever it takes) will result in a bond even stronger than the original wood...believe it or not. If it makes you feel more secure, put a long patch of the same planking covering the split, as suggested above, behind where it will not show. It will add weight, though, and not a lot of security.
Another option is to drive 3" wood screws up from the bottom edge, through the split, and into the topmost part of this planking. You'll still need to get the gap closed, though, or use a progressive closure from one end of the split working towards the other, and using washers to prevent the screw from merely burying itself into the planking without doing what you want them to do.
You'll have to experiment with methods to get the split essentially collapsed again; that will be the big challenge. Repairing it thereafter is not so bad.
Another way to repair it is to use a splice block of the same material (without large knots), long enough to span across it and between the cross pieces. Just remember to run the screws in from the front.
BTW, for future reference, that's not a good way to get rid of a warp in the wood.