Uncoupling - Magnetic or Manual?

[Anonymous]

I am in the late planning stage of my new HO layout and I am wondering about magnetic couplers. I caught a blurb from someone who said they do not work and is ripping them out. I have never tried magnetic couplers but i like the idea for automation as I am trying to build a highly automated layout (single operator for now). Is Kadee the only magnetic coupler manufacturer? Does McHenry make magnetic couplers? If I don't go magnetic, how do some of you manually operate uncoupling? Seems like it would be very cumbersome depending on your layout. All thoughts welcome.

[rrinker]

All of the Kadee 'clones' are magnetic, although in my experience none of them works as well as real Kadees. McHenry is probably the closest.
Even so, I tend not to use magnets to uncouple. A tiny screwdriver, or better yet, a simple bamboo skewer (lifetime supply, a buck or two at the grocery store) works as a tool you can stick between the knuckles and open the couplers. That way you can put a car anywhere you want any time you want. Of course this only works if you can walk along with your train, on a large table layout you wouldn't be able to reach all tracks (but that's another issue on desig and planning...)


--Randy

[Walter Clot]

I use both. I have some magnets strategicly placed but some times I need to uncouple in a place and can't use the delayed action. ie on my main line.
The cheapest thing I have found is to go to McDonalds and order a cup of coffee. Even if you like in black and no sugar (or sweetner), get one of their stiring sticks. Take it home and trim the "paddle" to a point. It works well, if you have trimmed to the correct angle. They are also good for other things, but I've not yet worked those ideas out.
Walter in Columbia, TN

[Anonymous]

I've found they work pretty well. Not 100%, but high 90's in my experience.

Even though I think they work "good enough", I generally prefer to use the skewer method myself. No matter how much I think I'm "planning" thoroughly, I always find myself needing one where I didn't put one, not using one I did put, etc... The limiting factor, for me, is that you have to deal with fixed locations.

So for me, the low-tech solution is better because I can uncouple anywhere, any time.

Now the day they get effective "remote uncoupling couplers" going, I'll be the first to start converting all my locos and rolling stock. I'd love being able to grab my throttle, select car number ____ and the punch "uncouple rear", for example.

[Anonymous]

DCC uncoupling! Now that's a great idea! In the meantime, I really appreciate all your input. I get the feeling that the work required, planning, etc, probably just isn't worth it in the end. It seems pretty simple to just use the bamboo skewer method and perhaps a couple of strategically placed magnets (there may be a spot or two on my new layout tough to reach). That's the plan.

[MisterBeasley]

Somebody does make a DCC-controlled engine with a coupler that can be uncoupled using a function code. I read somewhere here that they don't use the "knuckle" opening, but rather tilt the whole coupler up until it disengages. As I recall, this was a rather large engine, a road diesel rather than a switcher.

I've got several between-the-rails Kadee magnets installed now, and I'll put more in as things progress. I just bought an electromagnet uncoupler to use on the main line where I don't want to uncouple just because the train happened to stop there. It may be a few weeks before I get around to installing that one.

[jecorbett]

I'm guessing you are really asking about uncoupling since coupling usually is not an issue. Magnetic uncouplers work well but unfortunately, sometimes they work too well. They uncouple a car when you don't want it too, like when a long train is passing over the uncoupler and hesitates ever so slightly, creating just enough slack to uncouple the car. Theoretically this shouldn't happen but unless your couplers are set exactly right, they will either uncouple when you don't want or won't uncouple when you do. Kadee's under-the-track uncoupler uses an intensifier plate, a sheet of metal under the magnet. If you leave it on, the uncoupler is too strong resulting in unwanted uncoupling. If you leave it off, the uncoupler is too weak and won't get the job done. Kadee announced several months ago that they were coming out with an under the track uncoupler that will operate electroncially. I haven't seen it yet. I have decided not to use the old style uncouplers on mainline tracks. I use the uncouplers in yards and industrial spurs only. For mainline uncoupling, I got a Kadee uncoupling wand. It is just a plastic stick with a pointed end. You slip it between the couplers and give it a little twist and the cars uncouple. It took me a while to get the hang of it and uncouple without derailing the cars, but now I've got it down so it is pretty reliable. I've heard of people using bamboo skewers the same way. Rix also makes a hand held. It looks like a tuning fork with magnets on either side. You put it between the cars with the magnets surrounding the couplers and it works just like the uncoupling ramps.

[jkroft]

what about in n scale? how well do the micro trains magnematics work?

[scubaterry]

I bought 20 of the under track magnets from MicroMark. They are easiest put in as you lay the track but once in and the track down you can ballast over them so they don't show. I have them in my yards and am very happy with them. I like to run trains sitting down and these magnets allow that to happen.
Terry[8D]

[Janafam]

I am satisfied with the magnets. If you go this route, plan where you want to place the magnets so the uncoupling if normal in operation and not a frustration requiring manual override. Then when you ballast over, use whatever technique makes sense to you to mark them. You cannot uncouple automatically if you don't know where the magnet was buried.

[tomikawaTT]

Whether you go for manual or magnetic uncoupling, it's a good idea to learn the 'skewer' method, for those occasions when something has to be uncoupled where there are no magnets present. Using the 0-5-0 for uncoupling can have bad effects on weathered cars and nearby structures. Putting a skewer in a little holder at each fixed control station (or at each modeled station if you're all-handheld) will assure that one will be available when needed.

[jkroft]

Do the magnetic couplers of Atlas and Kato locos work in the same manner as the micro-trains? Why are there coupler conversion kits for some of these manufacturer's locos?

[Anonymous]

See "Workin' on the Railroad" article by Lionel Strang in the
October 1998 issue of MR. Lionel shows how to make a tool
for uncoupling. The tool pulls the coupler apart by the "Air hoses"
[the steel trip pins]. TOMAS in Durango

[rudywa]

I have Atlas and Micro Trains Magnetic Couplers, as well as Rapidos, all N scale, the magnetics are touchy if you do not set the height at the top of the rails with the between the rails versions I purchased, but if done right, I've had no problems. I use rix pix for the rapidos, sorry, just couldn't bring myself to using bamboo skewers on my prize trains.

Thanks

[Binderchk]

Below is a link for a DCC coupler car
http://dccuncoupling.com/

[rrinker]

Interesting...way to go broke, that is LOL. If you check *** Bronson's web site http://www.rr-cirkits.com he has one that fits entirely inside a switcher loco. I saw it in operation at the Timonium show last year, pretty neat. Unless you fit something like this to every car you'll still have limitations though. maybe someday - too expensive to retrofit every car right now. Maybe someday there will be an actuator small enough to look exactly like a brake cylinder - then the entire brake system could be made to function similar to the prototype.

--Randy

[Anonymous]

Another possibility: the new Sergent couplers. See:

http://user.icx.net/~sergent/EC87.htm

MUCH more proto-looking, and operating - with a working knuckle.

I have not seen or used them myself, but I do want to try them.

No doubt somebody will develop a DCC uncoupling mechanism for this too.

Best...
Chris Stirling

[Anonymous]

DCC Development Group has a kit to give a SW switcher decoder controlled couplers ----up and down movement. Here it is at Tony's ... http://www.tonystrains.com/products/ddc.htm

I use magnetic KD's on my little layout, as I like the hands off approach. Just like trackwork, etc ...... mount the magnets and the couplers perfectly, and you will be happy. I am.

Greg Ross

[Anonymous]

I've use a round toothpick for over 30 years. Paint'em flat black, glue a half-inch length of 1/8 inch plastic tube upright at each end of your siding, and stick the toothpick in.
it looks like a pole, but easially pulls out and allows you to "twirl" between finger and
thump, with the end inserted in the couplers. works every time!

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by jecorbett

I'm guessing you are really asking about uncoupling since coupling usually is not an issue. Magnetic uncouplers work well but unfortunately, sometimes they work too well. They uncouple a car when you don't want it too, like when a long train is passing over the uncoupler and hesitates ever so slightly, creating just enough slack to uncouple the car. Theoretically this shouldn't happen but unless your couplers are set exactly right, they will either uncouple when you don't want or won't uncouple when you do. Kadee's under-the-track uncoupler uses an intensifier plate, a sheet of metal under the magnet. If you leave it on, the uncoupler is too strong resulting in unwanted uncoupling. If you leave it off, the uncoupler is too weak and won't get the job done. Kadee announced several months ago that they were coming out with an under the track uncoupler that will operate electroncially. I haven't seen it yet. I have decided not to use the old style uncouplers on mainline tracks. I use the uncouplers in yards and industrial spurs only. For mainline uncoupling, I got a Kadee uncoupling wand. It is just a plastic stick with a pointed end. You slip it between the couplers and give it a little twist and the cars uncouple. It took me a while to get the hang of it and uncouple without derailing the cars, but now I've got it down so it is pretty reliable. I've heard of people using bamboo skewers the same way. Rix also makes a hand held. It looks like a tuning fork with magnets on either side. You put it between the cars with the magnets surrounding the couplers and it works just like the uncoupling ramps.

[Anonymous]

I have used half under the track magnets with the intensifier plate for 20+ years with great results. Also, I only use Kadee couplers. All other couplers get replaced before the car goes on the layout.

The trick is how to install a Kadee #5 or equivalent. The spring needs to be have the two spring leaves bent inward slightly to add additional centering. I also apply #6 pencil lead to the spring, cover plate (inside) and both sides of the coupler shank.

For mounting in Athearn cars, the top of the spring posts and back plate need to be cut down slight so the spring is not bent by the Athearn metal cover. In this case, apply pencil lead to the inside of the Athearn cover.

I know hand uncoupling is popular, but too many of the end details of a car are vunerable to the various uncoupling tools that people use.

[earlfrye]

Here is a DCC Ho and N-scale uncoupling car.
http://www.globaltrainsupply.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ONLYHO2&Category_Code=DCCP

[Anonymous]

That is so cool! The future is now. There's the ultimate answer. I'm going to have to check that out when my layout is done. Thanx earl for that one.

[jsotto]

I like the railfan viewpoint of watching switching operations without the frequent interruption of out-of-scale hands and arms reaching in to throw telephone poles at the couplers. To me, this is the equivalent of walking in front of a photo line. When you have a nice panorama of 5 engines or so moving around in a yard, one swizzle-switcher spoils the scene for everyone.

Magnetic uncoupling is also desirable for passenger cars with diaphrams, catenary-equipped trackage, "warehouse canyon" switching environments, spotting inside buildings or under structures, working the upper deck of a double deck railroad, or near prized structures, scenery or equipment where the owner doesn't want to risk stray elbows bumping fragile detail.

Certainly, I have many friends whose layouts I enjoy where we uncouple manually. We all make choices on where we want to spend our hobby time and putting magnets under track and adjusting couplers so they work reliably may not be your priority. It happens to be one of mine and I hope we can be friends anyway!

The inexpensive way to "turn off" under-track permanent magnets is to put them in a covered trench wide enough to allow a simple wire mechanism to slide the magnet sideways 3/8" so it will no longer uncouple. I first saw this principle on Dan Holbrook's layout more than a decade ago. It's much cheaper and less visibly and audibly obnoxious than electro-magnetic uncouplers. 40% of my magnets are moveable, including all on the mainlines. One of my passing sidings with numerous industry spurs along it has 5 magnets. When readying to depart with a 25-car train, the magnets are "turned off" to couple everything up and depart with no problem.

Jeff Otto

[jacko73]

For my HO layout, I used the strong intensified KD magnets, but I cut out a square under the track and glued it to that. Then, I put a small hinge on it and attached it back under the layout below the cutout under the track. Then, I used string to raise the block up or down... unfortunately, I know my description is less than detailed, but it worked in that the magnet was lowered out of the way when not needed and raised in place when needed. Also, for mechanically uncoupling cars, I used a piece of hollow tubing (K&B? I forget...), in which I smashed about 1/4 inch flat and sharpened into a coupler pick. Then, I epoxied about a 5 inch piece of fore-said piping to a small flashlight so I could see what I was doing in that small space between cars. The flashlight had replaceable batteries, of course. I don't know if this will help anyone, and on my next layout, I'm going to try the electric KD uncouplers. Anyone have any experience with them? Thanks!

[Anonymous]

Hey je, I fixed the title to uncoupling. LOL! With all the micro motors and modern electronics, can we really be that far away from some sort of 'affordable' auto uncoupling? And as Randy said, prototype brakes, etc? I am not new to Model RR but this has always been one of my pet peeves. I hate uncoupling and yet it seems little has been done over the past ten years to really improve it. We have DCC, tons of great scenery products, locos are better than ever, and yet Kadee magnets are still the only real choice for auto uncoupling as it was 12 years ago. Has anyone devised their own auto uncoupling system?

[Texas Zepher]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Surfstud31
Has anyone devised their own auto uncoupling system?

The prototype haven't even come up with that one yet. The idea of using a function of a DCC decoder is good but only so far as the locomotive goes. Even working the yard I would say less than 25% of the "uncoupling" is done directly from the locomotive. It is usually the 3rd car from the caboose, or the 5th car from the locomotive or something like that. So until one is ready to put DCC decoders in every single car it isn't as cool as it seems at first.

[Anonymous]

Tex, why not use a stationary mutli-accessory decoder (like those for turnout switches) that communicate with the cars directly thru the track via DCC? The cars would have to have metal wheelsets and tiny switch motors in them connected to the couplers but it seems like it could work. Would you still need to put a decoder in each car? And even if you do, is it any crazier than magnets and bamboo stix?

As far as the protoype railroads are concerned, when they want to send over their workers to uncouple my cars, great. In the meantime, I am going to continue my quest to find a better way.

[train18393]

I didn't read verbatem all the responses, so I appologize if I am repeating a previous thought. As many years as I have been around railroads, and with most of my relatives working on the C&O, P-company and the NYC I do not recollect them ever positioning the cars over the big magnets in the track to get their cars to uncouple. They used the "cut levers" on the ends of the cars. On my model railroad I use the manual method of bamboo skewers to be more like the prototype. I have all Kadee couplers as they work better. I did install several different brands of a Kadee compatable couplers, but they have all been replaced. If you only manually uncouple you can cut the "air hose" off the Kadee and install prototypical air hose. Of course if you ever plan on visiting others with your rolling stock or using magnetic coupling in the future you probably will not want to cut of the Kadee air hose, as that is the magnetic part

Paul
Dayton and Mad River RR

[ss122]

Interesting idea, making under the track magnets slide horizontally to disable them. One question, on a ballasted mainline, isn't the magnet too wide for it to fit between the shoulders of the ballast profile just under the ties, and have room to slide? I'm planning a layout, was planning to use the hinged uncoupler idea, but mechanically the sliding idea sounds simpler, if there is room. Any thoughts appreciated. Thanks, Ken