Uncoupling - Magnetic or Manual?

[Walter Clot]

I use both.  You can get a variety of magnets from the Wal-Mart craft section.  Experiment and see what works for you.  I usually stack the strip magnets two of three deep.  The disc magnets need to be two side by side.  I also cut McDonald's coffee stir sticks into a point for manual uncoupling. 

[larak]

Chuck,

www.wondermagnets.com.

Personally, I like them.  There are previous posts about these. Hopefully the search engine will let you find them.

Karl 

[corksean12]

Im currently modelling a british railway with european style couplers so this may not be applicable to knuckle couplers but I use a method that is a bit of both of the methods mentioned. I found that a magnetic dart from a childrens dart game works well. I just have to stick it between cars a little bit so details arent damaged as easily.

[Leaky Valley]

Ken,

Do you remember where you read the post on using the cylindrical magnets, or has anyone else tried them?  Sounds like a good and cheap solution, if they work, for an 11 track yard where none of the 0-5-0 methods have been very satisfactory.  I use code 70 in the yard  and would have to recess the Kadee magnets.  I contacted them and they said magnets for code 83 and 70 were presently on the back burner.  I guess operating with their uncouplers isn't as big a priority for them as making freight cars.

A friend of mine, Bob Warren, had cut Kadee uncouplers into thirds and made them look like part of a walkway across his code 100 yard, and they functioned very effectively.  Kadee also agreed they "could' make their uncoupling ramps shorter and they would work.

Chuck

http://members.cox.net/mylvrr

 

[ShadowNix]

Magnetic is the way to go! 2 yrs ago I switched/started using Kadee's (after a 20 year hiatus in the hobby) I love the magnetic decouplers (I use Kadee's brand, under the track because I use code 83).  I have a few of the electric type too... but have yet to find a place to put them, since I am uncoupling in the yard, staging or sidings.  Oh, if you do need to uncouple, there is a Rix too that has magnets that works OK.  And I agree with others... use Kadee only.  Get rid of the plastic el' cheapo others...they don't work very reliably with the uncouplers!

 

Brian

[CascadeBob]

What is the best way to manually uncouple N scale Kadee magnetic couplers?  Will the bamboo skewer method work or do you need something smaller?  If the skewer method works, how do you manipulate the skewer to get the couplers to uncouple?  I've always used the between-the- rails permanent magnets for uncoupling.

Bob

[markpierce]

I never bother with magnetics for uncoupling for the reasons given above.  Also, you can never couple over a permanent magnetic uncoupler (unless it is movable horizontally or vertically), and the visible "between-the-rails" types are unsightly.  I would only use them where manual uncoupling is impossible.  But that's just me.

Mark

[tomikawaTT]

If you have steel axles, the uncoupling magnet may attract them enough to create 'uncoupling slack' in unwanted places  - as in between cars you would like to remain coupled.  (In my case, a large percentage of my freight cars are steel - the whole car, not just the axles.)

The (draconian) solution is to eliminate all fixed magnets.  I have been experimenting with mounting under-track magnets on hinges, controllable from the fascia or a control panel (by switch machine, which will probably require some form of counterweighting...)  The alternative, using electromagnets, can get expensive rather quickly!

Some of my operations require me to be able to uncouple in inaccessible places, so the skewer method isn't always a practical solution.

Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)

[ss122]

Eariler this week I read a post that described using littes cylindrical magnets, like 1/8" or less in diameter, pushed into the roadbed, just inside the rails, to uncouple cars. The maker was  kjmagnetics  http://www.kjmagnetics.com/products.asp?cat=13 . He recommended model 24. I haven't tried them, but the price sure is right, you could put them all over the place. Ken

[modelrrern]

scubaterry,

I recently purchased the MicroMark magnets and have them set up on a test track before installing them in my layout. The problem I have with them is that they will open the coupler even with a small load on them going forward. I am using the #5 Kaydee couplers and have their alignment gage. I have played around with putting masking tape between the magnets and rail but that does not help either. Have you had any of those problems? Any suggestions on how to fix it would be appreciated. I want to stay with remote opperations so I would really like to make it work!

[Anonymous]

I have a few magnetic uncoupling magnets on spurs. i only use them where my locomotive wont pass over them because the magnet makes my DCC loco go loco. it honks, and whistles when it passes over a magnet!

[tomnugler]

QUOTE: Originally posted by jkeaton

Why use a permanent magnet for uncoupling, with all the hazards of unintended uncoupling, when electromagnetic uncoupling - turning them only only when needed - is so much neater? For a simple to make, much cheaper than Kadee, and less obtrusive electromagnetic uncoupler, look here:
http://www.xclent.freeuk.com/p87/magnets.htm


Jim
Ottawa

Interesting link. I have to say that in the almost 40 some years I have been a model railroader I have used Kadees exclusivly and have never had a problem that wasn't related to adjustment or poor installation. I prefer the under track permags for the uncouplers.
As far as unwanted uncoupling goes, once again, the warning about steel axles should not go unheeded.
One thing I have also found is that the undertrack magnets can be cut in half and still work properly. Putting these on level sidings where you are not using the delay feature extensivly can help with the problem of pulling cars with steel axles towards the magnets and cuts your installation cost in half. I did this when I was in school to save cash and I think that now that I have gone back into HOn3 that I will be doing it again. This time, however, because of the lighter weight of the cars.
Tom.

[fwright]

Jim

Thanks for the post and link. I had not seen any electromagnet setups that both worked reliably and didn't have some kind of pole material above the ties. I have seen similar done with rare earth magnets, but the rare earth magnets still have the disadvantage of "always on".

yours in uncoupling
Fred W

[jkeaton]

Why use a permanent magnet for uncoupling, with all the hazards of unintended uncoupling, when electromagnetic uncoupling - turning them only only when needed - is so much neater? For a simple to make, much cheaper than Kadee, and less obtrusive electromagnetic uncoupler, look here:
http://www.xclent.freeuk.com/p87/magnets.htm

Our British friends are often ahead of us in these home-designed things. And, having posted that, I have to say that I'm a fan of the bamboo skewer system too, for cars and tracks that I can reach - but there are (or will be) spots in the mountains and staging yards that I can't reach.

Jim
Ottawa

[jsotto]

Hi ss122,

Trues, a sliding magnet will not fit within a normal ballast profile. An extended shoulder of about 1/4" x 1" is needed to allow clearance, which I place to the backside away from the aisle to be a little less noticeable. I use spline roadbed, so the classic trap-door method is not practical for me. I consider the "bulge" a small price to pay for the economy and convenience of a sliding permanent magnet. The Bachmann/McHenry magnets are a little narrower than the Kadee 308, so that helps a little, too.

Jeff

[ss122]

Interesting idea, making under the track magnets slide horizontally to disable them. One question, on a ballasted mainline, isn't the magnet too wide for it to fit between the shoulders of the ballast profile just under the ties, and have room to slide? I'm planning a layout, was planning to use the hinged uncoupler idea, but mechanically the sliding idea sounds simpler, if there is room. Any thoughts appreciated. Thanks, Ken

[train18393]

I didn't read verbatem all the responses, so I appologize if I am repeating a previous thought. As many years as I have been around railroads, and with most of my relatives working on the C&O, P-company and the NYC I do not recollect them ever positioning the cars over the big magnets in the track to get their cars to uncouple. They used the "cut levers" on the ends of the cars. On my model railroad I use the manual method of bamboo skewers to be more like the prototype. I have all Kadee couplers as they work better. I did install several different brands of a Kadee compatable couplers, but they have all been replaced. If you only manually uncouple you can cut the "air hose" off the Kadee and install prototypical air hose. Of course if you ever plan on visiting others with your rolling stock or using magnetic coupling in the future you probably will not want to cut of the Kadee air hose, as that is the magnetic part

Paul
Dayton and Mad River RR

[Anonymous]

Tex, why not use a stationary mutli-accessory decoder (like those for turnout switches) that communicate with the cars directly thru the track via DCC? The cars would have to have metal wheelsets and tiny switch motors in them connected to the couplers but it seems like it could work. Would you still need to put a decoder in each car? And even if you do, is it any crazier than magnets and bamboo stix?

As far as the protoype railroads are concerned, when they want to send over their workers to uncouple my cars, great. In the meantime, I am going to continue my quest to find a better way.

[Texas Zepher]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Surfstud31
Has anyone devised their own auto uncoupling system?

The prototype haven't even come up with that one yet. The idea of using a function of a DCC decoder is good but only so far as the locomotive goes. Even working the yard I would say less than 25% of the "uncoupling" is done directly from the locomotive. It is usually the 3rd car from the caboose, or the 5th car from the locomotive or something like that. So until one is ready to put DCC decoders in every single car it isn't as cool as it seems at first.

[Anonymous]

Hey je, I fixed the title to uncoupling. LOL! With all the micro motors and modern electronics, can we really be that far away from some sort of 'affordable' auto uncoupling? And as Randy said, prototype brakes, etc? I am not new to Model RR but this has always been one of my pet peeves. I hate uncoupling and yet it seems little has been done over the past ten years to really improve it. We have DCC, tons of great scenery products, locos are better than ever, and yet Kadee magnets are still the only real choice for auto uncoupling as it was 12 years ago. Has anyone devised their own auto uncoupling system?

[jacko73]

For my HO layout, I used the strong intensified KD magnets, but I cut out a square under the track and glued it to that. Then, I put a small hinge on it and attached it back under the layout below the cutout under the track. Then, I used string to raise the block up or down... unfortunately, I know my description is less than detailed, but it worked in that the magnet was lowered out of the way when not needed and raised in place when needed. Also, for mechanically uncoupling cars, I used a piece of hollow tubing (K&B? I forget...), in which I smashed about 1/4 inch flat and sharpened into a coupler pick. Then, I epoxied about a 5 inch piece of fore-said piping to a small flashlight so I could see what I was doing in that small space between cars. The flashlight had replaceable batteries, of course. I don't know if this will help anyone, and on my next layout, I'm going to try the electric KD uncouplers. Anyone have any experience with them? Thanks!

[jsotto]

I like the railfan viewpoint of watching switching operations without the frequent interruption of out-of-scale hands and arms reaching in to throw telephone poles at the couplers. To me, this is the equivalent of walking in front of a photo line. When you have a nice panorama of 5 engines or so moving around in a yard, one swizzle-switcher spoils the scene for everyone.

Magnetic uncoupling is also desirable for passenger cars with diaphrams, catenary-equipped trackage, "warehouse canyon" switching environments, spotting inside buildings or under structures, working the upper deck of a double deck railroad, or near prized structures, scenery or equipment where the owner doesn't want to risk stray elbows bumping fragile detail.

Certainly, I have many friends whose layouts I enjoy where we uncouple manually. We all make choices on where we want to spend our hobby time and putting magnets under track and adjusting couplers so they work reliably may not be your priority. It happens to be one of mine and I hope we can be friends anyway!

The inexpensive way to "turn off" under-track permanent magnets is to put them in a covered trench wide enough to allow a simple wire mechanism to slide the magnet sideways 3/8" so it will no longer uncouple. I first saw this principle on Dan Holbrook's layout more than a decade ago. It's much cheaper and less visibly and audibly obnoxious than electro-magnetic uncouplers. 40% of my magnets are moveable, including all on the mainlines. One of my passing sidings with numerous industry spurs along it has 5 magnets. When readying to depart with a 25-car train, the magnets are "turned off" to couple everything up and depart with no problem.

Jeff Otto

[Anonymous]

That is so cool! The future is now. There's the ultimate answer. I'm going to have to check that out when my layout is done. Thanx earl for that one.

[earlfrye]

Here is a DCC Ho and N-scale uncoupling car.
http://www.globaltrainsupply.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ONLYHO2&Category_Code=DCCP

[Anonymous]

I have used half under the track magnets with the intensifier plate for 20+ years with great results. Also, I only use Kadee couplers. All other couplers get replaced before the car goes on the layout.

The trick is how to install a Kadee #5 or equivalent. The spring needs to be have the two spring leaves bent inward slightly to add additional centering. I also apply #6 pencil lead to the spring, cover plate (inside) and both sides of the coupler shank.

For mounting in Athearn cars, the top of the spring posts and back plate need to be cut down slight so the spring is not bent by the Athearn metal cover. In this case, apply pencil lead to the inside of the Athearn cover.

I know hand uncoupling is popular, but too many of the end details of a car are vunerable to the various uncoupling tools that people use.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by jecorbett

I'm guessing you are really asking about uncoupling since coupling usually is not an issue. Magnetic uncouplers work well but unfortunately, sometimes they work too well. They uncouple a car when you don't want it too, like when a long train is passing over the uncoupler and hesitates ever so slightly, creating just enough slack to uncouple the car. Theoretically this shouldn't happen but unless your couplers are set exactly right, they will either uncouple when you don't want or won't uncouple when you do. Kadee's under-the-track uncoupler uses an intensifier plate, a sheet of metal under the magnet. If you leave it on, the uncoupler is too strong resulting in unwanted uncoupling. If you leave it off, the uncoupler is too weak and won't get the job done. Kadee announced several months ago that they were coming out with an under the track uncoupler that will operate electroncially. I haven't seen it yet. I have decided not to use the old style uncouplers on mainline tracks. I use the uncouplers in yards and industrial spurs only. For mainline uncoupling, I got a Kadee uncoupling wand. It is just a plastic stick with a pointed end. You slip it between the couplers and give it a little twist and the cars uncouple. It took me a while to get the hang of it and uncouple without derailing the cars, but now I've got it down so it is pretty reliable. I've heard of people using bamboo skewers the same way. Rix also makes a hand held. It looks like a tuning fork with magnets on either side. You put it between the cars with the magnets surrounding the couplers and it works just like the uncoupling ramps.

[Anonymous]

I've use a round toothpick for over 30 years. Paint'em flat black, glue a half-inch length of 1/8 inch plastic tube upright at each end of your siding, and stick the toothpick in.
it looks like a pole, but easially pulls out and allows you to "twirl" between finger and
thump, with the end inserted in the couplers. works every time!

[Anonymous]

DCC Development Group has a kit to give a SW switcher decoder controlled couplers ----up and down movement. Here it is at Tony's ... http://www.tonystrains.com/products/ddc.htm

I use magnetic KD's on my little layout, as I like the hands off approach. Just like trackwork, etc ...... mount the magnets and the couplers perfectly, and you will be happy. I am.

Greg Ross

[Anonymous]

Another possibility: the new Sergent couplers. See:

http://user.icx.net/~sergent/EC87.htm

MUCH more proto-looking, and operating - with a working knuckle.

I have not seen or used them myself, but I do want to try them.

No doubt somebody will develop a DCC uncoupling mechanism for this too.

Best...
Chris Stirling