Modifying Altas N-Scale Code 55 for old flanges

[Anonymous]

Okay, here we go again with the well-known problem with Atlas code 55 track. Standard Microtrains wheel flanges hit the plastic ties, and so do some locomotive flanges.

I have built my layout entirely with Microengineering code 55 - no wheel problems, looks great, and I'm very happy. But as I am working on a classification yard now, I think I might like to put several crossings into the trackwork, and ME doesn't make any.

Rather than replace all my wheelsets (not a big deal), and modify all the flanges on my steam and diesel locos (BIG DEAL), I am wondering if anybody has had any luck actually filing, cutting, or somehow tweaking the Atlas code 55 track so that the deeper-flange equipment doesn't hit
anymore. When I experimented with Atlas code 55, even my older Rivarossi wheel flanges just BARELY hit on the ties, so it shouldn't take too much more clearance to make them work.

We're talking about 4 crossings in all the trackwork, so it would be well worth it to me to buy Atlas crossings and modify them (and use ME for everything else), rather than worry about wheelsets and engine drivers.

Anybody tried this?

[Anonymous]

Perhaps look at Peco C55? flanges have no trouble on it and i think they have a wide range of crossings.

[Anonymous]

I thought about it. But the PECO Code 55 is really just huge code 80 rail sunk into the ties. The ties are still big, and spaced too far apart. Basically, it's code 80 in sheep's clothing. I used PECO turnouts on my last layout, and they worked well, but I'm really trying to make the track look better than that. I wi***hey made an N-Scale version of their newer HO Code 83 trackage, which really looks like North American track, and has nicer tie spacing.

After fooling around with some Atlas code 55 last night, I realize that it will be a bust trying to
shave down the spike heads. And besides that, I'm not too happy with the big ugly plastic frogs they use in their crossings. I'm going to look at some Shinohara code 70 crossings. They are pretty expensive (about $14.00 each!) but they should look much better, and I think I can disguise the code 70 rail well enough in the ballast. I ordered one so I can experiment.

[pcarrell]

I wasn't aware that Atlas made a code 55 turnout with plastic frogs. I have many of them and they are all metal, althouth it's some other metal, not nickle. I know its metal though because I've powered the frogs.

As to your problem, I have heard that some people have used a jewlers saw to cut a shallow grove into the ties along side of the rail. They say that does it. I have yet to try it though.

[pcarrell]

A dremel toll with a cutoff disk might do the same thing for curved track or turnouts. Just don't cut too deep.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by magliaro

I thought about it. But the PECO Code 55 is really just huge code 80 rail sunk into the ties. The ties are still big, and spaced too far apart. Basically, it's code 80 in sheep's clothing. I used PECO turnouts on my last layout, and they worked well, but I'm really trying to make the track look better than that. I wi***hey made an N-Scale version of their newer HO Code 83 trackage, which really looks like North American track, and has nicer tie spacing.

After fooling around with some Atlas code 55 last night, I realize that it will be a bust trying to
shave down the spike heads. And besides that, I'm not too happy with the big ugly plastic frogs they use in their crossings. I'm going to look at some Shinohara code 70 crossings. They are pretty expensive (about $14.00 each!) but they should look much better, and I think I can disguise the code 70 rail well enough in the ballast. I ordered one so I can experiment.

My whole layout is Atlas 55, turnouts and flex. I think the frogs look pretty darn good, no plastic I can see, are you speaking of the tie plates?

I have heard of some using a small jewlers file and running it along the inside tie plates, it seems you can remove some of the plastic without effecting the track, and possibly get the needed clearance for the flanges. I converted all my cars to MT trucks and couplers with the low-profile wheel sets. Looking back, I should have invested in some low-profile metal wheel sets instead.

[Anonymous]

I read that a small screwdriver dragged along the ties could knock the plastic down enough. Haven't seen it, or done it.

[Anonymous]

Okay, I need to clarify. It's CROSSINGS I'm interested in, not turnouts. The Atlas N-Scale code 55 turnouts are pretty nice, and have all-metal frogs. The crossings, however, have a lot of plastic in the frogs.

As for my idea...
I ended up using a small jeweler's file to just file off all the bolt-head details on the inside of the rails. Believe it or not, this WORKS. They come off very easily, and the rails are apparently NOT held in place by them (I thought the rails might slip right out, but they don't).

Standard MIcrotrains flanges slip right through, as do Concor/Rivarossi and older Atlas N steam flanges. Arnold N-Scale, which have always had flangeous giganticus, still will not fit, but I only have 2 or so of those, and frankly, the flanges are so grossly oversized, that I'd be willing to carefully file those puppies down.

You also have to file the bottoms out of the flangeways in the frogs as well, as they are a mite too shallow for standard flanges. But again, this wasn't too hard --- a lot less agony than I thought it would be.

I wouldn't recommend this for a whole layout's worth of flextrack, but in my case, just doing it to a few crossings is fine.

If only Microengineering made crossings to match their track. :-(

[Wdlgln005]

What you have is too many pizza cutter wheels. I agree it will be a major pain to cut down flanges on all your rolling stock. Your Arnold units may have to go & be replaced by some new Atlas units.

NWSL may have some low profile wheels to try. You need a good LHS to get them. Another choice may be to use Peco or Shinohara track in the yards only & save the Code 55 for the mainline. Use a different color ballast & paint the rails a dark color to get rid of the shine.

[Anonymous]

The pizza cutter wheels are not the problem. As you'll not in my original post, I would consider it a no-brainer if all I had to do was buy bulk packs of low-profile wheelsets from Microtrains and replace the wheelsets on all my cars (all my cars ride on MT trucks already, so this really would be no big deal).
But I'm not about to turn/machine/replace drivers on 20 semi-scratchbuilt steam locos, and another 20 or so diesels. I've got a handful of Kato stuff that would run fine on it, but everything else would need a major modification.

And besides, while I wasn't going to bring this up, while I think the Atlas track looks pretty good, and it's very inexpensive compared to ME, I frankly think the ME track looks quite a bit better.

So.... a few modified Atlas crossings will do the trick. With minimal pain, you can file down the inside plastic detail, and almost everything will then run on it.