Unheated garage

[ham99]

I have a fiberglass garage door, and the foam panels just slip into place by removing the center brace and then replacing it over the panels. However, back in the days when I had my layout in the garage, I raised the door and installed a temporary wall in the doorway. A half dozen 2x4 studs, two sheets of exterior siding, insulation,, and two sheets of cheap panelling for the inside was all it took. When I moved to layout to the new basement [under a new 24'x24' addition], I just removed the temporary wall -- hald in place by about a dozen double-headed nails -- and lowered the garage door. Everything was back to normal.

[claycts]

I put a FALSE wall inside our garage behind the garage door. In engilsh I built a wall and let the garage door stay. If I went back to a garage to sell the house down came the wall. But it did solve my heat a cool problems. Heck on one side I put the A/C in the false wall. Open the garage door from outside and turn on the A/C, in winter Close the garage door, no air leak. I used 2x4, OSB and R13 insulation. I put the A/C UNDER the height of the table and built a deflector out of tin to route the A/C into the room.

[Anonymous]

Insulation and ventilation are key to keeping the temperature and humidty level swings to a minimum. Keep in mind you want comfort while occupying the space but when your not you want to control the humidty to keep things from corroding. Lowes and Home Depot sell natural gas and propane heaters at a reasonable price especially at the end of the heating season and window units are pretty cheap also, so don't skimp on comfort control. I installed a propane heating system along with central air, I use a programmable thermostat to get some energy management and never had any problems. Can't keep progress moving forward if your freezing or sweating to death, good luck!!!

Dave

[Anonymous]

Wow! I never thought I'd get so many suggestions, and they're all really good. Thanks again to everyone. Never thought about the door insulation. I guess that metal door gives off and lets in a lot of heat or cold, huh? I don't plan to spend a fortune on this room, and these things will really help. Expalacedog you are right. I would not plan on using the layout probably betwen mid November and mid March unless major heating and cooling work was done. That's a big down side, but the big up side is the space. I have a very small house. Anyway, thanks again y'all.

[UNIONPACIFIC4018]

Lowes sells a kit for insulating doors for both 8' doors and 16' doors
you just cut them to fit and slip into the freamwork. I didi ti in a couple of hours.

[FCnota]

Buy some extra foam and glue it to the insides of your garage doors. It will make a huge difference, and since you are doing the walls anyway, not that much work. It works grest in Chicago..

[bogp40]

If you don't mind the conditions and it is the only available space, why not. I and not generally in favor of the full foam and roadbed/ track caulked in place method of construction, but this would probably be the most stable for the temperature/ humidity swings that the layout will experience. There has been many topics on this forum regarding various options and methods to build the benchwork, plywood and glue down foam, risers, set roadbed and track. Give it some thought, come up with a trackplan and let us on the forum help out if needed.
Your other option for construction is to use spline. Masonite splines would be the most stable.
Bob K.

[exPalaceDog]

QUOTE: Originally posted by geoeisele

What are your thoughts on this? Is it possible to build a reliable layout in an unheated garage in the midwestern USA, where temperatures range from the upper 90's fahrenheit in summer to below zero in winter? I've seen a modular club layout stored in such a garage in this climate. Whaddaya think?

For get it!

The question is NOT whether the layout materials can survive the environment. The question is whether or not you will be willing to work on the layout in that environment. The Old Dog would suggest taking steps to improve the environment before starting the layout. The layout is unlikily to get done unless you have an environment where you can enjoy working on it and operating it.

Have fun

[claycts]

Only a couple of bucks but foam insulation flued to th panels of the garage door helps a bunch. My show car garage has that and to keep th temp at 72 365 days a year for %35.00 per month avg in S.C.

[Anonymous]

Thanks also to you, Leon. Trains are priority now over air conditioning, but the insulation sounds great. It's pretty cheap stuff, as I recall, and with two big doors you can't insulate, basically that leaves only about 50 feet of wall for me to cover. Cheap paneling over the studs should make it pretty nice looking. Thanks for the great idea. This forum is fantasically helpful on any subject.

[Leon Silverman]

Standard garage construction is internally exposed 2x4's or 2x6's with no insulation. If this is your case, adding insulation will significantly reduce the temperature swings. I have an insulated garage and I run the AC down to 68 degrees when I am working in there (I sweat easily). I went in there to retrieve a broom after the the room had been sealed for about ten days and it still felt cool.

[Anonymous]

Thanks. I really appreciate knowing a layout can be built in a room with ice and snow on the floor, and I am really grateful to know you should not solder any joints. I was dreading all that joint work with the hot solder, anyway. With 36 inch minimum curves in HO, no joint solder may not be much of a problem. I guess I could even go to 48 inch minimum in a 22 by 22 foot space. I also like the idea of putting AC in the window, but the garage has automobile doors on each end, so summer ventilation is pretty good. Thanks again.[:)]

[Anonymous]

I have one, I use a small portable oil filled electric heater in the winter, and installed a window and an AC unit this spring. I only use the heater or AC when I am in the garage so the temperatures do fluctuate quite a bit. My wife still insists on using her half of the garage especially in the winter so the ice and snow does get on the floor but I have had no problems with oxidation or much in the way of any thermal expansion or contraction…yet.

[UNIONPACIFIC4018]

Sure but yo have to have tons of gaps and you cannot solder any joints.

[Anonymous]

What are your thoughts on this? Is it possible to build a reliable layout in an unheated garage in the midwestern USA, where temperatures range from the upper 90's fahrenheit in summer to below zero in winter? I've seen a modular club layout stored in such a garage in this climate. Whaddaya think?