To sum it up in a word Kevin... Excellent... I've been following your thread and it's been all good. You are now getting to a point I can really use.
I have the two back corners on my layout that will be high mountainous areas with tunnels. I have been contemplating what method and materials to use. I have heard hydrocal is lighter and stronger than plaster. Weight is a concern of mine as I am building a portable layout that will be brought to train shows someday in the future. I will be older and possibly less agile then
Your step by step examples and instruction has been very easy to follow and leaves no confusion. I have decided on your method and can't wait to get to that point. Your detail sander, shaper tool not gumming up on the hydrocal sure sold me. I will make sure I construct plenty of tunnel access when I do this.
Thanks for the great thread!
TF
SeeYou190I can get the forms I want very easily with the cardboard strips. I have become very good an weaving these together and getting nice flowing landscapes.
I like using cardboard too for getting forms I want, and then covering with plaster cloth as well.
Your RR name always reminded me of a merger between Briggs & Stratton lawn more engine and Gillette razor companies.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
Track fiddlerTo sum it up in a word Kevin... Excellent... I've been following your thread and it's been all good. You are now getting to a point I can really use.
.
Thank you for the kind words.
I am getting excited about scenery coming into place. I love working on scenery.
riogrande5761Your RR name always reminded me of a merger between Briggs & Stratton lawn more engine and Gillette razor companies.
Believe it or not, that is exactly where the railroad's name came from.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
SeeYou190riogrande5761 Your RR name always reminded me of a merger between Briggs & Stratton lawn more engine and Gillette razor companies. . Believe it or not, that is exactly where the railroad's name came from. -Kevin
Of course the danger is for readers is they will forever be thinking of lawn mowers and razors! As the old ELO song goes, "I can't get it out of my head"...
I just gots to knows.
Those would seem to be a couple of sure bet companies combined into one!
Did you purchase stock in the company at the time of the merger Kevin?.... and then name your railroad?
Meant as a funny, I don't expect you to answer, it is somewhat blunt humor.... I bet you did though.... it makes too much cents
riogrande5761Of course the danger is for readers is they will forever be thinking of lawn mowers and razors!
Track fiddlerMeant as a funny, I don't expect you to answer, it is somewhat blunt humor....
The story of the railroad name goes like this:
I wanted a name that did not reflect a certain area or region. OHIO SOUTHERN, VIRGINIAN & OHIO, and ATLANTIC CENTRAL are all ficticious roadnames that lock you into a certain part of the country. I was young, and I really had silly dreams for the railroad. I will not discuss the original (and completely ridiculous) plans right now.
I was 15 or 16 years old when I came up the name. My process was this... I went through the house and wrote down anything that sounded like it could be a city. This is where the lawnmower and razor came in. Then I went through the Rand-McNally Atlas (this was the early 1980s, way before Google), and I crossed off any city that had a population of more than a few thousand.
Of the city names that were left, I thought "Stratton" and "Gillette" sounded best together. The STRATTON AND GILLETTE was born.
Later, I found out there is a good sized city in Wyoming named Gillette. I guess as I neared the end of the atlas I became a little lazy. Oops.
Most people think it sounds like an English railroad. Some people ask me if it is in Wyoming.
If I had paid better attention to the atlas, I might have the STRATTON AND PILLSBURY or something. Good thing, I really like the railroad's name, even 35 years later.
I have changed scales, location, and era, but my railroad has aways been the STRATTON AND GILLETTE.
That's a cool story Kevin. I like the name, sounds good. I'm anticipating the next steps in your project
PS You could also break down the possible meaning of your Railroad name.
1) Briggs & (Stratton).... Smooth running Railroad.
2) Gillette.... Very sharp-looking Railroad.
PERIODIC UPDATE #7:
It has been a while since I have had time to even think about this project. I have a three day weekend, so time to get down to it.
This morning I removed all the tape from the tracks and exposed them for the first time in months.
I added a thin layer of joint compound over the plater to smooth everything out.
Then I smoothed the joint compound with a sponge. This is the last of the scenery base preparation.
After the joint compound dries, I will move forward for the next couple of days. Stay tuned!
Looks like you found some time to get back to your craft and have some fun again Kevin. I would like to say the same.
Your Mach up projects with step-by-step illustrations are enjoyed. That kind of stuff takes extra time out of what you're working on, I know. I always look forward to seeing some more.
Appreciated. TF
Track fiddlerLooks like you found some time to get back to your craft and have some fun again
Yes, I am very grateful for this three day weekend. I have not spent three days at home with nothing to do yet in 2019.
PERIODIC UPDATE #7a:
There is nothing better that Sculptamold made my the American Art Clay Company (AMACO) for blending rock castings together, or for sculpting rocks.
It took less than an hour to make all the fillers for the rock casting sections.
When you mix Sculptamold you need to be very careful when adding water. It only takes a thimble full or less to go from "not enough water" to "too much water".
PERIODIC UPDATE #7b:
Time to slap a lot of paint onto this project... FINALLY.
After the paint is on it will start to look like a real layout. FIrst step... put manilla paper and tape all over the track again. Must protect the painted track and ties.
Now a couple of coats of KILZ-2 are applied all over everything as a base coat.
Once the primer dries, color will be applied.
PERIODIC UPDATE #7c:
Paint is finally going down, and some color has arrived!
I was not happy with the blue I chose for the sky. I chose the lightest on this color card, which is similar to the blue on Walthers Instant Horizons backdrops, but I thought it was too light.
I went back to Home Depot and had some mixed that was the darkest blue on the same color card. I like it much better.
PERIODIC UPDATE #7d:
Well, all the base colors are in place. I am quite excited about all the probress made this weekend.
I painted the fascia the same color as the base for the grass. This makes it easier to conceal the edge for in-the-front photographs.
Hopefully I will have some time to put down the first layer of ground covering soon.
Kevin Honestly, I was more prone to the lighter blue for the sky. It is all a matter of preference though.
I do remember seeing somewhere, how skies are blended to a lighter, more faded blue closer to the Earth for a more realistic effect. Respectfully just wanted to comment on that. I wonder what you think.
I am kind of spoiled on skies down here in South Florida. Our blue sky days are VERY blue, and that throws off my perspective a bit I guess.
I think the middle color would be a good choice for the final layout.
Hey Kevin
I've only been to Florida once when I took my kids to Disney. I took them to both, Disney Land and Disney World, I can't remember which was which between Florida and California. I do remember I really enjoyed Epcot Center, I do remember that was in Orlando. Man..... that was a lot of years ago.
Now thinking about what you said, I can imagine the sky is really blue in Florida. Florida is pretty much a peninsula with the wind currents from the oceans blowing everything away, unlike the Inland States where the haze gathers and makes the sky appear a more milky blue.
I agree the middle color is a good choice for the final layout. Not many people do experimentation before they set things to Stone. I sometimes do a little experimentation before I decide on something as well.
Looking good Kevin..... Anticipating seeing your next steps
Track Fiddler
I'd stick with what you have and do a fade with your airbrush to a light gray at the bottom. Start your fade about 1/3rd of the way down from the top.
I have the right to remain silent. By posting here I have given up that right and accept that anything I say can and will be used as evidence to critique me.
Track fiddler Disney Land and Disney World, I can't remember which was which between Florida and California.
The good one is in Florida!
carl425I'd stick with what you have and do a fade with your airbrush to a light gray at the bottom.
Fading with an airbrush is a skill I do not have in my abilities. I have tried several times, and always failed.
PERIODIC UPDATE #8:
I spent this weekend working on the first level of the scenic ground cover. I am so excited to finally have some scenery in place.
The first thing I needed to add was a drink holder. Once scenery is in place cold drinks need to be kept off of the layout surface. I found this product called "The Mugger" at a Flea Market years ago, and I bought 10 of them thinking they would be useful someday for a layout.
I mounted one to the front fascia in the center, and sure enough, this product will make a great cup holder for the edge of the layout. It folds up out of the way when not in use, and it is adjustable to hold larger cups or mugs.
I mounted the power pack and control panels back into the fascia. I like the green color of the fascia and how it accents the troller pack.
I think that I will change the background color of the control panels to black when I build the final layout. I though dark baxcar red would be a good looking option, but maybe basic black like the power packs is a better decsision.
Or maybe I will leave the control panels this color. Maybe it will grow on me after a while.
I got all my supplies together for the application of ground flocking materials.
I keep all my different flocks in clear plastic one gallon bags for easy access and identification. I buy everything I see when it comes to ground cover. Variety of textures and colors work very well for me.
I use a pressurized hand sprayer to apply diluted adhesive over large areas of terrain. I am trying Mod Podge adhesive on this segment. I have not been happy at all with the new "Extra Strong" formula the Elmers Glue has switched over to. I am hoping Matte Formula Mod Podge will be a good alternative. It costs about 4 times as much as Elmers, so it bettert work well!
I dilute the glue 10:1 with water for spraying, and then I add 3ml of Kodak Photo-Flo 200 to get it to soak in quickly and flow well. I have a large container that is marked with the proper levels for this ratio.
I also have a squeeze bottle that I use for careful application of diluted glue.
I masked off all of the layout. I left about a 3/4" area around the tunnel portals, rock castings, and other details that will be flocked in after all the parts are painted.
Today is not about detail, just getting a bunch of ground cover in place over a large area.
I used a one inch wide brush to apply a liberal layer of Mod Podge to the ground surface. I try to work in areas about 1 to 2 square feet at a time and keep a wet edge on new areas that will be glued and flocked. I tend to work from back to front and right to left as I move along the project.
Then I sprinkle everything with an even layer of Woodland Scenics number T-49 fine green blend. I have never found anything that makes a better scenic base than this product.
Two bags were required to cover this entire project section.
I use an empty squeeze bottle to blow the flock away from areas where it does not belong. I do not like to blow flock around with my lips. Inhaling flock must be very bad for your lungs. I will not take that chance.
WHERE SAFETY GOGGLES WHEN DOING THIS. Very few things are as irritating as ground foam in your eye.
Then the most fun part. All kinds of different flock colors and textures are applied to make the ground look a lot more natural. Only the finest maintaned lawns are an even color of green in the real world.
There you have it... ground cover is applied, and it sure makes a big difference. This was a fun and rewarding weekend.
Looks really good Kevin.
I always like to mask things off with blue painter's tape and painters paper where I don't want over spill or any intrusion the same. Good job on the blends of ground foam. A lot of good information on application you provided as well.
I like how you recessed the power pack (transformer) and control panel in the fascia. Black or Dark box car red..... That's a tough one, I love flat black, there isn't much better but boxcar red is more of an Earth Tone and subtly fades to a blend with the scenery. Tough call. That needs to be your decision brother, I know what I'd pick.
Now the Mugger drink holder and you say you have 10 of them. I did see you had a Fresca planted in one.
This old Scottish-Irish boy might get into trouble with a set of those dispersed around his layout. I may leave those out on mine
I like it Kevin, keep the updates coming.
Thanks Track Fiddler
Track fiddler Good job on the blends of ground foam.
Thank you. It will look even better after this weekend when I really go to town on the painting and rocks.
Track fiddlerI like how you recessed the power pack (transformer) and control panel in the fascia.
I have wanted my power packs recessed like that for quite some time. I never had the ability to experiment with and learn how to use a router before. this was absolutely a skill worth developing.
Track fiddlerNow the Mugger drink holder and you say you have 10 of them. I did see you had a Fresca planted in one.
I have enjoyed Fresca for while I am working for years. It does a good job refreshing me in the hot garage. Beer is for operating, Fresca for building.
SeeYou190 PERIODIC UPDATE #8: The first thing I needed to add was a drink holder. Once scenery is in place cold drinks need to be kept off of the layout surface. I found this product called "The Mugger" at a Flea Market years ago, and I bought 10 of them thinking they would be useful someday for a layout. . . I mounted one to the front fascia in the center, and sure enough, this product will make a great cup holder for the edge of the layout. It folds up out of the way when not in use, and it is adjustable to hold larger cups or mugs. . .
While the overall project is impressive, this may be the most impressive display of layout planning I've seen in a while.
Not entirely kidding.
- Douglas
I have one on all 3 of my garden tractors.
Mike.
My You Tube
mbinsewi I have one on all 3 of my garden tractors. Mike.
Three garden tractors? What kind?
I have yet to figure out a good cup holder location for my garden tractor, but, admittedly, I have not worked real hard on the problem.
Sheldon
DoughlessWhile the overall project is impressive, this may be the most impressive display of layout planning I've seen in a while. Not entirely kidding.
Thank you for the kind comments Douglas. The need for cup holders is something I learned the hard way.
I learned so many things the hard way when it comes to model railroad layout building.
PERIODIC UPDATE #9:
I worked quite a bit on the first of the scenery details this week. In another thread, some people were talking about the Busch Grass Mats, and I have used them several times, and I decided to install one today on the upper rail line.
I took the masking tape off of the tunnel portals and bridge abutments for the last time!
I began by rough cutting the shape of the grassy area from a sheet of Busch Grass Mat. I went with a dark green long grass mat.
Then I trimmed the grassy area into a randomish edge with lots of curves. This always looks more natural than a continuous even arc for an edge.
Then it was time to glue the grass mat into place on the layout surface. I squeezed a line of Modge Podge Matte along the edge of the bottom and trasferred this outline to the layout surface. Then I filled in the area with a layer of Mod Podge Matte.
Weights were added to hold the grass mat in place while ther Mod Posge Matte set up and dried. I found 2 ouce bottles of craft paint worked just fine.
Ballast an the adjacent track came next.
I am experimenting with a few different colors of ballast, so I took a picture with the package label so I knew what color ballast was used on which track section.
Hiding the edge of the grassmat is critical for a natural appearance. I use caulk to glue ground cover in place along steep edges of the terrain.
Some Scenic Express Alpine Meadow Blend was used to conceal part of the front edge, and Woodland Scenics Extra Coarse Conifer Green Turf was used on the other side.
Before applying diluted Mod Podge Matte from a squeeze bottle I sprayed the entire area with a solution of water and Photo-Flo 200 from a misting spray bottle.
The finished results look pretty good to me.
More will come soon. Probably not next week, but I sould be able to get some more forward progress sometime in August.
PERIODIC UPDATE #10
I worked some more on the water scene this weekend. I mixed the water color using Apple Barrel craft paints.
I blended the color together using Gel Medium and Float from Delta Ceramcoat.
With the water surface made from the light diffuse in place, the overall effect is pretty good.
I will try to color the water again. The colors I chose were too light, and it looks cold and icy to my eye.
Progress will continue.
SeeYou190I will try to color the water again. The colors I chose were too light, and it looks cold and icy to my eye.
Hi Kevin,
I have to agree with your analysis of the colours. To be honest, the river looks like a public swimming pool.
I would get rid of the blues altogether. Natural rivers are rarely blue. If the river is deep, I would start with a light to medium beige on the edges of the river and then blend that in with with progressively darker brownish greens as you get to the center of the river. If the river is shallow, I would start with the same medium beige but use lighter brownish greens as the channel gets deeper.
Just my worth! I respect your modelling skills.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
hon30critterNatural rivers are rarely blue. If the river is deep, I would start with a light to medium beige on the edges of the river and then blend that in with with progressively darker brownish greens as you get to the center of the river.
Thanks Dave.
After looking at pictures of Dr.Waynes rivers on his layout, I believe this is exactly what I am going to try.
I know my river is very narrow, but this is an experiment, and I want to try to make it look deep.
I am not going to be able to work on this for the next few weeks, but stay tuned. Progress will happen.
I appreciate all comments.